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be your own general contractor

jlylec

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Jul 20, 2012
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Charlottesville, VA
I just about have the plans done for my new detached garage. I've spoken with the guy who built our house about building this garage and he is interested but seems busy and he's a small custom builder so i'm worried. Now I'm wondering if I should just be the general contractor and hire all the subs, etc. Plus I would save some money since he was going to charge me cost + 10%.

My problem is I've never really done that before and am wondering how feasible it is. Any thoughts on this?

I don't know where to begin with permits, steps, etc. I am basically a project manager for my profession where I manage large, multi-year pharmaceutical trials with many many players working together so I'm not worried about multi-task management...just wondering how to figure out all the tasks without missing something important!

Here are a couple pics of the build.
CC_frontelev.jpg

CC_leftelev.jpg

CC_floorplan.jpg

Let me know if you have any tips or things to consider!

Thanks...Lyle
 
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wnstwolf

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On thing that surprised me when I was going to go this route for my house was once I convinced myself I could pull it off the bank said no! If your going to need a loan check they may not be so eager to let you learn on their dime.
If you are going to do a lot of the work yourself it is a great route to take ONLY if you can be on site quickly when questions arise and they will. You pay folks by the hour so if they have a question they either wait till it is answered, charging you to sit, or worse go forward with out asking only to have to do it over again on your dime. I was a 20 minute ride away from house and even with a GC I was on site way too much!
 

sublimate

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Colorado
IMHO, Ladders **** for carrying parts, tools, and other items up and down to a loft.
I see you're adding a hoist to get the big things up to the loft, but it will still be a PITA for all the small things that it's not worth getting the hoist out for.

I know stairs take up a lot of room (although you can store plenty of stuff below them), but I think you'll be happier in the long run if you can squeeze them in.
 
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jlylec

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Charlottesville, VA
On thing that surprised me when I was going to go this route for my house was once I convinced myself I could pull it off the bank said no! If your going to need a loan check they may not be so eager to let you learn on their dime.
If you are going to do a lot of the work yourself it is a great route to take ONLY if you can be on site quickly when questions arise and they will. You pay folks by the hour so if they have a question they either wait till it is answered, charging you to sit, or worse go forward with out asking only to have to do it over again on your dime. I was a 20 minute ride away from house and even with a GC I was on site way too much!

fortunately i don't have to go to the bank this time...I am worried about having to run home every other day though!
 
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jlylec

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IMHO, Ladders **** for carrying parts, tools, and other items up and down to a loft.
I see you're adding a hoist to get the big things up to the loft, but it will still be a PITA for all the small things that it's not worth getting the hoist out for.

I know stairs take up a lot of room (although you can store plenty of stuff below them), but I think you'll be happier in the long run if you can squeeze them in.

yeah i know...I've really be racking my brain on a way to squeeze one in, but if i want a lift it's really tough without making the whole thing even bigger. I even considered outside steps but really don't like that idea.
 

LutzTD

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yeah i know...I've really be racking my brain on a way to squeeze one in, but if i want a lift it's really tough without making the whole thing even bigger. I even considered outside steps but really don't like that idea.

I would move your upstairs windows so one is in the spot where the stairs will end on the man door side. Then if you want later replace the window with a man door and put on the outside steps. Also, under the outside steps would be a grat place for your air compressor.

if you contract it yourself, expect to take twice as long..... you will also have to find all the guys yourself and may run into conflicts in schedule that the GC will have some pull to avoid.
 
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aardquark

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Aug 27, 2011
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72
I've done this, and here is the problem that I have encountered: I'm nobody to the mechanic I'm hiring to do the job. I have no history with him, and as a homeowner there is no prospective future business that is likely to be coming from me. As such, my job is lowest in priority. Phone calls don't get returned, sometimes for weeks, no one shows up for weeks, and when they do, typically a tiny bit of work is done, and then more weeks with nothing.

