Beacon Morris NG heater venting

[truckermatt]

Hello, I have a few questions about venting my heater horizontally.

I know i need cat III stainless singlewall vent tube. I am wondering about the thimble for the through wall. on the outside I have Vinyl siding. Do i cut the siding a j trim around the 12"x12" stainless square, or can the siding for right on top of the thimble only exposing the pipe.

Here is the thimble i can get:

Which can I do?

View media item 6003
OR

or this

Lastly in the wall cavity with the thimble, how close does insulation go.

Thanks, Matt

 

[joelw23]

are you using the concentric vent kit or just going out with the 4" stainless class III?

if you are using the concentric kit, where did you find the 7" thimble?

 

[truckermatt]

I am not using the concentric kit. Just going through the wall with stainless.

 

[joelw23]

then you for sure need the thimble...

 

[truckermatt]

I know I need the thimble but I am wondering how close I can attach the vinyl siding to the outside. The pictures I posted show several ways of doing it. Don't know which is best.

 

[Movover]

I was the understanding that you would leave the metal exposed with the thimble and run the vinyl J right along the edge and caulk .. or that at least how I have done all my penetrations

 

[truckermatt]

I was thinking that was the correct way also.

 

[CKS1955]

This is pictures of my Brut (aka Beacon Morris, Sterling made by Mestek Inc.) heater, maybe they will be of assistance.

Jay








Sorry about how dark the pictures are, they were taken at night.

 

[truckermatt]

Thanks for the picture. What did you do for the outside trim against the siding?
Is that the mfg concentric vent kit ? Do you feel it's worth it ?

 

[CKS1955]

Thanks for the picture. What did you do for the outside trim against the siding?
Is that the mfg concentric vent kit ? Do you feel it's worth it ?

It is the mfg. combustion air inlet kit. I do feel it is worth the investment, without it you are using indoor heated air for combustion and then venting it outside. This air has to be replaced with unconditioned air that finds its way into your shop and then be heated. It increases the efficiency of the unit because it use outside air for the combustion chamber. If you do any spray painting or work with other chemicals the combustion air inlet kit keeps this stuff out of the burner.

I made a square trim piece out metal that is similar to a direct vent fireplace. I attached another picture.

Jay

 

[truckermatt]

Where did you buy the vent kit? The ones I see say for propane units. I don't know if it would make a difference

 

[CKS1955]

Where did you buy the vent kit? The ones I see say for propane units. I don't know if it would make a difference

http://www.menards.com/main/p-1444424895744.htm

or

http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/heaters4.shtml

Jay

 

[truckermatt]

Thanks

 

[Alan Grudzinski]

I will be installing a similar heater in the next month or so also. I plan on using the concentric venting kit.

Jay

I have seen from your posts that you installed a 30K BTU unit. I am debating a 30 or a 45. What is the sqft of your garage? Do you feel the 30K is sufficient to keep it warm? I have an insulated 400sqft space.

Currently the 45K is stocked at Menards and is about 70 bucks cheaper than the special order 30K. Also, the 30K would be a bit quieter since it has a smaller blower.

How loud is your 30K unit?

Thanks

 

[CKS1955]

Jay

I have seen from your posts that you installed a 30K BTU unit. I am debating a 30 or a 45. What is the sqft of your garage? Do you feel the 30K is sufficient to keep it warm? I have an insulated 400sqft space.

Currently the 45K is stocked at Menards and is about 70 bucks cheaper than the special order 30K. Also, the 30K would be a bit quieter since it has a smaller blower.

How loud is your 30K unit?

Thanks

Alan,
My shop is about the same size as yours. My insulation is about an R-49 in the attic and R-13 in the walls. The unit is rather quiet in my opinion, I do use a ceiling fan (in winter rotation mode) to circulate the heat down.

I was thinking about the 45K unit as well, but after communication with Anthony in tech support I went with 30k. Here is a quote from his email:

I don’t have any idea as to how many btu’s your garage needs, I just hope that the 45 isn’t too big or you will short cycle the unit and condensation will occur. Condensation will rot out any metal it touches and will void warranty.

So based on the above tech statment and sizing calculator I went with the a 30K and have been happy. Except for a problem chosing a digital thermostat, ended up replacing the thermostat with a mechinical one. Here is a link to that issue: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281213

Here are some calculators:
Propane gas heater size calculator: http://www.ultimategarageheater.com/propane-garage-heater/search.php

Natural gas heater size calculator: http://www.ultimategarageheater.com/natural-gas-garage-heater/search.php

Energy cost calculator:
http://www.ultimategarageheater.com/garage-heater-energy-cost-calculator.php

Based on the above calculators and the temperature rise your are looking for, you probably need somewhere between 14,000 to 19,000 BTU's.

Jay

 

[Alan Grudzinski]

Thanks so much for the info.
I think I will go with the 30k.

I have a few other questions for you if you don't mind. I'll send a PM instead of further hijacking this thread.