Bend Pak HD9 Install

[Matt M PA]

I was fortunate to have some help on Tuesday night, and we got the heavy stuff done.

Today, amongst other things...I did some torque checks, installed cables, etc. I expect tomorrow morning to have it working.

Pics? Not yet...one of the guys took pics he promised to send along.

Gripes? Well, one. The bolts that retain the runways to the crossmembers (according to the instructions) require being torqued to 80 ft lbs. One broke off before it reached spec. I went to Lowes and got some 1/2 x 3s, and one of those broke too. So, I got some grade 8s and we'll see what happens.

I think the hardware that came with the lift (at least these ramps bolts, washers, etc) are simply garbage. Ev en the lock washers spread way our past the nuts!

Updates soon.

 

[pattenp]

Were the supplied bolts 13 TPI or 20 TPI? 1/2" 13 TPI Grade 5 is 75 Ft Lb and the 20 TPI is 85 Ft Lb. Grade 8 is 110 Ft Lb and 120 Ft Lb respectively.

 

[e-tek]

80lbs??? That doesn't sound right....the lock washers spreading makes me think that even more...regardless, those bolts are OK just snug - they don't hold any load, just hold the ramp from sliding side to side when a vehicle is moved on/off. Likely v. little shearing pressures either. I leave mine barely tight, 'cause when I want to widen or narrow my ramps I don't want to have to break out the big breaker bar!

 

[pattenp]

e-tek, I had the same thought, but not having one of these lifts I didn't comment. To me, 80 ft lbs is overkill.

 

[Matt M PA]

Thanks guys! I'd agree that 80 is overkill...but since I didn't design the lift...I figured I'd follow the instructions. Here 'tis.....

"Align the holes in the
Runway with the desired holes on the Cross Tubes and
bolt together using four M12 x1.75 x 90 Hex Head Bolts and
Washers. Torque to 80 ft/lbs. (See Fig. 6.1)"

I saw no reason for them to be that tight either....thinking that the runways sit upon the crossmembers....the hardware is for "Steadying" more than retaining. I thought maybe...this helped "tighten" up the lift.

A couple other questions please E-Tek?

1. How "square" is yours after measuring diagonally?
2. Once a vehicle is lifted, I assume it's very steady? (Hard to tell thus far, and the cables are not yet tight.)
3. When we placed the top caps...we had to leave the small, side attaching hardware somewhat loose as if they were tightened, they would distort the columns.

I'm sure I'll have another question tomorrow. Thanks for now!

 

[Matti]

I had a problem with these cheapo Chinese bolts too as did others. Torquing them to 80 ft lbs per the instructions just deforms the washers and ruins the threads. I threw them into the garbage and went down to an industrial nut and bolt shop and bought new ones. They said they didn't even carry bolts of that low a grade (butter??).

 

[Matti]

I had a bunch of questions too that the instruction manual either doesn't address or is vague or incorrect. I called the tech line multiple times.

Yes, the lift is quite wobbly until you get the cables tightened.

Tightening the top cap bolts does distort the column.

I don't worry too much about squareness as the posts do move and you can't do anything about that without bolting them. The feet are far from flat which doesn't help. I just put some of the shims around the outside of the post feet to stabilize the columns.

 

[akdiesel]

The more weight you put on the lift the more rigid it becomes. I have my 7500# truck on the lift and the lift does not sway at all, with the smaller vehicle at 1900# it can sway some but only if you are standing at one of the legs and get aggressive. Not a practice I like to do but I wanted to test it out.

 

[Matt M PA]

It's alive!!!!!

Well, I still hafta now clena the garage, etc. As well as make some cable adjustments now that the Cobra has had a couple rides.

One more question guys....what should I lube the columns with? I used WD40 as suggested in the manual...but I thought I heard somewhere that there was something better.

 

[e-tek]

I saw no reason for them to be that tight either....thinking that the runways sit upon the crossmembers....the hardware is for "Steadying" more than retaining. I thought maybe...this helped "tighten" up the lift.

