Beginning Mechanic Recommendations and New User!

[EverettNo1]

This is my first post on this site, and I would like some advice for tools to get. First off, a bit of an introduction. My name is Everett, and I currently work construction in CA. I will be hopefully working for a great mechanic starting this summer (full time during summer hopefully, half during school year). I have a pretty small set of tools, enough to fill a 20" old craftsman hand box. I pretty much have all craftsman tools (90%-95% US made) at the moment.
I currently have:
-All 3 of the Cman premium 84t ratchets
-the last US made generation 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets
-Cman sockets in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive (shallow and deep)
-Some combo/box wrenches, probably 4-5 each SAE and Metric (Cman)
-All 3 drive size Cman US breaker bars
-Some assorted Cman extensions, adapters, and U joints
-Flat/Phillips head screwdrivers
-A set of 3/8" drive torx bits
-Dead blow hammer
-Channel lock Lineman's, long needle nose, and snap ring pliers

I would greatly appreciate advice on the following (shop owner said these are a MUST to work there):
-Impact Wrench (1/2")
-Air Ratchet (1/2")
-Impact Sockets (SAE & metric) (1/2")
-Cordless Electric Drill
-Tap and Die set
-Center punches
-Hammer
-files
-Oil Filter Wrench
-Safety stuff (cut resist. gloves, eye protection, and hearing protection)
-Wire Strippers
-A set of very high quality ratchets (good idea?)
-And a box to put it all in

My requirements:
-Made in USA preferred, other COO fine if no other option.
-Snap-On preferred, the shop has a truck that comes by every week
-Good warranties

I understand Made in USA and Snap-On tools will be lots more expensive. I *think* I am prepared for the prices involved for them, and am willing to pay more for a product that will last for a long time. To me, these tools aren't just an investment into this job, but for me into the future, so quality, durability, and wide range of uses for tools is preferred.

Thanks in advance!

 

[G1GRANDEUR]

not this again.

please use the "advanced search" it has been covered so many times.

 

[rider9195]

not this again.

please use the "advanced search" it has been covered so many times.

+1

 

[EverettNo1]

sorry about that. Tried the search and haven't really found anything conclusive/ specific enough but will keep trying. thanks.

 

[1SlowFormula]

OK, let me help you out a little, with a basic "Mechanic tools" search I got a handfull of posts that should help you out...

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5836
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85460
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97461
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57997
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51740
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36414
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21604

 

[dragonballz]

From what I've heard, construction workers make $75,000 and up.

Mechanics make $15,000 - $75,000. $100k if you are the best of the best or just work fast.

Why the heck do you want to be a mechanic

 

[Skin]

some people like to discuss stuff on this here tool forum so dont feel too put off. You were also very specific so thats a huge plus. Since you really dont seem to have a budget get ready to spend a lot.


-Impact Wrench (1/2") [2135QTIMAX/MG725-pretty much the new industry standard, i've personally found the former to be a bit more reliable]

-Air Ratchet (1/2") [dont bother?-i've never used a 1/2" air ratchet in my life, get a 3/8" and slap an adapter on it just to make them happy. If you want to get all fancy get an IR Hammerhead impact ratchet in 3/8". They have a 1/2" too but the specs are the exact same, only the anvil size is changed. Now 1/4" air ratchets are useful, i like my FAR2500 but you can get a nitrocat (taiwan) if you dont want to spend a lot. IR has crummy directional switches so i dont recommend them]

-Impact Sockets (SAE & metric) (1/2") [Cheap USA would be Williams followed by SK and maybe Proto. Just dont blow a lot on a truck set, its honestly not worth it and frankly two companies, Grey Pneumatic and Sunex, make very good Taiwan sets. For ~$100 you can purchase a master metric or SAE set.]

-Cordless Electric Drill [i like DeWalt or Makita, Milwaukee cordless stuff also has a huge following. Bosch also makes a nice line. All of these will be asian sourced.]

-Tap and Die set [All truck brands sell rebranded Irwin/Hanson tap/die sets. Difference between OEM brand and the truck rebrands is the trucks will warranty broken taps, get whatever you like but its all the same product]

-Center punches [Mayhew-again rebranded by many and like the tap/die set trucks will warranty bent punches, stores/Mayhew wont-again decide if you think its worth the premium]

-Hammer [What kind?]

-files [Any decent brand will suffice, you wont use them often enough to worry about wearing them out or breaking them.]

-Oil Filter Wrench [Lisle.]

