Battery Tester / Analyzer

[bcradio]

How many of you own one or would recommend one? Is this a gimmicky type item or does it really serve a purpose?

 

[gibbon_guy]

I think they are gimmicky. I think a volt meter and a load tester are all you need.

 

[03protege]

It seems like 75% of the time I go to get a battery tested under warranty at one of the car shops the say the battery is in working condition. Then it fails on me, usually later in the same day. They even have the big machines.

 

[HaroRider]

I use a load tester as well as the load of the car electrical system and multimeter as well.

I have been pretty much on point with diagnosing bad alt and bat, however when ever I bring the alt or battery in I always get it confirmed, its just cheap insuracne..actually its free insurance.

 

[Danglerb]

If you need to quickly test batteries FREQUENTLY, then yes, for a normal person, not so much. Guys that love them are the off grid DIY people who scour junkyards for good batteries cheap to use in solar setups. The conductance type meters have the advantage of quickly testing a battery even if it doesn't have much of a charge on it.

My friends in Arizona say no tester predicts a failure in their heat, that a battery that tests good can croak from the heat suddenly and unexpectedly.

A "smart" electrical system analyzer can do more than test a battery quickly, it can look at the waveform from the alternator and catch some issues early.

**** All that said, right now the cheapest conductance tester I know of is HF around $80, which is $64 with a coupon, and I am kind of on the edge about getting one specifically so I can quickly test a battery without charging it first. So far I have decided to wait for a newer generation product.

 

[defy]

The Midtronics ones are good

 

[bcradio]

Thanks for the info guys... What do you use for a load tester?

Do you have a part number for the conductance tester at HF?

 

[theoldwizard1]

I think they are gimmicky. I think a volt meter and a load tester are all you need.

You also need a GOOD automatic battery charger, preferably one that has a "float charge" mode.

Forget all the fancy electronic tester.

• Remove battery from car.
• Thoroughly clean the outside of the battery with a stiff, non-metallic brush, baking soda and water and rinse well.
• Charge the battery using a GOOD automatic battery charger. At least 12 hours, 24 is better.
• disconnect from charger and check the battery voltage. It should be at least 13.2V.
• Place a load on the battery following the instructions on the load tester. (If you ignored the first half of this, just turn the headlights on for about 10 miuntes)
• Remove load and check the battery voltage. If it is below 10V, time for a new battery. Above 10V, it still has life. Ideally it should be above 12V.
• Clean the battery tray with baking soda and water. Clean the hold down clamp. Clean the cable ends with a wire brush. Re-install battery and after tightening the terminals, coat them with silicon dielectric grease.

 

[crewchief888]

The Midtronics ones are good

we just bought several (12-13) midtronics models with printer.

our OEM requires testing with a conductance type tester for any battery warranty.
the printer cuts down on the amount of paperwork for the warranty claim.


i've always been able to figure out electrical issues with a simple handheld load tester, and a DVM.

 

[xurusaibobx]

i use a midtronics one at work with printer.

easier to file for warranty claim

also you can test cranking/starter and charging voltage to test the whole system in less then 30 seconds.

 

[Seanbev24]

I like using the Midtronics for a quick battery check, but still prefer the carbon pile tester for diagnosing most starting/charging problems- http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostics/MT3750KRBC.asp

 

[theoldwizard1]

Sigh.

Someday I WILL buy an old Sun VAT 26 or 28.

 

[FiendFX]

I got the blue point battery tester. Best bang fOr the buck IMO

 

[bcradio]

Well I know it isn't the most grand, but I was looking at getting the yellow HF battery analyzer. It will only be for home use, so I do not need a printer or anything. Just not sure if its worth it or not

 

[Provincial]

I have the blue HF 500 amp load tester and have used it pretty regularly. It works well, but I wouldn't leave it on high amps for long, as it heats up fast. I just tested two heavy truck batteries today at the full 500 amps and it worked perfectly.

I have a Sun VAT-20 that I haven't had time to replace the cables on and check out. I expect it to be much sturdier, as it weighs three times as much as the HF unit.

 

[bob_the_builder]

I thought I would bring back and old thread rather than start a new one. I have been thinking about getting a battery tester and I was wondering if anyone has experience with the Snap-on EECS150 or the EECS350. I saw them in the Snap-on flyer but I am not sure how well they work. After reading all the threads on this site about battery testers, I think I am more confused now then when I started. So many different options.

The tester would be for work around the house: family and friends cars, a few boats, lawn tractor, etc. I usually run a battery tender on all the equipment but even with that I have been having some problems with batteries and I was thinking a tester might be nice to add to the toolbox.

Bob

 

[bob15]

Seems a bit more than I would spend on a battery tester for home use. Have you looked at Associated? They can be found relatively inexpensive on e-bay. Models 6029 & 6030 are nice to use with 6033 a little fancier. Many of their items are also US made, just click on the tester and it will tell you is it USA made.

http://associatedequip.com/products/#cat-item-66

 

[gungatim]

The Midtronics ones are good

yep. I love mine. very pricey but does a complete computerized analysis, charge, etc. has saved me tons of time messing around manually testing and charging. I took off the printer and don't use that anymore just the digital readout.

 

[sberry]

I have the blue HF 500 amp load tester and have used it pretty regularly. It works well, but I wouldn't leave it on high amps for long, as it heats up fast. I just tested two heavy truck batteries today at the full 500 amps and it worked perfectly.

I have a Sun VAT-20 that I haven't had time to replace the cables on and check out. I expect it to be much sturdier, as it weighs three times as much as the HF unit.

