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Bench Lathe Advice

kehster

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Hello to everyone. This is my first post on this site. I am extremely interested in machining and am looking for a lathe and hopefully later a mill, but due to a limited workspace, and budget, I am in the "bench top" market. And as I have zero experience it is probably a good place to start. I have looked at Little Machine Shop, Grizzly, Harbor Freight, and Big Dog. I am also just a bit over an hour away from Baleigh, so I wouldn't have to pay freight. I would appreciate any and all advice as to thoughts or experience anyone may have had with these brands.
 
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rsanter

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Get the biggest lathe that you can afford, find, and fit in your garage on your bench.
Bench top machines tend to be smaller, lighter and lighter duty and with a lathe you want as much mass and stiffness as you can get.
This will make for a longer life of the machine, less vibration, better precision and more potential capacity that you can do

Keep in mind, that once you put it on the bench you have lost that bench space. A similar sixed floor model and you shorten the bench is a good option

Bob

Bob
 

Zeke

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Don't spend a ton of money until you know what you're getting into. Tooling will cost a ton so a good used lathe with plenty of tooling is always a good start. However, some have been run into junk. Learn what to look for by way of damage and worn out parts. There are lots of Youtubes.

BTW, welcome to the GJ. I have a HF 3 in 1 unit which is no longer sold by HF. It does make chips and does what I need which is just handy parts, nothing too precision.
 

JoeFin

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You want a machine constructed of "Grey Iron" which is specially formulated to absorb vibration. The Grizzly, and Happy Fart are constructed of mystery metal (mixture of scrap metal) as is actually quite soft

Additionally the machining performed on Asian Hobby Machines is particularly notoriously bad. I had a Grizzly Mill in which the saddle was machined .050" out of Trammel across 8.000"

Better off finding a professional grade second op lathe and putting a little effort into it


Here is a picture of the saddle off the Grizzly Mill when I dusted it off on my surface grinder. You can see on the right the "High Spot" created by the "Plastic Handled Jib Lock"

You can also see how the saddle appears to be "Warped" which I later found out to be the original milling was out of "Trammel"

cross-feed-3.jpg
 
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A_Pmech

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Howdy Kehster,

Welcome to GJ!

I can't be of much help on picking your machinery, as what I work with is much bigger. However, I can offer a few thoughts:

Unfortunately, there were relatively few high-quality bench lathes made by a relative handful of manufacturers. Probably the most well-known manufacturer of bench lathes here in America was South Bend with Craftsman / Clausing coming in second. Outside the US, I think the title goes to Myford in the #1 spot.

Besides those, and perhaps a few other brands that don't come to mind, all the hobby-suitable bench lathes are made in Asia. From what I hear, the quality standard varies from atrocious to passably decent. Therefore, it behooves you to do your research before purchasing one of these machines.

Listen to the people who work as machinists in their day job and have these machines for hobby work at home. They will provide the most objective evaluations based upon their experience working with commercial quality machinery.
 

Ign

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Logan made some decent bench tops. If you must go new I'd get the best that Enco has to offer, it's unlikely their import machines are complete junk like HF. Avoid the weird stuff like Birmingham. Jet is super hit or miss. The 6"'Craftsmans have a cult following but are really light. I'd shoot for a 12x36 at an absolute minimum, 13x40 is much better.
 

larry_g

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Hello to everyone. This is my first post on this site. I am extremely interested in machining and am looking for a lathe and hopefully later a mill, but due to a limited workspace, and budget, I am in the "bench top" market. And as I have zero experience it is probably a good place to start. I have looked at Little Machine Shop, Grizzly, Harbor Freight, and Big Dog. I am also just a bit over an hour away from Baleigh, so I wouldn't have to pay freight. I would appreciate any and all advice as to thoughts or experience anyone may have had with these brands.

Since you have no experience look at your first lathe as a textbook. As such most any working lathe will serve your purpose. It will be a learning tool. Above you have had a lotof suggestions of what different members think is necessary but they are all what the member needs and may not be suitable for you. You will have to tell us what you intend to machine with this tool. If your machining parts for RC cars and planes is one thing and parts for real cars and planes will require a totally different machine. So tell us your needs in the machine and then maybe I can tell you what you need, not what I need.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Adam.C

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Lots of resources on the internet for this subject. Many yahoo groups you can join. GJ is probably not the best source.

Obviously you need to figure out what you want to do, what your budget is, and how much space you can dedicate to your machining.

