Bearing seperator or gear puller

[Burt Shaver]

Hello folks, just looking for some more advice here on another tool purchase. I’m currently getting ready to change the front wheel bearing on my Mazda 2. I’m going to press the bearing out and I’m anticipating part of the inner race will stay on the hub, I’ve seen on videos where people score this race with a dremel and then break it with a cold chisel but I’m leaning more towards pressing this piece of race off so I have a few questions. I’m contemplating between a bearing seperator and a 2 fork gear puller. Do you guys think I can get a bearing seperator beneath the race? Will there be enough room for it? If I’m able to use the bearing seperator i was looking at a cheap set on amazon that included a 2” and a 3” for 43.95, it says it’s forged and heat treated but I haa as be my doubts, I’ve also seen other similar sets in same price range that say material is cr-v ( Chrome Vandium ) Is Chrome vandium ok for this tool? It says 5 ton, but again at that price range I am doubtful. I’m sure these bearing splitters will get the race off no problem as long as they can fit beneath but in the back o my mind I’m also thinking that I may want to use these splitters to rebuild a basic crankshaft, May never happen but I may want to give it a try. I found another single splitter on amazon for 91.72 by Jet which was also chrome vandium. Is Chrome vandium ok? Or should I be looking for something manufactured differently? Here are links

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07T49N6NY/?tag=atomicindus04-20

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06ZYGX7PR/?tag=atomicindus04-20

 

[Ricky Joe]

I’d have to see a picture of the race. I don’t know how you could get a separator under the race. I have always knocked them out from the other side with a long chisel. I’m sure I am misunderstanding something.

 

[vwpieces]

My VW's have the same issue where the inner race remains on hub. New hubs are under $20 though and I have found hubs do wear and possibly damaged from the bad bearing. I generally buy a new hub.
I have a 20T press and use that to do those jobs. I have rebuilt 30 pair or more VW spindles over the years.

You can score the race with a dremel cutoff disc and crack/split it with a chisel. No need to go too deep, cutting into hub.

IF I need to remove the inner race on the press I use a bearing separator to lock into the small notch. Clamping the tool makes it work.
I do not see any finger type puller working.

 

[Burt Shaver]

I’d have to see a picture of the race. I don’t know how you could get a separator under the race. I have always knocked them out from the other side with a long chisel. I’m sure I am misunderstanding something.

This is a hub off a Toyota but pretty much the same as the Mazda will be, from every video I’ve watched the inner part of the race usually always stays on the hub when pressing the hub out.

 

[Ricky Joe]

That style you can heat and it will fall off. If you don’t have a torch, weld a bead on it. If you don’t have a welder, use a chisel.

 

[vwpieces]

Also same as VW fronts. There are opposing slots cut into hub to help getting under the race on the VW's. It's not much but it helps.

 

[Burt Shaver]

My VW's have the same issue where the inner race remains on hub. New hubs are under $20 though and I have found hubs do wear and possibly damaged from the bad bearing. I generally buy a new hub.
I have a 20T press and use that to do those jobs. I have rebuilt 30 pair or more VW spindles over the years.

You can score the race with a dremel cutoff disc and crack/split it with a chisel. No need to go too deep, cutting into hub.

IF I need to remove the inner race on the press I use a bearing separator to lock into the small notch. Clamping the tool makes it work.
I do not see any finger type puller working.

I haven’t had it apart yet but the inner diameter of the bearing is 39mm (1.53”). The set contains a 2” and 3” seperator. Do you think the 2” seperator would be the right size for this? Also with future possible plans of rebuilding a crankshaft will these cheap 50.00 seperator kits do the job? Or should I be looking for a better set? I could pay more or pay the 50.00 and if it breaks then only lost 50.00 and if it holds up for me then

 

[Ricky Joe]

If Harbor Freight guarantees theirs, that would be the way to go. Then you aren’t out anything and can sell them when you want to. I have a prejudice against Asian tools, so prefer to pay more to get what is most likely only marginally better quality. Mine are New Britain, OTC, Snap-on, and Mac. OTC is now Asian made. You are probably fine with any of them. If the bolt bends, just get a new bolt.

 

[Burt Shaver]

If Harbor Freight guarantees theirs, that would be the way to go. Then you aren’t out anything and can sell them when you want to. I have a prejudice against Asian tools, so prefer to pay more to get what is most likely only marginally better quality. Mine are New Britain, OTC, Snap-on, and Mac. OTC is now Asian made. You are probably fine with any of them. If the bolt bends, just get a new bolt.

I probably wouldn’t be using the bolt to much, I was going to clamp the seperator around the race and use the press to push down on the hub, was thinking of doing the crankshaft the same way if If and when. Do you think these separators would stand up to that? I’m seeing one saying forged and another says chrome vandium which correct me if I’m wrong but that’s cast? Do you know how the more expensive ones are manufactured? I’m sure I will probably end up going with the cheap set for now, I will do a little more research first.

