Bench top - solid core door vs. 2x4s on edge?

[zuren]

I see there are a number of threads discussing bench tops but did not see any comparisons so I thought I would ask. I'm hoping to build a new workbench in my garage this winter and weighing my options on what to use for a top.

My neighbor uses solid core doors, as seen here - https://www.menards.com/main/doors-...59-c-12245.htm?tid=2153262919113248929&ipos=1

I've seen other ideas where you take 2x4s, stand them on edge, glue then clamp to create a 3.5" thick, solid slab. You would need twenty 2x4s to create an equivalent sized work surface to the door posted above. A sander could be taken to any high spots, then I would probably polyurethane or epoxy to make the surface resistant to liquids. Cost of 2x4s vs. door slab is within $10 of each other, so I'm considering them equal.

This bench would be used for a little bit of everything - woodworking, small engine maintenance/repair, general tinkering.

Between these 2 options, is there a better way to go?

Thanks!

 

[ddawg16]

It's real easy to decide the first time you hammer something on it.

Price per sq/ft, the solid door is going to be more expensive and less sturdy.

You don't need the center to be on edge....just make a frame using 2x4's on edge, then fill in the middle with 2x4's or 2x6's laid flat.

Real important....make sure the wood is dry. If you get the typical wood from HD that is soaked with water and build it immediately, once it dries, you will have about an 1/8+ gap between the boards. Lumber does not get shorter when it dries...just more narrow.

Anyway...once you have the 2x4 stuff done...top it with 3/4" plywood. That is how I made mine....

Once I get caught up on other projects, I'm going to top it with a sheet of 12g SS

 

[ZipSnafu]

I would use the 2x4's instead of a solid door if you want something that is going to be a little more sturdy and like ddawg16 said... top it off with 3/4 plywood.

 

[four.cycle]

mine is 2" x 6" tongue-in-groove "car decking" with about 11 coats of varathane on it.
(this stuff: https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-...e-Groove-Decking-Board-740462026476/204837003 )

we used to buy "blown" solid-core doors to use as tables for sign-painting - we could get them for about $10 bucks. not sure I'd want to use one as a workbench surface, though - their faces are usually just 1/8" mahogany or birch veneer.

 

[Kaizen]

Step up to 2x6 in the side. Rip half inch off one side so it is square not rounded. Glue those together with screws. Do two at a time then glue those together using longer lag type screws. With all the squares sides all uniform you will have a hard stable and heavy surface. But not terribly expensive. Let kiln dry number one with little to no knots.


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[gtr1999]

I built my bench with 2x6's, studded out on 16's, then 2x6's laying on top, then 1/2 plywood topped with a sheet of 090 steel. Rock solid bench with 4x4 legs. I rebuild corvette trans, diff's, arms, suspension, etc on it. Hasn't failed me yet.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Old premium solid core doors were lumber glued and milled to be flat. The current doors are sawdust pressed and covered with as another one said less than 1/8 inch of plywood. A lot of difference. The 2/4 top would be easily dented and would be hard to get flat as a door in the first place. It's a toss up unless you can find an old door....

 

[Voi]

Woodworkers often buy 16' 2x12 doug fir as they tend to be milled from the best parts of the tree. Sticker and dry and later rip ~2x4 material from them.

This used to be the standard advice back around 2010 or so when I was still somewhat active on woodworking forums.

However, I was recently in a quality lumber yard waiting for them to find a door order. I was looking through their 2x12 doug fir and wasn't seeming much I'd want to buy.

I have a left over doug fir Rosboro X column that I keep staring at for a bench. Already dry and partially laminated.

 

[jimreed2160]

I had a commercial 34" semi solid core door for a work table. Even mounted a woodworking vise on it. But it just attracted junk and ended up being a large miter saw stand. Turns out it was too long, even after I cut it down from 7 ft to 6 ft. And it was too deep. My woodworking bench is only 24" wide and it makes a nice bench.

