bearing fit help please

[Vintage Veloce]

Restoring my old drill press (future thread on that).

After taking out the bearings that hold the spindle in the quill, I found the fit of the outside race to the quill is relatively loose.
I'me sure these bearings are original, and it appears some kind of tape (probably brass) was used to shim the bearing. See the brass colored tape in the quill:
View media item 75635
So, when I put this back together, I'll need to shim it again. I have used Loctite 660 (quick metal) in the past, and haven't really been happy with the results.

I was considering trying to find some kind of metal tape again... does anyone have anything to suggest? I am concerned about galvanic corrosion or just having trouble removing the tape in the future. And I don't see any brass shim tape for sale.
But maybe something like 3M 3361 Stainless Steel Tape? I've read that is 3.8 mils thick, so it might work/help close the gap.
I also see copper tape available.
What's the best way to do this?

 

[LXCam]

Why don't you just order a bearing redi-sleeve. I think what you're seeing there is someone's attempt at the same thing. If you have the ability to measure the ID and OD you should be able to dial it right in.

https://www.fmmotorparts.com/fmstor.../National-Wear-Sleeve/p/RNTJ1118#.WePdNoZHaaM

https://www.timken.com/products/timken-mechanical-power-transmission-products/seals/redi-sleeves/

 

[Vintage Veloce]

Looking at those redi-sleeves and the like, they look too thick. Note I only need about .1mm of thickness, maybe .2mm.

 

[Whitworth]

Looks like the bearing may have spun in the quill ?

I’m thinking you could build up the area inside the quill with JB Weld and then carefully file it flush.

 

[LXCam]

Looking at those redi-sleeves and the like, they look too thick. Note I only need about .1mm of thickness, maybe .2mm.

You can get them pretty damn thin. Your best beat if you can't get it thin enough would be to hone it to the size you need. You might be amazed how much material a cheap $20 brake hone can clean up.

 

[larry_g]

Looking at those redi-sleeves and the like, they look too thick. Note I only need about .1mm of thickness, maybe .2mm.

Bearing fits are not a place to be guessing. If you don't have the tools to do the precision measuring, then find someone who does. You may have to enlarge the housing to fit one with a sleeve. Educate yourself on bearing sizes and fits.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[fnieto]

Green loc-tite is designed for this application as long as its not excessively loose.https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7415

 

[Mick56]

In the past, I have used a center punch and made a bunch of punch marks around the inside where the bearing will go. That will slightly raise the metal enough to give a snug fit, and then use Loctite.

 

[marinusdees]

My buddy who owns and runs his own motor repair shop uses the center punch method. He calls it "knurling". He also would use green Loc-tite (it's available on ebay). He has been in business for years, knows what works.
I must confess, I have copied him many times.
He's over 55. I'm 80.
PS center punch the outside of the outer bearing race as well as the inside of the housing.
With green Loc-tite, let it sit for 24 hours.

 

[Provincial]

I don't see how you can successfully center punch the outside of a hardened ball bearing race. It will either dull the punch or shatter.

 

[LXCam]

I don't see how you can successfully center punch the outside of a hardened ball bearing race. It will either dull the punch or shatter.

you can't do that to the bearing, you do it to the inside of the quill.

 

[Vintage Veloce]

No votes for the "as original" tape? ;-)
Really, how bad could it be... was good for 60 years...

 

[Fretters]

Just fit a thicker shim in there. Use the blades from a feeler gauge to find out what thickness suits best.

 

[Doug Arthurs]

The proper way to this is to bore and bush. Do you have anyone with a lathe you could go to? Maybe someone here that is close.

 

[claymont]

There's quite a selection on Ebay, fairly cheap too.
PRECISION-BRAND-.004-6X50 STAINLESS-SHIM-STOCK

I've used shimming and punching, either method works fairly well. When punching, I put a small bit of a metalized epoxy in the bore with the punches to give the bearing more surface area to seat against.

Restoring my old drill press (future thread on that).

After taking out the bearings that hold the spindle in the quill, I found the fit of the outside race to the quill is relatively loose.
I'me sure these bearings are original, and it appears some kind of tape (probably brass) was used to shim the bearing. See the brass colored tape in the quill:


So, when I put this back together, I'll need to shim it again. I have used Loctite 660 (quick metal) in the past, and haven't really been happy with the results.

I was considering trying to find some kind of metal tape again... does anyone have anything to suggest? I am concerned about galvanic corrosion or just having trouble removing the tape in the future. And I don't see any brass shim tape for sale.
But maybe something like 3M 3361 Stainless Steel Tape? I've read that is 3.8 mils thick, so it might work/help close the gap.
I also see copper tape available.
What's the best way to do this?

 

[Davefr]

Unless your repair is perfect, runout will be an issue. If this quill unobtainium?

Have you tried to find a replacement quill assembly on Ebay or OWWM BOYD forum.

A repair would be the absolute last resort IMHO. (Much more unforgiving then other bearing/shaft repairs.)

 

[Maui]

Someone may have replaced the bearings previously with as close a fit as they were able to get their hands on. What make and model is your drill press? Can you read the markings on the bearings and tell us what they are? There might be a proper drop in bearing size that will fit this quill without the need for shims.

Maui

 

[larry_g]

Just fit a thicker shim in there. Use the blades from a feeler gauge to find out what thickness suits best.

I have for many years used feeler gauges for shim stock kits. If your wanting to shim it again then feeler stock is available or get a cheap feeler gauge set and take out the blade you need.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[crguy]

The easiest thing to do is get another quill. Drill press parts by the hundreds on Ebay.

Not a lot of sense in doing another "farmer repair".

 

[Farmer J.]

I reckon that epoxy stuff is just the thing and ok for jobs like this, it's one of the rare wonders of the modern world! If you put a few dents in the metal first with a centre punch i holds even better.
No need to worry too much about perfectly centralising the shaft and preventing run out, drill bits always wobble a bit and seem find their own way eventually.
Lots of 'farmer repair' jobs get like this and they still manage to feed the world even sometimes using cranky old machines..

 

[2oolhound]

Someone may have replaced the bearings previously with as close a fit as they were able to get their hands on. What make and model is your drill press? Can you read the markings on the bearings and tell us what they are? There might be a proper drop in bearing size that will fit this quill without the need for shims.

Maui

I like this suggestion. A good bearing supplier will cross reference your bearing specs to find a comparable bearing with a slightly larger OD that fits. Failing that use some new shim stock.

 

[MShaw]

He is fitting the outer race of the bearing. No effect on runout. There will be a very small error in the alignment with the top bearing but nothing to worry about.

 

[JZiggy]

I've overhauled a number of vintage drill press quills and often find that some sleeve lock compound is necessary as the bearing fit is a bit too loose. The method seems to work just fine.

I like the ideas here about knurling the ID to create a bit of interference. I'd never thought of that one before.

You can get brass shim stock in all kind of thicknesses. I bet you could superglue a strip in like the "tape" on your current quill if you wanted to preserve that method.

 

[Vintage Veloce]

Great ideas guys, thanks. I think I will stick with a shim as that is original. Or possibly I'll go with some loctite 660... I'm testing that on another piece now.
The good part about the shim, is if it doesn't work well, it's easy to remove (and then try the next thing).

 

[454ragtop]

Probably should have said exactly what DP you're working on. Some brands, Walker Turner comes to mind, use proprietary bearings and work arounds have been developed.

 

[Provincial]

you can't do that to the bearing, you do it to the inside of the quill.

I was responding to post #9, next to last line.