BBQ grill to residential propane

[dcg9381]

Ok, this has got to be a fairly dumb question, but I'm going to ask anyway.
I've got a residence with a gas line on the porch. It's 3/4" NPT male (with a gas valve behind it). I'd like to run a line from my simple weber propane grill to the residential (propane) gas line. I assume I remove the grill's regulator. What fittings / hose do I need to go from 3/4" NPT to weber grill?

 

[Bert_]

My grill has 3/8 flare connection. You can get a hose or just use copper if it's not going to move much. I plumbed my grill to natural gas.

 

[dcg9381]

Got it. 3/4 npt female to 3/8 flare, female-to-female 3/8 flare propane hose.

 

[The Cobbler]

and you probably should add a gas valve & a quick disconnect before the flex line

 

[CraigStu]

I would not remove the regulator. I did a propane tank to natural gas conversion on our Weber a few years ago so am somewhat familiar w/ the system. I know just enough to know that I don't know what pressure the house system has nor do I know what the grill needs. In my case I added a regulator. I can't give you exact fittings to make the swap but, in my opinion you absolutely need a piece of flexible hose between the grill and the gas line.

 

[The Cobbler]

^^^ above... are you tapping in after the secondary regulator or the primary?

 

[welder4956]

https://www.weber.com/US/en/blog/burning-questions/can-i-convert-my-gas-grill/weber-29870.html

 

[The Cobbler]

^^^ he is tapping a propane grill into a propane line.
and , FWIW, I did a Weber propane to nat gas conversion by drilling the orifices out to appropriate size, it works flawlessley

 

[That Guy Scott]

Here’s mine. I had my propane guy check the pressure to verify everything was kosher. I have a high pressure system- primary regulator at the tank and then a secondary regulator at the house (or grill). I used the one that came with the grill by removing the tank adapter part. I also added an automated valve on a timer that will automatically shutoff in case I forget it.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

^^^ he is tapping a propane grill into a propane line.
and , FWIW, I did a Weber propane to nat gas conversion by drilling the orifices out to appropriate size, it works flawlessley

Just don't tell Weber.

 

[The Cobbler]

That's why I got it for free. My buddy wanted to convert to NG from propane. Weber said , Nope, sorry... He gave it to me, I told him the process I used, he said, geesh, you're showing me up, with my Engineer background I should have been able to figure that out!

 

[Rc_Guy]

What is residential propane?

 

[PoorUB]

^^^ he is tapping a propane grill into a propane line.
and , FWIW, I did a Weber propane to nat gas conversion by drilling the orifices out to appropriate size, it works flawlessley

I worked in a HVAC supplier and we did it all the time. You just need to know the pressure of your NG, should be 3.5" and size the orifice to match the same BTU on NG as LPG.

As to the OP, I would leave the regulator in line, it will not hurt anything. You can buy fittings to match the POL tank fittings at most places that sell LPG heaters, like a farm supply. You should be able to reduce down from the 3/4 NPT to a POL tank fitting and connect right to the grills existing regulator.

POL fitting

 

[The Cobbler]

Thats what I did, we have 3.5" pressure. I matched the BTUs of the grill , as well measured the old orifices. drilled to the appropriate #drill size . installed the gas hose from my old grill. works perfect . on a warm day with no wind I can range from 150° with 3 burners on low to 700° on high .

 

[stevied916]

I would not remove the regulator. I did a propane tank to natural gas conversion on our Weber a few years ago so am somewhat familiar w/ the system. I know just enough to know that I don't know what pressure the house system has nor do I know what the grill needs. In my case I added a regulator. I can't give you exact fittings to make the swap but, in my opinion you absolutely need a piece of flexible hose between the grill and the gas line.

The house line, if plumed through a natural gas meter, should not use a regulator. The restriction is unnecessary since there is already a regulator at the meter and will reduce flow to the burners.

You can test the pressure with a simple water column.

If converting to ng, the jet orifice needs to be opened up.