For lathes, you can buy lots of things that will meet your need from antique craftsman/atlas lathes, or South bend 9's, to the many asian models. My favorite of the asian models is the Sieg SC6. You may find the same lathe in various paint schemes and sold by various sellers (Grizzly etc). If you want a dirt cheap starter lathe, you might be able to find a 9X20 HF or grizzly version laying around craigslist. These are NOT good lathes, but you can learn on one.

For mills, there really are no serious US made table top mills. But when you talk bench top, you need to think long and hard about what that means to you. A Bridgeport with a short table doesn't take up much more space than the popular Rong Fu models (RF-20, etc) table top models. The advantage of the RF-20 mills is that they can be disassembled into man portable components. If this is not your concern, definitely go with a Bridgeport. I know they seem big and serious looking, but they really aren't that big (tho they are seriously heavy). Parts are readily available and there is tons of knowledge about buying, moving restoring and using these things. Better still, they are often cheaper than new mills in this size range. If you have to go with a new mill, check out the Sieg SX4 or RF-45? square column mills. If they are too large, the SX3 might be something to consider.

These Sieg tools I'm sideways recommending are really pieces of junk. But if you are smart and patient and have some good mechanical skills, you can fix them and learn to use them to produce good parts. Consider them machine "kits".

My advice is: step one, start collecting decent quality mensuration tools. With good measuring tools and skills, you can make all sorts of things work. Advice is to start with a surface plate with one side at least 18". Used Starrett pink or new Enco black granite. Used black granite should really be calibrated before you buy it or be so cheap you can afford to have it calibrated yourself.

Next, granite square, and Starrett Master Squares (#20) in a couple sizes. Then Noga arms (probably going to need at least 2- one to fit in a collet, other with a mag base) and a couple good dial test indicators. 0-30-0, and a tenths indicator. This is just a very basic start.

After that, I'd start looking for gage blocks to check out your measuring equipment. Tools, then tools to check tools, then still more tools to check the tools that check tools. Sounds crazy I know, but there's really no choice. Otherwise you will never know what you can trust and what you can't. See, hobby machinists are at a distinct disadvantage. Real machine shops either have all this inspection gear, or bought tools from trust worthy sources. But in machine tools, "trust worthy sources" cost a small fortune. So you and I are stuck with used or chinese, neither of which can be trusted.

I had a Sieg SX2. The column was out of straight close to .010. From the factory it was pretty far out of square (not in the adjustable direction). And the spindle wasn't parallel to the column. All easily fixed once found.

Its a steep learning curve, but I found it really fun.
 

My Old Tools

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I second the Logan 210. All parts are still available from Scott Logan at Logan Actuator. Pretty much everything can be found on eBay as well. The Southbend 9" machines can do good work as well.
 

paulsomlo

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Don't waste your time with those little 7x14 machines. You didn't say which Baleigh Industrial you're near, but if it's the one in Wisconsin, you'll have no problem finding a used lathe - start with Craigslist. A 9" or 10" South Bend would be a good start, readily available used, as are parts. Still considered a small lathe by many, and rightfully so, but leagues ahead of those small benchtop machines they offer at Harbor Freight.
 

GarageWarrior

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Westerly, RI
Hello to everyone. This is my first post on this site. I am extremely interested in machining and am looking for a lathe and hopefully later a mill, but due to a limited workspace, and budget, I am in the "bench top" market. And as I have zero experience it is probably a good place to start. I have looked at Little Machine Shop, Grizzly, Harbor Freight, and Big Dog. I am also just a bit over an hour away from Baleigh, so I wouldn't have to pay freight. I would appreciate any and all advice as to thoughts or experience anyone may have had with these brands.

Why do you want one? Lathe/Mill are IMHO some of the least practical tools for a DIY/general repairs shop. They are heavy to move, take lots of space, have limited use in common repair work, and you'll be forever buying extra tooling, metal stock, etc.

If you occasionally need machining work done - just take your stuff to a machine/fab shop, and you'll likely come ahead on all 3 - cost, time AND quality.

If you want to get in to it for a hobby - may be take a machining/metalworking class first, and figure out if it's for you? They'll have not just lathe, but mill, horizontal and vertical band saws, surface grinder, iron worker, assortment of jigs and machinist tools.
 
