Be gentle, very basic framing question

[TT_Vert]

This my first time framing and I'm relying on youtube and other research. Of course everyone has an opinion but I'm picking out what makes the most sense structurally for me. I have a question about the header.

My question pertains to floor joists that run parallel w/ the wall I'm making. How can I put up some strips or 2x4s to secure a header when there is nothing there (I think this is called blocking from research) I've seen there are a few 2x6s running perpendicular and while I could try to toenail some of them in there some of the places have ducting and also conduit making that a nogo. If blocking is the right term, it states to secure it to the sill plate. The sill plate would **** right up to the blocking, would I toenail this somehow? I've taken a few pics to help illustrate this.

Overall I'm happy for day 1 of learning this. Sadly I framed one wall about 1/4" too tall (It's hard to read the tape measure when you are bending it at the joist. I probably should have put it next to it rather than under it). I think i may just use my laser from here on out to hopefully prevent this.


Thanks guys

Dave

 

[pentavolvo]

Wish I had good answers for you but when I finished my basement I just shoved a 2x4 in where I could get it to anchor in solid. Luckily I didn’t have many obstacles. Sorry I’m not more help

Neat seeing someone from Wauconda. My parents live there and I spent summers there growing up

 

[The Cobbler]

I think I understand you. the walls you're framing aren't structural . cut blocking to fit between the joists and screw them in place. even a screw at one end is sufficient. screw your top plate to the blocking. the wall is solid. it can't go anywhere

 

[TT_Vert]

I think I understand you. the walls you're framing aren't structural . cut blocking to fit between the joists and screw them in place. even a screw at one end is sufficient. screw your top plate to the blocking. the wall is solid. it can't go anywhere

You are certainly correct it cannot go anywhere as the top plate really is just securing the wall from tipping in or out, not up/down. I guess I'm just too OCD to consider that as an option but I suppose you are right, it's only there to keep the top of the wall plumb.


And as far as Wauconda, I love the small town vibe here. Found a house w/ a garage I could not pass up so here I am until wifey wants to retire. Then out of the land of corruption and taxes.

Dave

 

[couch67]

agree with Cobblers advice. You can use a mixed bag of blocking methods to get around the obstacles in your pictures. Screws will be much easier in those locations.

Is the wall that you made 1/4" too high the one that will go parallel with the joists? If so, you should have no problems still using it. Just set your blocking 1/4" higher than the bottom of the joists.

 

[TT_Vert]

agree with Cobblers advice. You can use a mixed bag of blocking methods to get around the obstacles in your pictures. Screws will be much easier in those locations.

Is the wall that you made 1/4" too high the one that will go parallel with the joists? If so, you should have no problems still using it. Just set your blocking 1/4" higher than the bottom of the joists.

It was not parallel sadly or yeah I could have dealt w/ it easily. I'm using a double header because I have to clear some conduit and the like so I pulled the header from the wall I build and just took my cir. saw to them. Easier than I expected, took all of 5 minutes. That wall has a basement window in it so I measured and framed on ground, I was 100% confident it wasn't going to fit right or would be angled but everything is perfect and I have a 1" reveal around the entire window. I did this on a recommendation of someone and I plan to use 1/2" or 3/8" drywall and 1/2" quarter round or something similar to trim it out. I'm going to have to research that too..

Thanks for the help on this guys, appreciate the input as this is one of the few things I've never dabbled in due to lack of knowledge.

Dave

 

[kbs2244]

Does Simpson make a bracket that would solve your problem ?

https://www.fastenersplus.com/shop-by-product/simpson-connectors

 

[3onthetree]

I think what you are calling the header is the top plate of your new walls. Not only is it difficult to build the wall on the floor and lift it up past the angle, but concrete or joists may not be perfect so a 1/4" here and there may make life difficult. So usually basement walls are either stick built or some framers actually build laying down 1 1/2" short, then put blocks under the bottom plate or above a single top plate after raising it. The wall top plate is secured to blocking laid flat between parallel joists.

You probably need a firestop around the perimeter. An easy way is to put a 2x4, 6 or 8 (depending on how much air space between the concrete and wall you want and the size of sill plate) laid right next to the house foundation sill plate. Then drop a line to the slab from that edge for where your wall's bottom plate goes. The walls will then most likely be square with the house above.