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Beginner's luck--Walker Model 882

dchasins

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
58
Location
Western NC
Total newbie, here, posting up my first thread to show you all my new (old) jack and see what I can do to track the process of fixing it up. Here's what happened: I've been browsing some great threads, enjoying myself and learning a lot, just lurking, mostly on garage builds, as I am planning a new garage/shop within a couple of years, wanting some ideas.

Then I fell in love. With a jack. More precisely with the early Walker hydraulic floor jacks, like the one so beautifully restored by BB767 in his amazing thread on the Restored 1930's Garage. I am a sucker for "art deco" type designs, and for quality, American built tools. I saw that jack, and it was an "I've got to look for one like that" experience. Currently for floor jacks I have a Hein Warner O'boy 1 1/4 ton and an import 3 ton, which I've never really liked.

...so, without really expecting anything at all, I took a little cruise through the local CL, and buried in the fine print of an ad from a guy cleaning out his garage, there was a listing for a Walker 882, which had belonged to his father. It was described as not working, price $30. When I called, without me asking he dropped the price to $20. I figured, too good to be true, must be an absolute basket case. But for $20, how wrong could I go, and it was close to me, so I went on over. Nice guy, just didn't need the jack or want to get into it. We had a nice chat about old cars, and I brought it home. It looked pretty tired, but intact, showing evidence of previous rebuild and a lot of hard use. But that's what it's for, right? I will say, it is a truly heavy duty piece of equipment, rated at 2 tons on the data plate. Makes my other jacks look like toys.

Here's progress so far. As bought, the jack was soft, would only raise a little, dripping fluid. I filled it with jack oil, bled it, and decided to try it out. And guess what? It works great. I couldn't believe it. I tried it out on my 3/4 ton pickup, and it lifted it easily. Left it under load for about 20 minutes and it didn't move. And get this, it didn't drip while loaded either. I wonder if seals were dry, and leaking due to lack of use. With fresh oil and some exercise, maybe they have softened up and started to work better...is that even possible? Over night, it dripped just a bit, looks like from the pump area. I am no expert on hydraulics, so feel free to give your advice/experience...

My original thought was to do a complete rebuild and restore the original paint scheme at the same time. Now I don't know about the rebuild part. I think I'll use it a bit and see how it does. I don't believe in rebuilding unless it's really needed. I will definitely want to clean it up well and repaint. I plan to reach out via PM to the local expert (Hiball) to seek advice. I've read the sticky on floor jacks, so I have a start.

Here are some shots of the jack which eventually will be the "before" photos:
Walker_1.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]


walker_9.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

walker_7.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

walker_6.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

walker_4.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

walker_5.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

walker_3.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Walker_2.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

walker_8.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
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bungy42

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 4, 2010
Messages
73
Location
Tinkhamtown, MA
That's a great jack. I have the same one, but mine definitely needed a rebuild when I got it. It turns out that the main ram seal was split, so it wouldn't lift at all. It's all good now though! These things were definitely built to last.
 

zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
:drool::bowdown: I'm envious. Enjoy it :beer:

BTW, if you think that is a "basket case" you ain't seen nothin' my friend. :lol:
 

Larch

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
289
Location
Ronan Mt.
:drool::bowdown: I'm envious. Enjoy it :beer:

BTW, if you think that is a "basket case" you ain't seen nothin' my friend. :lol:

I agree! I picked up a cherry picker last weekend. As I was walking through the guys shop, i see a 10 ton floor jack with the wheels off of it. I asked the guy if it was Hein Werner, since it is orange. He responds, not sure, I am 99% sure it is. I ask him what his plans are for it. He responds, just going to paint it up and sell it. Now my heart skips a beat, trying to stay calm and keep a poker face on, I ask how much he wants for it. He responds I dunno probably a hundred bucks. Oh, okay, well your wife has my number, I want it when you are ready to sell it. He says alright, I'll give you a call in a couple weeks. I am eagerly awaiting the call, the jack is about five feet long, to say I am excited would be an understatement!:drool:
 

zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
I agree! I picked up a cherry picker last weekend. As I was walking through the guys shop, i see a 10 ton floor jack with the wheels off of it. I asked the guy if it was Hein Werner, since it is orange. He responds, not sure, I am 99% sure it is. I ask him what his plans are for it. He responds, just going to paint it up and sell it. Now my heart skips a beat, trying to stay calm and keep a poker face on, I ask how much he wants for it. He responds I dunno probably a hundred bucks. Oh, okay, well your wife has my number, I want it when you are ready to sell it. He says alright, I'll give you a call in a couple weeks. I am eagerly awaiting the call, the jack is about five feet long, to say I am excited would be an understatement!:drool:

I hope it works out for you, but in my experience when someone says they will give you a call and it is a fair to good deal on the item, they more often than not never call. 10 ton is massive for general car work. Even that 882 above is a pretty large unit. Just a heads up a few off shore companies make a very boxy 10ton jack with orange and white paint. You should have just offered to buy it there and save him the trouble of repaint.
 