So if you have room, use a door as an assembly table. Otherwise, my $.02 worth says to use the 2x construction lumber and keep the width to 24".

 

[Lelandwelds]

Glued up 2x are better than doors. Not even close.

Torsion box works well. 1 and 1/8 floor OSB is OK. Glued up plywood with masonite face is good.

I think how you clamp ( or pull,twist and pound) would be the deciding factor. ( I think 3 or 4 leg is a more interesting question.)( Or, vise. Yes or no?)

 

[Git]

I like to use 2x material laid flat with a little bit of overhang and then cover everything with 3/4" mdf - screwed into the 2x so that it is replaceable

(in the pic - pegboard covers up the drywall)

 

[dshop]

>>CUBICLE DESK TOPS..check out office building re-do projects, ask some property managers what they have going on for re-fits, or check Habitat Re-Store.
Cubicle desk tops are super dense with a laminate top, they weigh a ton...great for a workbench top. I have pounded and spilled on them terribly with no ill effects, these tops are tough and often end up in the dumpster when they re-fit office space.
Most are 30-36" deep, perfect for a workbench.
check around.

 

[matt_i]

Todays 2x4s have a big radius in the corners (roundover). That creates a lot of divots when you assemble them. I would prefer to joint the 2x4s down to the point where you have a sharp clean edge to assemble. Another tweak is to drill the flat faces with careful alignment, and then use a threaded rod to clamp them all tight forevermore.

I have a solid door bench but its topped with 3/4" maple t&g flooring. Durable. Takes a bit of work to edge-band it though.

 

[Stuart in MN]

It's not too hard to find people tossing out commercial grade solid core doors that you can get for free...if you can find such a deal and want even more sturdiness, get two of them and stack them up double thickness. They'll have holes in them for the door hardware and hinges so they won't be pretty but they'll work.

 

[sqznby]

I like the 2x4 table idea. You can get pretty creative building them to.
This is just one of the many videos of a simple assembly. I like it

edit: check this monster out

 

[BADSIX]

hit the restore stores for a commercial solid core door then get a steel top around 18 ga.. I got one for 15.00 the other day it still had the hinges I cut it down to 24" wide, screwed the hinges to the wall and put some fold up legs on it. I use it in my prep room and when I don't need it it folds down against the wall.
Jay D.

 

[Northislander]

I milled these for my workbench a couple months ago.I am in the process of building the shop so don't need the work bench yet. As it is i won't be able to actually build the bench for about a year as i want to let the wood dry and re-saw any twist or bow that develops before i build the bench. Currently milled 4" X 13"

 

[norson]

I had one bench made from 3x12s. Old used stuff, but it worked great. My last wooden bench used 4x3 legs and framed with 2x6s. Made the top from what I was told was "stair tread" material. It was about 11/4 thick plywood faced with MDF. The frame was bolted together with 3/8 bolts and the top secured with recessed screws. The MDF started to get fuzzy after a couple of years so I had a piece of .125 cr broke with a back-splash and drop face. Killer bench.

 

[Squashfest81]

I’m surprised by the anti-solid core door crowd. Inch and a half thick, heavy, and flat. That sounds like a good start to me.
I’ve seen 2 by benches done really well, but that takes time. Cut a door to the bench depth and done. Recently switched a solid core bench top to a maple table top. No complaints with the solid doors.

 

[tarmy]

The key is to have a very stiff frame under the 2x stock. Also, screw everything together...shim dead flat under 2x and screw a hard faced 3/4" Replacable plywood top.

I beat the hell out of mine...never a problem. Also, the detached of my two benches has 5/8" adjustable screw feet...the big one is attached to the wall by bolts. You see those vices...they are used and pounded on too.

 

[TomC750]

I made two out of reject commercial steel doors. They have held up well. For anything really heavy like an engine, I use a very heavy table on casters.

