Battery impact wrench for a guy who hates power tools?

[Samuel D]

I really do hate using power tools when I could do the job with my own glad effort and the sweat of my brow.

But I’m working more on cars nowadays and starting to see the point of impact there.

Latest example was the rear brake calliper bolts on the family car. They were tight, hard to get at, and had shallow 16 mm heads. I thought I was going to break something getting them off – at least my knuckles.

(Then I needed new bolts because BMW uses torque angle here for some reason, and I had no way to measure angle, working blind with about a two-tooth swing of the ratchet … but that’s a different complaint.)

I don’t have air, so it’ll have to be battery even though the disposable batteries are another reason I dislike power tools.

Don’t need a battery platform with a hundred other tools since I won’t be buying 99% of them.

I *think* I’d like a compact 3/8″-drive to start with, with the option to add a strong 1/2″-drive gun later with the same battery.

Or maybe I should just get the most compact 1/2″-drive I can find and leave it at that?

Suggestions? Also for a set of metric sockets.

I live in Europe if it matters.

 

[richfinn]

I really like my Milwaukee M18 Mid Torque 1/2" drive, it's nice and compact, great for wheel bolts/suspension/brakes. It also has a nice Pre-torque setting for running wheel fasteners in prior to using a torque wrench so you can't over tighten them, and you can get a protective boot

The only other M18 tool I run is the tyre inflator (which I mention as you have no compressor either).

 

[pbon]

On some cars, you may not be able to fit a battery impact wrench on the brake caliper bolts. Usually you can with extensions, but not always. A lower profile wrench fits in tighter areas, but has less power for high torque jobs. A bolt may specify 125 lbs torque but corrosion could quadruple the breakaway torque. I have the M12 3/8 stubby that does 550 lbs, the M18 1/2 mid torque that does 650 lbs, and the M18 1/2 high torque that does over 1200 lbs. Sometimes I have to use the big one because the bolt is stuck, but you could use a breaker bar instead.

Milwaukee is expensive but sometimes a kit will go on sale. You could also look at HF and Ryobi for cheaper options. I would not bother buying anything with less than about 500 lbs breakaway torque.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I really like my Milwaukee M18 Mid Torque 1/2" drive, ...

I bought an M12 3/8" drive impact and a 1/4" hex adapter. I use both of these a lot.

After a couple of years, I bought an M18 Mid Torque 1/2" drive, primarily for wheel lug buts. You can always crack the lug nuts loose with a long breaker bar and then spin them off with the 3/8" impact.

 

[MOS3522]

. . .

Don’t need a battery platform with a hundred other tools since I won’t be buying 99% of them.

. . .

I suspect you may change your mind once you start using them. You'll end up with several drivers for different jobs.

 

[finn]

I have both Milwaukee and Dewalt.

I usually reach for the Dewalt Atomic 3/8 drive over the M18.

The exception is that my largest 1/2” drive is an M18 high torque. I only occasionally need that bruiser. I find it awkward and cumbersome, but occasionally you need the power.

I don’t use the mid torque M18 much. The Dewalt Atomic, either 3/8 or 1/2 covers a lot of the Milwaukee mid torque uses, and they’re smaller and lighter.

Just my opinion.

 

[richfinn]

I bought an M12 3/8" drive impact and a 1/4" hex adapter. I use both of these a lot.

After a couple of years, I bought an M18 Mid Torque 1/2" drive, primarily for wheel lug buts. You can always crack the lug nuts loose with a long breaker bar and then spin them off with the 3/8" impact.

I do have some M12 stuff.

But I prefer M18 in 1/2" drive

 

[richfinn]

I have both Milwaukee and Dewalt.

I usually reach for the Dewalt Atomic 3/8 drive over the M18.

The exception is that my largest 1/2” drive is an M18 high torque. I only occasionally need that bruiser. I find it awkward and cumbersome, but occasionally you need the power.

I don’t use the mid torque M18 much. The Dewalt Atomic, either 3/8 or 1/2 covers a lot of the Milwaukee mid torque uses, and they’re smaller and lighter.

Just my opinion.

Might be harder to find in Europe. Don't think I've seen any of the Atomic stuff yet in the UK??