Larch

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Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
289
Location
Ronan Mt.
I hope it works out for you, but in my experience when someone says they will give you a call and it is a fair to good deal on the item, they more often than not never call. 10 ton is massive for general car work. Even that 882 above is a pretty large unit. Just a heads up a few off shore companies make a very boxy 10ton jack with orange and white paint. You should have just offered to buy it there and save him the trouble of repaint.

I am going to call him next week, was a really nice guy, retired mechanic. I work on a farm so I could actually get a lot of use from it. I am sick of using 20 ton bottle jacks to lift tractors and implements. I just hope he still wants to sell it.:thumbup: Yeah, I should have, but i didn't have room in the truck, had to pick up the hoist, engine stand and motor. I just hope he calls, I am pretty sure it is HW, it is old. He said all seals are good and it doesn't bleed off. I just hope if he does list it, that it is too big for most people.
 
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Laro13

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Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Messages
219
Location
The Netherlands, Europe
Nice find. You ****.:thumbup:

I also have a 882, but it's in a far worse state than yours.


The axles of the caster-wheels are almost worn through.



Even the front wheels look a bit worse for wear and a bit thin on the outside.



The jack also leaks some oil, so I will contact Hibill for a rebuild kit.

I also blame Thomas/BB767 for letting me buy this.:bounce:

Good luck!
 

bungy42

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 4, 2010
Messages
73
Location
Tinkhamtown, MA
You should have just offered to buy it there and save him the trouble of repaint.

Seconded.

Here's what my 784 looked like when I got it, and a second picture of the jack after the refurb.
 

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zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
Seconded.

Here's what my 784 looked like when I got it, and a second picture of the jack after the refurb.

Beautiful job on the repaint. :drool: The flat dark blue, black and white really go well together.
 
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dchasins

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
58
Location
Western NC
Thanks to all for your comments. I think it will be a fun project to get it in shape, as well as making a nice unit to take over as my main floor jack. Any of you who have had your Walker apart for clean up and paint or for rebuild...please feel free to post up any tips or tricks!

I'll update as I have anything to show or report.
 

kenfain

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
298
Location
just west of Walton
Thanks to all for your comments. I think it will be a fun project to get it in shape, as well as making a nice unit to take over as my main floor jack. Any of you who have had your Walker apart for clean up and paint or for rebuild...please feel free to post up any tips or tricks!

I'll update as I have anything to show or report.

Nice find! I'm in the process of rebuilding an 882 right now. Be careful when dis - assembling, as there are no parts available, other than seal kits. Trying to find parts that have been broken while taking it apart can be tough. As far as tips to taking it apart goes, the thread of 30s garage restoration is what I used. It has enough details and pictures, to find all the pins n stuff that hold this thing together.
Good luck!
 

bungy42

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Joined
Oct 4, 2010
Messages
73
Location
Tinkhamtown, MA
O boy, that almost looks pitted to the point of no return. I wonder what the hydraulics unit looks like (if present?)?.

I guarantee that someone can get that working again. It's not too far gone. If I were closer, I'd pick it up myself.
 

Handyman85281

New member
Joined
May 20, 2014
Messages
2
A friend of mine was clearing out his long deceased father-in-law's wood shop and found this old Walker 882B Roll-A-Car floor jack stuck back in the corner covered in saw dust. His father-in-law passed away in the early 90s and his mother-in-law wouldn't let anyone touch the wood shop until she passed away.
Going through the place they found this in the back, still had the owners and parts manuals tied to the handle in what looked like the original bag from the dealer. The seals are shot and it had leaked out most of its oil so they were tossing it. The thing was hardly used by the looks of it. I'm hoping a seal kit is going to put it back in good working order. Then I will have a classic American made floor jack. The paint is in fairly good shape so I'm hoping I can get the ram out of it without taking too much apart. I'd like to keep all the painted bolts in good shape. I'm planning to repaint the yellow on the upper handle, the yellow inside the wheels, the yellow lift cup, and redo the blue Walker cover with white lettering. I've attached photos of it after I wiped it down with Purple Power. Total cost so far.... a gallon of fuel to pick it up and a pint of Purple Power. If anyone knows of a reasonable place to buy seals please let me know.Thanks.
 

