Bending Aluminum Rod

[Whiskeymike]

I'm looking to take Aluminum Rod (about 3/4 inch wide) and bend it into a rounded rectangle about the size of your hand with one corner having a gap about an inch apart. What would be the best way to do this and make it repeatable?

I've found this tool at HF - http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-top-bar-and-rod-bender-38471.html But that seems like it would be very user prone in getting the angles right, especially for making a dozen or more of the same thing. I imagine I could build a jig, but not sure how that works with a tool as above, or in place of it.

 

[Zeke]

I'm lost. Post a diagram? The alloy you choose is going to have everything to do with this.

I have that bender. It's adequate for say something up to 1/2" round or square in steel. AL I'm sure could be larger but it needs to be soft.

 

[readhead]

Alloy is the key. Your discreption is pretty vague. Sounds like the bends will be very close together which could be a problem. Need a picture or sketch.

 

[Whiskeymike]

Sorry guys. Here is a picture. They are oh **** handles for a jeep. These are done in steel. I'd like to make something similar in aluminum.

 

[yaidunno]

You'd need the Diacro Model 3, and even it would have its hands full with 3/4 Aluminum. Thats an awful lot of material to move. We have the 1A at work and they are fantastic precision benders.

The bender is $2400 and you'd have to make your own mandrels.

You could also possibly make a press brake fixture and try that route.

 

[BUZBOX]

It's possible with the right material and the right temper.
I've done similar shapes in aluminum 6063 T52. The bender was a Hossfeld.

 

[ez-duzit]

IIRC you will have to change the design if you want to switch to aluminum as it requires a much larger minimum bend radius.

 

[383 240z]

You have a photo of those in place? I sell Jeep stuff for a living and have never seen them. Who makes them? Thanks Keith

 

[astroracer]

I'm thinking 3/4" is pretty big for what you are making. 1/2" would probably do the job. Modify the design a bit to make one larger radius at the bottom and this would be do-able.
I have this bender from Speedway Motors:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tubing-Pipe-Bender,9848.html

Works very well and is not that expensive.
Mark

 

[kellymc]

Cut them from plate using a CNC to profile them round, or cut them from plate and file away

 

[Whiskeymike]

These are grabars. Google should net lots of results. They are awesome and really sturdy. But I think Aluminum would look great.

 

[Whiskeymike]

Cut them from plate using a CNC to profile them round, or cut them from plate and file away

It's a good idea. Unfortunately I don't have a CNC and it feels like cheating to farm it out as I'm trying to fab as much of my jeep stuff as possible. But I guess if I design it, it would still count for "built, not bought". Might require a separate thread, but what would you expect a shop to charge me for cutting and rounding the corners from plate? To work with a shop, do you just design it in a CAD program and provide the file? Or is there more to it?

 

[Whiskeymike]

I'm thinking 3/4" is pretty big for what you are making. 1/2" would probably do the job. Modify the design a bit to make one larger radius at the bottom and this would be do-able.
I have this bender from Speedway Motors:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tubing-Pipe-Bender,9848.html

Works very well and is not that expensive.
Mark

That seems very reasonable cost wise. 3/4 may be larger than need be. I figured that is the largest diameter I'd want, so that was the extreme. But 1/2". Might be plenty.

When using a bender like this... Do you need a much longer rod to have the leverage/grip in order to bend it(then cut excess)? Or could you start with an 18 inch piece and make it with no/little excess?

 

[bad_idea]

I have not worked w/ much aluminum, mostly steel. I would make a jig on my weld table w/ pins welded vertical to the table. Then tack the end of the round stock to the table and start heating the round stock near the first bend and work it around the jig. That is how I rolled a ring for my wife's end table. Again, I work in steel, not aluminum. I am not sure if you can heat bend aluminum.

BTW, I used the roller at work to roll a ring in flatbar, the roller at work doesn't have the grooves for round stock.

 

[383 240z]

$150 grab handles???? I can see why you want to make your own. Keith

 

[Whiskeymike]

I have not worked w/ much aluminum, mostly steel. I would make a jig on my weld table w/ pins welded vertical to the table. Then tack the end of the round stock to the table and start heating the round stock near the first bend and work it around the jig. That is how I rolled a ring for my . Again, I work in steel, not aluminum. I am not sure if you can heat bend aluminum.

BTW, I used the roller at work to roll a ring in flatbar, the roller at work doesn't have the grooves for round stock.

Everything I've read is that most Aluminum should be cold bent, but some grades work. I was imagining a similar jig with pins and I think it would work. But I'm guessing I'd have to start with a 4 foot piece, bend it, then cut it and the rest would be waste as I wouldn't have the leverage to bend the next piece that is only 2.5 feet long.

Then I thought I might device a pipe that goes over the end of the short bar to increase the leverage, but not confident it would work. If I could tack another bar to it, then cut off the tack, it might work, but I can't weld aluminum yet.

I think I would have the same issues with a tool. (length)

Still working through it conceptually.

 

[ez-duzit]

...These are done in steel. I'd like to make something similar in aluminum.

Why? What's wrong with steel?

 

[kellymc]

Another low buck way would be to use a jig saw to cut the shape out and then a router and carbide round over bit to round them over.

Some shops want a CAD file, others can work off of hand drawings since they make their own CAD files. Once they have a CAD file, it is converted to a CAM file for use in the CNC machine.

Not sure about costs, it can vary from a 6 pack to $$$

Kelly

It's a good idea. Unfortunately I don't have a CNC and it feels like cheating to farm it out as I'm trying to fab as much of my jeep stuff as possible. But I guess if I design it, it would still count for "built, not bought". Might require a separate thread, but what would you expect a shop to charge me for cutting and rounding the corners from plate? To work with a shop, do you just design it in a CAD program and provide the file? Or is there more to it?

 

[bullnerd]

Cutting them out would result in a **** load of scrap.

Find/buy some bar and try it. Research the best alloy to bend.

Will have to coated or they will turn your hands black?

 

[theknurl]

a Hossfeld will do it, but I don't think you need 7/8" either

 

[ez-duzit]

But 1/2" is way too small, especially for your hand, except on a small toolbox, perhaps. And generally you need more cubic inches of aluminum to do the same job as steel. And where steel might bend, aluminum will break. So you really can't skimp on the size.

I still see no advantage in changing from steel to aluminum.

 

[bad_idea]

If you use a pipe to slip over the round stock for leverage, it needs to be a snug fit. I can say from experience if it is a sloppy fit it will crease the round stock real bad.

Using a jig saw and a router may be a good answer for a 'home CNC' finish. Make a template using masonite and clamp that over some aluminum plate to make the handle.

My concern would be strength though. I don't trust aluminum for applications requiring strength. It isn't like a Jeep is a vehicle you worry about weight on. If you want shiny, use stainless round stock. Make a jig, heat bend it, then polish it.

 

[Whiskeymike]

Why? What's wrong with steel?

Nothing wrong with it. Just thought Aluminum would look good, be different. I also don't have a torch and figured steel would be harder to bench without the torch. Maybe a good excuse to buy a torch.