Bench vs Floor Drill Press?

[vertguy]

I am about to pull the trigger on a new DP and debating between a floor or bench model. The specs between the 2 Jet's I am considering are pretty much identical except the mounting configuration, spindle travel and table size/capacity (354401 vs 354400). And yes, I have considered searching for a vintage unit, but pickings are bare in my area or are way over priced. And with a 20%+ Zoro discount (patiently awaiting the next good code), the mid $400 price point for the Jet that will do anything I need without worry is a plus.

I have a purpose built bench that my old Dunlap (which is not cutting it with way too much runout due to the design) sits on and I like the extra storage under it as my portaband/SWAG table fits perfectly on the shelf. Which is why I am leaning towards the bench model. Limited hobby use with periodic metal and wood hole punching.

Am I making a mistake??

Any input/feedback appreciated

 

[zendriver]

You know what you want, so you answered your own question.

A floor mount, takes floor space 24/7. If you required the increased capacity, that would be another story.

I have a Bench top Rockwell, that I keep in a storage garage, until I need it, which is not often, unfortunately.

 

[BD1]

Which ever you get, I would consider a 3 pulley system, one set at motor, middle , and front. This allows for a greater speed adjustment.

 

[crguy]

Which ever you get, I would consider a 3 pulley system, one set at motor, middle , and front. This allows for a greater speed adjustment.

You definitely need the 3 pulley setup to get the spindle speed down enough for hole saws, big wood boring bits, bigger drills, etc.

 

[vertguy]

Agreed Zen as I always start second guessing my decisions before pulling the trigger on these types of purchases.

Both the models I listed are 3 pulley systems with a 200 rpm low speed.

 

[Elginz]

A started out with a bench drill press, wanted more, got the floor model, had both for awhile, now I have the floor model, but the bench model was a cheepo. After all these years I think I could have done everything I did on a bench model.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Like Elginz, I started out with a bench model, Skil, and it wasn't enough for some decent metal working. I sought after and found an older Cman floor model. I refurbed it and moved the bench top over to the wood side of the garage.

If I could only have one, it would be the floor model as it can literally do more.

 

[Justind97]

How much do you plan on using it is the real question. I bought my floor model and didn't use for about year and half. I always looked at it but never needed it.
It does however consume some valuable space in my 400sq ft that I think could be used in a better way. But the price was right! So it stays where it is.

 

[PelicanPines]

I have one of each... the floor drill press has an X Y table. The table top drill press has a regular drill press table with a fence.

If I could have one drill press with both tables and just swing them in place... that would be my dream. For that ... I would utilize my floor drill press because it has a better motor and the drill head articulates... front back and angles.

As it is... I use the bench top drill press more because of the table/fence setup.

 

[mg283680]

I have few floor drill presses, and see no reason for a bench type. That said, I see no need for the supposed long reach of a floor type.

 

[larry_g]

The selection between those two is the spindle to base dimension.. If you can get YOUR work done in the space available on the bench machine then go for it.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[brownsmustang]

The old farmer o worked for in high school bought a bench model at an auction for dirt cheap. Wanted a floor model so he pulled the pipe post out of it and put a longer one in. I don't recall specifics it was 20+ years ago...

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[ddawg16]

The main advantage of a floor DP is how far down you can drop the table. I've never had a need to drop the table that far.

 

[zkling]

The selection between those two is the spindle to base dimension.. If you can get YOUR work done in the space available on the bench machine then go for it.

lg
no neat sig line

This, obviously many responders here didn't look at the models you selected. You the only difference is the base and column length. The head and table are the same. That is a nice bench drill press.

 

[exmaxima1]

The spindle stroke on those presses is only 3 inches, which means you will be constantly changing the table height as you switch between bits. If you have a long workpiece and using outfeed rollers, you will quickly learn its a pain to run long and short bits, ie drill and countersinks.
I would hold out for at least 4.5" stroke. My Jet (branded Wilton) has a 6 inch stroke and its one of my favorite features.