OP
K

kehster

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I'm located in Oshkosh WI. Thanks to all who have sent replies to my post. I have taken it all in and have broadened my search. I'm getting near retirement and don't want to sit on my **** and watch TV all day. I have always loved "hands on" work, and have worked in the HVAC-R field. I can't honestly say that I have a definite project in mind, but I do love putting "gadgets" together with small motors, such as an auger feed to use on my smoker, and in doing those projects find that a part I might need isn't readily available at the local hardware store, if at all. Being bale to make the part myself would be very helpful, and also fun.
 

Carla

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I'm located in Oshkosh WI. Thanks to all who have sent replies to my post. I have taken it all in and have broadened my search. I'm getting near retirement and don't want to sit on my **** and watch TV all day. I have always loved "hands on" work, and have worked in the HVAC-R field. I can't honestly say that I have a definite project in mind, but I do love putting "gadgets" together with small motors, such as an auger feed to use on my smoker, and in doing those projects find that a part I might need isn't readily available at the local hardware store, if at all. Being bale to make the part myself would be very helpful, and also fun.

Hello, kehster,

You've done one thing right, so far, asking for second-hand advice, rather than getting expensive first-hand experience and becoming unhappy.

Unfortunately, there is 'no free lunch'. The small bench lathe you seek is also sought by many, many others, and prices for serviceable ones will reflect that scarcity.

The very term 'bench lathe' can be confusing. At one time, many years ago, it referred to a type of lathe which was specialised for very small work, and did not have a 'carriage' like larger lathes, nor power feeds.

Over time, 'bench lathe' has come to generally mean a miniature version of an 'engine lathe', which has a carriage and a lead-screw for cutting threads, and, usually, a power feed for carriage longitudinal travel.

Unfortunately, quite a number of oriental makers have flooded the market with 'joke machines', aimed at newbies to machining. One of the 'authorities on the subject', Forrest Addy (whose writings you may find on practicalmachinist.com), has described them charitably as 'a do-it-yourself lathe kit'.

There were several makes of miniature lathes which are good ones, but you will have a challenge before you to find one, and to find one which hasn't been badly worn by an abusive previous owner.

Of these, the South Bend and Logan makes are the most often found.

(there are several other good makes, the Sheldon, for example....Dan Sheldon, now deceased, was a friend of mine.....his family built good lathes.....and, there are others......research and learn, before you invest your $$$)

They can be found, most often, sadly, at estate sales.

To learn what you will need to know before you invest in any lathe, go to the practical machinist internet board, confess yourself a newbie, and ask for guidance.....literally hundreds of newbies have done so, over the years, and the old-timers there, many of whom are retired machinists or engineers, patiently take the time to help out the newbies.......partly cos they remember being newbies themselves, many years ago, and partly cos they enjoy seeing the 'success stories' of this or that newbie showing off photos of a restored lathe or mill, and precision work they have done. (put in your query in the 'antique machinery and history' page of the practical machinist board, or the South Bend people's page)

The obvious 'starting point' for consideration of the purchase of any lathe is to first determine the 'work envelope' you may wish or need to have.......you can do teeny-tiny parts on, say a 9" South Bend, or a Myford, but, if you have larger work in mind, those just won't do, as they simply haven't the power or rigidity to cut larger parts, except with whole days spent doing slow, gentle light cuts. (and, yes, some hobbyists have had the patience to do just that.....you can see beautiful miniature steam engines and suchlike on the internet)

You also need to understand the level of precision you will require......'blacksmith' class work is one thing, 'common machine tolerances' is another, and ultra-precise 'instrument work', such as clock-building yet another.....'high-level precision costs money, how precisely do you need to work?'

On edit.........If you succeed in finding yourself a good serviceable small lathe, the next step is to correctly foundation it, if you want to do good work with it.......some years ago, I put in that info, from government specs back during the war, which has been saved as a 'sticky' post in the Monarch page of the practical machinist site.....read about how they did good work on small lathes, for the war effort.....the same principles apply today.

cheers

Carla
 
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bczygan

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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
You're in for it now...

Lathe
Drill press
Horizontal band saw
Vertical band saw
Disc sander
Bench grinder
Vertical mill
Surface grinder
Vise
Welder
Welding table
Surface plate

And tooling, fixtures and more tools!

Fun!
 

ClintNZ

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One thing I'd say is if local availability & budget is limited grab anything that comes up at the right price & isn't too flogged out, but try & get the size you want, then if you decide to upgrade most of your tooling will still be useful.

Why do you want one? Lathe/Mill are IMHO some of the least practical tools for a DIY/general repairs shop. They are heavy to move, take lots of space, have limited use in common repair work, and you'll be forever buying extra tooling, metal stock, etc.

