****** Bell Housing thread stripped need assitance

[Skyline]

Without removing the ******, I'd run a tap through, then put in a new bolt. You need to get a set of those tap holders that look like deep sockets. Like these:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=675369&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

They require no more space to turn in than a regular socket. The key is getting a strait shot to the bolt. If you lower the back end of the ****** as much as possible, you can probably get a strait shot to the bolt with the right combination of extensions. You'll probably need about 4' of extensions, perhaps with a wobble extension thrown in there at some point.

 

[jjoel]

pulled a transmission from my 3-series a couple months ago... i feel your pain working under jackstands!

 

[TheCarbideRat]

make the bolt [or a bolt] into a self-tapper. Diagonal grooves cut with a hacksaw, or something to that effect.

You also might try to slightly reduce the diameter of the [EDIT: the END of the bolt, slight taper] bolt. SLIGHTLY.
And use Loctite. Good luck.

 

[DARKSCOPE001]

most motor and transmission blocks / housings these days are aluminum. so a heli-coil needs to be put in the hole to help support the threads or it will just strip. the good news is if your really that stressed out about putting all the bolts in. heli coils are easy enough to uninstall and reinstall. the bad news is tho your going to have to have good access to the area where you wish to heli coil. so unless its a huge deal to you i would just forget it and live with it. fix it the next time you have the motor-****** apart.

 

[JamieK]

Is it a through hole? Can you put a longer bolt in, and a nut on the back side?

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

Why try to hack it? Just pull the damn trans back out. Unless you put everything back together first then put the bell housing bolts on last, it shouldn't be too bad. what is it 7 bellhousing bolts, 5 or 6 torque converter bolts.... just pull the damn thing, look at the hole and see if you can run a thread restorer through it, or heli coil, or whatever... And make sure your "pal" does most of the work. out and back in.

 

[chicane]

Without removing the ******, I'd run a tap through, then put in a new bolt. You need to get a set of those tap holders that look like deep sockets. Like these:

Maybe I am not explaining it well but there is no tapping anything in with the ****** still installed. No way I have to stick a two foot plus extension WITH a knuckle to even get to that hole. It would be difficult to tap even with the ****** out. I would have to loosen the engine mounts break out the engine hoist just to kinda get it at an angle where I could get to it in a straight line. The hole is nudged behind the wall of the ****** tunnel.

 

[chicane]

make the bolt [or a bolt] into a self-tapper. Diagonal grooves cut with a hacksaw, or something to that effect.

You also might try to slightly reduce the diameter of the bolt. SLIGHTLY.
And use Loctite. Good luck.

How do I do that?

 

[chicane]

Is it a through hole? Can you put a longer bolt in, and a nut on the back side?

Unfortunately it is not.

 

[smothers33]

How do I do that?

i belive this is what hes getting at. http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-tap-from-a-bolt/
using a hacksaw or cutoff tool would work also and be a little faster but either way make sure you run a die over the bolt after you are done to make sure the "tap" you made has nice clean threads

 

[xj31]

i belive this is what hes getting at. http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-tap-from-a-bolt/
using a hacksaw or cutoff tool would work also and be a little faster but either way make sure you run a die over the bolt after you are done to make sure the "tap" you made has nice clean threads

This

 

[TheCarbideRat]

i belive this is what hes getting at.

yup.

 

[firebox40dash5]

Nothing tighter than a crossthread.

On a lot of vehicles, I'd probably be in the "screw it, it's got x more bolts and a few dowels still" camp. But that diagram looked like just 1 dowel (that can't be right, can it?), and with that and just 3 other real bolts and aluminum engine/trans, I'd figure out some kinda fix.

If you can drop the trans back down, we've got a handy little Nes thread repair tool at the shop, it's saved me on a couple bolts that always seem to be both threaded into some soft, important part, and utterly impossible to start by hand.

 

[johno]

Try a locking bolt, same idea as a nyloc. It won't be super tight, but the bolt will stay in place.

McMaster Carr.

 

[MechManiac]

Hey man I had the exact car you have. If you're taking the time to do all that strenuous work (I only have stands to work on so I know it's a pain in the ..) I suggest you take a few breather hours, pull that trans out, support engine and lower it for some room... and clean the threads with a tap.

someone mentioned a socket that holds the tap ....this would help a lot.

Got some nice replies and I learned a few things in this thread (no pun intended) but if it's worth doing, it's worth doing RIGHT...esp in a car.