-Safety stuff (cut resist. gloves, eye protection, and hearing protection) [Any decent brand, the trucks rebrand all this stuff and sell it at a premium]

-Wire Strippers [Snap-On makes some nice stuff]

-A set of very high quality ratchets (good idea?) [No need unless you want longer handles or features like flex/locking flex; instead of a pile of ratchets get all types of ratcheting wrenches or other really useful things like swivel impacts and a 1/4" battery impact and a 3/8" pneumatic impact. I'd also recommend, at the very least if not all the common sizes, a 10mm chrome universal socket in 1/4" drive, it can be a life saver]

-And a box to put it all in [Skies the limit, minimum would be the HF ~40"]

 

[Southern]

Not sure I can offer advice on all of it, but some stuff. You can also google "(tool name) garagejournal" and get threads discussing just about every tool and brand at length. I never ever buy anything off a truck, so disregard if you're trying to go with a majority snap-on.

I like Estwing and Grayvik for hammers. You can get a lot of good Grayvik **** on clearance at Epsteins right now.

I always go with Irwin/Hansen tap and die tools. Their tap holders ****, Starrett makes some I really like.

Cordless tools, I think Makita is pretty much the gold standard, but you pay extra for the name for sure. I never did like DeWalt, it's just yellow B&D. Bosch is a great option if you don't want something Chinese.

Wire Strippers, I go with Klien, of course. Crimpers and Snips, Channellock gets my business. While on the topic of Channellock, they make a super duper oil filter wrench.

As far as boxes go, you can go into debt with your dealer if you want something good and want something now. That never appealed to me, but it's hard to go wrong with anything made by Waterloo (Old craftsman, wright, international, etc). Not quite as heavy duty as the truck brands, but will get the job done. A lot of people, this ain't any ********, swear by the HF toolboxes. I don't buy from Asia so I wouldn't know.

 

[CWP1616L]

My requirements:
-Made in USA preferred, other COO fine if no other option.
-Snap-On preferred, the shop has a truck that comes by every week
-Good warranties

If that's the case, you don't need us; all you need is a Snap-on catalog.

 

[0.511MeV]

Safety stuff, other than steel toe boots, is required to be provided by the employer.

 

[sberry]

Who is to say the ratchets are not good, I am sure this is a general list the guy gave you and if you look prepared all is well. I agree with having set of impact sockets, any kind will do, a 1'2 air gumn and also agree with 3/8 ratchet. If you are focused on supension a 1/2 is good, I got them all but agree with others here, 3/8 to start with go from there. My auto parts store has ATD and Duro impact sockets, singles for like 3$, lifetime no questions replacement, not only dont have to meet the truck that week but they deliver twice a day.

My requirements:
-Made in USA preferred, other COO fine if no other option.
-Snap-On preferred, the shop has a truck that comes by every week
-Good warranties

You are on a budget and starting out, I know this seems important but toss this out the window for now, buy what you have to have, keep 50 in your pocket, need a set of allen wrenches, score it at Walmart on the way home.

I would add a 12 inch channelock, A 6 and 10 straight jaw vise grip. maybe a vise grip clamp or similar if I could find one. I could do 90% of work with 2 hammers, a straight claw nail hammer and a 4 pounder.

 

[bcradio]

-Air Ratchet (1/2") [dont bother?-i've never used a 1/2" air ratchet in my life, get a 3/8" and slap an adapter on it just to make them happy. If you want to get all fancy get an IR Hammerhead impact ratchet in 3/8". They have a 1/2" too but the specs are the exact same, only the anvil size is changed. Now 1/4" air ratchets are useful, i like my FAR2500 but you can get a nitrocat (taiwan) if you dont want to spend a lot. IR has crummy directional switches so i dont recommend them]

Great reply on the tools. I also don't understand why they would require the 1/2" air ratchet... doesn't make sense to me.

P.S. you may want to also invest in a 3/8" impact wrench in the future. I use mine 95% of the time over my 1/2" currently.

 

[Futremechanic]

greetings from Ireland, the advice,the following advice I can give you is, I know its not tool advice

1.Listen to your supervisor & your workmates as they are only going guide you in the right directoin but saying that watch out for the ones who will try to make a fool out of you.

2.Be prepared to clean like hell.

3.Be prepared to learn the electrics if you know as much electrics & spanner intrest you will get loads of work only going for myself.

My own tools advice is:

1.Buy a decent multimeter.

2.You get what you pay for most of the time.

3. Buy good quailty impact guns if you are going to be on sites.

4.Buy good quailty cordless angle grinders & drill if you are going to be on sites.