As an example: I recently had a foundation I wanted poured, in August. I called all the local contractors I could identify (about five). It took over three weeks for anyone to return my call. The fellow I selected dug the footings in late September, but didn't finish the form work and pour until late October. It was Dec 20 when the foundation walls finally got poured, and mid January before the forms were removed.

My ordeal is not over... I've been waiting over a month to get my garage floor poured. Still waiting. Last phone call from me to him was over a week ago, all I asked for was a date... I got an answering machine, which is all I ever get, and so far no reply.

So, I recommend great caution in choosing who you hire. They may do great work, but you also need to know WHEN they are going to do it.
 

zporta

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It's going to be difficult to hire all of your own subs and line them up in order. Most builders or gc's have subs already lined up that they always work with so the scheduling would not be an issue.
 

denis4x4

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Jul 23, 2006
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Durango CO
With help from my wife, I've been my own contractor on some major remodels. Over the years, I've hired a competent builder to be my "assistant" and he gets either more per hour or a bonus for being my eyes and ears. I just got a CO on a remodel that ran $250,000 + and with one exception, the subs were great.

There are three rules I follow without fail;
1. I'm always available (or my wife is) to answer questions on the spot.
2. I'm not afraid to fire someone who I think isn't getting the job done.
3. Checks for cut on a weekly basis for labor and on the 10th and 25th for materials.

Yes, I'm retired!
 

Outlawmws

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IMHO, Ladders **** for carrying parts, tools, and other items up and down to a loft.
I see you're adding a hoist to get the big things up to the loft, but it will still be a PITA for all the small things that it's not worth getting the hoist out for.

I know stairs take up a lot of room (although you can store plenty of stuff below them), but I think you'll be happier in the long run if you can squeeze them in.

If you are planning on that beam for actual lifting, make it so the door closes around it, or are flush with the bottom. Then bury a track (Unistrut may work, depending on what load you plan) and use a trolly system to go from inside to outside and yise versa. When not in use just shove a suitable piece of foam into the track at the door to seal it for pests, birds and air.

I would move your upstairs windows so one is in the spot where the stairs will end on the man door side. Then if you want later replace the window with a man door and put on the outside steps. Also, under the outside steps would be a grat place for your air compressor.
SNIP.

I agree with this idea. you may not want it now, but plan for the future.
 

Boomer343

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Mar 19, 2012
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When you call the fellow that built your house to come and bail you out when you don't want to be the general anymore it will cost you a lot more than what he would have originally done it for.

The learning curve is steep and some of the most important items are at the start of the job and that will affect everything that follows. There is also a lingo...for example think about how you speak with the people you work with...you know that lingo...if I was to listen in you would be stopping every minute to explain what just got said and what it meant. Same in construction especially at the worksite so you are at a disadvantage and will be second guessing a lot.

As also stated you are a one off and have no leverage.

Make your money at what you do and have this very nice building built by someone you trust.....
 

yost69

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Jul 30, 2011
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305
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WV
Why couldn't you move the sink to the corner and run stairs down that wall? So your sink would be under the stairs. Your stairs would go from the outside corner down towards your lift.

10.5" tread and a 7.5" rise I think would be around 16 steps for your setup of 9'8" ceiling height. Would probably end right at your 12'5" loft width.
 

Steves32

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I was the GC on my garage.
I'm a contractor though. ;)
I knew all my subs from years of jobs.
 

jlckmj

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SE Wiscosin
10% is very reasonable for doing the general contracting.

Like others have already mentioned, you will not be able to get the subs lined up when you want them. If they are any good they are busy, and they will promise you a date and when one of their regular general contractors calls, you will be put on the back burner because you will not be building anything soon, if ever again, but regular general contractors will.

Jim
 
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jlylec

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Charlottesville, VA
man you guys are great! so much awesome advice. yeah i'm going to leave the contracting to the contractor. i don't have the time to be always available and i don't have the connections in the industry. makes sense.

and i'm going to see how the stairs will fit in that back corner. i should have plenty of room actually and don't need that much flat wall space as much as i would use the stairs.
 