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kenfain

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Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
298
Location
just west of Walton
That is awesome! I don't know if you'll be able to get to those seals without taking the whole jack apart. But I'm with you on not messing up the paint. Taking it apart will most likely leave marks. Although that's some really tough paint.
I have a question. In what condition is the decal, that's on top of the pump itself? I'm in need of a really good digital picture of that decal for my own rebuild. You'll likely mess that up while rebuilding. Unlike the paint, that sticker is delicate.
By the way, congratulations, and you ****! :thumbup:
 

Itinerant

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Joined
Nov 17, 2013
Messages
1,037
Location
Behind the Zion Curtain
A friend of mine was clearing out his long deceased father-in-law's wood shop and found this old Walker 882B Roll-A-Car floor jack stuck back in the corner covered in saw dust. His father-in-law passed away in the early 90s and his mother-in-law wouldn't let anyone touch the wood shop until she passed away.
Going through the place they found this in the back, still had the owners and parts manuals tied to the handle in what looked like the original bag from the dealer. The seals are shot and it had leaked out most of its oil so they were tossing it. The thing was hardly used by the looks of it. I'm hoping a seal kit is going to put it back in good working order. Then I will have a classic American made floor jack. The paint is in fairly good shape so I'm hoping I can get the ram out of it without taking too much apart. I'd like to keep all the painted bolts in good shape. I'm planning to repaint the yellow on the upper handle, the yellow inside the wheels, the yellow lift cup, and redo the blue Walker cover with white lettering. I've attached photos of it after I wiped it down with Purple Power. Total cost so far.... a gallon of fuel to pick it up and a pint of Purple Power. If anyone knows of a reasonable place to buy seals please let me know.Thanks.


You ****!

Try here for the seal rebuild kit: http://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kits/lincoln-walker/1381
 

Garage Junky

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 19, 2013
Messages
673
Location
MI
Total newbie, here, posting up my first thread to show you all my new (old) jack and see what I can do to track the process of fixing it up. Here's what happened: I've been browsing some great threads, enjoying myself and learning a lot, just lurking, mostly on garage builds, as I am planning a new garage/shop within a couple of years, wanting some ideas.

Then I fell in love. With a jack. More precisely with the early Walker hydraulic floor jacks, like the one so beautifully restored by BB767 in his amazing thread on the Restored 1930's Garage. I am a sucker for "art deco" type designs, and for quality, American built tools. I saw that jack, and it was an "I've got to look for one like that" experience. Currently for floor jacks I have a Hein Warner O'boy 1 1/4 ton and an import 3 ton, which I've never really liked.

...so, without really expecting anything at all, I took a little cruise through the local CL, and buried in the fine print of an ad from a guy cleaning out his garage, there was a listing for a Walker 882, which had belonged to his father. It was described as not working, price $30. When I called, without me asking he dropped the price to $20. I figured, too good to be true, must be an absolute basket case. But for $20, how wrong could I go, and it was close to me, so I went on over. Nice guy, just didn't need the jack or want to get into it. We had a nice chat about old cars, and I brought it home. It looked pretty tired, but intact, showing evidence of previous rebuild and a lot of hard use. But that's what it's for, right? I will say, it is a truly heavy duty piece of equipment, rated at 2 tons on the data plate. Makes my other jacks look like toys.

Here's progress so far. As bought, the jack was soft, would only raise a little, dripping fluid. I filled it with jack oil, bled it, and decided to try it out. And guess what? It works great. I couldn't believe it. I tried it out on my 3/4 ton pickup, and it lifted it easily. Left it under load for about 20 minutes and it didn't move. And get this, it didn't drip while loaded either. I wonder if seals were dry, and leaking due to lack of use. With fresh oil and some exercise, maybe they have softened up and started to work better...is that even possible? Over night, it dripped just a bit, looks like from the pump area. I am no expert on hydraulics, so feel free to give your advice/experience...

