Beacon Morris BRT045 Installation Finished

[byalegend]

Beacon Morris BRT045 Installation Finished (Video Included)

I've been a lurker here for a few years, and I thought I'd post video of my installation of a Beacon Morris BRT045 heater. This forum was very helpful in compiling information to complete the installation.

Video 1 of 3:

Video 2 of 3:

Video 3 of 3:

Playlist - Beacon Morris Garage Heater Installation: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLPMuWagkDfQj7xzuN0-lTGzKhnJoFQXf2

Thanks.

Edit: I'm updating this post with pricing info for major expenses:

- Beacon Morris BRT045 heater: $499 + about $50 shipping @ Menard's
- Concentric vent kit (AS-X7-4): $217 @ littlegreenhouse.com (free shipping and orange gaskets included)
- 4" special gas pipe kit incl. UL 1738: $165 @ littlegreenhouse.com <-- bought additional pieces - see video 2 for further explanation
- Malco C5R crimpers: $35 @ Home Depot
- Single-wall vent roof flashing and storm collar (Flashing - GV1386): $30 on eBay - ended up using a storm collar I found at a local hardware store
- Gas line installation: $20/linear foot x 30 ft = $600 (after watching the plumber, would probably do myself if I had to do it again and if DIY is allowed in my area)
- Electrical wiring and conduit: Approx $125 for tools and materials ($40 for conduit bender)
- Thermostat (Lux TX9600TS - touch screen and programmable): $30 used on Amazon
- Mechanical and electrical permits: Approx $125
==============
Approx. total incl. misc: $2000

 

[SuperD]

good video, thanks for posting!

 

[byalegend]

Some pics

 

[byalegend]

good video, thanks for posting!

Thanks

 

[ForceFed70]

Sealed combustion - cool!

Looks like a great install. Only thing I can pick at is that I don't think your drip leg is to code. The gas is supposed to change direction at the leg - not just flow past if that makes sense.

Should be an easy fix for you as you are using flex pipe to make the heater connection. Just need to add a 90* fitting pointing down before the T.

 

[ForceFed70]

Wait a moment - what's that gas tubing leading up to the shutoff valve? I had thought it was black iron, but upon closer inspection it appears to be some sort of a flexible tubing. It almost looks like hydraulic hose?

Are you sure that's an appropriate and approved material? I've never seen anything like it that would make it past an inspector.

 

[byalegend]

Wait a moment - what's that gas tubing leading up to the shutoff valve? I had thought it was black iron, but upon closer inspection it appears to be some sort of a flexible tubing. It almost looks like hydraulic hose?

Are you sure that's an appropriate and approved material? I've never seen anything like it that would make it past an inspector.

The local inspector signed off on the gas piping. A professional plumber performed the gas installation (I don't mess with gas [emoji2]). The black gas line is flexible, and it's apparently an approved alternative.


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[Dragfluid]

I was surprised to see that line, too. Wasn't aware that there was such a thing allowed.
https://www.centralstateshose.com/Propane-and-natural-gas_c_62.html

 

[ForceFed70]

I was surprised to see that line, too. Wasn't aware that there was such a thing allowed.
https://www.centralstateshose.com/Propane-and-natural-gas_c_62.html

Big disclaimer on that hose "Outdoor use only"

 

[byalegend]

Big disclaimer on that hose "Outdoor use only"

Yeah, I saw that. I'm going to check with the plumbing company.

 

[ForceFed70]

The local inspector signed off on the gas piping. A professional plumber performed the gas installation (I don't mess with gas [emoji2]). The black gas line is flexible, and it's apparently an approved alternative.


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Interesting. Learn something new every day. Would love to know more about the product as it would certainly be a lot easier to use.

Do you know the product - or would you be able to read the info printed on the hose?

 

[Dragfluid]

I didn't look that closely. There's a crapload of different products similar to that, there.

 

[ForceFed70]

I didn't look that closely. There's a crapload of different products similar to that, there.

Yes. If you get the time, let us know what labeling is on the hose itself. We should be able to find a spec sheet online with that information.

 

[byalegend]

Yes. If you get the time, let us know what labeling is on the hose itself. We should be able to find a spec sheet online with that information.

OK, thanks.

 

[Yourfired]

Awesome product, very nice installation! I actually purchased a smaller one online from Canarsee supply last year and have been using it to keep the tiles in my kitchen warm.

