Beam design for lifting/hanging

[JStash]

Hi,

Getting along on my 30x30 shop. I want to install a beam in the ceiling that I can use as a lifting point before blowing in insulation. I’ve done this before on a previous shop - I just spanned a few truss bottom chords with a 2x6 and dropped threaded rod through the ceiling. This worked, but I want to install something that’s a bit less sketchy and that can hold more weight. Hanging deer, supporting a 1T chain fall, ect.

I’ve seen other posts around people saying just get a gantry. That’s fine, I don’t wanna mess around with one, I’m set on a simple beam in the ceiling.

My question, looking for advice on design. The span will be about 12-14ft, supported on the double top plate of adjacent walls (45 to the trusses). I’m still thinking dropping some threaded rod through the ceiling, with a threaded eye hanging through the ceiling. Not sure the best way to attach this to a beam. Probably leaning towards double 2x8 for the beam.

Thanks in advance.

 

[CraigStu]

As a reference point, when we were working out building our current house the builder said the common span for standard 2x10s on 16" centers is 14'. In our previous house I build a small block ford engine in the basement. I lifted it off the stand w/ a 4 part block and pulley hung from a bolt in a hole in the middle of one of the first floor joists. I took 2 pieces of 1/8x1" flat steel about 8" long. Drilled 3/8" holes about an inch from each end. Steel on each side of the joist and a 3/8' bolt through all three.
Another 3/8" bolt through the steels at their bottom end gave me a place to hang pulleys. The engine weighed 375#

 

[tarmy]

I sorta did what you did. This 4x4 20’ beam is attached to the trusses above with custom brackets I made. Those brackets have all thread hung from them so I could drywall before mounting that beam. That also allowed me to ensure the beam is level for the winch trolley. You could do something like this in your new build to spears that load…

 

[PWC Repair]

A quick guesstimate looking at load tables would have me believe a #2 quality spruce/yellow pine spanned the way you say, should easily support 400-500 pounds. Doubled up makes that 800-1000 pounds.......allowing for a SAFETY factor, I would cut that in 1/2. I believe it would easily support 500 pounds and I wouldn't think twice about yanking a smallblock chevy with it. Your results may vary!!! To attach an eyebolt AND add strength at the same time, Get a piece of 3x3 steel channel around 4ft long. Place it over the top edge of the doubled 2x's. Drill and screw the channel over the wood. Run the eyebolt straight down the center and double or triple nut that sucker. That's how I would do it anyway.......

 

[JStash]

I sorta did what you did. This 4x4 20’ beam is attached to the trusses above with custom brackets I made. Those brackets have all thread hung from them so I could drywall before mounting that beam. That also allowed me to ensure the beam is level for the winch trolley. You could do something like this in your new build to spears that load…

Thanks for the reply. That's actually pretty cool. Have you had any concern with hanging that weight from the bottom chord of the trusses?

 

[CraigStu]

Above I described how I got the short block out of the basement. But it didn't get completed until in the next house. At that point I installed the heads, intake, carb etc. To lift it off the stand I laid a 4x4 across 3 trusses bottom cords. I put it against one of the diagonal supports.

I drilled through the 4x4 and the drywall on the ceiling so I could have an eyebolt just below the drywall. This let me lift the complete engine of about 500#. These were not storage rated trusses but it worked out fine.

 

[dcg9381]

A few houses back, I asked for the same thing. The builder installed an LVL that spanned the width of the garage. No upper floor or attic.

 

[Innovate1]

If you can position the lift point at the intersection of the truss diagonals that is the strongest point. If the trusses aren't build yet you could have them designed for the load. Don't recall what they are called but think of the truss at the start of a gable end extension - it carries the end load of all the main trusses - quite a bit more than 1T. I spanned several trusses at the bottom of the brace Vs with two 2x so I could drop a threaded rod through the ceiling if I ever need to lift stuff. Figure there is good safety margin for 600 lbs. Think of it this way - a 200 pound person can climb around on the truss without any issues or concern. If you span 5 trusses that's 1000 lbs. The trusses were also rated for some attic storage and I don't have any of that so some of that capacity can be used for the lifting eye.

 

[tarmy]

Thanks for the reply. That's actually pretty cool. Have you had any concern with hanging that weight from the bottom chord of the trusses?

Nope. That is a 32 span. When I had the shop/garage built years ago I had them design the trusses for a 200lbs PSF floor for the game room above. I also had them use a 16” OC design and had the bottom cord made 12” regardless. Maybe spent a grand more than traditional spec. The brackets I welded up go up and over each truss so that there was not large bolt holes carrying the weight. I have a 1 ton hoist and with that beam the load is spread out and doesn’t even make any creak or straining sound When using it.

 

[PWC Repair]

Check this out....simple pine 2x2 spanned about 2ft.....https://youtu.be/pqTfrkAU2Hs?si=6wD2_WhoW-v48Vu5

 

[sjvicker]

If I understand correctly you're looking to put the beam on your wall top plate of two adjacent walls and span 12-14' giving you a lifting point in the corner of your shop. If so, this is a pretty slick idea and solves the truss loading issue.