My original thought was to do a complete rebuild and restore the original paint scheme at the same time. Now I don't know about the rebuild part. I think I'll use it a bit and see how it does. I don't believe in rebuilding unless it's really needed. I will definitely want to clean it up well and repaint. I plan to reach out via PM to the local expert (Hiball) to seek advice. I've read the sticky on floor jacks, so I have a start.

Here are some shots of the jack which eventually will be the "before" photos:
Walker_1.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]


walker_9.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

walker_7.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

walker_6.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

walker_4.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

walker_5.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

walker_3.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Walker_2.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

walker_8.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

YOU ****! I just paid $100 for a Weaver off Detroit CL, somehow I missed this gem. Guess i should read the fine print better.

You're just up the road from me, I drive through Clarkston all the time on the way to the office.
 

Handyman85281

New member
Joined
May 20, 2014
Messages
2
Kenfain,
Here is the attached photo of the ram with the label on it. The label is in great condition. The photo isn't perfect because it is curved around the cylinder of the ram. I hope it is sufficient for your needs. The second photo is resized from the first just in case the first is too large. If you provide me with an email address I can send them to you directly if that helps.
 

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kenfain

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
298
Location
just west of Walton
Kenfain,
Here is the attached photo of the ram with the label on it. The label is in great condition. The photo isn't perfect because it is curved around the cylinder of the ram. I hope it is sufficient for your needs. The second photo is resized from the first just in case the first is too large. If you provide me with an email address I can send them to you directly if that helps.

Thank you! I'll try to p.m. my email address. Gotta warn you though, my pm skills leave a lot of room for improvement. Maybe it's the tapatalk app, I dunno . Anyway that's an awesome jack! And the decal is white, what was left of mine was gold colored. I thought it was supposed to be gold. It must've gotten jack oil or something on it. I'm hoping to source a reproduction of that sticker, and I'm glad you've cleared up that point. Maybe that's why my decal was so delicate, it was compromised over the years. So hopefully yours will be more solid.
 
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dchasins

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
58
Location
Western NC
zkling:

Hi, thanks for the tip. I did see that one on CL, but it does look a little rough!! Though there are some pretty determined and talented rebuilders, as I am finding out. If the cylinder is there, it might be rebuilt, or be good for parts...
 
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dchasins

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
58
Location
Western NC
Thanks, kenfain.

I've gone through BB767's documentation of his rebuild (awesome!) and it looks pretty helpful. I have also reached out via PM to Hiball, to see what he can supply for seals, etc.
 
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dchasins

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Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
58
Location
Western NC
Handyman85281:

Wow! I thought my find was a pretty good score...but I think yours is even better! I think Hiball can supply the seal kit for this jack from what I have read on GJ. I haven't heard back on my PM to him yet--he might be on vacation or otherwise unavailable, I don't know. You can also find people listing seal kits on eBay, search "walker floor jack" and it will come up. Good luck...I might PM you for some information about your excellent looking original paint job, when I get to the point of repainting.
 
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dchasins

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Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
58
Location
Western NC
Garage Junky:

Well, there are always hidden gems on CL; sometimes you get lucky and find them or get to them first. Just like Handyman85281 up there...got a beautiful all original jack basically for free! Wow.
 
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kenfain

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Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
298
Location
just west of Walton
Wow! I thought my find was a pretty good score...but I think yours is even better! I think Hiball can supply the seal kit for this jack from what I have read on GJ. I haven't heard back on my PM to him yet--he might be on vacation or otherwise unavailable, I don't know. You can also find people listing seal kits on eBay, search "walker floor jack" and it will come up. Good luck...I might PM you for some information about your excellent looking original paint job, when I get to the point of repainting.

Hiball took several days to reply to my pm, so be patient, he will get back. As to the rest of the jack, you'll find that those pins that seem to hold everything together are the biggest obstacle. In most cases you'll likely want to re use those. A punch set works for that, after grinding the thing round enough, so it'll fit back through the hole. I used a dremel tool. Just be sure to bag and tag all parts. The only real issue I had was with the pressed in bolts that hold up the support arms. They need to be pressed out, I used a hammer. That little shortcut cost me a hundred bucks. As these had to be made. Any questions, just ask. It's really a fun relatively simple project. Good luck!
 
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dchasins

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Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
58
Location
Western NC
OK, for anyone interested, here are some progress pictures as I have started to tear down the jack for clean up. Those of you who have already been through this process, please feel free to post advice and suggestions!

First, I took off the handle outer section and the cylinder release knob, by driving out the pin holding it to the internal shaft (have to find the pix of that part). The handle comes off with two bolts through the bottom section.

