Bench Grinder Switch

[Kscardsfan]

The grinder at our shop is a stud horse for us, but the switch finally gave up the ghost after 50 or so years of indifferent maintenance, long periods of sitting, dust, grime and seasonal/temporary employees. This is the switch we need:

Replacement Switch for Bench Grinders

Over 60 years in the business, with warehouses located in Warren, Michigan and Tulsa, Oklahoma. Place your order now via phone, fax, or the web at www.wttool.

www.wttool.com

But I was wondering if anyone knew if Grainger sold them/what to call it to find it? Purchasing contracts make it easier to buy stuff from approved vendors than to try and just order a part online and be done with it. Thank you all.

 

[lilredex]

When my Baldor needed a new switch, I installed a switched box on the post below it.

 

[Pinemarten]

My buddy's bench grinder switch decided to give up on Sunday. Local tiny hardware store closed, and 20 miles to town.
So it was improvise time. I went to the parts bins and there was a dash switch for an International truck NIB. Checked the
amperage rating vs the failed switch, verified the line side and installed. Works like a charm!

 

[Kscardsfan]

When my Baldor needed a new switch, I installed a switched box on the post below it.

It's a government shop, so we have to do it the way it is supposed to be done.

 

[kbuhagiar]

It's a government shop, so we have to do it the way it is supposed to be done.

Ex-civil servant here. Been there!

Do you have any accounts or purchase orders with any tool suppliers (besides Grainger)?
Grainger was always our go-to, but when that failed we also had an account with White Cap that came in handy.

Maybe check with your purchasing department for other potential suppliers? Some other division or department may have an open PO with some other potential supplier.

If all else fails, can you do a 'petty cash' purchase for the switch? We were allowed to spend up to $200 (and then get reimbursed) if we could show just cause.

Good luck!

 

[The Cobbler]

.... a dash switch for an International truck NIB. Checked the
amperage rating vs the failed switch, verified the line side and installed. Works like a charm!

but I bet it's not rated for the grinder voltage tho

 

[The Cobbler]

it has a SKU that seems to bring other hits. maybe an email & a photo to your supplier(s)?

 

[Zeus36]

If it was in my Govt. shop, I'd ask the safety guy if you could go with a momentary foot switch as it would be safer than the factory finger operated switch. Pitch them the "Machine upgraded for Operator safety". Management and Safety will likely sign off on that. Bypass and remove the old switch with a cover in place and label the grinder as "Foot Switch Operation Only". No more walking away from a running machine, no more reaching to the switch with one hand while holding the work in the other hand either for start up or shut down.

 

[Davefr]

but I bet it's not rated for the grinder voltage tho

...and an inductive load. Switches that start electric motors need to be rated to supply the in rush of starting current vs. just the running amps.

 

[seber]

I bet you have an account with McMaster Carr. There isn't much they don't carry.

 

[Pinemarten]

...and an inductive load. Switches that start electric motors need to be rated to supply the in rush of starting current vs. just the running amps.

Here are the switch specs: Switch Rating: 20A 12V DC; 10A/125VAC; 6A/250VAC. I figured 10A/125 should cover the inrush current for a 1HP motor. Feel free to educate me if I messed up.

 

[American Locomotive]

If you have an account with McMaster-Carr, you should try them. Even if they don't have it in the catalog, you can email them through their website, tell them what you are looking for, and they can usually source it. I'm rather certain that switch is not a standard part.

Here are the switch specs: Switch Rating: 20A 12V DC; 10A/125VAC; 6A/250VAC. I figured 10A/125 should cover the inrush current for a 1HP motor. Feel free to educate me if I messed up.

Motors are known as inductive loads, which can cause sparks and arcs and high in-rush currents. So even though the switch has enough amperage to be fine based on motor nameplate, it may not be able to take the abuse the motor gives the switch at start up (or turn off). Usually if a switch is motor rated, it will have a horsepower rating printed on it.

But truthfully, it will probably be fine.

 

[Kscardsfan]

If it was in my Govt. shop, I'd ask the safety guy if you could go with a momentary foot switch as it would be safer than the factory finger operated switch. Pitch them the "Machine upgraded for Operator safety". Management and Safety will likely sign off on that. Bypass and remove the old switch with a cover in place and label the grinder as "Foot Switch Operation Only". No more walking away from a running machine, no more reaching to the switch with one hand while holding the work in the other hand either for start up or shut down.

That’s a real good idea. Momentary switch is a real safe bet.

 

[Pinemarten]

Ten days later...........how is the "stud horse" grinder doing?

 

[Sawdust_]

If it was in my Govt. shop, I'd ask the safety guy if you could go with a momentary foot switch as it would be safer than the factory finger operated switch. Pitch them the "Machine upgraded for Operator safety". Management and Safety will likely sign off on that. Bypass and remove the old switch with a cover in place and label the grinder as "Foot Switch Operation Only". No more walking away from a running machine, no more reaching to the switch with one hand while holding the work in the other hand either for start up or shut down.

This is what I did too. Easy more convenient and safer.