 

[byalegend]

Awesome product, very nice installation! I actually purchased a smaller one online from Canarsee supply last year and have been using it to keep the tiles in my kitchen warm.

Thanks. It's been nice to have a heater in the garage so I can work comfortably. The funny thing is that the temps in my area have been near 60 degrees the last few days.

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[bobmulry]

Hi,

Nice install.......

I do have one suggestion...........

It appears that the unistrut is attached to the overhead with some type of lag screw putting the screw threads in tension all of the time......

Unistrut makes some neat 90 degree brackets that bolt to the unistut on one end and allow you to drill through holes in the overhead beam using bolts, nuts and flat washers to carry the load in shear........

Or you could make your own............

If some is good, more is better and too much is just right........

Bob

 

[byalegend]

Hi,

Nice install.......

I do have one suggestion...........

It appears that the unistrut is attached to the overhead with some type of lag screw putting the screw threads in tension all of the time......

Unistrut makes some neat 90 degree brackets that bolt to the unistut on one end and allow you to drill through holes in the overhead beam using bolts, nuts and flat washers to carry the load in shear........

Or you could make your own............

If some is good, more is better and too much is just right........

Bob

Hmm, OK. I might check into those brackets. I'd thought about using Unistrut U-bolts, but the lag screws seemed to hold extremely well.

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[rferoni]

byalegend,

Great job! I just bought this same heater and am getting ready to install it. If you don't mind, how much did the concentric venting cost including all piping? Did you purchase online? I had planned on doing concentric venting thru the sidewall but mis-researched the cost! I thought it was going to cost around $230 but it looks like its going to cost around $400. I may just run two pipes thru the sidewall. Apparently there was a recent change in the code so now the pipe needs to be stainless.

Thank you for any information.
Ron

 

[byalegend]

byalegend,

Great job! I just bought this same heater and am getting ready to install it. If you don't mind, how much did the concentric venting cost including all piping? Did you purchase online? I had planned on doing concentric venting thru the sidewall but mis-researched the cost! I thought it was going to cost around $230 but it looks like its going to cost around $400. I may just run two pipes thru the sidewall. Apparently there was a recent change in the code so now the pipe needs to be stainless.

Thank you for any information.
Ron

Thanks. I bought the kit from littlegreenhouse.com for $217, since their kits include the orange gaskets and they offer free shipping (the kit is for the Sterling GG heater, but the Beacon Morris is identical). Like I mentioned in video 2, the pipe kit is sold separately at littlegreenhouse.com and includes UL 1738 special gas pipe. The pipe kit was $165. There are a couple other mentions in that video you might find helpful. Two pipes through the sidewall won't meet code if you plan on having it inspected.

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[CNGsaves]

That's nice heater and separated combustion is even better.

2 problems:
. . . . a) Improper flexible black gas line (presume that is rubber) ??
(replace with black pipe steel to within 3 ft from heater, then flex pipe)
. . . . b) Drip leg done incorrectly as gas flow should have a 90 degree turn

What is plan for garage overall ?? Install ceiling ?? Insulation ??

Does the roof have vents like gable vents, ridge vents, etc ?? If so you'll just be trying to heat the environment as well !!

 

[byalegend]

That's nice heater and separated combustion is even better.

2 problems:
. . . . a) Improper flexible black gas line (presume that is rubber) ??
(replace with black pipe steel to within 3 ft from heater, then flex pipe)
. . . . b) Drip leg done incorrectly as gas flow should have a 90 degree turn

What is plan for garage overall ?? Install ceiling ?? Insulation ??

Does the roof have vents like gable vents, ridge vents, etc ?? If so you'll just be trying to heat the environment as well !!

I'm starting to wonder about my professional gas installation and why the inspector found no issues. The company I chose was highly recommended on Angie's List. The roof will be replaced in a couple years, so I planned on having ridge vents added at that point then I'll also install foam baffles and new insulation; the ceiling will remain open.

I've attached a pic of the black flexible gas pipe. The part number appears to be PMG-1066: http://www.gastite.com/us/technical-resources/code-approvals.html. The pipe seems to be CSST, which I thought was allowed for substantial lengths in residences. Dunno. I'm going to add a 90 and flip the tee this weekend to have a proper drip leg.