 

[jetmech09]

I feel like the shop should supply taps+dies as they are consumables. Snap-on universal sockets are a lifesaver. I would also get about 32849032493 different kinds of ratcheting wrenches, and some hemostats. Superglue. Picks in a bunch of sizes, cotter pin pullers, brass punches, small (roughly 1/8") brass stock. Wire strippers- the snappy automatic ones. Snap-on ratchets are impossible to beat in a professional setting. There is absolutely no comparison. Get the absolute longest breaker bar you can. Snap-on angle wrenches are also about as good as it gets. There's a lot you will find you need, especially specific for certain jobs. Get the basics, and as you get more work you buy what you need. If you have to borrow it more than once, buy it.

 

[Futremechanic]

I feel like the shop should supply taps+dies as they are consumables. Snap-on universal sockets are a lifesaver. I would also get about 32849032493 different kinds of ratcheting wrenches, and some hemostats. Superglue. Picks in a bunch of sizes, cotter pin pullers, brass punches, small (roughly 1/8") brass stock. Wire strippers- the snappy automatic ones. Snap-on ratchets are impossible to beat in a professional setting. There is absolutely no comparison. Get the absolute longest breaker bar you can. Snap-on angle wrenches are also about as good as it gets. There's a lot you will find you need, especially specific for certain jobs. Get the basics, and as you get more work you buy what you need. If you have to borrow it more than once, buy it.

I would agree 100% as noone likes lending tools to anyone be it famaily,friends more so workmates after investing hard earned money to get the tool

 

[KEH]

3/4 drive breaker bar and 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapter. Piece of cheater pipe 5 or 6 feet long to go on it. Usually can break loose stubborn fastners that the 1/2 breaker bar bends on. For the time being, a HF breaker bar may work, it is short, however, and the cheater pipe will be needed. At some point you can get a good one and probably wont need to get another one.

KEH

 

[SKAutomotive]

I wouldn't be able to sleep tonight if I didn't say this:

Run kid, run. Stay out of this industry. Stick with construction and a decent life.

 

[jmm]

Granted, I don't know your situation, but it seems to me you're a novice, give or take some skills you've probably already picked up, and this mechanic's going to take you on to show you the ropes. If you were learning from me, I'd tell you to bring the very basics; you've already got plenty to start. You'd borrow my tools when necessary. Professional tools are very expensive, especially for someone going through school...no need to go all out at one time considering this occupation might not suit you. As you see fit, you start building a box of your own. It takes a lot of time for someone who's been in the business to have those large tool-boxes. We don't buy them all at once.

The tools have been pretty well covered, but do keep in mind European brands. Design is distinct from American stuff, but the best tools made in Europe rank up there with the best of the big brand USA stuff.

Also, I've heard mentioned time to time this law in California, where employers must provide tools and/or reimbursement to employees. I don't live in California, and I don't know how it works, but it might be worth mentioning to someone in the know, or (very cautiously) to your employer.

 

[EverettNo1]

1SlowFormula- thanks for the links!
dragonballz- I think that's more true for superintendents. The highest paid tradesman I work with gets $30/hr, and he's just scraping by. Both these jobs are more for the experience and for self-betterment, and I have always loved wrenching.
skin- IIRC I think he did say 3/8" air ratchet, I just didn't want to spend 2x the money for 3/8" and 1/2" impacts. going to invest in an adapter though. Probably going to need a ball peen hammer, or would a combo steel/plastic or brass be more versatile?
Southern- Thanks for the look-up advice! Do you know where Bosch is made? What would be a good size for the Channel Lock Filter Wrench? And I'd rather stay in the green than the red lol
CWP1616L- If I don't go here I'm sure I would sign my life away. haha
0.511MeV- Thanks for the knowledge, I didn't know that.
bcradio- I think it was a 3/8" now that I think of it, I'll probably get an adapter so I don't need 2x the sockets right now
Futremechanic- Thanks for the tips! I clean like crazy at my current job as jobsite b***h lol
jetmech09- That would be a huge plus if taps and dies were supplied for me. Hemostats are for?? And the automatic strippers are pretty cool, my friend has a pair (not Snappy though). Good advice with the borrowing
KEH- I've thought about that, and that seems like a good idea, I've thought about it before.
SKAutomotive- Hahaha thank you for the words of wisdom, I do appreciate it. Construction can be just as bad though. 5 gallon buckets grow legs and run away if you don't keep your eye on them for a while.
jmm- You would be correct to assume I'm a novice. Your deal sounds better! when can I start? lol. And I don't mind spending the money on professional tools, as long as they will last me a long time. I do agree though that it would be best for me to not have to make such a large initial investment for tools. I'll try to keep my eyes and ears more open to European tools as well. I'll have to look into that and possibly bring it up in the future!