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jlylec

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If you are planning on that beam for actual lifting, make it so the door closes around it, or are flush with the bottom. Then bury a track (Unistrut may work, depending on what load you plan) and use a trolly system to go from inside to outside and yise versa. When not in use just shove a suitable piece of foam into the track at the door to seal it for pests, birds and air.

this is really good advice...i definitely plan on using the hoist. my dad built a garage like this when we were growing up and i always loved the hoist aspect of it. plus it's very functional.

my hoist is good for 880lbs so i guess i'd want a track at least that strong. probably 1000lbs or so.

thanks!
 
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JDishong

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Prosper, Texas
Check your city website for development services / building inspector section. Most cities post a ton of info such as permit fees, building inspection guidelines, construction forms, etc, etc. By reading this info you become familiar with the construction process in general terms at least.

In addition, have a builder provide you a detailed estimate (itemized labor and materials). The detailed estimate itself is very informative as it basically spells out the construction process for you in most cases.

Have an Engineer (ME) design the slab, only costs a few hundred dollars. He will provide the detail drawings & specifications for your slab.

For your framing, go to a lumber company and provide them your drawing and they will quote you material lumber estimate. They typically have a software program that allows them to input your building specifications and the software provides you the drawing for your framing (truss type, spacing, etc,). Then you can go out and get bids on framing (labor) with the drawing they provide you.

You should do a lot of research to become very familiar with the construction process of every phase; electrical , plumbing. Have drawings available for each sub to quote.

Since there is a lot of residential construction going on near my home I am able to do a lot of site visits and learn a lot about how things are done. I am learning a bit more each week but I am still undecided whether I will be my GC or hire a builder.

For the builders I have gotten quotes from , they typically are charging me a 20% fee or $ 8k - $10k. For the most part, builders can purchase material a few % cheaper than you but his subs are typically 10 - 20% cheaper than if you were to get subs (of good quality). Basically, it will probably cost you the same whether you GC or hire a builder.

The only real way to save significant money is if you do a lot of the labor. For me, I feel I can do rough and final electrical, rough/final plumbing (although I probably won't try rough plumbing), and interior build-out, paint, etc. Things I know I can't do (or won't) : foundation, framing, masonry, drywall, or roofing 12:12 pitch roof. Unfortunately, these items represent nearly 60% of the cost budget :(.

Keep us posted!
 

willymakeit

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Springfield Mo.
As ag general, you are responsible to verify the subs have insurance and in the proper amounts. If you let uninsured subs work and one gets injured you will be responsible for their issues.
Only the subs insurance company can issue the work comp. certificate, and you will need to keep up with it. Then there is general liability and more depending on where you live.
The work comp laws differ from state to state, so know and research it.
I'm not trying to discourage you. I've been in the trades for 35 years as a general and as a super on projects up to 20 million. The difference is I'm not responsible for the insurance or their receivables.
 

VANAMAL

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Jul 26, 2012
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Solvang,ca
Im a subcontractor and i dont usually respond to homeowners especially women. My cost are lower working for the general as they will be ready when they call. In and out. Also most of the generals will make sure the subs are licensed and insured. Workmans comp and general liability are there for everyones protection. In ca a preliminary lien notice ensures that material suppliers are paid by the subs. You dont want to buy materials twice because you hired some flake and the materials people lien your property. If you do general it yourself ask the subs for a certificate of insurance and write everything down
 