A couple other questions please E-Tek?

1. How "square" is yours after measuring diagonally?
2. Once a vehicle is lifted, I assume it's very steady? (Hard to tell thus far, and the cables are not yet tight.)
3. When we placed the top caps...we had to leave the small, side attaching hardware somewhat loose as if they were tightened, they would distort the columns.

I'm sure I'll have another question tomorrow. Thanks for now!

I would agree they "could' help tighten it diagonally...but I haven't had too much wobble thus far and I've yanked and wrenched and climbed all over it!

1. I think it was within an inch, 1.5 at the most. I recall it beeing hard to get it perfeclty square tho. I was told it's MOST importnat to have your towers straight up and down and even to mount a couple magnetic levels on them to be sure - saves life on yuour cables too.

2.ya, it's "quite" steady. It wobbles a tiny bit if you're yanking on something, or sliding the jack, but not much. All the forces are straight down.

3. Sounds odd, not sure what you mean. Key is to get the ladders level - by having a level on your cross bars. Once those centre ladder bolts are where they should be, snug up the others. Again, the forces are all straight down, which would keep those caps in place, but those other bolts would help with shearing (side to side) forces on top of the columns.

The only dangerous thing I've come across is if you don't raise it enough to unlock all 4 locks, then you lower it and one gets caught....so three corners are moving down and one isn't. With a car on it you can miss it for a few inches, then the car is leaning hard to one side. Just have to lift it back up to cure it, but watch for this anyways.

Hope I helped!

 

[e-tek]

It's alive!!!!!

Well, I still hafta now clena the garage, etc. As well as make some cable adjustments now that the Cobra has had a couple rides.

One more question guys....what should I lube the columns with? I used WD40 as suggested in the manual...but I thought I heard somewhere that there was something better.

I've been spraying WD40 onto the columns when the rubber blocks chatter. But everyone has a favourite "WD40"!

Make sure to wipe the cables and blocks down with LOTS of 90Wt Gear Oil on a rag - severa times per lift for the first few lifts - to get it right into the threads.

Great work - but WE WANT PICTURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Matt M PA]

Thanks for all the help guys.

E-Tek...yes, the ladders are all the same distance from the ground..then I adjusted the cable to engage the locks at the same time. Well, very close when empty.

While I understand wiped the cables...what do you mean by wiping the "blocks"? I can only assume you mean the "nylon" pieces inside the columns...and how would one wipe them down?

I opted for the longer ramps in order to be Viper friendly.

So...how'd I do?

 

[e-tek]

sorry - not sure why I said blocks there....just spray the rubber blocks/inside of columns with WD and wipe the cables with 90wt....my bad. Those ramps DO look long!

Looks AWESOME - love the shop - now lets see the Viper on it!!!

 

[Nutty 5.0]

Beautiful garage Matt! I do believe he means the nylon when he refers to the blocks. Not sure either what he suggests. I'm sure he'll jump in and explain.

 

[Matt M PA]

Bringing back an old thread to answer E-Tek's quest for a picture with the Viper. I put it on the lift for it's oil change.

Ya know, I've had this car almost 10 years (and other Vipers before)...it never gets old. It's a 2000 GTS in Steel Grey with Silver stripes. One of 127.

And...thanks for the kinds words about the garage...I am indeed proud.

 

[e-tek]

And WHY WOULD that get old???!!!! They are awesome - I'm just sad I've yet to get to drive one!! Now tell us more about the white classic in the foreground!!!

 

[Matt M PA]

Ah yes...the white classic.

It's a 1956 Olds Holiday Super 88 4 door hardtop. It belongs to an old friend I'm hleping with some resto work on it. I pulled the suspension, refinished, etc. (I already did the undercarriage on his other Olds...a 1956 Super 88 convertible...as well as some other work) With my '72 Plymouth long completed....I;m glad to still be playing with old cars.