Then wheels off. The screw/retainer for the back caster wheels is staked, so carefully knock back the stake with a small chisel:

IMGP0138.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

The screws are pretty tight after years and years, so I (gently) used a hand impact driver, along with some heat to the frame and a lot penetrating oil:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0139.jpg.html] [/URL]

Eventually they came loose:

IMGP0140.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

When the screws are removed, the caster comes right out. The ball bearings will fall right out, since the retainers are loose--don't lose them. The caster axles are worn, so these will have to come apart to be rebuilt:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0154.jpg.html] [/URL]

Next, I went after the front wheels and axle. The grease cap and thrust washers are retained by a cotter pin, and came off easily. Needle rollers are also loose, so when the wheel comes off, you need to capture them too:

IMGP0150.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

IMGP0149.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Then, there are two pins locating the axle in the front of the side frame members. These are also staked and require grinding, or chiseling or both to be able to drive them out. Mine were pretty abused to start with, so replacements will have to be sourced:

IMGP0153.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Then the axle will slide out to either side.

Next step is to split the sides to remove the main cylinder, and the lift mechanism to allow for cleanup, sandblasting, painting, etc. Next post to show more disassembly. Stand by!
 

kenfain

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Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
298
Location
just west of Walton
Wow! I'm gettin deja vu. Your jack appears to be in about the same condition as mine was. I'm down to the last bits before final assembly. Are you planning on rebuilding your pump? Or having it done. BTW here's a picture of mine during final assembly, before touch up. I've still got to finish the handle.
 

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dchasins

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Apr 2, 2014
Messages
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Western NC
Hi, Kenfain! Glad you're watching... I can use any tips you might have. I haven't decided about the pump yet. It works fine, holds the weight. But it does drip a bit when the jack is sitting. We'll see what I find when I look into it. What about you?

I do have some more pics to post on progress but haven't had time just yet. More to come.

Your jack is looking great. I'll be interested to see the final result!
 

kenfain

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Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
298
Location
just west of Walton
I had the pump rebuilt, since mine leaked at all three rams. There are some talented hydraulic jack people in Dallas. So I took it in for a complete rebuild. It cost a couple hundred, plus parts. Worth it to me since my time is valuable. And I know I wouldn't have gotten it right the first time. And I sure didn't want to take it apart again. I put the handle back together today. Then I figured out that I'd put a small spacer in the wrong place. Naturally I'll have to separate the frame a bit to fix that. But it's all good, I'm in the final stretch. What are your plans for rebuild? You gonna use it? Display it? High quality full restoration? Or just get it working, and paint it up? I hope you have a blast cabinet.
 
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dchasins

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Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
58
Location
Western NC
I had the pump rebuilt, since mine leaked at all three rams. There are some talented hydraulic jack people in Dallas. So I took it in for a complete rebuild. It cost a couple hundred, plus parts. Worth it to me since my time is valuable. And I know I wouldn't have gotten it right the first time. And I sure didn't want to take it apart again. I put the handle back together today. Then I figured out that I'd put a small spacer in the wrong place. Naturally I'll have to separate the frame a bit to fix that. But it's all good, I'm in the final stretch. What are your plans for rebuild? You gonna use it? Display it? High quality full restoration? Or just get it working, and paint it up? I hope you have a blast cabinet.

I will definitely be using it. My plan is to do a nice rebuild with as close to factory refinish as I can do. When it's ready, I will get rid of a 3-ton import jack that I have. Which will leave me with the Walker and a 1 1/4-ton Hein-Werner O'Boy. As you'll see, I have a few issues to deal with, but no doubt I will figure out how to work through it. As far as sandblasting goes, wish I had a blast cabinet, but I don't...so I will be using a regular sandblaster outdoors.
 
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dchasins

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Messages
58
Location
Western NC
So, here comes some more pix of disassembly...