darkk

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Dec 24, 2009
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Willimantic, Ct.
I've never done this type of work before, my addition is pretty large, around 2300 sq ft added to an existing home. I am good with managing so I decided to be my own general contractor for a large garage and living area addition. It isn't difficult at all and you will save a ton of money. Go to the town hall for the permits, explain what you are doing and they will guide you along. Become acquainted with the building inspector. Be really nice to this guy and he will help you along also and keep you out of trouble. Become knowledgeable about the process of how things are built, some subs are really stupid and ask questions every 5 minutes, choose someone that can work independently and ask around for references as who to hire and require insurance and licenses. Do not pay in full for work that has not been done. All the subs you hire should be at a set price, no hourly wage, be upfront and very specific about what type of quality work you require and make them stick to it. This way there should be no cost over run. Pay for the materials yourself so there will not be anyone suing you for materials your sub had delivered and didn't pay for. When scheduling, if you can afford the time, don't schedule the subs to close together, if weather or other problems make one sub get behind, the next one will be getting paid to stand around. I scheduled one contractor in and when he was done, I scheduled the next. You would be surprised at how cash payment moves you up on the list... Payments should be done in increments, not all at once. Materials, at half way and after finish inspection of that particular work. Hold money back for anything not finished to your liking. Here is a pic of my project. For more photos, check out my signature....mine is done now except for some minor interior trim and a toilet etc.
 

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Doug B

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Schroon Lake, NY
yeah i know... I even considered outside steps but really don't like that idea.

Why not? The plans all ready show 4 steps and a landing outside....if it was my choice,I would continue the steps up from the 4'x5' landing,convert the window nearest the corner to a door,and you're in. My $.02 (not worth much)

Good luck on your build,which ever way you go with.It's a nice design....post lots of pics!
 

chadman

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Feb 5, 2008
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Wakeman, OH
IMO being your own GC is the only way to go. Two years ago I GC'd the construction of my house and saved over 50k. I also did a lot of the labor. It was my first time as a GC and doing many of the tasks. My Dad and I did all of the electrical and I did the wood floors, tile, set the doors cabinets and vanities, interior trim carpentry, etc. I'm getting ready to build a shop soon and you can bet I will be doing the same.
 
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jlylec

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Charlottesville, VA
this is really good advice...i definitely plan on using the hoist. my dad built a garage like this when we were growing up and i always loved the hoist aspect of it. plus it's very functional.

my hoist is good for 880lbs so i guess i'd want a track at least that strong. probably 1000lbs or so.

thanks!

my designer says he's hesitant to make the change to the door closing around the door or it being flush with the bottom due to potential water damage. it seems like this has to be something that's been tackled before. does anybody have any advice on this?
 
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jlylec

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Thanks guys...now more great advice the OTHER way to be the GC. IT's a tough decision, and I think I could probably do it if I had more time. Considering my builder is a known quantity to me now (built my house and did an amazing job) and I don't really see having the time to be available for all the subs at any given moment, I think I'm just going to let him do it. Especially since I'm hoping this is going to cost $50k so his 10% is only $5k. Not that $5k is chump change by any means, but considering the worse deals I'll get on materials, time away from work, etc. I would probably only end up saving $2k or so and I'm not sure that's worth the potential headache and mistakes I could make as a first timer. I really hadn't thought about an experienced GC getting better deals on materials and subs. And having subs not even want to work with me or call me back. I don't want this to take any longer than it has to. I've got a truck sitting in the elements baking every day right now!
 

bczygan

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Very smart decision.
He'll earn that money, every penny.
Consider a construction management contract with a fixed fee and an arrangement for you both to share in any savings. That way he is your agent and will look out for you. Early completion can also be a reward-able item. with penalties for late completion. A fixed fee CM contract guarantees him his OH and profit. He can spend his time and energy making things better for you.
 
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jlylec

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Very smart decision.
He'll earn that money, every penny.
Consider a construction management contract with a fixed fee and an arrangement for you both to share in any savings. That way he is your agent and will look out for you. Early completion can also be a reward-able item. with penalties for late completion. A fixed fee CM contract guarantees him his OH and profit. He can spend his time and energy making things better for you.