 

[The Cobbler]

depends a lot on what type of work you're doing on the bench, IMO

 

[Lelandwelds]

I’m surprised by the anti-solid core door crowd. Inch and a half thick, heavy, and flat. That sounds like a good start to me.
I’ve seen 2 by benches done really well, but that takes time. Cut a door to the bench depth and done. Recently switched a solid core bench top to a maple table top. No complaints with the solid doors.

Many if not most wood doors are OSB equivalent with a thin face. Many steel doors have plastic and cardboard like stiffeners inside. A quality 2 x4 is easy to spot.

I like plywood tops.

I like 1/4" tops or better all steel tables with an angle/channel/I beam skirt set 4" from all edges. I like 3 legged tables @ 2'x4' I like 4 legged @ 4'x8' or 3 'x5'. Every table, stand, and sawhorse needs to be the same convenient height.

 

[Pwaley]

The key is to have a very stiff frame under the 2x stock. Also, screw everything together...shim dead flat under 2x and screw a hard faced 3/4" Replacable plywood top.

I beat the hell out of mine...never a problem. Also, the detached of my two benches has 5/8" adjustable screw feet...the big one is attached to the wall by bolts. You see those vices...they are used and pounded on too.

Beautiful setup, lovin' it

 

[zcar751]

I have done both and for a bench you will beat on the 2x4s will give you better base, you want to have mass under your work to keep things from moving. If you want a working assembly surface use the door but make sure you have a good frame under it because it will sag over time if it is only supported on the ends.
The down side to the 2x4 top is trying to get a flat level surface with out a big planer. Of course you can always top the 2x4s with something else live plywood or MDF.
My personal choice for a workbench is 4 layers of MDF glued and screwed together. That will give you a nice clean 3" thick surface that weighs around 200 lbs.

 

[BikerDad]

Watch your local Craigslist and pick up a Glu-lam. Thoroughly dry, laminated super dooper well.

If that doesn't work for ya, I'd take the 2x4 over the solid core door. I had a solid core door as a workbench top. Friend stood out on the unsupported section when we were putting lights up, benchtop had a droop from then on. Tossed it when I moved, got a Maple top. Late sorta expanded that maple top with 2x4s.

 

[bullnerd]

Solid door here.

Used to be a distributor down the street, I asked for any they had left over and they gave them to me free.

One has an oak veneer. I was pissed at something one day and smacked it with a hammer, barely left a dent. Another has a maple veneer that my kids use for a craft bench. Flat and smooth. Still need full support underneath, they will sag.

 

[BADSIX]

I’m surprised by the anti-solid core door crowd. Inch and a half thick, heavy, and flat. That sounds like a good start to me.
I’ve seen 2 by benches done really well, but that takes time. Cut a door to the bench depth and done. Recently switched a solid core bench top to a maple table top. No complaints with the solid doors.

Me to I think there is a misconception about solid core doors, we're not talking one with press board filler. its wood laminated with veneer cover supper strong. mine a std sized door weighed near 75#.
Jay D.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Me to I think there is a misconception about solid core doors, we're not talking one with press board filler. its wood laminated with veneer cover supper strong. mine a std sized door weighed near 75#.
Jay D.

What is usually offered as "solid core" is some particle board almost osb thing thats not even good at killing room noise. If it was edge glued 2 x 2, LVL, or parallam , then bring it on!

It is pretty hard to confuse some POS thing with a stack of decent 2x lumber.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I built my work bench to serve several functions. First, the work bench had to be a motorcycle lift and service table. I added hydraulic cylinders and a remote operated 12 volt power-back system with a disconnect so the poser supply can be a portable battery booster.
The table lowers to about 4 inches and tops out at 54 inches.
I made a detachable wheel clamp for motorcycle tires that mounts to one end. The surface of the table is diamond plate.
For the working surface I have a fitted 3/16" sheet of cold rolled steel metal. For softer work I have a fitted piece of birch plywood.
The lift table raises my motorcycle easily. I have used the lift table to load and unload my truck.