.

What?? For the price of a decent battery drill I got myself an Atlas 10F plus some basic tooling. It's old, a bit worn out, but everything works & it has paid for itself many times over, made & refurbished all sorts of parts, made special tools, been lots of fun. It really has been a big step towards being more limited by time & imagination than by equipment in terms of what I can make.


Maybe in your town machine shops will do jobs for pennies but that sure isn't the case around here.

Cheers
Clint
 

dewalt378g

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Lots of good things about the actual machine already said here, but of tips, tricks and general learning I should mention Tubalcain's videos on youtube. If you're brand spank'n new to lathes this guy will get you going in the right direction. Also, someone mentioned The Practical Machinist website which is a fantastic forum with tons of info.
 
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GarageWarrior

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What?? For the price of a decent battery drill I got myself an Atlas 10F plus some basic tooling. It's old, a bit worn out, but everything works & it has paid for itself many times over, made & refurbished all sorts of parts, made special tools, been lots of fun. It really has been a big step towards being more limited by time & imagination than by equipment in terms of what I can make.


Maybe in your town machine shops will do jobs for pennies but that sure isn't the case around here.

Cheers
Clint

Local machinist charges $60/hr and has a 10' lathe, tig/mig, plasma, milling, cnc, surface grinder, all metal stock, tooling. I bring projects for work there. Brake rotors to NAPA.

Consider how much it costs to store all that machinery and supplies, time it takes to keep it sorted/organized, working, dry, clean. How much time it takes to setup for the one-off jobs, vs full time machinist at production shop.

And how much lathe/machine work is actually needed in a general repair shop?
 

Troutsqueezer

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I think it's called California, land of Prii
Every time this question comes up there are those whose first response is to label the Harbor Freight equipment as junk. What they fail to realize is that the most important piece of equipment when it comes to machining is your brain.

I've shown these before, they were all made on HF "junk". You be the judge. These are running engines made from bar stock.











 

Troutsqueezer

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Where in the world do you get a mini spark plug?!! Or did you make it?

I could have made it, many model engine builders do but I did get a little lazy and ordered it online. Not hard to find.

I think every machine you buy, even if you pay big bucks for it, will involve some sort of tweaking, from tramming to machining the bed and everything in between. In fact, this is a major part of the machining process. Making sure the setups will work and all parts are working within the parameters you need takes far more time than the actual machining of the part itself. The best part of machining (to me) is that you can think about how you are going to do your next setup no matter where you are, in the dentist office or making love. No, not making love... :D
 
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Adam.C

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That's really beautiful work but also a little misleading. My guess is that isn't out of the box performance. Just the surface finishes alone do not represent what one could reasonably expect from small HF machines. Nor is that just brain power. That takes experience and determination etc etc. Bigger better machines are easier to use.
 

sac02

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... lathes in Texas are 3 times the price of the Midwest, the atlas, craftsman, average is 800 to 2000, all the sellers on Craigs think they have the golden idol ...

This is the truth, I have been searching CL all over TX on and off for over two years for a lathe that :

1. is decently priced (like, less than new MSRP...)
2. hasn't been collecting rust and weeds in the backyard for 30 years.

Only 2 criteria (relatively realistic, IMO), and I still don't have a lathe...
 

MotoDave

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I think one of the shorter Atlas/Craftsman 9" or 12" swing lathes would not be the worst thing in the world to learn with, they're belt drive so if you do something stupid they'll just slip the belt instead of self destructing. Find one with a quick change gearbox if you can, although you'll pay for it. Change gears are a pain in the ***.

I went from a HF mini lathe to a 12 x 36 craftsman to my current 13" LeBlond, and made usable parts on all of them.
 

Steinmetz

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That's really beautiful work but also a little misleading. My guess is that isn't out of the box performance. Just the surface finishes alone do not represent what one could reasonably expect from small HF machines. Nor is that just brain power. That takes experience and determination etc etc. Bigger better machines are easier to use.

But that's just your guess. You are in no position to claim he's being untruthful in his assertion.
 

Steve from Socal

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But that's just your guess. You are in no position to claim he's being untruthful in his assertion.

Ah,
Like a grinder makes a welder, a file makes a lathe hand! There are areas that have some tool marks on them in the above photos.