This is really good advice and something I think my builder will be interested in. Is there any objection you could imagine he'd have and counter for me to have ready? This may be a ridiculous request of mine considering all the variables in this discussion...just wondering if there are some standard objections or anything. Thanks!
 

rafe

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you probably won't save anything...and could spend more. A reputable builder is the way to go....
 

bczygan

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If he is a sophisticated general he will know the advantages to himself as well as to you. Ask if he has ever worked this way. Some contractors prefer it and work that way all the time. Some others don't. An advantage to you is you get to see all the numbers broken down. But you have to be a sophisticated buyer and not be shocked at what you see. He needs to trust you as much as you do him, for you both to be a team. Convince him that you will do everything to make the project smooth and efficient by making selections and payments in an expeditious manner and you may be able to strike a deal. In return, he should find you his best subs and help you make decisions based on his experience, with your best interests at heart. Doesn't that sound better to you (And hopefully him) than the slightly adversarial relationship that owners and builders sometimes slip into? Sit down with him and have a heart to heart and ask him what his experience with this form of relationship has been. If he has worries, ask him how you can assuage them.

Just a note to whoever about being your own GC. You can do it. I had experience as a designer, purchasing agent and estimator for architects and builders and know the different phases of the work involved. I would hesitate to do it. I don't know the current prices or have available to me, the best contractors.
 
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Outlawmws

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my designer says he's hesitant to make the change to the door closing around the door or it being flush with the bottom due to potential water damage. it seems like this has to be something that's been tackled before. does anybody have any advice on this?


I'm not sure how it's any, or much different that having a beam sticking out through the wall there above the door. The trick is shedding water,

(Same issue on the common practice of having a "waist" board between floors and siding on two story buildings. I ran all mine through my table saw so the top "flat" was no longer flat. it sloped to the outside... My contractors jaw was on the ground on some of the small and somewhat unorthodox details I added to my addition...)


First, I'd push the eaves over that doorway to a full foot like the rest of the eaves. This reduces the rain on that portion of the wall, (unless it is being blasted head on by wind. What direction are the prevailing winds from?)

Second I'd have an extra thick and tall board going over the to of the door the was notched for the beam, Slope the top of that board so it had a way to drain the rain. Second, I'd make the same cut on the bottom of the board, so it has a drip edge on the outer face. (router cut, with a beveled cutter set to cut a notch, so the outer face has the drip edge, and the top of the door is still flush with the board)

If you want to get really tricky, do the same drip edge on the bottom of the beam, so water does not want to wick under it.

As for sealing around the beam, what was he planning to do before this was suggested? :confused:
 
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jlylec

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thanks outlaw! I think this makes great sense and is something my builder will easily understand but maybe not the CADD guy who's helping me with the design and drawings for the county permits. i'm just going make him draw it that way and work out these drip edges and sloped tops with the builder. i remember him doing those drip edges on the outside sills of the windows so this is certainly normal.

the prevailing wind comes from the west and the garage will face north. so rain isn't going to be blown into it except on rare occasions.

i'm forwarding your text on to him now. thanks again!
 

inphx

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Phoenix/Scottsdale AZ
Interesting thread. I’m in a similar point and my slant is how to get insurance during the build process. If I could step back a few months – I WOULD without a doubt create an LLC and have that own the property. If I am hiring subs for the labor acting as the General Contractor (GC) then any mishap or ******* war on liability would end with max $ exposure at the property. Otherwise my savings and even future wage garnishment are at risk – not a way to save a few grand with that exposure.

I am sorting through how to correctly qualify with the insurance company on use of a general contractor for core foundation and framing… there is some rule I need to have specifics on. Apparently if it’s a remodel or existing building – then you are covered for trades licensed or unlicensed to you policy limits. But if its bare ground they won’t write the policy without a GC (who needs to have the liability insurance).

Sorry to hijack the thread with a debbie downer topic.
 

Angelfire

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New Mexico and Ireland
I am currently in the process of acting as my own general on a detached garage and an addition to my home. It has been a learning experience and as hard as it's been, I've really had a good time with this. I'll try not to ramble to much.