A battery cost 100$ anymore, The 50 spent on the HF is a bargain and I use it regularly and it works good. Even if you get other stuff this is well worth wayyyyy more than a guy pays for it. Its been one of my hi returns and can pay back in a single event.

 

[kball]

I thought I would bring back and old thread rather than start a new one. I have been thinking about getting a battery tester and I was wondering if anyone has experience with the Snap-on EECS150 or the EECS350. I saw them in the Snap-on flyer but I am not sure how well they work. After reading all the threads on this site about battery testers, I think I am more confused now then when I started. So many different options.

The tester would be for work around the house: family and friends cars, a few boats, lawn tractor, etc. I usually run a battery tender on all the equipment but even with that I have been having some problems with batteries and I was thinking a tester might be nice to add to the toolbox.

Bob

I have the SO EECS150 and I like it. Quick and easy test to tell you the life left in the battery. I also have a Solar model at home and they test pretty close. The SO will usually say the battery has less CCA's left. Different algorithms, different results... Coworker had a battery that read over 12v with dmm but acted dead. Put SO tester on it and only showed 16CCA left. Must have had an internal short or something. Like I said, quick and easy.

 

[bob_the_builder]

I have the SO EECS150 and I like it. Quick and easy test to tell you the life left in the battery. I also have a Solar model at home and they test pretty close. The SO will usually say the battery has less CCA's left. Different algorithms, different results... Coworker had a battery that read over 12v with dmm but acted dead. Put SO tester on it and only showed 16CCA left. Must have had an internal short or something. Like I said, quick and easy.

For me the main difference between the EECS150 and the EECS350 is the system testings. The EECS150 has a voltmeter where the EECS350 also does starting/charging/ripple/voltage. Has there been a time where you wish you could test the starting system or test the alternator?

Bob

 

[joel63]

For me the main difference between the EECS150 and the EECS350 is the system testings. The EECS150 has a voltmeter where the EECS350 also does starting/charging/ripple/voltage. Has there been a time where you wish you could test the starting system or test the alternator?

Bob

All the time. It's only been in the last 10 years did I have the capability to do so.

I have found the ability to check out the entire starting, charging and battery system to be invaluable in running down electrical problems.

I hate guessing or having doubts in the back of my mind.

The most conclusive tool that I used to track down ripple is a lab scope.

Now I'm sure there are other tools that will do same job as a lab scope.

Pm me if you want more specific information.

 

[kball]

For me the main difference between the EECS150 and the EECS350 is the system testings. The EECS150 has a voltmeter where the EECS350 also does starting/charging/ripple/voltage. Has there been a time where you wish you could test the starting system or test the alternator?

Bob

I don't test charging systems much. I usually just put a DMM on the batt when the engine is running and if I see 13.5 or more volts I call the alt good. I wonder what the EECS350 does to test it. Can it put a load on the alt?

 

[Bcom]

I personally bought a digital Solar BA7 because of the reviews on amazon. I wanted something to replace my old "toaster style" battery tester which still worked but wasnt always correct. Over the years ive found that my digital Solar isnt always correct either. So now when i test a battery,i use both,my old toaster style and my digital Solar BA7 unit. If both units claim the battery is good,then the battery is good. If one unit claims the battery is bad and the other unit claims its good,then the battery is bad. Kinda stinks to have to use two testers but when using them together,i can geta better idea if the battery is good or bad.

 

[bob_the_builder]

I don't test charging systems much. I usually just put a DMM on the batt when the engine is running and if I see 13.5 or more volts I call the alt good. I wonder what the EECS350 does to test it. Can it put a load on the alt?

I am trying to figure out the same thing - how does the EECS350 preform its tests. I have been looking for a manual or reviews of the tester but there is very little information on it.

I did find a video of someone doing a test with it on a car battery:

From what I can tell:

- Tests battery (engine off) and provides CCA and voltage
- Tests starting system and provides cranking voltage and time it took to crank the car
- Tests alternator and provides voltage at no load and voltage at load along with ripple. The load applied is manual and the user must turn on accessories in the car (lights, blower, etc.)

Based on that information I think you could do almost all that with the EECS150 in voltage mode but you have to manually record the voltage after each test. To me EECS150 is a basic multi-meter with the added benefit of testing CCA of the battery.

Is the EECS150 worth the extra money over the standard multi-meter tests I do already. Or is it better to go with a simple tester others have already recommended.

 

[geartow]

The boss. Just bought a case of the solar ba9 testers . For the tow trucks and service trucks.

 

[bob_the_builder]

The price looks very attractive on that solar ba9 tester.

Bob

 

[kball]

I am trying to figure out the same thing - how does the EECS350 preform its tests. I have been looking for a manual or reviews of the tester but there is very little information on it.

I did find a video of someone doing a test with it on a car battery:

From what I can tell:

- Tests battery (engine off) and provides CCA and voltage
- Tests starting system and provides cranking voltage and time it took to crank the car
- Tests alternator and provides voltage at no load and voltage at load along with ripple. The load applied is manual and the user must turn on accessories in the car (lights, blower, etc.)

Based on that information I think you could do almost all that with the EECS150 in voltage mode but you have to manually record the voltage after each test. To me EECS150 is a basic multi-meter with the added benefit of testing CCA of the battery.

Is the EECS150 worth the extra money over the standard multi-meter tests I do already. Or is it better to go with a simple tester others have already recommended.

I have the Solar BA9 at home. It's the one I said before tests closely to the SO. For the difference in price I guess I would go with the Solar. I would bet the SO has better algorithms but that's arguable.

 

[donpauli2]

You cannot beat a variable carbon pile load tester and accurate voltmeter


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