Bench shelf and bracing?

[cadunkle]

I'm making a bench for my garage. Use is typical automotive stuff. Heavier items I'll have on it are cylinder heads and motorcycle engines. On a whim I got some wood today and started on it. Apparently it will be an L shaped bench with the back of both sections screwed into studs on a 2x4 ledger board. I've got as far as the rough frame of it, with 3x 4x4 columns that are notched for the 2x4 frame. 4' on the short section, 8' on the long. Long section is 30" deep, short is 24" deep.

I'm thinking I'll put 2x4 braces on either 12" or 16" centers before putting a 3/4" ply top on it. On the long section there is a column at 2' off the wall and another at 8', for a ~6' span supported by a 2x4. I was going to put a third column mid-span but if I can do without it I'd prefer to leave it out for easier access to storage under the bench.

Speaking of storage, I was considering adding a shelf underneath the bench. Originally I thought to brace the columns the the bottom and put a ply lower shelf just above ground level. Now I'm thinking about a higher shelf at the height of the block wall, 26". I can support the back side on the block wall, and use 2x4 between columns for the front support which should add rigidity. The frame is 39" tall, for a finished height of 39.75" with 3/4" ply.

Before I finish this tomorrow, what should I consider or change?

 

[ItsNemo]

Square up the corners? Looks off.

 

[Masheen365]

I would add some blocking to mount a vise. Don’t want the vise relying on 3/4” plywood alone.
I would also consider attaching the legs to the floor somehow. Maybe L brackets on the inside before you add a shelf.

 

[FMB4]

I built a similar sized bench many years ago and ended up using two 3/4" sheets of plywood (it did not have an 'L' tho). A fellow mechanic/friend mentioned that it 'probably' could hold up to the weight of a small block V8 (never tried doing such). I mounted a very large vise on it without any problems.

Have a Good New all.

 

[BetterDays]

I built one similar at my old house. I used extra bracing for the top, 16 on center, and it held me at 280 without flexing at all.

 

[Bucko]

Pardon my crude photoshop skills but I would add another leg down the middle, some leg bracing on a 45 degree, and more bracing down the center. With that shelf area already built into the wall you could come straight off that to the leg rather than a 45, just something to keep the leg square. Added blocking for a vise as mentioned above would also be good.

 

[CraigStu]

I don't think you will be running anything into the bottom of the legs, and it is screwed to the wall, so I see no need for diagonals to the legs. I would not put an extra leg in the middle because it will get in your way. You could put another 2x4 or 2x6 parallel to the front edge 2x4 and behind the legs to add some rigidity w/o a post. That might also let you skip the 3 short 2x4s. As a test just lay your 3/4 plywood on there w/ one screw so it doesn't slide off and climb up on the bench. Walk around a little, jump a little. If you don't feel it moving, put in more screws. If it feels a little bouncy, remove the one screw and the plywood, and add more 2x4s.

 

[BetterDays]

I built one similar at my old house. I used extra bracing, 16 on center, and it held me at 280 without flexing at all.

Pardon my crude photoshop skills but I would add another leg down the middle, some leg bracing on a 45 degree, and more bracing down the center. With that shelf area already built into the wall you could come straight off that to the leg rather than a 45, just something to keep the leg square. Added blocking for a vise as mentioned above would also be good.

If you need the floor space for large storage, make the additional leg removable. I stored a 8.8 rear end under my bench. When I needed it out, I simply removed the extra support leg and moved it out

 

[exmaxima1]

Before I finish this tomorrow, what should I consider or change?

Since you asked....

Consider buying a cheap tool chest for drawers and storage. It will support hundreds of lbs, and make the bench very solid

 

[cadunkle]

Thanks for the idea CraigStu. I added another 2x4 and connected the joists to that. That one is very rigid, the front 2x4 has a little flex. I was debating whether to connect these by cutting up some scrap pieces, but it probably won't matter once the top is on. I need to figure out how I want to do the blocking for a vise, while not knowing the bolt pattern. Vise will likely go on the outer corner of the long end.