 

[ovrrdrive]

At least in my garage it's easier to find a place up against a wall to store something than it is to find counter space. I got a cheap dp off CL and converted it to a floor model with some leftover steel. It's so handy to be able to roll it around the garage.

 

[uart]

I have a purpose built bench that my old Dunlap (which is not cutting it with way too much runout due to the design) ...

Hi vertguy. Just wondering how bad the runout was on your old Dunlap. (I'm assuming it's the one you restored here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=272850).

Did you measure it at either the base of the chuck (machined rod installed) or at the taper? I'm just wondering how bad it was and just how much is too much. Also, I was under the impression that a lot modern day import DPs (like that Jet) might have more runout and quill slop than older stuff like the Dunlap.

 

[Davefr]

Benchtop real estate is the most precious in most shops. (as opposed to floor space.)

For that reason alone, get the floor model. (extra capability is a bonus)

 

[ddawg16]

Benchtop real estate is the most precious in most shops. (as opposed to floor space.)

For that reason alone, get the floor model. (extra capability is a bonus)

Unless you make a roll-around base for it....that is tall enough to store my welding table under....

 

[cheechi]

So to be fair I am comparing a Skil $100 DP to a P-C $300 DP. I was in a 1 car packed to the gills, now I have a full basement. So there's that to take into consideration too.

I had a benchtop for years. Was acceptable in its slop and runout and general 'good enough but not exact' manufacturing. Now I have the ability to put holes in basically anything I want so long as the workpiece is portable. I have a lot more travel, I think I can chuck larger bits (didn't have an issue with that before to be fair) and generally with everything bigger I have more flexibility in terms of placement, setting things up, I can stand further back with bigger handles, so on and so on.

 

[Ghost11]

I vote floor model. 99% of the time a bench model will be fine, but one day you might need the extra room.

 

[vertguy]

Hi vertguy. Just wondering how bad the runout was on your old Dunlap. (I'm assuming it's the one you restored here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=272850).

Did you measure it at either the base of the chuck (machined rod installed) or at the taper? I'm just wondering how bad it was and just how much is too much. Also, I was under the impression that a lot modern day import DPs (like that Jet) might have more runout and quill slop than older stuff like the Dunlap.

Yep, that's the one. I don't recall the exact amount of run out... but it is enough to make drilling a clean hole in metal difficult. The issue is with the bearing design on these models as they use 2 pressed in brass sleeves on the inside of the quill, which spindle rides in. Way too much work to try and replace... assuming the right brass bearing sleeves are even readily available. I know there is some risk with the newer DP's, but I assumed the Jet design with 4 spindle bearings, coupled with many good reviews, that it was a decent unit.

Thanks all for the great feedback!

 

[speed bump]

I would recommend a floor model as I have had way to many projects (frames, long stock, or moderately tall stuff) that I couldn't use a bench top drill press for. I would also recommend getting 3-phase motor and a VFD. It is some extra expense up front but dial a speed is awesome.

 

[uart]

Yep, that's the one. I don't recall the exact amount of run out... but it is enough to make drilling a clean hole in metal difficult.

Ok thanks. TBH I'm not even sure what is considered "normal" for run out these days.

I had an old Taiwanese DP from the 1980's that I thought was pretty much a "dirt cheap bottom dollar" model at the time. Maybe I just lucked out or something but both the run-out and the quill slop were so close to non existent that you wouldn't even bother trying to measure them.

Then I bought a modern Chinese import late last year because it had lower speeds (triple pulley), and the run-out was a good deal worse (though still tolerable for me at about 3 to 4 thou), but the slop was horrendous. I ended up voiding the warranty and threading holes in the front and side, just to try and to gib it out a little with some brass bolts.

 

[zkling]

Bench top drill presses were pretty popular in tool and die and machine shops, especially where heavy jigs would be used frequently on the base without the table. The floor models are more suited to general fab work, where larger chuck to spindle space may be needed, especially on extended female MT spindles as by the time you get a drill chuck and large drill or say a tapping head on, plus a vise and part, your Z axis gets eaten up pretty quickly.