seagravedriver
Well-known member
Trying to raise my Bend-Pak lift. Motor is hot and smokes. 220, low use. Well maintained and low use. Would do pic or video, but short on patience. Thinking of having it rebuilt. Thoughts?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Bend-Pak rebuild time? 4 years?
- Thread starter seagravedriver
- Start date
lakeroadster
Well-known member
Probably a power unit issue.
Does it do this without any weight on the lift?
Does it do this without any weight on the lift?
OP
seagravedriver
Well-known member
I have a video, as well as a few still pics. I get smoke out of the top of the motor. Fluid is up, weight is in normal limits. I am just don't have enough patience to figure out how to load a video or pics onto this site. The motor will lift me, with no car. It just does not sound right.
Thats damn unusual. There's no reason to post a video, smoke is smoke and once it smokes...weeell it's smoked. But before you go swapping motors you need to figure out why it smoked. It's pretty rare something only a couple years old that's rarely used dies on ya, but it does happen. The first thing I'd suggest is test the voltage at the motor leads while under load. See if you have a low incoming voltage issue. If you do then start chasing this up stream at each connection point and look for a bad connection.
There's only one down side to this test with the motor alreaady damaged, it could be drawing such a huge load now it'll cause a substantial voltage drop. So if you do find you're not maintaining good voltage to the motor and you don't find anything obvious upstream, go a head and replace the motor and test the new one before you real start using it. If you're experiencing the same voltage drop, then you didn't find the original problem. If there is a minimal voltage drop (less then 3-5%) then you'll be fine and I'd say your original motor was just junk from the get go.
Also you can't rule out the pump is failing and took the motor out. When it runs, do you hear any noises coming from the hydraulic pump? Check and see if you can turn the input shaft without substantial effort.
One last test to throw out there if you buy a new motor and you find your incoming voltage is within specification. While running the pump check the current draw under load. If you're drawing way more current than the nameplate rating, it could very well be the pump was the issue to begin with.
Btw, these aren't the only tests you can perform to isolate an issue, but they're the easiest with basic meters. If you have a buddy that has a megaohm meter and a low resistance meter there's a few more test that can be done to figure out what the issue is.
Good luck.
There's only one down side to this test with the motor alreaady damaged, it could be drawing such a huge load now it'll cause a substantial voltage drop. So if you do find you're not maintaining good voltage to the motor and you don't find anything obvious upstream, go a head and replace the motor and test the new one before you real start using it. If you're experiencing the same voltage drop, then you didn't find the original problem. If there is a minimal voltage drop (less then 3-5%) then you'll be fine and I'd say your original motor was just junk from the get go.
Also you can't rule out the pump is failing and took the motor out. When it runs, do you hear any noises coming from the hydraulic pump? Check and see if you can turn the input shaft without substantial effort.
One last test to throw out there if you buy a new motor and you find your incoming voltage is within specification. While running the pump check the current draw under load. If you're drawing way more current than the nameplate rating, it could very well be the pump was the issue to begin with.
Btw, these aren't the only tests you can perform to isolate an issue, but they're the easiest with basic meters. If you have a buddy that has a megaohm meter and a low resistance meter there's a few more test that can be done to figure out what the issue is.
Good luck.
Last edited:
OP
seagravedriver
Well-known member
I will call a sparky. It was just odd that it went bad that fast. And not a lot of cycles over the years. It is 220, and there is a dedicated circuit for it. But, who knows, something happened. I will get it checked so I don't buy another motor. I appreciate the input.
Craig
Craig
I will call a sparky. It was just odd that it went bad that fast. And not a lot of cycles over the years. It is 220, and there is a dedicated circuit for it. But, who knows, something happened. I will get it checked so I don't buy another motor. I appreciate the input.
Craig
IMO I'd be worth the cost of a service call to properly trouble shoot the problem if there was a problem. Tell them before they come out to be prepared to test for voltage drop, measure the load and possibly meg the motor and the circuit conductors, also a IR gun would be very handy if the problem is the breaker connection in the panel. Now normally most good sparkles will have that stuff in their truck. But **** now a days with how most service companies are, I wouldn't put it past them to do half the test then tell you they need to come back to perform another test at a additional charge.
Well good luck, Cam
OP
seagravedriver
Well-known member
I have a local sparky scheduled for Tuesday afternoon. I know the owner, and they have a good rep. There are some supply houses in this area, and my son can get a motor at a very fair price. We will see how it goes!