 

[MJD1]

In Europe you probably don't have the rust like we do here. If the DeWalt 3/8" atomic is available that will do 90percent of automotive things including lug nuts.

 

[JeepinMike]

I don’t have air, so it’ll have to be battery even though the disposable batteries are another reason I dislike power tools.

I've had Milwaukee battery-powered tools in both the M12 and M18 platforms for close to 10 years now. I'm mostly a hobbyist. I've only retired a single M12 battery that started overheating and making me nervous; I have approximately 8 M18 batteries, some going back 10 years and another 6-8 M12 batteries. I wouldn't consider the modern Li-Ion batteries disposable like some of the older battery chemistry types.

 

[richfinn]

In Europe you probably don't have the rust like we do here. If the DeWalt 3/8" atomic is available that will do 90percent of automotive things including lug nuts.

You're kidding aren't you?, the British invented rust and the Italians perfected it

 

[finn]

Might be harder to find in Europe. Don't think I've seen any of the Atomic stuff yet in the UK??

In that case go with Bosch.

I didn’t notice his European connection.

Bosch is everywhere in Europe.

 

[KnurledNut]

People are largely gonna recommend what they use.
So my vote goes to Makita.

 

[ericm]

I don’t have air, so it’ll have to be battery even though the disposable batteries are another reason I dislike power tools.

We have a 30 year old Makita drill whose batteries still work. All our DeWalt batteries still work. My wife's killed two Black and Decker string trimmers but the batteries all still work. I can't think of any tool batteries we have that have failed. I'm sure it happens but no where near often enough to be called disposable.

 

[sk farmer]

i use 3/8 impact for sae up to 3/4 and metric to 19. i find 3/8 more handy at those sizes. lighter, more compact and better access. once in a great while i will need to dip into the larger sizes listed with my 1/2 impact but not often.

so in essence 3/4-19mm and below 3/8 and 1/2 for sizes above that.

 

[Gebirgekind]

The Makita compact impact wrenches are superb - the 3/8" XWT16z and 1/2" XWT14z are the same body and motor, just with different anvils. Light, small, and strong, that 1/2" would probably do a majority of what you need, but my preferred combo is the 3/8" version for most under the hood stuff and then a 1/2" mid-torque XWT17z for bigger things. Europe uses different part numbers, PM me and I can help you find the equivalents if you need.

Every platform is fine enough, I think it's important to go hold a few in your hands and choose the tools that fit you the best. But yeah, availability is key too, Bosch makes great stuff and like others said may be easier to find.

 

[Samuel D]

I have the M12 3/8 stubby that does 550 lbs

That’s over 740 Nm.

So, first of all, that seems extremely high to me, surely high enough for anything I’d need to do on a car? But owners often have bigger 1/2″-drive units too for some reason.

And second, how does it not shear off the 3/8″ anvil at that torque? Is it because it accelerates the socket up to speed over an appreciable amount of time and then the socket slams into engagement with the fastener all of a sudden, multiplying the force without ever loading the anvil to 740 Nm?

 

[Samuel D]

The only other M18 tool I run is the tyre inflator (which I mention as you have no compressor either).

I have an antique Kismet Baby foot pump, mainly brass with a leather washer, that pumps so smoothly, so effortlessly, and with so little play in the pivots compared to any modern foot pump that I don’t see the need for a tyre inflator like that.

Don’t quote me on this, but I think the Kismet Baby was included with certain Rolls-Royce and Bentley cars back in the day. It’s absurdly good.

(Understand a compressor or tyre inflator can have other uses than pumping up tyres of course.)

 

[Samuel D]

The Makita compact impact wrenches are superb - the 3/8" XWT16z and 1/2" XWT14z are the same body and motor, just with different anvils. [≥] Europe uses different part numbers

Yeah, that’s making this very hard to research for a newcomer. All the companies seem to have different part numbers or even branding for the different markets, probably because the products really are different (battery chargers, plugs).

 

[AEAdam]

And second, how does it not shear off the 3/8″ anvil at that torque? Is it because it accelerates the socket up to speed over an appreciable amount of time and then the socket slams into engagement with the fastener all of a sudden, multiplying the force without ever loading the anvil to 740 Nm?

Because it’s an impulse and not a sustained torque. You are right, a sustained torque of that magnitude would shear the anvil and probably the bolt head.