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[CKS1955]

Great video of the process. Just a couple corrections to the gas line as mentioned above.

Of note when installing insulation, the Kraft face should be covered, I believe it is highly flammable.

Jay

 

[Alan Grudzinski]

Great video showing all of the parts used in your install!

 

[rohartman]

Great videos, I'm in the process of installing my Beacon Morris heater. What is the advantage of the external intake?

Thanks O

 

[byalegend]

Great videos, I'm in the process of installing my Beacon Morris heater. What is the advantage of the external intake?

Thanks O

It helps to lengthen the heater's life by drawing in fresh air instead of contaminated air from the garage (e.g. saw dust, chemicals, etc). Also, the air that gets sucked into the heater is warmed slightly by the heat from the flue before reaching the heater. That's about the extent of my knowledge. There are probably other benefits of which I'm unaware.

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[manwithtools]

I'm starting to wonder about my professional gas installation and why the inspector found no issues. The company I chose was highly recommended on Angie's List. The roof will be replaced in a couple years, so I planned on having ridge vents added at that point then I'll also install foam baffles and new insulation; the ceiling will remain open.

I've attached a pic of the black flexible gas pipe. The part number appears to be PMG-1066: http://www.gastite.com/us/technical-resources/code-approvals.html. The pipe seems to be CSST, which I thought was allowed for substantial lengths in residences. Dunno. I'm going to add a 90 and flip the tee this weekend to have a proper drip leg.


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Yep, that is FlashShield CSST, my research indicates that should be fine for use indoors and when it's properly bonded (for lightning strikes) it should be good for outside use too. The outer black covering is apparently conductive which adds to the stability of the product. Do some research and see what it turns up for you.

Many schools of thought regarding it's overall suitability. I'm on the fence at this point. I talked to my local LP vendor yesterday and they indicated that copper outside (1/2") and iron (1/2") inside would be fine by them.

My installation is simple enough that I think I'll use the copper / iron combo.

 

[CKS1955]

It helps to lengthen the heater's life by drawing in fresh air instead of contaminated air from the garage (e.g. saw dust, chemicals, etc). Also, the air that gets sucked into the heater is warmed slightly by the heat from the flue before reaching the heater. That's about the extent of my knowledge. There are probably other benefits of which I'm unaware.

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Plus the air used by combustion has already been conditioned but gets dumped outside. The air used by combustion has to be replaced by unconditioned air that finds its way into the building envelope via gaps, etc. So theoretical by using air from outside the building improves the efficiency.

Jay

 

[byalegend]

Yep, that is FlashShield CSST, my research indicates that should be fine for use indoors and when it's properly bonded (for lightning strikes) it should be good for outside use too. The outer black covering is apparently conductive which adds to the stability of the product. Do some research and see what it turns up for you.

Many schools of thought regarding it's overall suitability. I'm on the fence at this point. I talked to my local LP vendor yesterday and they indicated that copper outside (1/2") and iron (1/2") inside would be fine by them.

My installation is simple enough that I think I'll use the copper / iron combo.

Yes, it is Gastite FlashShield CSST, not rubber tubing. The plumber mentioned that it's suitable for indoor and outdoor use. It's good to know that only the drip leg needs to be corrected.

 

[vicegripbloodblister]

Same heater just put in my garage and it works good. I went horizontal with concentric vent and believe the separated combustion is money well spent. It's quiet and warms the garage quickly. Very nice install and and enjoy your new heater !!!

 

[byalegend]

Same heater just put in my garage and it works good. I went horizontal with concentric vent and believe the separated combustion is money well spent. It's quiet and warms the garage quickly. Very nice install and and enjoy your new heater !!!

Thanks. Yes, the garage warms up very quickly. I just read through your installation thread - nice. I was a little nervous about venting vertically, but I didn't have much choice. It seems to have turned out fine.

 

[CNGsaves]

Good to hear that you've determined gas line is CSST that will serve it's purpose IF properly bonded and kept from getting wet/rusty or damaged. Since you already had black pipe steel in the garage for hot water tank, I would have just extended with black pipe steel. BPS would flow better since it has larger inside diameter than csst as csst has corrugations that slow down flow. Also BPS is obviously stronger, thus safer.

Sorry I hadn't watched all videos when I posted so now I see that you've got insulation on all the upper rafter spaces of the ceiling.

