Bending PVC conduit with heat

[Tarheel Slim]

Before you put any heat on either conduit, place a coupling or connector on the end (no glue) so you don't distort the end while hot.

Since you are out of the wall from the floor, you will definitely be living with at least a portion of them protruding from the wall unless you furr that bay out.

To be safest, you could make all the bends for the offsets in a new piece of conduit and once you got it right and no damage to the conduit, looks good etc, cut it to length and couple on to what you have sticking out of floor.
Can do the same for the smaller conduit as long as couplings not at same height.

Thanks for the tip, i might use your method just wondering if i should cut off any more of that 2 inch pipe to allow for a better transition if i start the offset bend at a lower point,not too low where it gets in the way of coupling the smaller PVC coming up from floor,i need to keep them off set from one another if you look at the pics i posted,thanks.

 

[Norcal]

What's the difference if it's not getting inspected ? If it fits on who cares ? The plumbing fittings are heavier wall than the electrical anyway. I did use 3/4 PVC plumbing elbow on my 3/4 electrical PVC to keep it tight to wall instead of adding a outside box. Worked great and looks cleaner than a box sticking out.

With that type of attitude one should not be doing any type of construction work, particularly electrical, the work should be performed in the same manner, inspected or not.

 

[mm08822]

Thanks for the tip, i might use your method just wondering if i should cut off any more of that 2 inch pipe to allow for a better transition if i start the offset bend at a lower point,not too low where it gets in the way of coupling the smaller PVC coming up from floor,i need to keep them off set from one another if you look at the pics i posted,thanks.

Bend the new piece first. You know the distance the offset needs to be made in (between bends). Try to place bends as close as possible to each other and assuming you can do it in the required distance, then cutting pipe to length is easy.
Make sure you leave room in the "straight sections" for truly circular cross-section of pipe to get the coupling and connector on the ends.

I would leave the stub in concrete as is, unless the length of the other piece forced me to mess with it.

 

[LXCam]

I can't believe no one suggested a pcv heating blanket. I'm not sure what the tool rental joints are like in your area but it's worth a few phone calls. Personally I'd just install steel flex and pull from the other end.

 

[manwithtools]

I would like to see a picture or furred wall or have a better understanding of how this would be done in my particular situation.

What everyone is suggesting is to fasten a full length piece of wood 1 -1/2" wide x 1-1'2" or 2" thick to the face of each wall stud. This furring would go from floor to ceiling effectively making your 2x4 stud wall a 2x6 stud wall. You would also need the same furring horizontally on your bottom plate and top plate. When you are done the wall will be "thicker" than the other walls but it won't be detectable to anyone other than you.

The furring needs to be thick enough to allow the entire conduit to inside the wall when done if you want to avoid messing any further with the conduit.

Does that explanation make sense?

 

[ard]

I would like to see a picture or furred wall or have a better understanding of how this would be done in my particular situation.

Like this- very very quick sketch. You can sister a stud onto the existing stud or add an extension to the face of the stud.

The sister stud on the 'leftmost' edge gives you a 'corner' for the Sheetrock,,,you also need to add a stud on the left wall at the corner, so the sheetrock is supported....

Also, you are adding an extension to the floor plate, and ceiling plate-

 

[manwithtools]

As opposed to what ard sketched, my suggestion was to fur the entire wall (if it's not to long). That way it's not noticeable.

 

[ard]

As opposed to what ard sketched, my suggestion was to fur the entire wall (if it's not to long). That way it's not noticeable.

Agree, that was my original suggestion a few pages ago but OP never responded to the query 'how long is that wall?'

Also, if there is a door or window in the wall, it will need a jamb extension or something, to compensate.

OP: Let us know, someone will have a solution....

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

With that type of attitude one should not be doing any type of construction work, particularly electrical, the work should be performed in the same manner, inspected or not.

 

[alfredeneuman]

with that type of attitude one should not be doing any type of construction work, particularly electrical, the work should be performed in the same manner, inspected or not.

 

[arsco]

Use a plumbing torch. Make sure to continuously move the flame.

this, plus wrapping the conduit in aluminum foil a few times

 

[Tarheel Slim]

Agree, that was my original suggestion a few pages ago but OP never responded to the query 'how long is that wall?'

Also, if there is a door or window in the wall, it will need a jamb extension or something, to compensate.

OP: Let us know, someone will have a solution....

30 ft. long wall with 2 windows down the run..

 

[Tarheel Slim]

Ok thanks ard,that makes more sense now,not a bad idea,not sure if its the look i want,also plan on having a tv, fridge and a few bar stools set up there in that corner area so i need to keep as much free space as possible,however this is a good solution.

 

[Radix2]

Ok thanks ard,that makes more sense now,not a bad idea,not sure if its the look i want,also plan on having a tv, fridge and a few bar stools set up there in that corner area so i need to keep as much free space as possible,however this is a good solution.

Just to be clear - your panel is surface mounted ? Correct?

If so, all you need to fur out is the area directly under the panel to cover the conduits. Two four ft 2x4s should do it. No need to bend any conduits.

The alternative is to fur the wall out for the last three feet or so, all the way up, and then the panel would be flush, and again, the conduits hidden. Certainly the nicest finished look and would go best with bar stools etc.

 

[Tarheel Slim]

Just got off the phone with the inspector he said no need to run the pvc conduit to the box since its tech cable going to the service,he said to use the puddy type stuff to seal the conduit,i thought maybe a reducer on the end of the pvc would look a bit better.Thanks for all the great ideas people....keep them coming maybe we can help a few other people with the same shituation as me...

 

[TheEquineFencer]

I got tired of reading all the threads. If heating the PVC without burning the place down is the goal I'll throw this out...Get some wire, probably 12 gauge, wrap it tightly around the PVC with the wires "stacked beside itself", make about 3-4 layers of wire on the PVC. If you can get to the inside of the PVC put a steel pipe inside or maybe a handful of rebar. Then intermittently apply 12VDC to the wire, not enough to let the smoke out. It'll heat the PVC in short order(Pun intended). The wound wire will build inductance and NOT smoke right to start with.

Sometimes you have to apply an understanding of electricity in ways it's not normally thought of being applied.

 

[Muzzy]

I have no advice on bending PVC, but instead of furring out the wall, could you use the appropriate fitting to bend the conduit back into the wall cavity, then pour a concrete 'step' a couple inches up to hide the bump out at the bottom of the wall? If you're going with an industrial scheme, make it the required 36" of spacing and stripe it.
Say it's to help short people see into the panel better....