In truth, impact guns are a little funny in how specifically they produce torque. I mean, you aren’t reacting 550ftlbs in your wrist, right?

My advice: you can start with a mid torque gun and I think you should. And while it may make no sense on paper, you may find you want or need a heavy duty gun later. So I’d shop for both and buy the one to start. With this in mind, I think you should choose 18v.

I started with a Bosch 1/2” gun that topped out around 500ftlbs of reversing torque. I’ve only had one or 2 jobs where that wasn’t good enough. And it’s a pleasure to use compared to some of the other brutes. 99% of the time, for me, that gun is good enough.

One more thing to think about: the stiffness of the sockets etc you put on it matters. Some tools could limit torque just like a torque stick does. So if you‘d like swivel sockets, thin walled sockets, wobble extensions etc, maybe you’d be better off with the heavier duty gun.

Since you asked about sockets, I’d get a good set of swivel sockets and a small set of cheap deep sockets just for lugs etc. I have tons of extensions for my chrome sockets but only one for impact, a heavy duty old craftsman 6”. Keep it simple.

 

[Samuel D]

Milwaukee M12 FCIWF12G3-502X for €371.77:

Milwaukee M12 FCIWF12G3-502X 12V Li-ion accu slagmoersleutel set (2x 5.0Ah accu) in HD Box - 745Nm - 1/2" - koolborstelloos | Gereedschapcentrum.nl

Milwaukee M12 FCIWF12G3-502X Slagmoersleutel Set – Compact, Krachtig en Veelzijdig De Milwaukee M12 FCIWF12G3-502X is een kracht | Gereedschapcentrum.nl

www.gereedschapcentrum.nl

Milwaukee M18 FMTIW2F12-502X for €495.00:

Milwaukee M18 FMTIW2F12-502X 18V Li-ion accu Slagmoersleutel set (2x 5.0Ah accu) in HD Box - 745Nm - 1/2'' | Gereedschapcentrum.nl

Milwaukee M18 FMTIW2F12-502X 18V Li-ion Slagmoersleutel Set - Kracht en Slim Ontwerp in Één Op zoek naar de ultieme krachtpatser v | Gereedschapcentrum.nl

www.gereedschapcentrum.nl

(No idea yet if that shop is legit, so don’t go buying from those links.)

These are both 1/2″-drive guns rated by Milwaukee at an astounding 745 Nm (550 ft-lb). They both included a nice box, charger, and two batteries – although since the M18 platform has 50% higher voltage, I guess that means 50% more energy capacity for the same 5.0 Ah battery rating.

More importantly to me, the M12 is smaller and €123 cheaper.

Why would a guy like me who will seldom run the battery flat (I imagine, without experience) go for the M18 here?

Another question: friction ring versus detent?

Do the square-drive anvils quickly wear out?

Sorry for all the questions but this is a whole world I don’t have experience with, not being in the trades or with friends who can steer me.

 

[mervyn]

Used this yesterday. It laughs at lug nuts.
Had a Snap Off impact years ago that wasn't nearly as powerful as this thing.

 

[pbon]

You can always use a breaker bar when the impact is insufficient. I reach for the little impact first, but like I wrote, sometimes it is insufficient even though it is rated for 3 times the torque that the bolt or nut was fastened with. If you have corrosion, this can easily happen. I experience it multiple times every year. I could just use a breaker bar to start loosening the bolt or nut if I did not have stronger impacts.

 

[Sumboodie]

I'm not sure the purpose of a "mid torque" M18.
I have 2 of the high torque and my "old" IR2135Ti at 150psi whoops their *** anyday. Faster, quieter, lighter, more powerful. Only downside is needing a hose vs cordless.
The M18 guns aren't terrible, but 1200 bust a nut torque is definitely not real world, as the IR is only 65% of that on paper.

 

[rust in the eye]

Agreed with the breaker bar suggestion above.
OP's mention of limited swing suggests perhaps not a full compliment of extensions (or a really coarse ratchet).
BMW uses locking compound on caliper bolts so they are all a bit tough to remove first time. The one's I'm familiar with aren't torque angle tightened or TTY hardware. The Bavarians sell new bolts with locking compound already applied. FWIW I've bee re-using the original fasteners for decades without any special tightening procedure other than "tight" and am still here to tell the story.
FWIW No way any 3/8" impact I know of will break the fasteners in question loose.
Buy a long breaker bar, some extensions if needed in order to have decent swing room and use "my own glad effort and the sweat of my brow".