If you're going to go this far, why not go a little further? Get an I beam and pick up a trolley off of amazon so now you can move your load the span of the beam. Also, would probably be wise to ensure you have posts in your walls that connect from the foundation up to the top plate.

 

[wssix99]

I want to install something that’s a bit less sketchy and that can hold more weight. Hanging deer, supporting a 1T chain fall, ect.

If you can pocket the beam in the walls, why not put a steel beam in supported by posts inside the walls? If you want to hold 1T, you can do that but should probably spread the load across the floor at the post. (Just like a rolling gantry crane does.)

 

[JStash]

If you can position the lift point at the intersection of the truss diagonals that is the strongest point. If the trusses aren't build yet you could have them designed for the load. Don't recall what they are called but think of the truss at the start of a gable end extension - it carries the end load of all the main trusses - quite a bit more than 1T. I spanned several trusses at the bottom of the brace Vs with two 2x so I could drop a threaded rod through the ceiling if I ever need to lift stuff. Figure there is good safety margin for 600 lbs. Think of it this way - a 200 pound person can climb around on the truss without any issues or concern. If you span 5 trusses that's 1000 lbs. The trusses were also rated for some attic storage and I don't have any of that so some of that capacity can be used for the lifting eye.

I was leaning this way, just because I'm a little late on this design, metal ceiling is already on and spanning wall to wall is proving difficult. I'll need to build a beam out of shorter pieces tied together, likely 3ply.

Alternatively, the design of my roof puts the peak (and vertical truss ties) right where I'd like the hanging point. They are very solid when walking around up there. Another point, which I didn't mention, the peak of the roof is offset to one side because I have a 16X30 lean to incorporated into the structure. The overall structure is 46X30, 30X30 being enclosed.

 

[JStash]

If I understand correctly you're looking to put the beam on your wall top plate of two adjacent walls and span 12-14' giving you a lifting point in the corner of your shop. If so, this is a pretty slick idea and solves the truss loading issue.

If you're going to go this far, why not go a little further? Get an I beam and pick up a trolley off of amazon so now you can move your load the span of the beam. Also, would probably be wise to ensure you have posts in your walls that connect from the foundation up to the top plate.

Can you elaborate how I'd use an I-beam? The beam (2 or 3 ply 2x8) will be in the ceiling at a 45.

 

[wssix99]

Seems like a lot of trouble for something with an easy solution...

Hanging deer, supporting a 1T chain fall, ect.

Why can't your wife just hang your deer up in a tree out back and dress/butcher it for you?

If your roof is new and you must hang stuff inside, I would go see your truss supplier and see if you can get this answered by the truss engneers. If your roof is new, they should still have all the tools and calculations to give you a safe pathway here with real answers that won't compromise your building.

Keep in mind that overloading your roof isn't just about causing a roof failure. It can damage the walls also...

 

[john.k]

A long tie bolt to the apex of the truss would be my solution ........this loads the truss correctly for what its designed for .....roof load.........the bottom chord in plain bending ...no.

 

[JStash]

Seems like a lot of trouble for something with an easy solution...


Why can't your wife just hang your deer up in a tree out back and dress/butcher it for you?

If your roof is new and you must hang stuff inside, I would go see your truss supplier and see if you can get this answered by the truss engneers. If your roof is new, they should still have all the tools and calculations to give you a safe pathway here with real answers that won't compromise your building.

Keep in mind that overloading your roof isn't just about causing a roof failure. It can damage the walls also...

I’ll pass that onto the wife, good solution.

Supporting the beam on the walls was the idea to avoid messing with the trusses.

 

[nadogail]

Back in the day, I Googled Wallace Gantry hoists and found they listed the dimensions of their products.

 

[Innovate1]

Did I read correctly that the ceiling is up so you plan to make the beam out of pieces? No way to open a wall and slide in a one piece beam? I just ran the loading in WWPA program (good, free program BTW) for 14' span and 1000 lbs load in the center. It says you need two #1 Doug fir 2 x 10s to handle that load.

 

[JStash]

Did I read correctly that the ceiling is up so you plan to make the beam out of pieces? No way to open a wall and slide in a one piece beam? I just ran the loading in WWPA program (good, free program BTW) for 14' span and 1000 lbs load in the center. It says you need two #1 Doug fir 2 x 10s to handle that load.

That’s right. I’ll be working through the attic hatch because I didn’t plan ahead properly lol. It’s not also not like I’m trying to build a beam out of tiny pieces. I can get 12ft pieces up there. But will probably build a 3ply because of this.

Walls are still open. But I want the beam concealed in the ceiling.

 

[sjvicker]

Can you elaborate how I'd use an I-beam? The beam (2 or 3 ply 2x8) will be in the ceiling at a 45.

Weld a flat plate with 4 holes on each end and bolt that plate to your top plate. Use a roll around gantry crane design as an example to copy.