I have an old 70's CASC Gt3 car that I am slowly working on. It was a total junk pile when I got it. Typical internet buy. I learned, anyway now for the problems. The car had a reputation for being fairly quick for its class, but from the history with the last owner, it averaged a motor exposition of some sort ever few races. The "race ready" engine that came in the car also had metal in the oil pan and was only run one race. The oil pan design was suspect and like most of the car it went into the dumpster. Now I have to start working on a pan that will hold oil around the pickup better. I have noticed a lot of older custom pan manufactures put deep V's into their products. I think it may stiffen things up a bit. Does anyone know about the dies? They look to not be made with a round bead form. Just wondering if anyone has a set to take a picture of.
Bead Roller Dies for Oil Pan reinforcement.
- Thread starter Don-F
- Start date
cvairwerks
Well-known member
You are either going to have to build a custom, ultra deep roller or do a welded up pan. Most rollers won’t accommodate a pan more than about 2” deep.
I have a lathe, I can make the rollers. I liked the bead and it does look like its custom, I looked all the usual places for a die. I was just checking if I missed some source.. There was more than one company that made their pans with deep beads like this. So maybe there was a source in the past.
Yes the metal would have to be rolled flat. That's a given.
Yes the metal would have to be rolled flat. That's a given.
metlmunchr
Well-known member
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- Sep 10, 2011
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- 1,279
Those Vs are formed in a press or press brake with a combination V and flattening die. The upper die looks like --v-- and the lower die is a mirror image of the upper. Its a bottoming die set as opposed to the more common air bending dies. A die set like this is common in metalworking shops as it can form the V while maintaining the flatness of the sheet, and is much faster and cleaner than roll forming deep stiffening ribs.
A bead roller would have to be capable of handling dies of substantially larger diameter than the common dies which are normally 2" diameter. Because you couldn't form the V and flatten the sheet in a single pass, you'd run into problems with interference as the V is formed but before the dies are closed to the point where the sides are flattened.
A bead roller would have to be capable of handling dies of substantially larger diameter than the common dies which are normally 2" diameter. Because you couldn't form the V and flatten the sheet in a single pass, you'd run into problems with interference as the V is formed but before the dies are closed to the point where the sides are flattened.
is the oil moving away from the pickup as the car accelerates?
I saw something on Roadkill recently where the oil pan had a swinging baffle that would let oil flow towards the pickup but if the oil was forced away from the pickup area the door would swing and keep the oil in the area of the sump/oil pickup
I guess other than that a dry sump system would be needed.
I saw something on Roadkill recently where the oil pan had a swinging baffle that would let oil flow towards the pickup but if the oil was forced away from the pickup area the door would swing and keep the oil in the area of the sump/oil pickup
I guess other than that a dry sump system would be needed.
Cornering G's not acceleration causes oil starvation. Yes the baffles and trap doors are very simple. I already started the design process with some scissors and card stock. Once its all good, the pattern can be transferred to sheet metal.
Oil starvation can be caused by acceleration, cornering, and deceleration G forces (or all 3) depending on the oil pan design. Such G forces can also disrupt wet sump oil supply not only in the pan, but in the upper engine due to UE oil return issues. And, as Neggy says, a dry sump system is sometimes the best, if not the only, option.
Sort of hard to starve an engine under acceleration with 120 wheel hp. For the dry sump, you have to look at class rules, in this case dry sump is not allowed. Vintage is more restricted than normal class racing. I even had to remove the Electromotive DIS ignition and put in a distributor.
... in your 120 hp car. Deceleration could still be prob tho. Good luck with race car!
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Packard V8
Well-known member
I've only been doing this for sixty years, but I still haven't learned how to build an oil pan better and less expensively than the professionals. Plus, theirs look sweet right out of the box and my welds require hours of grinding and filling. Unless one is a TIG pro, that many feet of weld is probably going to have pinholes. Your results may vary.
jack vines
jack vines
I will double check the welds. The problem is the "professionals" only do the popular applications. So I guess I will have to wing it. I built a similar pan about 20 years ago that didn't leak. Hope I remember how to tig weld without making holes
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