 

[imagineer]

I have a Milwaukee 3/8" M18 Fuel brushless impact (Item # 2031893) and am very impressed with it.
The battery seems to last forever compared to my 1/4" drive Porter-Cable 20v.

 

[BWWgarage]

Ryobi gets surprisingly good reviews and for occasional use could worth a look to save a few $ vs Milwaukee or DeWALT, which seem the 2 most popular ?

https://youtube.com/@torquetestchannel?si=cDGvXZVcMaL5F7mA

 

[Samuel D]

OP's mention of limited swing suggests perhaps not a full compliment of extensions (or a really coarse ratchet).

You’re right. I had the luxury of working in a garage with a lift, but it’s a half-hour drive away and I supplied my own tools. I only had two extensions with me and neither were the right length.

Moreover, the 1/2″-drive breaker bar I had was a Toptul that, I discovered, does not bend ‘backward’ much beyond 90°. I like to do that when possible to reduce the cam-out force of the tool on the fastener. Since I couldn’t, it felt like the tool was going to slip. Don’t know why the bolt heads have to be so shallow when the torque is so high here.

BMW uses locking compound on caliper bolts so they are all a bit tough to remove first time.

I noticed.

The one's I'm familiar with aren't torque angle tightened or TTY hardware.

This was an F20 1 Series from 2019 (final production). The rear calliper mounting bracket bolts are 30 Nm + 90° according to my Haynes Autofix digital service manual. I thought that meant TTY but could be wrong.

I’m not a big car guy, but that’s the first time I’ve seen torque angles on a brake job.

The fronts are a straightforward 110 Nm (but Haynes says to replace those bolts too).

FWIW I've bee re-using the original fasteners for decades without any special tightening procedure other than "tight" and am still here to tell the story.

Glad to hear it.

FWIW No way any 3/8" impact I know of will break the fasteners in question loose.
Buy a long breaker bar, some extensions if needed in order to have decent swing room and use "my own glad effort and the sweat of my brow".

I see.

The more I work on this BMW, the more respect I have for pro mechanics who work under time pressure.

 

[rust in the eye]

No reason for you to take the word of an internet stranger with unproven credentials over the procedures in a service manual (Haynes are so-so at best, may want to consult the OE manual) but that is my anecdotal experience. It's caliper bolts, were not fastening engines to the space shuttle.
I'd be a bit surprised to see the torque angle procedure being done in a dealership setting but stand to be corrected.

 

[Samuel D]

This car has lots of funny business. I suppose in some ways it is literally more advanced than the 1980s space shuttle. (Did they have torque angle in 1980?)

Even the oil filter housing calls for angles! Kinda:

1. torque to 25 Nm
2. loosen 180º
3. re-torque to 25 Nm again.

I might be the only person on the planet who follows that procedure, but – guess what? – there are reports all over the internet of these things cracking or leaking. Meanwhile my car has never had a single thing go wrong with it in 120,000 km.

 

[dnschmidt]

People are largely gonna recommend what they use.
So my vote goes to Makita.

Makita makes good stuff but they've pissed me off with the insane and never on sale price they charge for their 25 year old battery technology and their impacts are not the strongest either. Dewalt Mid-Torque or Milwaukee's latest M12 stubby, which is flat out crazy, seems to be the way to go.

 

[rust in the eye]

This car has lots of funny business. I suppose in some ways it is literally more advanced than the 1980s space shuttle. (Did they have torque angle in 1980?)

Even the oil filter housing calls for angles! Kinda:

1. torque to 25 Nm
2. loosen 180º
3. re-torque to 25 Nm again.

I might be the only person on the planet who follows that procedure, but – guess what? – there are reports all over the internet of these things cracking or leaking. Meanwhile my car has never had a single thing go wrong with it in 120,000 km.