The permitting process can seem a bit daunting depending on your building inspector. There are those that will do anything to convince a homeowner to hire a general vs. doing it themselves and I've even heard a few inspectors say they will do everything possible to reject a homeowner's bid to be their own general. My first interactions with my building inspector started down this path (asked me if I've ever cut a piece of wood before...haha). I played humble and brought good questions to the table with him and over time, he's warmed up to me. Actually took pictures of the job I did installing/sealing my windows to "show the contractors how it should be done". You really need to build a solid relationship with the bldg inspector or life will be hell. A friend of mine who is pretty arrogant did a similar build and pissed the guy off. He ended up having to bow out as general and hired a licensed contractor to finish it off....$$$$.

Insurance/Workman's comp: Insist on contractors that are licensed and carry insurance. As the general, you have every right to ask for a confirmation their insurance is up to date. You are liable for any injuries to folks that are not covered....it's not easy as some of them show up with different people each day so be vigilant. Oh and get a builders risk policy as well. $200 or so is cheap insurance.

Bids: Get multiple bids for items. I went after on average, 5 bids for each trade I was subbing out. I haven't hired the low bidder yet, nor have I hired the high bidder. I hired the person I felt the most comfortable with and had a reasonable price. I also got bids from 3 General's just to see where I was coming in vs. hiring the whole thing out.

Payments: Make progress payments and be flexible with when you pay. I found that when a sub asks for a "draw" and I pay them on the spot, they tend to work with me better vs. telling them to submit in writing their request and I'll pay in 30 days. Doesn't work that well in residential construction.

Scope: Make damn sure your scope is well defined and it's exactly what you want. Otherwise, you will get the sub's interpretation of what was in the prints and it may not match what you are after. Scrub your prints in depth over and over until you are convinced it's what you want and it's accurate. Even details as small as where the sink is located in your vanity can have an effect on how it gets build. Prints show the sink on the left and you chose a vanity with a sink in the center, could be an issue.
Research the hell out of materials, methods, etc... so you can talk intelligently with the subs about what you want.....otherwise, they may just snow you with BS. (Concrete guy actually tried to talk me out of fiber in my pour....I know it's not rebar but for $3.50 a yard extra, it was added protection during the cure). Be very clear the quality level of materials you expect. If your prints show a door, you're going to get a $20 door when you probably were thinking of a $200 door. Be very wary of scope creep.

What will you own? Here's where I may have bit off more than I can chew but so far I'm keeping up, barely. I decided I just couldn't do my own dirtwork, concrete, plumbing, mechanical, electrical, framing, or stucco. Otherwise I'm doing it all myself. And it's a mad dash to keep up with subs that have 5-10 guys working for them. While I'm saving significant $$ doing a number of things myself, sometimes I wonder if it would have been more prudent hiring out a few things. As the general, you will need to provide a number of things you may not think about: trash management whether it be a roll off dumpster or you hauling the **** to the dump yourself, porta-potty, power, water, etc....unless you spell these things out with your subs before bidding. Be clear about keeping the jobsite clean. I wasn't and to be honest, the majority of subs are absolute pigs. I'm finding fast food bags, soda cans, etc...all over my yard.

Schedule: Here's where I've learned a lot! Understand from your inspector just what the inspections are and what's required. As an example, I had no idea that the framing inspection couldn't be done until the electrical/mechanical/plumbing/fireplace inspections were complete....not a huge thing but nevertheless, it threw me for a bit of a loop at first. For inspections, make sure everything is visible.....inspectors don't put up with pictures of what you did...they want to see it first hand. Don't be the guy that covers up his sheathing with paper/wrap only to find out the inspector wanted to see the nailing patterns on the OSB....you'll just end up spending money to take all the stuff off and putting it on again. Work with your subs to understand how long they need to get their work done and how much notice they need to start. I typically got responses of "call me a week before you need me there" only to find out they weren't available for 2 weeks so be **** about communicating with them (it doesn't hurt that the squeaky wheel gets the grease so to speak). I published a full out project schedule to all my subs with their inputs included and call them weekly (more often actually) with any updates. Unless you are at the site all the time, you will need to rely on the phone, email, and texts to keep everyone in the loop. I manage construction at my job ($100 million in projects last year) and it's always very time sensitive stuff so I endeavored to have no float in the schedule...JIT'd everything. So far, it's worked out pretty well considering this is my first try at this. Understand that if you are buying the doors and hanging them yourself, you'd better have dates figured as to when you should order them so they arrive in time (windows, lumber, fixtures, etc...again, depends on how much stuff you decide you want to own) and you don't hold anyone up. These guys typically jump at whatever work they can find and will string you along as long as they can just to land more work. If you maintain your schedule, it's much easier to keep them engaged and moving forward.

