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Bench/Slitting Shear?

Silverback

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Jun 21, 2006
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6
Anyone have one of these? Anyone compare more than one... I'm looking for recommendations... There's a bunch of reasonably priced, what I'm guessing are imports out there and I can't seem to figure out which is the best deal/will work the best for me. The thing is that they all seem to be a very similar design, they all seem to list their specs differently (and I'd be surprised if they really are that different), and I can't seem to figure out if there is a real difference between them besides the holddown type (and if it matters) and the size of the port for cutting round stock. What's worse is that most of them seem to list their cutting capacities as different in different locations.

Intended use: mostly brackets and similar pieces out of 1/8" mild steel, I may occasionally want something a little thicker (some specify that they can cut up to 1/4" in 2.**" flat bar).

Contenders (in no particular order, in most cases I'm looking at a 12", but if it will cut heavier stock better I'll consider a shorter blade, it will be a hard sell to go smaller than an 8"):
  • Wodward Fab- about half way down on http://www.woodwardfab.com/sheet_metal_shearing_tools.htm the funny thing is that it lists the specs totally different on there, their ebay ad, their videos and in their instructions
  • Enco- http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=953107&PMAKA=130-5700, this is where I started
  • Grizzly- http://www.grizzly.com/products/T23100 this one is annoying, it looks like it has some of the best specs of the bunch, but it looks like one of the cheesiest in the pictures, and it looks like they've discontinued the 12" model
  • Jet- http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/ss-12t-bench-slitting-shear/755112K by far the most expensive of the ones that I'm considering, also the only one that seems to clearly specify that the cutting capacity is lower for the 12" model than the 8" (the enco ones seem to go up in capacity with longer blades)
  • Northern Tool- this one is the only one that looks worse than the grizzly one in the pictures, but also has the best specs and the reviews all love it but list things like paint rubbing off in their hands, and a bunch of them list it as arriving bent and straightening it with a hammer, one said they shipped 3 before it was right...

Help! (and before someone says it, I wish I could afford a genuine made in the USA one, but they appear to go for about 4x these... that's basically the difference between having one and not)
 
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Tucko

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Jul 28, 2012
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Neither one of those bench shears will cut 1/8" mild steel. Commonly called a "Beverly" shear, they're better for curved cuts, etc on light gage. Foot shears like you posted usually can't handle more than 20 ga.
What you need is a nice big Iron Worker machine.
 

neophyte

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For 1/4" steel you'd be better off with a good jigsaw such as a top of the line Bosch, or Hilti model. Manual shears may be able to cut heavier steel but I doubt you'd be able to get the same cut control as you would on lighter gage material. 1/8" may also be better off done with a jigsaw.
 
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WWIIjeep

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Neither one of those bench shears will cut 1/8" mild steel. Commonly called a "Beverly" shear, they're better for curved cuts, etc on light gage.

None of those three lever-operated shears the OP linked to are real "Beverly" shears. They're not even bad copies of a Beverly shear.

This is a Beverly shear:

http://www.tinmantech.com/html/beverly_shears.php

A real Beverly shear will put those Enco and Jet and Grizzly shears to shame. Even the Roper Whitney No. 38 and No. 39 shears, which aren't bad, can't compare to a real Beverly shear.

Agreed that most lever-operated shears work best for short cuts, or for curves, but long straight cuts, especially in lighter-gauge sheet metal (18 GA and lighter) can be made with a real Beverly with a little practice because they have a better throatless design.

Caveat Emptor: Harbor Freight sells a cheap clone of the real Beverly design. That's not a recommendation, because it's one of the worst POS products they sell.
 

Tucko

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None of those three lever-operated shears the OP linked to are real "Beverly" shears. They're not even bad copies of a Beverly shear.

This is a Beverly shear:

http://www.tinmantech.com/html/beverly_shears.php

A real Beverly shear will put those Enco and Jet and Grizzly shears to shame. Even the Roper Whitney No. 38 and No. 39 shears, which aren't bad, can't compare to a real Beverly shear.

Agreed that most lever-operated shears work best for short cuts, or for curves, but long straight cuts, especially in lighter-gauge sheet metal (18 GA and lighter) can be made with a real Beverly with a little practice because they have a better throatless design.

Caveat Emptor: Harbor Freight sells a cheap clone of the real Beverly design. That's not a recommendation, because it's one of the worst POS products they sell.

You are of course correct, sir. All others are weak imitations for sure. I've never used one for long straight cuts however, there's always been a shear for that. ;)
 

WWIIjeep

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Arizona
You are of course correct, sir. All others are weak imitations for sure. I've never used one for long straight cuts however, there's always been a shear for that. ;)

I haven't either, except for a few times when there wasn't anything else available. But, if I didn't have room for my squaring shear and power slitting shear (or the infeed and outfeed table it's mounted on), a B-2 or B-3 Beverly would be my choice for a "fits just about anywhere" and "does a lot for it's size" single shear.
 
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