Benchtop Camelback Drill Press Project

[2011cummins]

Hello all. I thought I would share this because I enjoyed the project and think it came out decent.

I've been casually looking for a drill press and after seeing yaidunno's camelback restoration decided I needed one. Yes needed

Luck would have it I found one on Craigslist for $125 that sat inside it's whole life covered in oil. The tags on it said "Detroit-Cleveland Machinery", "Department of Defense", and "Ford" among other things.

It had a 3PH 1/3hp GE motor on it with 1939 patents, so I'm assuming its of the 40's vintage. Who knows what back door it walked out of.

Getting the thing home and setup:




Modifications to the base complete. The plates that came with it were welded to the top of the cabinet and the exposed corners rounded to match the look. When I got it Newton was the only thing holding it down.




Partially reassembled after wire wheeling and paint. A blasting cabinet is definitely on the wish list. I thought I could use the leather belt but it broke on startup. Most of the hardware was replaced with stainless just because well it's pretty. Thanks McMaster...



Complete with new motor, serpentine belt, etc. Speed changes are remarkably quick and a quick test with holes from 1/8" through 1/2" on 3/16 steel plate was very satisfying. It might be a little underpowered (1/3HP) since it doesn't like the highest two speeds.

If my math's right it should run at 350-630-1050-1750-3150 RPM (ignoring slippage).





Thanks for looking

 

[d.mcfarland]

Much better!

 

[gonmad54]

That is awesome!

 

[oldldh]

Ya Dun Gud, Bubba!!!

But...

That thing wins the "Arc of Shame Award for 2016"...

Hands down...

 

[2011cummins]

Thanks!

I'm not happy about the arc of shame... I've though about brazing it, JB-welding it, or just bolting a plate on top of it. Maybe I will when it's warmer and I have more motivation.

Until then I pretend it's just a big smiley face

 

[crguy]

Nice to have a table lift on a drill press. Some people fill the extra holes in the table with JB Weld to make it look better.

 

[1930]

Why the holes on the table? What or how did they come about? Hard to believe anyone would be that negligent to their tool so Ill ask.

 

[JoeFin]

PLEASE - get some nice machinable nickel rod and fix that table

That is much too beautiful of a Camel-back to let go through life with that

 

[DenisG]

Did you disassemble the thrust bearing? If so and you have pictures, I'd like to see them. I have a Champion post drill and need to replace the thrust bearing on that, but I'm looking for better ideas.

 

[Alchymist]

Thanks!

I'm not happy about the arc of shame... I've though about brazing it, JB-welding it, or just bolting a plate on top of it. Maybe I will when it's warmer and I have more motivation.

Until then I pretend it's just a big smiley face

http://diamant-polymer.de/en/products/moglice/

 

[JoeFin]

I think using 2 part polymers on the metal table of that Camel-Back would be like "Bondo on a Delorian"

5095 Nickel rod is soft enough to drag a file across yet hard enough to repair forged castings. Not too bad to use and welds easily. Just a ton of flux that's needs constant removal.

Here is an old Brown & Sharp vise I brought back to life with some 5095

Even if you don't have a mill or surface grinder at your disposal, you could easily drag a file until close and then "Stone" the table for a very near perfect finished product

Sorry - just my 2 cents

 

[Deej-79]

Cool project

 

[2011cummins]

Did you disassemble the thrust bearing? If so and you have pictures, I'd like to see them. I have a Champion post drill and need to replace the thrust bearing on that, but I'm looking for better ideas.

I don't think I have any pics of the thrust bearings. They are just brass thrust washers on this one.

 

[2011cummins]

Thanks for the replys fellas. I'll definitely work on the arc of shame.

JoeFin - I've mig'd on castings before with some success. Your results are excellent with 5095 rod, I'll order some and give that a try.

 

[2011cummins]

I found some time today to tinker on this so out came the welder. The table wasn't the flattest to begin with so I just dressed it with a grinding disc then a flap disc. No patience for files...

It's not the prettiest but it'll work.

 

[Ridjobradi]

Great restoration and it looks even better after working on the table more. Did you just use 5095 rod and left the table on the drill press to do it?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[RStewart]

Very nice job.

 

[larry_g]

Hello all. I thought I would share this because I enjoyed the project and think it came out decent.

Complete with new motor, serpentine belt, etc. Speed changes are remarkably quick and a quick test with holes from 1/8" through 1/2" on 3/16 steel plate was very satisfying. It might be a little underpowered (1/3HP) since it doesn't like the highest two speeds.

If my math's right it should run at 350-630-1050-1750-3150 RPM (ignoring slippage).


Thanks for looking

Those speeds seem awful high. In my readings most countershafts turned in the 400 rpm range. I guessing yours is near 1000rpm You might consider slowing things down given the plain bearings and grease cups. What speed was your antique motor that came with the press?

lg
no neat sig line

 

[2011cummins]

Great restoration and it looks even better after working on the table more. Did you just use 5095 rod and left the table on the drill press to do it?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I did leave the table on. I'll have to look but for the # but I just grabbed some mild steel Tig filler rod. It didn't wet in well at all but I'm hoping it all the filler will mechanically lock into place.

If it doesn't hold up I'm going to bolt a plate on top.

Very nice job.

Thanks!

Those speeds seem awful high. In my readings most countershafts turned in the 400 rpm range. I guessing yours is near 1000rpm You might consider slowing things down given the plain bearings and grease cups. What speed was your antique motor that came with the press?

lg
no neat sig line

Larry, The original motor was labeled at 1725 and 1/3 HP. For longevity I agree with you but for limited use and me keeping it well lubed it should be fine. It did last for many years in a shop environment at the high speeds.

My only major concern is the higher tension from the rubber belt, so at some point I will put on an adjustable tensioner. Leather belting just wasn't worth the cost to me.

If I get around to putting on a new motor (currently underpowered, needs 3/4 hp for higher speeds) I may get new pulleys it and slow it down. Thanks for the reply.