Again, not familiar with your model. All my Bavarians are old enough to vote. If like the OF housings I'm familiar with I suspect the instruction to back off and retighten is to relieve the O-ring if it has "wound up" at all while tightening. You can feel this, and sometimes even hear it. I've been doing it this way also albeit not with any specific torque figure just my own, so far good, judgement. The O-ring is the seal, not the threads which are there simply to keep it in place. A bit more than hand tight is all mine get.

 

[Samuel D]

Dewalt Mid-Torque or Milwaukee's latest M12 stubby

Would you link to these products so I can see definitively which ones you’re talking about?

I’ve already Googled these terms and others people have mentioned here and only got more confused.

 

[lund]

We have a 30 year old Makita drill whose batteries still work. All our DeWalt batteries still work. My wife's killed two Black and Decker string trimmers but the batteries all still work. I can't think of any tool batteries we have that have failed. I'm sure it happens but no where near often enough to be called disposable.

I like cordless battery impact. BUT I have a dewalt Atomic compact 3/8. I have replaced two bad battery packs in (just relatively heavy homeowner use) and the break off torque relative to new on the driver already seems degraded even with newer battery packs etc. I would not say these things have universally good shelf life. Li-Ion batteries do also degrade a bit year by year too. I do not think a lot of us will be using the same tools with original batteries in 20+ years.

 

[DrinkMan]

I have had a nice little pneumatic impact wrench (Kobalt from Lowes) that served my needs but it wasn't portable enough for me. I then was given as a gift a DeWalt 1/4" impact driver 20V+ brushless (I know, not a true impact wrench) and it did great for 90% of my impact use. I had my sequence - Wrench, 1/4" impact driver, 1/2" drive Breaker Bar, Pneumatic impact, Bigger Breaker (3/4" drive) with extension. That sequence of attempts has been working great for a real long time. But I came across bolts on my Jag brake calipers that the previous technician had used Red Loctite and a monster impact wrench to install. Limited access as well. Had to find something bigger. Purchased a DeWalt 1/2" impact wrench with 1750 ft-lb of breakaway torque. Model: DCF961B. That did the trick. My new sequence is - wrench, 1/4 impact driver, 1/2" Breaker bar, monster DeWalt DCF961B. And sometimes, I just break out the big DeWalt because I don't feel like messing around.

 

[duneslider]

You mentioned the concern with throwaway batteries. If that is a concern stick with the nicer brand equipment. I had some cheaper home center brand tools and the batteries didn't last long. Eventually, I went with Makita in my case and the batteries have lasted significantly longer, so less impact on the environment. I have batteries that are over 10 years old at this point and performing fine still. I did not get that longevity with cheaper/offbrand stuff.

 

[Wamsutta]

Brake caliper bolts? I have the same issue but an impact wrench never entered my mind. I don't think the thing would fit in there.

This is what's on my want list. Yeah baby! I'm gonna get one eventually.

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

 

[dnschmidt]

Would you link to these products so I can see definitively which ones you’re talking about?

I’ve already Googled these terms and others people have mentioned here and only got more confused.

M12 Stubby: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/2562-20
DeWalt Mid-Torque: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-MID-RANGE-IMPACT-WRENCH-DCF891B/dp/B09YXXFPBJ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[dscheidt]

No reason for you to take the word of an internet stranger with unproven credentials over the procedures in a service manual (Haynes are so-so at best, may want to consult the OE manual) but that is my anecdotal experience. It's caliper bolts, were not fastening engines to the space shuttle.
I'd be a bit surprised to see the torque angle procedure being done in a dealership setting but stand to be corrected.

torque angles are very common on critical hardware, as it is the easiest accurate way of ensuring that the bolt is properly tight. (and brake caliper mounting hardware is pretty critical, even if not mounted to space shuttle.) The initial torque ensures that all the slop is taken out, then the angle ensures that the bolt is stretched the amount the designer wants. If you have an angle reading torque wrench, it's no harder to do this than to torque to a number. I'd hope a dealership does it right, but I wouldn't be surprised if they don't.

 

[Wamsutta]

Latest example was the rear brake calliper bolts on the family car. They were tight, hard to get at, and had shallow 16 mm heads.

I hate bolts and screws with shallow heads. I'd be getting rid of those sum'biches.

I'd replace them with flange head bolts with thick heads in the exact same thread pitch of course.

I'd be scanning the Auveco catalog for replacements.