What's really cool about both these Oldsmobiles is that they have power seat, power antenna, A/C, power windows...they're all loaded up.

 

[slowTA]

I don't agree with everyone saying the bolts that hold the ramps on aren't critical. I even argued this point with Bend Pak since they told me some shops don't even bolt the runways down (probably the non-powered runway).

My point is that there would be nothing keeping the posts from going over front to rear with a good push. The crosstubes do not lock into the runways. The only way this would be safe is if the posts were bolted down. Imagine if the runways were just sitting on the crosstubes with only 1 safety locked and the other being lowered.

I replaced my bolts with grade 12.9, M12 x 1.5 socket head cap screws with flat washers and nylon locknuts. That thread size is the same as wheel studs, torque spec on those are 85 ft-lbs to 100 ft-lbs depending on the application. The grade 4.4 or 4.8 bolts they include are complete garbage.

 

[e-tek]

I don't agree with everyone saying the bolts that hold the ramps on aren't critical. I even argued this point with Bend Pak since they told me some shops don't even bolt the runways down (probably the non-powered runway).

My point is that there would be nothing keeping the posts from going over front to rear with a good push.

It's an interesting point....I'd be interested in knowing how much force it would take to push the system over - loaded and unloaded. As it's (likely) has never happened though (or they'd be demanding you torque those bolts), it must take a good push to get it to tip past the force of about 2000pounds (unloaded) and 4-11000pounds (loaded).

 

[slowTA]

Now imagine you're using the casters with the runways not fully secured.

 

[Matt M PA]

If we are speaking about the bolts that retain the runways to the crossmembers...on my instruction sheet Bend Pak did indeed place an 80ftlb torque spec to those bolts...which is why they broke. I too replaced them with hardened pieces.

 

[Yellowmann]

Lift and Viper looks great. Where did you buy this lift, how much and do they offer install?
Im looking for the same setup.

Thanks,
Charlie

 

[Dave-M]

Yellowmann,
FYI, on Friday, I ordered the Bend Pak HD-9ST lift, same length and height as the HD-9, but a little narrower, I got it from ASE Automotive Service Equipment (asedeals.com) They have all Bend Pak lifts on sale this month. I paid $2470, including free shipping. they have the HD-9 for only $60 more at $2530 incl. shipping. Delivery is 7-10 calendar days. Several other dealers have the same price, some do offer install for extra, many dealers have BIG markup on this model.

 

[Yellowmann]

Yellowmann,
FYI, on Friday, I ordered the Bend Pak HD-9ST lift, same length and height as the HD-9, but a little narrower, I got it from ASE Automotive Service Equipment (asedeals.com) They have all Bend Pak lifts on sale this month. I paid $2470, including free shipping. they have the HD-9 for only $60 more at $2530 incl. shipping. Delivery is 7-10 calendar days. Several other dealers have the same price, some do offer install for extra, many dealers have BIG markup on this model.

Thanks I did see it on that site like you said. Are you installing it yourself? Is it being ship to your house? I'm also looking at the pro park 8 plus from gregsmithequipment.com the price is good but not sure how the lift is. I'm searching the forum for feedback. Thanks Charlie

 

[Matt M PA]

Yellowman...thanks on both counts.

I ordered from ASEDeals and was well pleased with everything. They did not offer installation but did recommend someone in my area. It was more than I wanted to spend and shopped around...but noone was priced as I'd like for the install.

EDIT....had to fix....they did not offer installation. Once the heavy bits were lifted with an engine hoist...I did the rest myself in about a day. Glad I did too...now I know how to make adjustments, etc.