I have a few more questions:
-Snap-On's cordless 14.4v drill (CDR4450) seems like a $200 logo and Snap-On's word that it's made in the US, would that be correct? Unless there's something I'm missing, it seems very overpriced.
-For a tap and die set, Snappy's 117 piece set has a lot of stuff, including drill bits and extracting screws, yes I know it's almost $500, but I hate the thought of 1) paying twice as much buying 2 sets at different times, and 2) thinking I'm prepared for a task, but have to waste time getting an odd tap or die because I didn't have it

 

[SKAutomotive]

Construction doesn't end in a constant fight to feed your family on a broken pay system known as flat ****...er...rate.

 

[EverettNo1]

what are the drawbacks with it? And this isn't a career choice (not as of yet) but a job to learn more and broaden my skills really

 

[SKAutomotive]

what are the drawbacks with it? And this isn't a career choice (not as of yet) but a job to learn more and broaden my skills really

Here are the drawbacks summed up into a nice little nutshell. Thanks to this economy and more and more dumb people buying cars and thinking they need nothing to last forever the last month I have been required to come into work for my normal 50 hours, got paid 40 one week, 37.7 the second week, 27.9 the third week, 13.7 the fourth and this week I will get 42.3.

 

[EverettNo1]

why were you unable to get paid for your work??

 

[SKAutomotive]

why were you unable to get paid for your work??

I did get paid for my work. It's flat rate, which means you don't get paid to be there, you only get paid for what you work on and they set how many hours each job is worth. Which means no cars come in, you go without a check.

 

[EverettNo1]

I did get paid for my work. It's flat rate, which means you don't get paid to be there, you only get paid for what you work on and they set how many hours each job is worth. Which means no cars come in, you go without a check.

I see, that is a really flawed system. And I assume whoever quotes is the one who sets the time, and I don't doubt they deflate estimated time to compete with other places

 

[Skin]

I see, that is a really flawed system. And I assume whoever quotes is the one who sets the time, and I don't doubt they deflate estimated time to compete with other places

flat rate times pulled from thin air dont really exist, its manufacturer or book supplied. Its also more of a dealer thing, at least around here. Any decent inde shop would most likely be hourly.

 

[trexdoink]

On that tap and die set, there is a huge difference between a machinists set and a cheap set. It's like buying a knife. Look around an find a good old set and replace anything broken with good quality from someone like msc or another machinists tool supply place. You can save some money if you look around. Don't get too stuck on that Snap-On name, for some things it's the best, for others like impacts ( unless its cordless then go snap on ) its a waste of money to pay double for impact sockets and an impact. Buy snappy ratchets or really good gloves... No exceptions. It hurts when a crapsman ratchet shells out and you punch an intake manifold.

 

[ironmutt]

get only what you need as you need it plan ahead , set a tool budget weekly and make sure you stick to it if for some reason you end up not staying with the job make sure you pay off what ever you bought off the tool truck . cause if you mess them over and get a job at another shop they remember and will tell every shop they stop at in town about it .

 

[EverettNo1]

good idea on the tap and die set. I do agree some of snappy's stuff is paying extra for the name, I just don't know yet which tools are overpriced. Found a 25 piece S-K 1/2 shallow impact set for $165, and 19 piece SAE for $160. I will definitely have to set a budget or I'll end up broke quickly. Good info on the tool truck, a good thing to keep in the back of my mind for sure.

 

[Mr. Hill]

A good magnet, set of picks,multimeter, and a good flash light and drop light. Besides the basics these always come in handy.

 

[pipsters]

I am replacing the transmission in my car this week. I am using a 1/2" impact (Earthquake) and a 1/4" air ratchet with swivels almost exclusively. I do break the bolts with a 3/8" ratchet if they are bigger (12, 13, 14mm) but then spin them out with my 1/4" air ratchet. I like how quiet and light it is.

I own a 3/8" air ratchet but never use it, one of these days I'll have to put it up on CL.

I wouldn't go too crazy with these tools. For one you are just getting started. Times will be lean for a little bit. There was a guy who posted on here some time ago complaining about his Craftsman tools, after 8 years they started to wear out. Instead of getting new ones from Sears with the warranty he bought Snap-On.

For $2500 I have a pretty dang well equipped tool box w/ Craftsman USA stuff. I can't even imagine how much it would cost from Snap-On.

 

[greasemonkey44]

are you working in automotive?

 

[west wind]

I wouldn't be able to sleep tonight if I didn't say this:

Run kid, run. Stay out of this industry. Stick with construction and a decent life.