With the front wheels off, and the pins removed, the front axle pulls out to either side:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0151.jpg.html] [/URL]

Then, removing all the nuts on the cross pieces that hold the frame together is pretty simple. There is also one small bolt through the linkage a pin through the rods that actuate the pistons. these need to be removed in order to free the lower handle section:



[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/walker_5.jpg.html] [/URL]

After removing all the nuts, the frame halves started to move pretty easily:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0155.jpg.html] [/URL]

But it turns out that the pivot for the back end of the lift arm side rails is a press fit into the side members, shown on the right of lift arm pivot in this shot:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0156.jpg.html] [/URL]

It did not want to move with some gentle taps of a dead blow hammer, with the help of some penetrant and a little heat around the pin. So I used a 3 leg puller to push the pin out. 2 legs on the top of the frame, where it is conveniently sloped to both sides, and one leg on the bottom of the frame. Used the same process on both sides. Going carefully and using some heat moved it out pretty easily:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0157.jpg.html] [/URL]

On one side the puller screw slightly damaged the end of the thread on the pin, so I will need to chase the thread before reassembly. Pin removed:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0158.jpg.html] [/URL]

So with both sides of the frame removed, I can start work on the various sub-assemblies for clean up, refurbishment and repair where needed, before going on to refinish.

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0160.jpg.html] [/URL]

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0161.jpg.html] [/URL]

But now for one speed bump, I have an issue with the main pivot for the handle. In this shot you can see that the bore in the right side frame is badly ovalled out. I assumed this was from extreme wear and extensive use:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0141.jpg.html] [/URL]

But when I took out the lower handle assembly, here is what I found. The ovalled out bore in the right side frame:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0162.jpg.html] [/URL]

The left side of the handle pivot pin looks ok:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0164.jpg.html] [/URL]

But the right side of the handle pivot pin looks like this, not what I was expecting:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0163.jpg.html] [/URL]

Looks to me as though the pin has been knurled or something--maybe to try to take up slop in the pivot in a prior rebuild? I am guessing that this may explain the extensive wear on the right side of the frame pivot. I had thought that a solution was to rebore and bush the side frame, assuming the pin was ok. But with the pin as it is, that is going to need to be dealt with as well. Anybody out there know if the lower handle pin will push out of the handle yoke and piston actuator (center section)? I am definitely looking for thoughts on this--already reached out to BB767 via PM to see if he has suggestions.

More to follow as I progress. I am trying to take it slow and careful, as well as working around other projects. Thanks for following along!
 

kenfain

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
298
Location
just west of Walton
So, here comes some more pix of disassembly...

With the front wheels off, and the pins removed, the front axle pulls out to either side:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/u...cc446/DMSKAuto/Walker jack/IMGP0151.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Then, removing all the nuts on the cross pieces that hold the frame together is pretty simple. There is also one small bolt through the linkage a pin through the rods that actuate the pistons. these need to be removed in order to free the lower handle section:



[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/u...cc446/DMSKAuto/Walker jack/walker_5.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

After removing all the nuts, the frame halves started to move pretty easily:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/u...cc446/DMSKAuto/Walker jack/IMGP0155.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

But it turns out that the pivot for the back end of the lift arm side rails is a press fit into the side members, shown on the right of lift arm pivot in this shot:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/u...cc446/DMSKAuto/Walker jack/IMGP0156.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

It did not want to move with some gentle taps of a dead blow hammer, with the help of some penetrant and a little heat around the pin. So I used a 3 leg puller to push the pin out. 2 legs on the top of the frame, where it is conveniently sloped to both sides, and one leg on the bottom of the frame. Used the same process on both sides. Going carefully and using some heat moved it out pretty easily:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/u...cc446/DMSKAuto/Walker jack/IMGP0157.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

On one side the puller screw slightly damaged the end of the thread on the pin, so I will need to chase the thread before reassembly. Pin removed:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/u...cc446/DMSKAuto/Walker jack/IMGP0158.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

So with both sides of the frame removed, I can start work on the various sub-assemblies for clean up, refurbishment and repair where needed, before going on to refinish.

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/u...cc446/DMSKAuto/Walker jack/IMGP0160.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/u...cc446/DMSKAuto/Walker jack/IMGP0161.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

But now for one speed bump, I have an issue with the main pivot for the handle. In this shot you can see that the bore in the right side frame is badly ovalled out. I assumed this was from extreme wear and extensive use:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/u...cc446/DMSKAuto/Walker jack/IMGP0141.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

But when I took out the lower handle assembly, here is what I found. The ovalled out bore in the right side frame:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/u...cc446/DMSKAuto/Walker jack/IMGP0162.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

The left side of the handle pivot pin looks ok:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/u...cc446/DMSKAuto/Walker jack/IMGP0164.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

But the right side of the handle pivot pin looks like this, not what I was expecting:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/u...cc446/DMSKAuto/Walker jack/IMGP0163.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Looks to me as though the pin has been knurled or something--maybe to try to take up slop in the pivot in a prior rebuild? I am guessing that this may explain the extensive wear on the right side of the frame pivot. I had thought that a solution was to rebore and bush the side frame, assuming the pin was ok. But with the pin as it is, that is going to need to be dealt with as well. Anybody out there know if the lower handle pin will push out of the handle yoke and piston actuator (center section)? I am definitely looking for thoughts on this--already reached out to BB767 via PM to see if he has suggestions.