 

[e-tek]

Thanks I did see it on that site like you said. Are you installing it yourself? Is it being ship to your house? I'm also looking at the pro park 8 plus from gregsmithequipment.com the price is good but not sure how the lift is. I'm searching the forum for feedback. Thanks Charlie

If I may offer my OPINION? I'm no engineer, but in my mind the BendPak is WAY MORE of a lift than is the ProPark. I looked at the PP before getting my BP and the steel, the columns and even the cable rollers all looked beefier on the BP. As well, knowing BP's Veep is here on GJ and available is like putting a face to the name. Just before I bought mine, there where a few instances of people needing and getting service from BP. It seemed they bent over backwards to get info, help customers and adress concerns.

 

[Dave-M]

Sorry took so long to get back, busy week.
Yes, I am definitely installing it myself. We're garage guys right?
I am having it shipped to where I work, we have loading docks and forklifts, plus they wanted another $40 to ship to a residential address, where I'm not exactly equipped to get a 13 foot #1920 pound package out a box trailer without doing damage. Once out of the truck at work, I'll use a fork lift to put it on a buddys equipment trailer, and he'll take it to the house, where my tractor will move the pieces into the garage. I'm running the new 220V line to the designated spot tomorrow night, and will find out tomorrow exactly when it's going to arrive. They said 7-10 calendar days, so that should be sometime between this friday, and probably tues or wed next week. Getting excited, and hoping the wife will start talking to me again sometime this month.

 

[Yellowmann]

Yellowman...thanks on both counts.

I ordered from ASEDeals and was well pleased with everything. They did not offer installation but did recommend someone in my area. It was more than I wanted to spend and shopped around...but noone was priced as I'd like for the install.

EDIT....had to fix....they did not offer installation. Once the heavy bits were lifted with an engine hoist...I did the rest myself in about a day. Glad I did too...now I know how to make adjustments, etc.

If I may offer my OPINION? I'm no engineer, but in my mind the BendPak is WAY MORE of a lift than is the ProPark. I looked at the PP before getting my BP and the steel, the columns and even the cable rollers all looked beefier on the BP. As well, knowing BP's Veep is here on GJ and available is like putting a face to the name. Just before I bought mine, there where a few instances of people needing and getting service from BP. It seemed they bent over backwards to get info, help customers and adress concerns.

Sorry took so long to get back, busy week.
Yes, I am definitely installing it myself. We're garage guys right?
I am having it shipped to where I work, we have loading docks and forklifts, plus they wanted another $40 to ship to a residential address, where I'm not exactly equipped to get a 13 foot #1920 pound package out a box trailer without doing damage. Once out of the truck at work, I'll use a fork lift to put it on a buddys equipment trailer, and he'll take it to the house, where my tractor will move the pieces into the garage. I'm running the new 220V line to the designated spot tomorrow night, and will find out tomorrow exactly when it's going to arrive. They said 7-10 calendar days, so that should be sometime between this friday, and probably tues or wed next week. Getting excited, and hoping the wife will start talking to me again sometime this month.

Thanks all for your suggestions and feed back. I guess my concern is if its shipped to my house, how am I going to get it out of the truck. I don't have anyone who has a forklift or shop that I can get it shipped too. Im sure I can put it together once I get it in my garage. The other thing that im comparing the BP and PP is their air jacks... BP is like $1k vs PP for $600. I want to get two of them so I can have the whole car lifted of the tracks.

Did anyone of you get the air jack and whats your feed back on it?

Thanks,
Charlie

 

[nmbr6]

I rented a forklift. It cost me about $150. I used a engine hoist to lift the runways into position. You can do 98% of it by yourself. I had my GF help me a couple times just in positioning and to lift the posts up with the crossbeams in them.

 

[Matt M PA]

Regarding the jacks.....I too planned on that but it just wasn't in the budget. I did get two of the sliding trays that telescope.

From what I read around on-line, getting two of the air-jacks made problems as they're big and in the way. One, it seems, and a tray allows you to lift one end...then put stands underneath and move the jack to the other end.

For me...I ordered a pair of hydraulic scissor jacks from Home Depot...they go down to 5.25"...(Viper friendly). Cost was about $100 for the pair...here's hoping that's my fix.

