Beacon Morris 45k install - Vertical Vent and Switch

[guenth26]

Been looking around the forums for the past several months, planning my install for my 45k Beacon Morris. Some great information that has helped substantially, so first off, thanks to those who post and answer questions.

I have a few questions related to my install:

I will be vertically venting my unit with Amerivent B vent piping. I've read the provided manual and a few other manufacturer manuals such as Modine regarding the connections. The Beacon Morris (Mestek) manual states on page 18, "Use as few elbows as possible. Minimum horizontal run of 2 feet is required between the unit's flue vent and the first elbow used.". Most photos I've seen on the forum do not follow this recommendation. This statement also moves the unit away from my back wall of substantially for this added horizontal run. The Modine manual says "12 inches min recommended". For those that used Amerivent B vent piping, what are the connection(s) used to the flue vent on the unit? Amerivent makes a universal male and female adapter. Are either of these the correct piece to use between the flue vent of the unit and my Tee vent? I assume the Tee vent connected right to the flue vent is not correct. Lastly, I purchased a vent cap for the bottom of the tee vent. Other than a snug fit, does this require crimping, taping, silicone-ing in place?

My second set of questions is in regard to the electrical side. I have run a dedicated 15amp circuit for the unit. My junction box is in my attic ceiling, just above the unit. I will be using armored cable from the attic to the unit and would prefer the switch mounted on the unit itself. Any reason this cannot be done as shown in the below photo?

 

[guenth26]

Stopped at Menard's this evening and found the draft hood connector which is single wall aluminum which converts to double wall b vent. I assume this is the piece needed to transition from the single wall on the unit to double wall b vent material? The single wall aluminum piece is rather flimsy and I'm concerned that three SS screws will not hold? I found a previous GJ post (link below) with someone with the same concern. Any input on this?

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=240182

Also, with the added draft hood connector, there is now 8" of horizontal run, will this be adequate, or should I consider adding more of a horizontal run before the first elbow?

 

[D45]

My Duravent kit called for a 12" minimum run before an elbow

I used the draft hood and then a b-vent eblow.........gave me just enough room

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325943&page=8

 

[guenth26]

D45, thanks for the response. Any reason you went with an elbow versus a Tee as suggested?

 

[D45]

I was told a cleanout t isn't really needed on these, as they burn pretty clean

The adjustable elbow worked better also

Why do you need a T, local code require it? Does your heater manual call for it?

You shouldn't be needing to clean soot from a natural gas power vented stack (one purpose for it), but another would be to stop condensation from dripping back into the heat exchanger.

If you use the unit in a way that ensures you burn off all condensation (you should), I'd say the T isn't needed

 

[finn]

I️ have two of the BM units in different buildings.

One has a straight shot out the wall, but the second one has an ‘s’ curve out the rear, made with elbows, because of building door layout and utility location constraints. They both work well, but the one with the jog in the exhaust makes noise on startup, while the one with the correct, straight exit is relatively quiet.

Both are 75k units.

If I had a do over, I ‘d figure out a way to eliminate the jog.

It’s on my list...

 

[Showkey]

On my old unit the tee connection was the first part to rust out. It was new to me and during the purchase inspection it was notes as bad. Your literally could push you finger through the side of the pipe. It was professional install, maybe 10-15 years old, use by prior owners unknown. This was B vent out the side of the building. The B vent pipe was ok it was the connector and the tee that was really bad.

I later replaced the pipe and year or two later the unit had a control board failure. Replaced the unit as the board was fried and my cost for the board was 30% of the new unit cost. The unit was rusty and closer inspection of the induction blower area showed severe rust. They sell a kit to repair the unit but in my case it was judged not to be a good investment.

 

[finn]

That’s why some manufacturers recommended running these heaters above some minimum room temperature, and specifically say to not use a low temperature thermostat.

Min recommend temp is 50 degrees on the BM units I have.

 

[Showkey]

Agree...........my use is minimum temp is 50* the replacement heater is a BM.

 

[guenth26]

Why do you need a T, local code require it? Does your heater manual call for it?

My BM manual has the Tee on the drawings but doesn't not specifically state that it is required.

 

[guenth26]

I assume the purpose of the Tee is to catch condensation. If that is correct, why do they recommend the horizontal run from the unit to the Tee be ran up hill? couldn't this allow condensation to run back to the unit?