 

[vwpieces]

I have the Pitt one from HFT. The one with 2 separators in it. It should work for that size.
But I usually usemy one larger separator on the 20T press.
I have used the Pitt kit a lot for other bearings like motors etc. It has held up well. No issues with the screw etc. You may get chips on the thin ends of the separators but every separator I have used extensively has chips.

 

[whateg01]

Is it uses the double row bearings that the 626 uses, it might be a bear. Mine took 30T plus heat. And man, when it popped, it scared the bejeebus out of us even though we were expecting it. Popped 4 or 5 times before it was finally off enough to just press off quietly.

 

[Burt Shaver]

Is it uses the double row bearings that the 626 uses, it might be a bear. Mine took 30T plus heat. And man, when it popped, it scared the bejeebus out of us even though we were expecting it. Popped 4 or 5 times before it was finally off enough to just press off quietly.

I don’t know what a double row bearing is but this inner race that tends to stay on the hub shouldn’t be much of an issue, I’ve watched 3 or 4 videos and it doesn’t seem to be very difficult to get it off

 

[vwpieces]

One trick I have is to use the old bearing to press in the new. I gut the old bearing and slice a cut down the side. That way it will not bind in the housing/spindle, easy to remove after.
Some VW's need the backing plate unbolted and loose to get a separator in for removing the bearing from spindle. It is not possible to reinstall the backing plate if you happen to forget it and press on the hub. You just wasted a bearing if you forget. Oh, and Do not install the backing plate on backward. It will hit the rotor and again a do over and another bearing.

Lately I have been just blowing out the hub with an air hammer with a blunt hammer bit. It destroys the hub so a CV will ever fit again but it make short work, fast and easy compared to fiddling with the press or pullers. Removing bearing from spindle still requires a press. I really only do 3 different bearings on these cars and keep the old bearing outers sliced and on hand for the next one. Having one available also make pressing the bearing from hub easy. No special tool kits with different sizes.

Long ago I bought the HFT 3/4in drive MM socket set in the metal case. Never used it in 30years for anything but press tools. So that ended up mounted on top of the 20T press.

 

[vwpieces]

I don’t know what a double row bearing is but this inner race that tends to stay on the hub shouldn’t be much of an issue, I’ve watched 3 or 4 videos and it doesn’t seem to be very difficult to get it off

It is a double row ball type bearing. What you see on that Toyota hub is only half of the 2 piece inner race.
Why I mentioned about the backing plate... You can not remove them without destroying them.

 

[Burt Shaver]

One trick I have is to use the old bearing to press in the new. I gut the old bearing and slice a cut down the side. That way it will not bind in the housing/spindle, easy to remove after.
Some VW's need the backing plate unbolted and loose to get a separator in for removing the bearing from spindle. It is not possible to reinstall the backing plate if you happen to forget it and press on the hub. You just wasted a bearing if you forget.

Lately I have been just blowing out the hub with an air hammer with a blunt hammer bit. It destroys the hub so a CV will ever fit again but it make short work, fast and easy compared to fiddling with the press or pullers. Removing bearing from spindle still requires a press. I really only do 3 different bearings on these cars and keep the old bearing outers sliced and on hand for the next one. Having one available also make pressing the bearing from hub easy. No special tool kits with different sizes.

Long ago I bought the HFT 3/4in drive MM socket set in the metal case. Never used it in 30years for anything but press tools. So that ended up mounted on top of the 20T press.

That’s some great advice, I never thought of slicing the old bearing essentially making it a hair smaller. I have never changed a bearing so difficult for me to envision but after you gut the old bearing, do you cut all the way through what’s left? I’m thinking yes but just to be sure. What do you use to make this slice?

 

[vwpieces]

That’s some great advice, I never thought of slicing the old bearing essentially making it a hair smaller. I have never changed a bearing so difficult for me to envision but after you gut the old bearing, do you cut all the way through what’s left? I’m thinking yes but just to be sure. What do you use to make this slice?

Yes slice all the way through.
You will still have half of the bearing intact.
Remove the seal and break away the ball cage. That will allow you to remove the second inner race that did not blow apart.
Now ya got a future press tool.

 

[vwpieces]

I suggest buying a new hub locally just to have on hand. Return it if not needed. If needed your set...
I have done a lot of repairs where I did not go home till it was fixed... be prepared.

 

[Burt Shaver]

Yes slice all the way through.
You will still have half of the bearing intact.
Remove the seal and break away the ball cage. That will allow you to remove the second inner race that did not blow apart.
Now ya got a future press tool.

I will see how it goes, probably get at this in a week or 2,, going to get the parts ordered tomorrow from Rock auto, my research tells me SKF ( going from memory I think it’s SKF ) is a good bearing, or Timken. I seen someone gut a bearing on one of the video’s but I will post a pic on here if I’m not sure. Thanks for all the help

 

[vwpieces]

Also if a new hub is $20-30 you don't need the $50 separator kit.
Just a thought...