 

[PurpleZj]

Solid core doors are no joke. Bought a couple to replace my moms box springs with to lower her bed. they are hefty so I’d imagine they’d work well. I’ve never seen the 2x4’s on edge style but also seems like it would work well. My new bench is framed/decked with 2x6/2x8s. It’s a little rough on top since it was all reclaimed wood from my buddies yard, but it’s solid and I plan on planing it and putting a steel top on it for when I weld.


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[BruceMc]

Two sheets of 3/4" CDX glued and screwed to the bench framework, then topped off with a glued on layer of Masonite and several coats of floor epoxy. Smooth, strong, stable, and no exposed fasteners.

 

[bullnerd]

If you glue 2x together on edge, how do you get it flat?

Have you bought a 2x lately? Its all ****.

The door is already flat.

 

[BruceMc]

If you glue 2x together on edge, how do you get it flat?

Have you bought a 2x lately? Its all ****.

The door is already flat.

You can flatten large areas with a router and sled/cradle, but it's a lot of work. I know there are videos on youtube with examples.

Here's one -

 

[James-W]

Many years ago a friend of mine built a workbench with 2X10's and then put masonite on the top that was held on with a few screws along the outside. The screws were countersunk to be flat with the top of the masonite. When the masonite got all messed up, he would remove the screws and replace the masonite with a new piece. Worked out really well for him, maybe it would work out equally well for you.

 

[code4pay]

My new temporary work bench is a solid core door on trestles, I'm really impressed how good it is. I picked it up for $10 at the local recycling center.

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[EOC_Jason]

Building a bench from 2x4 (or even 2x6) on edge is a good way to get a heavy bench that's not going to move around on you. The flatness of the surface would be kind of dependent on what you plan to use it for and how well you are going to treat it...

If you are going to be beating on it, work on engines or anything that will leak oil / grease, then the top isn't going to stay nice long. If you are going to do woodworking exclusively then that's a whole different story...

Just to build a HD top for general garage stuff, I would at least run one of the edges over a jointer or planer to get a crisp flat edge and take off the rounded corners of the 2x material. Then I would use some sort of topper like masonite, melamine, plexiglass, whatever... And when that gets all nasty just replace with a new sheet.

Big thing like others have said is you need to make sure the wood you are using is good and dry.

Alternatively you could spend a little more time & money up front and get some of that super-thick heavy-duty epoxy that gives a nice thick protective layer.

 

[sz0k30]

My bench is on casters w oak 4x4 legs, pine 2x4 frame and 4 - 8 foot oak 2x8's for the top. The attached photo is shortly after I built it many years ago. Doesn't look quite as nice now, but I have & can still beat on it all I want, & that oak top is pretty indestructible.

 

[Firebrick43]

I have built three benches this way. Here is some good instructions.

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LEV1LKdCVaTs8ATCxx.9w4;_ylu=X3oDMTBybGY3bmpvBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMyBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzcg--/RV=2/RE=1512432971/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2ftomsworkbench.com%2f2012%2f08%2f24%2flink-of-the-week-226%2f/RK=2/RS=PnPevNSye4ebwtZR_De0HOJnX.Q-

 

[OneOfEm]

I picked up an old solid core door from Habitat, then ripped it to make the bench top a little narrower. I then glued/screwed 2 layers of 3/4" MDF to the underside (the MDF was in pieces - three pieces per layer, but I overlapped the joints).

I then placed the whole assembly on a frame made out of 2x8's. The legs are 2 2x8's sandwiched with a third running 90 degrees along the side. I ripped off the rounded edges before assembling the frame, then rounded over the exposed edges.

Lastly, I banded the door assembly with 2x6 that I'd ripped the rounded edges from, leaving enough of a lip at the top to contain a pice of tempered hardboard the same size as the door. I gave the hardboard (and frame) a good coating of poly, and it's been good for several years. At some point I'll need to flip the hardboard, and maybe in a decade replace it with a fresh piece.

The bench is heavy, dead-flat, and doesn't have a bit of flex to it.