Codes: It's hard to research codes. I just couldn't bring myself to reading the code books to be honest....and when a municipality has about 10 agencies worth of codes attached to their requirements, it's nearly impossible to keep up. Use your subs and inspectors as sounding boards for what is required. Everytime an inspector comes out for an inspection, I'm there to not only develop the punchlist for the subs (I actually do this BEFORE the actual inspection) but also to ask what they are looking for on the next inspection.

Understand that subs work at their own pace mostly. Some will show up for a couple of hours then disappear. Others showed up at 0600 on a Saturday and start framing (not great for neighbor relations!). As long as they are hitting their schedule, I don't care if they visit once to do the work or 10 times to do the work as long as it gets done.

Neighbor relations: Spend a bit of time walking the neighborhood and letting folks know what you are up to. Take a set of prints (preferably the ones approved by the building inspector in case you have any grumpy neighbors), a rough schedule, etc... and have a quick conversation with your neighbors. Give them a number you can be reached at should their be any issues etc... Neighbors can cause serious issues if they are not happy with what's going on so like the inspectors, you should keep them happy.

While it's still early to tell for me, all indications are that I will save significant $$ contracting it myself. The 3 generals that bid it came in around $175/SF for the addition and $35/SF for the garage (it's pretty bare bones). For the addition, I planned to come in at around $95/SF and so far I'm pretty well on track for that. The garage was pretty close to a wash as I'll come in around $32/SF. All in all, I stand to save around $65k doing this myself which will just add that much more to my equity in the place. Of course, I'm running mad trying to keep up (lost 20 lbs over 8 weeks at this point...which isn't a bad thing! and just had knee surgery due to pre-patellar bursitis which was completely unexpected) but I'm starting to see the point in the project when it's just me getting things done and then the subs come back for their final. The pressure will still be high but not nearly as high as trying to coordinate the framing, roofing, waterproofing, etc.... in the middle of monsoon season here!

Sorry as I think I rambled! Bottom line is to do your homework, make sure everything you want is clearly spelled out, have a good schedule and communicate more than you think you need to. Subs don't like surprises so keep the gotchas to a minimum.

Regarding your price from your general of cost plus 10%, that's not bad at all. In fact I find it very low so that may be your best bet. Oh, one last item then I'll go. Get lien releases from all your subs suppliers or ask for receipts for their materials (or you buy them yourself). Otherwise, if they don't pay their bills, the supplier can come after you for payment.

Ok, fingers are tired and I need to go order some insulation and install some windows!
Cheers,
cc
 

Angelfire

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 22, 2012
Messages
1,367
Location
New Mexico and Ireland
Ok so what's left? Insulate, drywall, paint, millwork.

yup. Plus flooring (wood floors and saltillo), fireplace, networking, windows, garage door, tile, No paint per se as I'm doing plaster on the walls and stain on the T&G/exposed vigas/beams, all the demo, etc...plenty for a one man gang trying to keep up with the subs. Additionally, I have worked closely enough with them that I've been able to add some things to their permits that I've actually done the work for (additional waterproofing at the parapets, fireplace, etc...).

I should add I'm still working 60 hour work weeks at my "other" job, keeping up with the family, and working with one bad knee (surgery last week). So yeah, those items above are plenty to keep me from getting ahead of the subs!
 
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