 

[CraigStu]

stevied916 his house is propane, not natural gas. We don't know if his propane is plumbed through a 'natural gas meter'. I don't know if a regulator is a restriction or not but 99% of propane gas grills use a regulator so it must work OK. Because there are a lot of unknowns in this system, I think it is a good idea to use a regulator unless the system is pressure tested.

 

[Rc_Guy]

So reading more it looks like you want to tap into the natural gas line, not the propane line

 

[48windsor]

That's why I got it for free. My buddy wanted to convert to NG from propane. Weber said , Nope, sorry... He gave it to me, I told him the process I used, he said, geesh, you're showing me up, with my Engineer background I should have been able to figure that out!

Idl ike .to that if you are going from propane to Natural gas you will need to change orifices as they are different. very easy.

 

[FMB4]

As others have said; propane to propane = keep the grill (propane) regulator. Propane (residential tank) to NG appliance = a (usually) simple and cheap orifice change (there is no flow meter on Res propane tanks). You will, of course, want to test the fittings for leaks with soapy water. Ready, get set, BBQ!

 

[48windsor]

Idl ike .to that if you are going from propane to Natural gas you will need to change orifices as they are different. very easy.

to the burners . they should unscrew easily with a tiny wrench

 

[BillK]

So reading more it looks like you want to tap into the natural gas line, not the propane line

No, His house is Propane, not natural gas. So the line he is hooking up to is Propane.

 

[The Cobbler]

Idl ike .to that if you are going from propane to Natural gas you will need to change orifices as they are different. very easy.

well, you need to enlarge the orifice size, not necessarily change the orifice ... the orifice for nat gas is larger than for propane.

 

[yatg]

Ok, this has got to be a fairly dumb question, but I'm going to ask anyway.
I've got a residence with a gas line on the porch. It's 3/4" NPT male (with a gas valve behind it). I'd like to run a line from my simple weber propane grill to the residential (propane) gas line. I assume I remove the grill's regulator. What fittings / hose do I need to go from 3/4" NPT to weber grill?

Sigh. The OP says he's got a propane stub out on his porch. If that's accurate, then its simple piping to connect the grill. Did this over 25 years ago at a house I owned and its not a big deal.

For propane, like natural gas, the house stub is already at the reduced pressure for appliances and you don't need a regulator. There's no reason to re-regulate the low pressure, and a cheap chinese grill regulator might even have a problem with low in and low out.

Assuming your description of having a 3/4 npt male at the stub is correct, and assuming the grill has a standard 3/8 male flare connector, you'll need a 3/4 npt female to 3/8 male flare adapter and a hose with 3/8 female flare ends.

examples:

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

 

[JOE.G]

When I re did my house , The propane company added a stub for my grill, We removed the regulator from the grill as the system already had to regulators on it and the outlets were adjusted by those. I am very glad I did this as we grill a lot and i do not have to worry about swapping tanks. One thing I do suggest is getting a inline timer like stated in apost above, My GF has left it on for hours a couple times, A home I rented for vacation last week had one and it was great.

 

[dcg9381]

Yes, it's on propane, not NG. House is already regulated, so using the BBQ regulator isn't necessary.
Appreciate the link / info on the timer. That's a great idea.

 

[That Guy Scott]

Yes, it's on propane, not NG. House is already regulated, so using the BBQ regulator isn't necessary.
Appreciate the link / info on the timer. That's a great idea.

Your right, the bbq regulator isn’t needed since its stubbed out after the regulator. I missed that part. My vacation spot is done like your doing. I had a custom line made up (no regulator) to be able to put the bbq in a certain area of the yard.

Heres the link for the valve switch I used and it’s all tied in to my SmartLife app

Amazon.com

 

[larry4406]

Here’s mine. I had my propane guy check the pressure to verify everything was kosher. I have a high pressure system- primary regulator at the tank and then a secondary regulator at the house (or grill). I used the one that came with the grill by removing the tank adapter part. I also added an automated valve on a timer that will automatically shutoff in case I forget it.

Details please on this auto timer shutoff valve for the grille please.

 

[yeldogt]

Webber makes a kit for the connection ..... it has a hose.

