Anyone here own one? Looking for some feedback. Want to purchase the xb452 just for basic tpms and bead surface repair. I really like the the compact size but how well does it work especially with beads stuck to the rims? What has me concerned is the ram travel is just under 1.5". Is that enough for tires 33 to 35"? The 500 series has a travel over 2.5" but is costly and the xb452 has the longer arm which looks necessary for many wheels. If anyone here has used one please let me know your thoughts. Thank you.
Beadbuster
- Thread starter Turbo1002
- Start date
b-dog
Well-known member
I haven't used one like that but I have an ESCO slide hammer that works (albeit a workout) on 44s.
jonesg
Well-known member
when my bead breaker doesn't work I put a hydraulic jack between the tow hitch and the tire, then just lower the weight of the car on it.
It always works.
It always works.
I have tried the bottle jack method. All it did was raise the truck up until the bottle jack was maxed out. Even jumped on the trucks bumper to help out. The bead still would not break free. Some of these youtube videos have to be staged.
csp
Well-known member
If you have a floor jack and a ratchet strap, you have a bead breaker.
Michael_in_DE
Well-known member
I thought everybody just drove over the tire with your truck.
fourjeepin
Well-known member
I use my hi-lift under the front bumper of my CJ. Works everytime.
msharley
Well-known member
When they made real cars...with bumper jacks. That MEN used to STAND UP straight to jack the car up....
I broke the beads on any number of HD wheels with a bumper jack on the front bumper of the Olds 98. (or Caprice or Fury...even did a few with the LTD Wagon...)
Two short pieces of 4x4 to keep the sprocket/brake drum/rotor off the ground.
For those that don't know? The HD wheel has a "safety seat"....to hold the tire on the wheel/rim in case of a blow out..
Regular passenger tires were a piece of cake...
The '72 Coupe De Ville....even changed a tire on my Super Glide...with just the rear bumper...(tail end of Men's Cars was much lighter than the front end)
Of course...with today's yuppy cars...you get some flimsy piece of **** impersonating a jack....and need to slither around on your hands & knees (just like the yuppy what designed the fool car)...
I broke the beads on any number of HD wheels with a bumper jack on the front bumper of the Olds 98. (or Caprice or Fury...even did a few with the LTD Wagon...)
Two short pieces of 4x4 to keep the sprocket/brake drum/rotor off the ground.
For those that don't know? The HD wheel has a "safety seat"....to hold the tire on the wheel/rim in case of a blow out..
Regular passenger tires were a piece of cake...
The '72 Coupe De Ville....even changed a tire on my Super Glide...with just the rear bumper...(tail end of Men's Cars was much lighter than the front end)
Of course...with today's yuppy cars...you get some flimsy piece of **** impersonating a jack....and need to slither around on your hands & knees (just like the yuppy what designed the fool car)...
Daytonaer
Well-known member
I was gifted one of these, I believe the 452 with extra parts.
I have used it specifically to swap tpms’s.
It is fidddly but works. I need to move it around, apply pressure etc: logically one size doesn’t fit all wheels and beads can get really stuck. I use it with a battery 3/8 impact, not sure how the leverage of a wrench would twist/ displace, but the screw does not love the impact.
You can damage your wheels if you are not careful, and I doubt it would hold up to heavy use.
But I have used it on alloy wheels, some 14” , some 17”.
The arm size for me mattered more on wheel shape. I added bead lube and wood wedge blocks and moved the tool around a bit.
It is easy to store vs a freestanding lever type.
It is way more compact vs harbor freights recent offering.
If this link works, https://www.google.com/url?q=https:...IQFnoECAIQAg&usg=AOvVaw3I-xdQ4ylAYy2bcLDfpcZD I prefer this style manual bead breaker but the little tool will work.
Daytonaer
Well-known member
About the ram/arm size...
It will depend on your wheel.
The arm grabs/pinches the inside of the wheel, if the drum of the wheel is exposed through big spoke gaps you shouldn’t have any problems with the longer arm. I had a small wheel with small spoke clearances and I think I just pinched the rim with the smaller arm, it wants to cam/tilt the tool but you can muscle it in place and hold it.
About running out of stroke: this is what I ran into needing to “move around” I bottomed the tool, jammed a wood wedge block in then moved the tool a few inches further away from gap created. Rinse and repeat. If it had a longer stroke on that set of wheels it probably could have pushed the bead off quicker, but again it can be made to work, just fiddly.
It will depend on your wheel.
The arm grabs/pinches the inside of the wheel, if the drum of the wheel is exposed through big spoke gaps you shouldn’t have any problems with the longer arm. I had a small wheel with small spoke clearances and I think I just pinched the rim with the smaller arm, it wants to cam/tilt the tool but you can muscle it in place and hold it.
About running out of stroke: this is what I ran into needing to “move around” I bottomed the tool, jammed a wood wedge block in then moved the tool a few inches further away from gap created. Rinse and repeat. If it had a longer stroke on that set of wheels it probably could have pushed the bead off quicker, but again it can be made to work, just fiddly.
msharley
Well-known member
If? You ever see one of these?
Don't blink! Hit the BUY NOW Button!
You do need to bolt it to the floor...
I think? An outfit by the name of MAYS made them?
A "crow's foot" bar and a tubeless truck tire iron will round you out..along with a selection of spoons.
Don't blink! Hit the BUY NOW Button!
You do need to bolt it to the floor...
I think? An outfit by the name of MAYS made them?
A "crow's foot" bar and a tubeless truck tire iron will round you out..along with a selection of spoons.