I am not going to condemn the HF bench top lathe; I look at like a procedure trainer. Long ago when I was an instrument flight instructor we used table top procedure trainers. While it AIN'T flying, it develops the methods and thought process used in instrument flight.

The small bench lathes mentioned here while functional to a degree are not designed or built as high precision tools. There are some very small lathes that do have high precision but, they would be overkill to learn on.

The mention of a flat belt lathe as a learning tool is spot on, they are forgiving of new user mistakes. We all have to start somewhere and a small underpowered lathe that makes the user work to get a respectable part is a great learning experience. It is also a small commitment to an unknown diversion. The idea of buying a big expensive lathe without knowing if machine work even suits the person is not wise IMHO.

I recall the first lathe I ever ran and remember how it was a magical machine that could take plain chunks of metal and make things out of them. I was about 10~11 years old and it was a South Bend 10 inch lathe. No matter what age you start your passion for machine work, we all have to take the first step.

Learning to machine on high powered tools is like learning to drive in a F-1 car. It is even more IMPORTANT to learn on a low power machine IF you are learning by self guided study. A formal class with a competent instructor can short circuit the learning curve and develop proper habits the first time. I can't stress enough that a basic machine shop class or two is time well spent if you have the urge to buy machine tools.

Steve
 

ClintNZ

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The mention of a flat belt lathe as a learning tool is spot on, they are forgiving of new user mistakes.

One thing to watch with the old flat belt machines is that many have a plain bearing headstock, not fun if it's worn out. The slightly newer generation stuff like my old Atlas 10F tends to have taper roller bearings & V-belt drive. A power feed on the cross slide is another feature that is really nice to have & doesn't appear on some earlier machines. The next step up would be to get something with a prismatic bed.

Cheers
Clint
 

Troutsqueezer

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I think it's called California, land of Prii
That's really beautiful work but also a little misleading. My guess is that isn't out of the box performance. Just the surface finishes alone do not represent what one could reasonably expect from small HF machines. Nor is that just brain power. That takes experience and determination etc etc. Bigger better machines are easier to use.

The finishes are mostly the product of a buffing wheel and good ol' elbow grease.



I detailed some of the process of making these on part of my website (link below). Just click on the steam engine link. You can also watch the video that is linked beneath one of the pictures in my first post.
 

Hephaestus29

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Visit Mr Pete's you tube channel, he has quite a few lathes. He was a shop teacher and has about 300 + videos on machining !

I have a Smithy & one of the worst things I can say about this Import is that the ways are not hardened & the least little thing you drop on them puts a ding or nick in them.
 
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kehster

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Wow, so much help here, and I have taken the advice and started looking around at different sites and have found many used lathes. Some in not so good shape and others in very good shape, and everything in between. I have found a gentleman selling a Craftsman 101.07301 lathe with a quite a bit of tooling. The lathe is very clean and has been well cared for. All the gears are in good shape and the threading gears are all there. He is asking $700.00 for it. I don't intend to try to build a space shuttle, but rather want to enjoy the process of learning how to operate the machine, and have fun in the process. I hope to get to the point where I can turn out small parts for many of the projects that I like to put together. Would this be a good "starter" lathe?
 

Fretters

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No idea on that model, or whether it's worth that price, but there's not really such a thing as a bad starter lathe, IMHO. That's obviously excluding stuff which has been worn to death, suffered bad damage etc. Things like size, features, precision etc. are all down to what you're planning on doing. It's amazing just what work can be done with even the most basic of things, especially if you're also willing to resort to files and suchlike if needs be. If that one has a decent amount of good tooling with it, that in itself can be worth a small fortune. Getting a lathe itself is only part of the battle, both financially and with regards to what it's capable of.

Now there will be some who'll likely say that it's not much cop, it's too lightweight, too small etc., but again, those are down to personal requirements and/or expectations. If it suits your needs and you're happy with the condition and price, only you can decide.
 

mattygee

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Also check out http://www.machinistweb.com/forum/index.php

and

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/forum.php

I know someone mentioned Practical Machinist but they can get a bit snooty with hobbyists, going so far as to ban certain machine names from even being mentioned. Its a great forum, but probably not the best for a total noob (as I still pretty much am). They do have an active South Bend forum with lots of good info.

I bought a lightly used but pretty well cannibalized Atlas 10F that took the better part of a year and more money than I want to recall to get functional. It wasa good learning experience, but maybe not the sort of thing you're in the market for. South Bend machines are also common and better quality overall, but many have been in school/shop setting with the commensurate amount of wear and parts are more expensive.