Webber will only sells same gas to same gas ..... they don't make the conversion orifice available.

Most people have secondary regulators prior to each building w/ the primary at the tank. The ones I have seen don't have another regulator if they have that secondary in place.

 

[dcg9381]

Most people have secondary regulators prior to each building w/ the primary at the tank. The ones I have seen don't have another regulator if they have that secondary in place.

Yes. We have two regulators. High pressure at the propane tank, then low pressure where gas enters the house on a 1" line.

 

[MacTexas]

Here is what I did and it's worked for 6 years.

 

[yeldogt]

Yes. We have two regulators. High pressure at the propane tank, then low pressure where gas enters the house on a 1" line.

Think my line from the tank is 3/4" -- the primary regulator is still sending what would be called high pressure. My memory is the BTU's of a 3/4 line from primary is over one million BTU's. Most of the stuff inside my house is 3/4 after the regulator.

The connection to the grill is by way of a hose w/ quick connect to the house outlet. They look like a valved stub-out with a plastic plug when the grill is not connected

 

[yeldogt]

Here is what I did and it's worked for 6 years.

That type of flex is for a stationary appliance .... like a dryer or stove. Some places you can use them for gas water heaters .... They are not designed for any appliance that may require regular flexing

The type for a grill has to be a hose around me --- w/ a quick connect.

 

[Bert_]

On mine I just used 3/8 copper. The grill doesn't get moved but copper can handle a small amount of movement. If you move the grill around it needs a hose.

 

[That Guy Scott]

Details please on this auto timer shutoff valve for the grille please.

Amazon.com

and I use the SmartLife app to control it.

 

[MacTexas]

That type of flex is for a stationary appliance .... like a dryer or stove. Some places you can use them for gas water heaters .... They are not designed for any appliance that may require regular flexing

The type for a grill has to be a hose around me --- w/ a quick connect.

The grill is in the same spot it's been for the entire 6 years.

 

[finn]

The grill is in the same spot it's been for the entire 6 years.

Unless it’s permanently anchored in something like a brick barbecue pit, with no possibility of moving, it needs a hose connection, not a section of copper tubing, or, worse yet, convoluted gas pipes.

The hoses, along with quarter turn gas shutoff valves and appropriate quick disconnect fittings designed for this type of installation are readily at your local big box HD or Lowe’s.

The old homeowner rationalization that “I never move it”, or “it’s worked for years” just doesn’t cut it when the fire marshal is investigating why your house burned down.

Do it right or pay someone to do it correctly.

 

[Rc_Guy]

Unless it’s permanently anchored in something like a brick barbecue pit, with no possibility of moving, it needs a hose connection, not a section of copper tubing, or, worse yet, convoluted gas pipes.

The hoses, along with quarter turn gas shutoff valves and appropriate quick disconnect fittings designed for this type of installation are readily at your local big box HD or Lowe’s.

The old homeowner rationalization that “I never move it”, or “it’s worked for years” just doesn’t cut it when the fire marshal is investigating why your house burned down.

Do it right or pay someone to do it correctly.

You are correct, but either way insurance will pay if your house burns down because of it

 

[yeldogt]

The grill is in the same spot it's been for the entire 6 years.

It's all in the classification -- if it can move ... they view it as it will be moved and you have to pipe to code. I'm not sure how they view those stainless steel outdoor kitchens .. the ones where you connect together the individual carts. As separates they have wheels -- when you string them together most people put them on legs. They don't move -- but, it would be up to the code official.

Mine is masonry with a drop in grill and stove -- they both have the SS type for a range. Sort of your set up.

There most be more of an issue with the metal flex leaking vs the hose -- although, you do hear of the hose being attacked by rodents.

 

[dcg9381]

You are correct, but either way insurance will pay if your house burns down because of it

Not that I'd want to test it, but if insurance pays out from a fire related to smoking a cigarette, isn't that sorta in the same category? I'd think they'd be unable to tell if it was a leak or a physical connection failure (at least in my case, the whole deck would come down). If insurance didn't pay out on "stupid human" - our rates would be a lot lower..