I'll cut the top another day, it got dark and started raining. I'd rather not make sawdust inside. Any suggestions for how to treat the top? Will staining it help keep oil/grease/etc. from soaking in and make for easier cleanup? Or just leave it bare? I don't think I'd like paint, I don't want anything that will chip or peel.

 

[ItsNemo]

Thanks for the idea CraigStu. I added another 2x4 and connected the joists to that. That one is very rigid, the front 2x4 has a little flex. I was debating whether to connect these by cutting up some scrap pieces, but it probably won't matter once the top is on. I need to figure out how I want to do the blocking for a vise, while not knowing the bolt pattern. Vise will likely go on the outer corner of the long end.

I'll cut the top another day, it got dark and started raining. I'd rather not make sawdust inside. Any suggestions for how to treat the top? Will staining it help keep oil/grease/etc. from soaking in and make for easier cleanup? Or just leave it bare? I don't think I'd like paint, I don't want anything that will chip or peel.

I did 5-6 coats of spar urethane on my one side sanded plywood top...dirt/grease/oil just wipe right up, no staining.

 

[CraigStu]

For the vise I'd cut a short 2x4 to put in between the front 2x4s and a couple more like this. Construction adhesive and screws.
20211231_175814 by craig stuard, on Flickr
This is one place I might use a diagonal. At some point when using the vise you may get into an upward pull situation. I think I'd do a couple of eye bolts, a bit of wire cable, and a turn buckle from near the vise down to the wall near the floor. For protection look into wipe on oils. I love spar urethane and have used a lot of it but for this I wouldn't want to try to build a smooth shiny surface because then I'd feel bad every time I scraped it. A quick search should turn up suggestions for which oil. For some reason linseed oil pops to mind but I don't know if that is the best one or not.

 

[ItsNemo]

For the vise I'd cut a short 2x4 to put in between the front 2x4s and a couple more like this. Construction adhesive and screws.
20211231_175814 by craig stuard, on Flickr
This is one place I might use a diagonal. At some point when using the vise you may get into an upward pull situation. I think I'd do a couple of eye bolts, a bit of wire cable, and a turn buckle from near the vise down to the wall near the floor. For protection look into wipe on oils. I love spar urethane and have used a lot of it but for this I wouldn't want to try to build a smooth shiny surface because then I'd feel bad every time I scraped it. A quick search should turn up suggestions for which oil. For some reason linseed oil pops to mind but I don't know if that is the best one or not.

Smooth/Shiny makes it easy to wipe down, when it gets too scratched up can just sand and add another few coats. That said, I have a metal top bench too for the really scratchy/rough things or I'll throw a piece of cardboard on the bench before putting something damaging on top.

Also, some of you are over thinking the vise attachment. My 6" Yost vise is simply bolted through the doubled up 1.5" plywood top, haven't had any issues with it moving or anything, and I've hung off breaker bars with parts in the vise.

 

[cadunkle]

I made some blocking for a vise at each end using some scrap pieces and cutoffs and also tied the two 2x4s together. The front edge of the long side is very sturdy now. I did some reading and found either tung oil or linseed oil would be suitable for the top, I opted for tung oil as it sounded better. Granted, I ended up getting a Minwax tung oil "finish" as that's what the store had. It contains tung oil and other stuff. Good enough I guess. I'll do another coat or two 24h apart, however many coats I can get out of what I got.

 

[rburke65]

Looks like a good job to me. Should hold anything you put on it

 

[RoninB4]

I have a couple of wood benches made from 3" white oak but wanted something for greasy/oily disassembly. Find someone remodeling a kitchen or a contractor that does kitchens. The counter tops make a sturdy work surface that wipes up all spills, won't damage steel components, and is usually VERY inexpensive (if not free). Works for me, I don't like plywood tops.

 

[cadunkle]

Good enough. I'll do the cardboard thing for now for anything dirty, and figure out a replacement top when the time comes.

 

[Danno1]

Good enough. I'll do the cardboard thing for now for anything dirty, and figure out a replacement top when the time comes.

Put another piece of PW on top (1/2, 5/8, 3/4) as a sacrificial top. BLO as a finish that can be easily renewed when necessary. Replace the top every X number of years when it gets too beat up.


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