 

[Burt Shaver]

I suggest buying a new hub locally just to have on hand. Return it if not needed. If needed your set...
I have done a lot of repairs where I did not go home till it was fixed... be prepared.

I usually think the same way, I always buy more material than needed for any contracting job, always plan on doing a return but in this case we have multiple vehicles available so I may chance it without the new hub on hand but it’s a good idea, I will give it some thought

 

[Burt Shaver]

Also if a new hub is $20-30 you don't need the $50 separator kit.
Just a thought...

Lol, I could just go at that inner race with a dremel and chisel. I just want to buy tools

 

[vwpieces]

SKF are good but no longer made in Germany. *** is another good one but again no longer German.
Timken is more USA based vehicles but good stuff.
Japan car may have Koyo or NTN as original.

 

[vwpieces]

I paid for my 20T Press the first week I had it. Rebuilt and sold 3 sets of VW rabbit spindles with new hubs and bearings. Made about $75 on each pair and doing several sets at a time made it fast and easy. When your already setup for one process might as well do 6 of them.
That was over 25yrs ago. Today the press has an air over hydraulic pump. Just squeeze the air valve. It's like cheating. Still makes me smile every time I use it, 5yrs later.

 

[Burt Shaver]

I paid for my 20T Press the first week I had it. Rebuilt and sold 3 sets of VW rabbit spindles with new hubs and bearings. Made about $75 on each pair and doing several sets at a time made it fast and easy. When your already setup for one process might as well do 6 of them.
That was over 25yrs ago. Today the press has an air over hydraulic pump. Just squeeze the air valve. It's like cheating. Still makes me smile every time I use it, 5yrs later.

I can’t wait to use my 20T press, I paid almost 1000.00 to have the rear pads and rotors changed on my 2016 Ram a year or so ago and that set me on a path of doing more of my own repair work. I just put new pads and rotors on my daughters car last week, 140.00 in parts, I’m sure it would have cost near 400.00 with parts and labor at a shop and besides I love being in my shop with my tools tinkering on stuff. Once I become a little more familiar with it I would do some work for friends and family with it ( tail light warranty of course).

 

[scofo]

As vwpieces recommends, have a new hub on hand.
If your wheel bearing is sloopy loose the hub is likely damaged anyway.


Goodluck.

 

[CraigStu]

On the Lexus/Toyota stuff I have done that on, the back side of the race is near identical to the OD of the hub it butts against (where the seal rides). So a puller usually has nothing to grab. I have always done kind of a spiral cut in that race w/ a 3-4 inch cutoff wheel in a die grinder. then hit the spiral w/ the chisel. You can't get your cut all the way through because you don't want to score the hub 'axle' section. Also you would need to cut into an inside 90deg corner w/ a round wheel. So you get as well through it as you can and the chisel will crack the rest of it. It expands and slides off.

 

[Steve_P]

I've done this before on different vehicles, but the same basic thing... The bearing race is HARD. Yes, I know, this is not a surprise, but it isn't easy to split it with a chisel after cutting partly thru; you will destroy even the best chisel unless you get 90%+ thru. Also, you really need an air cutoff tool if you plan to cut it and split it; a dremel is going to take hours. Heat is the best way, but most people don't have an oxy-acetylene torch or a MIG welder. I would see if you can find a shop near you to heat and remove it for you as this will be hours saved if you don't have an OA torch or MIG. If not, buy new hubs if they're available from the aftermarket.

 

[bwringer]

This is a hub off a Toyota but pretty much the same as the Mazda will be, from every video I’ve watched the inner part of the race usually always stays on the hub when pressing the hub out.

A separator won't do anything at all.

Either replace the hub (my preference, and honestly surprisingly cheap most times) or cut a slot with a Dremel, then whack the slot with a large cold chisel to crack the race and tap it off.

Heating the race with a torch can work sometimes help loosen it as well to the point you can tap it off.

 

[Burt Shaver]

A separator won't do anything at all.

Either replace the hub (my preference, and honestly surprisingly cheap most times) or cut a slot with a Dremel, then whack the slot with a large cold chisel to crack the race and tap it off.

Heating the race with a torch can work sometimes help loosen it as well to the point you can tap it off.

This was the set up I had seen, There was one video where this set up was used and instead of pulling it, they pressed the hub with the separator Siting on the press plates. But after the replies here I’m going to go ahead and order a new hub as well, only 25.00 at RA so better just have it in case the old hub is damaged or I can’t get the inner race off. They only have 1 in stock, anyone ever use Durago hub or any other part?

 

[oldmachinenut]

 

[Burt Shaver]

Doesn’t get any easier than that, unfortunately I don’t have oxygen acetylene

 

[oldmachinenut]

My son has the tool I posted above at his shop. It removes the race in seconds with no hub damage.