More to follow as I progress. I am trying to take it slow and careful, as well as working around other projects. Thanks for following along!

Great job so far! It's a shame about that oblong hole in the frame. And the knurling on that pin had me wondering what they were thinking, when they did that? As far as the handle and rod hardware. It's mostly staked. After you remove the swivel, from the open yoke end. The rod needs to be un staked at the joint that connects the extension rod. That's the one that goes all the way up to the knob. To put it another way, you'll need to take off that plate that holds everything centered. Then the swivel rod comes out the back. The shorter rod with the point, comes out the yoke end. I hope that makes sense. If not pm me. I just put mine back together yesterday.
 
OP
D

dchasins

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
58
Location
Western NC
OK, a little more progress yesterday. Disassembled part of the handle unit and the caster wheels. The next step will be to try to press the handle pivot pin out of the yoke and piston actuator...right now that portion is soaking in penetrating oil to try to free it up. I tried to press it out once, but I am worried about damaging the yoke, which has to take the pressure on the shop press. I used a little heat on the actuator, but it looks to me as though it's pretty rusty and it didn't budge...yet. The pin is free and the yoke pivots easily, so the "stuck" part is all between the pin and actuator. I'd rather soak it and take it in steps rather than risk spoiling the yoke.

My plan at this point, assuming I can get the pin out, is to turn down the pin to fit a super Oilite bushing that would be pressed into a rebored hole in the right frame side. Unfortunately, whatever machine work I need will have be farmed out, since I don't have a lathe.

Here is some removal on the lower handle, took out the swivel joint and the cotter pin on the top of the handle position rod, which allowed removal of the piston valve rod. I used a pair of vise-grips to hold the spring loaded piston valve out far enough to allow grinding off the staking from the pin on the swivel assembly, and then to drive it out with a drift:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0168.jpg.html] [/URL]

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0169.jpg.html] [/URL]

While the yoke & actuator was soaking, I moved on to the casters. First step was to grind off one of the swaged/staked ends of the axle in each wheel. These are clearly pretty worn, as each wheel had about 1/4" of up/down movement. Once an end of the axle was free enough, I used the shop press to push out the axle using an impact socket to support the caster frame, and other sockets and a 1/4" extension to serve as the drift. The axles came out pretty easily once ground down sufficiently. I went carefully to minimize damage to the caster frame. There is a chamfer recess, which could be seen once the first pin was out.

I used a die grinder with a dome shaped burr to grind the axle:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0170.jpg.html] [/URL]

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0171.jpg.html] [/URL]

You can see the amount of wear on the caster axles. I was surprised to find that the original design appears to have been simply steel on steel between the wheel and axle. Without any provision for lube, not too surprising that over the years, with heavy loading the axles wear down like this:

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0172.jpg.html] [/URL]

The wheels appear to be in good condition. However, I am reluctant to reassemble with a new axle and some grease. In another 50 years (or a lot longer with the relatively easy use it will get with me) it would have the same problem. So...I am considering making some modification to fit needle roller bearings to the caster wheels. Interesting to see that the front wheels and axle have held up really well, using rollers. A little research turned up that I can source lubricated needle bearings to give a working load rating of about 3000 pounds per caster, which should be more than enough for this 2 ton-rated jack (4,000 lbs or about 1,000 per wheel under full load). This will mean some additional machine work to the wheels and caster frames. I need to order parts for this modification too, so I'll report once I get further along. In the meantime, I will get back to the yoke and actuator, as well as starting to clean up the frame and other parts, as well as the main hydraulic unit.

More to follow.
 

kenfain

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
298
Location
just west of Walton
I'm really interested in the needle bearing, casters. How would those be greased? Maybe a typical zerk fitting I'd guess. But since there's no real clearance, where would it go?
I still have a couple of finishing things to do on mine. But it's finally assembled now, and I took a picture of it's first lift. I feel like a proud father, watching a child take it's first steps. LOL! I'm not really cut out for restoration work. For me it's not about the journey, I just needed a working long frame jack! You can't buy this stuff anymore, and I couldn't afford it, if it were.
The colors aren't original, as I'll need to touch up scratches. So I used rustoleum colors. Won't really matter though, since I'm the only one who will ever see it.
 