Really do LIKE those Sterling Garage Guy/Menards Beacon Morris heaters with the separated combustion with that concentric vent kit. Buying it through the LittleGreenHouse website is great idea to get great price and all the components.

Looks like you had watched this YouTube which also shows all the benefits of separated combustion and concentric vent kit:

Great job of talking through all the details/part numbers/etc in your videos. These are some of BEST videos I've seen so kudo's on a great job !!

Enjoy the heater.

 

[byalegend]

Good to hear that you've determined gas line is CSST that will serve it's purpose IF properly bonded and kept from getting wet/rusty or damaged. Since you already had black pipe steel in the garage for hot water tank, I would have just extended with black pipe steel. BPS would flow better since it has larger inside diameter than csst as csst has corrugations that slow down flow. Also BPS is obviously stronger, thus safer.



Sorry I hadn't watched all videos when I posted so now I see that you've got insulation on all the upper rafter spaces of the ceiling.



Really do LIKE those Sterling Garage Guy/Menards Beacon Morris heaters with the separated combustion with that concentric vent kit. [emoji106] Buying it through the LittleGreenHouse website is great idea to get great price and all the components.



Looks like you had watched this YouTube which also shows all the benefits of separated combustion and concentric vent kit:

Great job of talking through all the details/part numbers/etc in your videos. These are some of BEST videos I've seen so kudo's on a great job !! [emoji106]



Enjoy the heater. [emoji481]

Thanks for the compliments. I did a ton of research (Beacon Morris tech support probably got tired of my calls ), and I know it can be frustrating for novices like myself when seemingly minor details are left out of project videos. So, I tried to do the videos from a novice's perspective without making them lengthy.

Yeah, if I were doing the gas installation myself knowing what I know now, I probably would use black steel. I relied on the plumber's expertise for this one, but I probably should have asked more questions. It still works great as-is.

 

[byalegend]

Gastite FlashShield CSST:

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[byalegend]

I fixed the drip leg today. I even got up the courage to replace a couple 40-year-old valves, where the plumber discovered a leak in one of them during his testing - checked for leaks and all is good. Thanks, everyone.


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[CNGsaves]

^ ^ ^ Above 2 pic attachments no worky.

 

[byalegend]

^ ^ ^ Above 2 pic attachments no worky.

Fixed

 

[phos]

Great video. I recently referenced it several times while installing my sterling gg 75btu heater with concentric vent kit. I put it on my building which is a 36x48. The ceiling height from concrete is 11 feet 7 inches. The concrete is insulated underneath with foam and on the sides. All walls are R19 and R40 in the ceiling. I have 4 windows in there, 3 overhead doors of which two of them are 12x10's and the third is 8x8. The overhead doors are R16.5 and all have windows in them. It's currently well below zero and the heater runs for about 8 or 9 minutes and then will turn off for 20 minutes before running again. I keep it at 60 degrees.. So here's my question...

On the back of the sterling heater where the thermostat wires connect there is a W1, W2, G, and R terminal. If I connect a cheap thermostat and use the R, G, and W1 to the thermostat it works as expected. However, I want a wireless "smart" thermostat that I can control remotely but there is no "C" terminal. Does this heater not support one of these fancy wifi thermostats?

Thanks!

 

[dfiler2]

On the back of the sterling heater where the thermostat wires connect there is a W1, W2, G, and R terminal. If I connect a cheap thermostat and use the R, G, and W1 to the thermostat it works as expected. However, I want a wireless "smart" thermostat that I can control remotely but there is no "C" terminal. Does this heater not support one of these fancy wifi thermostats?

Thanks!

I just did this with a 75,000 BTU unit, if you look at the top of the control board you'll see a "c" terminal with nothing connected, I ran a wire from there to "W2" which was not connected on mine. I have a Honeywell WIFI thermostat and it works fine. The "C" terminal is just a return path for the current, a little like having a neutral with 120v.

 

[byalegend]

I just did this with a 75,000 BTU unit, if you look at the top of the control board you'll see a "c" terminal with nothing connected, I ran a wire from there to "W2" which was not connected on mine. I have a Honeywell WIFI thermostat and it works fine. The "C" terminal is just a return path for the current, a little like having a neutral with 120v.

Good to know. I thought about installing a WiFi thermostat, but I thought it was overkill in my situation.

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