 

[Yellowmann]

I rented a forklift. It cost me about $150. I used a engine hoist to lift the runways into position. You can do 98% of it by yourself. I had my GF help me a couple times just in positioning and to lift the posts up with the crossbeams in them.

that's a good idea...

Regarding the jacks.....I too planned on that but it just wasn't in the budget. I did get two of the sliding trays that telescope.

From what I read around on-line, getting two of the air-jacks made problems as they're big and in the way. One, it seems, and a tray allows you to lift one end...then put stands underneath and move the jack to the other end.

For me...I ordered a pair of hydraulic scissor jacks from Home Depot...they go down to 5.25"...(Viper friendly). Cost was about $100 for the pair...here's hoping that's my fix.

oh that is cheaper... Do you have a link to the one you got at HD? Maybe I can get the to deliver on the flat bed with the fork lift for $65 and then pay the driver extra to get the lift off the other truck

 

[Dave-M]

Charlie, No, I ordered no accessories with the lift, the budget was plumb tapped out. I've got some sheetmetal and an 8' bending brake, so I'll make up a drip tray if needed, I doubt the air jacks would fit the bill here, as the hot rod's only got 3 1/2" clearance all the way around, the big reason I decided on a 4-post. We use a 12V scissor jack my dad came up with for the short cars. I'm getting a couple more to stay with the lift.
There are links to hydraulic scissor jacks elsewhere in the forums from a few years back, just do a search on them. Apparently this has been a big topic forever.

 

[e-tek]

DO NOT be concerned with taking dleivery and setting it up yourself if you can wrangle a couple people to help you unload the ramps and columsn and then to position the ramps. I did it ALL myself, save for having 3 friends come over to unload, then come back 2 days later to help position the ramps - about 30 minutes each time. It was fun.

Setting it up was fun and rewarding. No special tools and then you know how it works. The delivery was supposed to be to a business address, so that's what I made it....

 

[Junkman]

You should only need one Bend Pak rolling / sliding jack. Lift one end of the car, and if you need the other end lifted, then put some wooden blocks under the first end that you lifted, roll the jack to the other end, and lift. This is what I do, and it is easy to do. No need to have two jacks in the way when working underneath. I have even put blocks under both ends, and pushed the jack totally out of the way. I have the HD 9 XW and love it. My only regret is that I didn't buy one sooner.

 

[Matt M PA]

I got a pair of hydrualic scissor jacks through Home Depot. They were under $50 each, free shipping.

They go down to about 5.25", which will fit under the Viper. Then, I can always use a small pair of stands and go to the other end if I need the whole car up.

I used them for the first time yesterday and was pleased. They lifted the '56 with no trouble. (and..a 1956 88 with power seat, power windows, A/C, power antenna, etc, etc,, etc...Is heavy)

If I had the funds at the time, I would have considered one of the bridge jacks...but so far this is working well.

 

[Dave-M]

Well, It's all together. The lift took 12 days to get here, but transported home no problem, moved the pieces into the shop with my tractor, and it all went together in 5-6 hours. My instructions had 2 stickers on the runways install page, which now say torque the bolts to 55 pounds. I called the help line about this, and he told me the same as he told you guys, that those bolts don't even need to be installed, or just finger tight. They made a HUGE difference in stability front to back. Thanks for the heads up, I had grade 8's ready.

 

[slowTA]

I still can't believe they're telling everyone these bolts are not important. Would anyone use the caster kits without those bolts installed? If the posts are bolted down then I agree that the bolts aren't as important but it is still good practice to have the runways bolted on and tight.

 

[e-tek]

I still can't believe they're telling everyone these bolts are not important. Would anyone use the caster kits without those bolts installed? If the posts are bolted down then I agree that the bolts aren't as important but it is still good practice to have the runways bolted on and tight.

I don't think they're all that important. I used the supplied bolts and torqued them to spec the first time only. After that I leave them snug, so I can move the ramps when needed. I've moved the lift a few times, no problems.