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OP
D

dchasins

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
58
Location
Western NC
I'm really interested in the needle bearing, casters. How would those be greased? Maybe a typical zerk fitting I'd guess. But since there's no real clearance, where would it go?
I still have a couple of finishing things to do on mine. But it's finally assembled now, and I took a picture of it's first lift. I feel like a proud father, watching a child take it's first steps. LOL! I'm not really cut out for restoration work. For me it's not about the journey, I just needed a working long frame jack! You can't buy this stuff anymore, and I couldn't afford it, if it were.
The colors aren't original, as I'll need to touch up scratches. So I used rustoleum colors. Won't really matter though, since I'm the only one who will ever see it.[/QUOTE

Hey, Kenfain. Congrats on getting your jack together. It looks great, and it's made to be used. I feel as though each project should be done to meet the needs, wants and budget of the owner. I will be using mine for sure, and we all know that a working jack will get nicks, dings and scrapes. I fully expect to touch mine up from time to time, too. That's one reason I plan to try to do some minor improvements or repairs where needed so that it will last a long time and maybe operate a little more smoothly than if I were to just reassemble it--especially the worn handle pivot.

About the caster wheels, needle bearings can't fit without some modifications--particularly to the wheels themselves. It will require boring the holes in the wheels (which do have some wear anyway, but not as much as the axles) to fit the needle bearings. The needle bearings are available pre-lubed and with seals to keep junk out and lube in. My plan is to use a hardened shaft for the axle and with the needle bearings you get a much higher load rating than with steel-to-steel or with bushings. If I get it all sorted out, I will post details of what I do. It's going to take a while, since I need to order some parts, and then find somebody to do the machining for me, since I don't have a lathe :sad: But someday I will!

I'll keep posting progress... Thanks for posting your pics.
 
OP
D

dchasins

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
58
Location
Western NC
A little more progress Sunday afternoon. After repeated soaking with PB Blaster (first time I'd tried it--I usually use WD40), and application of heat to the actuator I finally got the handle pivot pin to break free. The shop press has a 12 ton bottle jack, and I had to pump it very hard before it moved. It's always a little scary when it gives with a big bang--especially when you're trying not to damage anything. But it looks like the parts are all OK... There was some pretty good rust between the pin and actuator. This will be cleaned up, while the pin is being machined for a bushing in the right side frame. Progress will probably slow down while I get to sandblasting and cleaning, order some bits and pieces and find someone to do the machining that I need.

Thanks for watching.

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0174.jpg.html] [/URL]

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/DMSKAuto/media/Walker%20jack/IMGP0178.jpg.html] [/URL]
 

bungy42

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 4, 2010
Messages
73
Location
Tinkhamtown, MA
It's interesting to me that your casters were originally steel-on-steel. Mine were equipped with bronze bushings. Perhaps that's one thing that makes the 767 different from the 882.
 
OP
D

dchasins

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
58
Location
Western NC
It's interesting to me that your casters were originally steel-on-steel. Mine were equipped with bronze bushings. Perhaps that's one thing that makes the 767 different from the 882.

Hi, bungy42. I couldn't say for sure, but I think this was factory original, judging by the way the caster axles were installed. I found absolutely no evidence of any bushing, and the tolerance between the wheels and diameter of the axles seem to rule out any clearance for a bushing. Seems as though that was the design on the 882. Any body else out there with an 882, had their casters apart?
 

y'sguy

Well-known member
Joined
May 1, 2010
Messages
1,306
Location
Tulsa, Oklahoma
Here's my 884. I didn't go to all the work you are but I did degrease mine and clean it a bunch, to a non original paint scheme. I inherited this from my dad. He used it alot and so have I! There is one on our local CL for about 700 bucks FS. Good price but I sure don't need another! the wheels on mine don't have any zerks for grease either, but there's never been a problem. I used Duplicolor Metelflake blue over Chrome silver base. with Wimbledon white details. Fancier than it needs to be now but I like it. Kind of a tribute to my Dad, I guess. before and after. Hats off to you on your project!

DSCF0155.jpg

DSC04114.JPG

DSC04118.JPG

DSC04116.JPG
 
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