One thing I will say, because of their commonality, in the older machine arena, Atlas and South Bend forums seem to have the largest and friendliest followers/members. In the Chinese/Taiwan realm, Grizzly seems to have a pretty strong following. I looked at the Baleighs, and correct me if I'm wrong, but it seemed the benchtop lathes were pretty much all change gear as opposed to having a quick change gear box. Not a deal killer for some folks, but I like a change box.

Good luck!
 

larry_g

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Wow, so much help here, and I have taken the advice and started looking around at different sites and have found many used lathes. Some in not so good shape and others in very good shape, and everything in between. I have found a gentleman selling a Craftsman 101.07301 lathe with a quite a bit of tooling. The lathe is very clean and has been well cared for. All the gears are in good shape and the threading gears are all there. He is asking $700.00 for it. I don't intend to try to build a space shuttle, but rather want to enjoy the process of learning how to operate the machine, and have fun in the process. I hope to get to the point where I can turn out small parts for many of the projects that I like to put together. Would this be a good "starter" lathe?

If I got the numbers right that is the 6" Atlas lathe. That was the first lathe I had and I learned a bit with that machine. It took me about 6 months to figure out that it was to small for MY needs. Trying to turn steel was a lesson in patience, and over 1" dia steel was not worth trying. I think the price is on the high side. However you can recover most of your investment when you move up to another lathe.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Fretters

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It took me about 6 months to figure out that it was to small for MY needs.

That's the important part when it comes to figuring what size of machine one needs, IMHO. I spent ages with a 3-1/2" Warwick, (7" in your terms over there), and that one was the same. Came across quite a few parts I needed to turn which it just wasn't large enough for, and trying to do some things on it would have tested the patience of God himself. :D Turned out quite a good few parts on that machine though, and enjoyed every moment of having it. It had few good points, but it did admirably within its limitations, once one became accustomed to its quirks.
 

Carla

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
672
Wow, so much help here, and I have taken the advice and started looking around at different sites and have found many used lathes. Some in not so good shape and others in very good shape, and everything in between. I have found a gentleman selling a Craftsman 101.07301 lathe with a quite a bit of tooling. The lathe is very clean and has been well cared for. All the gears are in good shape and the threading gears are all there. He is asking $700.00 for it. I don't intend to try to build a space shuttle, but rather want to enjoy the process of learning how to operate the machine, and have fun in the process. I hope to get to the point where I can turn out small parts for many of the projects that I like to put together. Would this be a good "starter" lathe?

If thats the one I think it is, its just too small and light to be a practical 'my first lathe' They had one good use, in which they'd pay for themselves, that of turning the commutators on automotive starters and generators.

You have a surprisingly difficult situation, in trying to find a suitable lathe.

IF you opt for the readily available oriental version, you will have to learn machine fitting to get it to work well. The generality of American, British, German, or Swiss small lathes, of good quality, will often be found badly worn from years of commercial use, and so will require re-fitting before they may be relied upon for accurate work.

If you are a 'newbie' to turning work, learning on a lathe which doesn't work well is serious frustration.

If I may, I'll offer you an idea. The 'minimum' small lathe which is really capable of serious turn work is the South Bend '10"-1" collet' model. (you can get info about these, in great detail, on the iinternet) These have been in production since the late 1930's, and there are thousands of them in existence.

Most are not the 'hardened bed' version, and will have bed and spindle bearing wear.

Ask on the South Bend area of the practicalmachinist internet site, for reliable machine rebuilders, and negotiate with one of them for a correctly reconditioned (rebuilt to new-machine specs) one of that model.

It will not be cheap, of course.....a lathe is 'capital equipment' and there is 'no free lunch' unless you are extremely lucky.

If you really mean to learn turning work, a good accurate lathe, on which you may rely, is essential. A highly experienced turner can readily 'work around' the problems of a worn lathe, but you shouldn't have to, as a 'newbie'....learning to do good turn work with a known good lathe is your practical option.

(I'll offer an analogy, if I may.......I'm not a musician....far from it....but I enjoy trying to knock down old square dance pieces on a banjo.....and, admittedly, don't do very well at it.

I kept looking, tho, and finally found a 'dumb-luck' very good deal on a 1928 vintage Gibson banjo, the so-called 'professional' grade, which is so very much better sounding and easier to play on than is any cheap banjo.....moral of the story is obvious......to enjoy a 'learning-curve', get good equipment)

cheers

Carla
 
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