Couldn't agree more. This field is like being slave driven by uneducated blue collar morons. You spend thousands of dollars on tools to worry if your bills are gonna get paid. You have arthrits and rely on daily pills by the time you hit thi.

But if you are determined, I recommend snap-on. No complaints about them. There tools always seem to do me right.

 

[Skin]

Couldn't agree more. This field is like being slave driven by uneducated blue collar morons.

Good thing there are no white collar jobs that suffer from this! Oh wait...

You have arthrits and rely on daily pills by the time you hit thirty.

Simple solution to this, exercise. How many mechanics do you see that are trully fit? The guys that go out on workmans comp are usually out of shape to begin with. Not saying injury cant happen in a physically demanding job but take care of yourself and your chances drop drastically. Likewise dont be friggan superman hefting heavy stuff around on your own. I use to love when the old guys gave me **** about asking for a hand on something heavy, guess who spent more time out of work?

 

[EverettNo1]

pipsters- let me know when you do, I may be interested.
greasemonkey44- Currently in construction basically jobsite b****. I will be working hopefully full time this summer. I intend for this job to be just that as I go through CC then to a four year. I want to have a wide perspective of different fields, and I love working on cars as well.
west wind- thanks for the insight. Construction has it's pros and cons as well. Like I said to greasemonkey, this job is meant to better myself, broaden my skills, and learn a trade hands on. About the arthritis, I started construction over the summer, and after 2 months, my left ankle was so messed up from all the walking and such that I did (a few miles a day, up, down stairs, carrying bags of concrete, toilets) that I still limp on it in the morning. Both trades I understand are hard on the body, and that's just the nature of the beast.

 

[greasemonkey44]

greasemonkey44- Currently in construction basically jobsite b****. I will be working hopefully full time this summer. I intend for this job to be just that as I go through CC then to a four year. I want to have a wide perspective of different fields, and I love working on cars as well.
Like I said to greasemonkey, this job is meant to better myself, broaden my skills, and learn a trade hands on. About the arthritis, I started construction over the summer, and after 2 months, my left ankle was so messed up from all the walking and such that I did (a few miles a day, up, down stairs, carrying bags of concrete, toilets) that I still limp on it in the morning. Both trades I understand are hard on the body, and that's just the nature of the beast.

Ha i feel you on the ankle, i shattered mine a few years back
the job can be fairly demanding, physically and mentally
i have great job satisfaction and i earn good money, alot of the naysayers and run away guys are burnt out on the job....its a risk you run in any job
its great having a specific skill set that is recession proof, peoples cars are still breaking down

Tools wise - i used and still use alot of harbor freight, especially impact sockets and their earthquake line of air tools
then i bought alot of grey pneumatic and sunex


i bought alot of snap on, after i was sure i would be in this trade for a long time

 

[EverettNo1]

that must have been a difficult recovery. And yea, they can. There are those that work hard, and those that work smart. Those who do both end up telling you what to do. It definitely is a recession proof trade, which is quite the opposite from construction.

Just my thoughts, I think it would be good to invest in some tool truck stuff, but from all the advice given, I think I'm just going to keep the tool truck brands to ratchets and wrenches, not sure about air or electric tools, I'm going to think on that one for a while. But punches, files, picks, strippers (my fave), tap and die, sockets are most likely not going to be off the truck

 

[yogitech]

Mechanic jobs are most definitely recession and economy based! This is the worst productive years of my carrier, and its getting progressively worse.... Keep it as a hobby or a check mark on the belt, you'll most likely hate working on them soon. Good luck!

 

[pipsters]

I work with quite a few ex-mechanics (A&Ps). They all quit because they hating being outside or in a hanger where it's hot or cold, crawling on the ground, etc. It takes a big toll on your body. I work a blue collar job but wear a tie to work, and operate "heavy equipment". You think tools are $$ I spent roughly $60k in today's dollars on a piece of plastic.

Honestly why don't you just buy cheaper tools and replace specific ones as needed/they break/don't perform?

 

[EverettNo1]

yogitech- I feel they're less based on the economy then working for a company that builds and maintains properties! I'm lucky to find a job in the field right now. And a shop doesn't relocate every few years, to possibly much farther away. I currently commute like 40 miles just to and from the site every day, which is nearing completion (if the suits make their minds up on fixtures). The next site will be another 20 mile commute per day, and as a student, cuts out valuable time to study and relax.
pipsters- Both fields can be tough on the body, and working in the auto field at this particular place will most likely be less damaging than my current job. And I want to have durable, reliable, long lasting, and well warrantied core tools that I will use all the time. I hate buying something cheap just to have it break and then buy something expensive to replace it.