bending type L & M copper

[69gp]

Couple of questions, any help would be appreciated. Looking to install some 3/4" cooper pipe for a rooftop solar system and for some baseboard heat. I would like to use 20' lengths and limit the amount of joints. Also would like to be able to field bend the pipe.

Any suggestions on a bender?

Will a bender work on both L&M type copper?

thanks

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I've never personally attempted to bend 'rigid' copper as I know it's not designed to be bent in it's 'as is' condition. You're best to use fittings for directional changes or you would need to anneal it at the bend location, which seems counter-productive.

'Soft' copper comes in rolls and is annealed so it is fairly pliable.

 

[mike93lx]

Between handling 20ft stick and needing to anneal, it will be faster and easier to use 10ft sticks and joint.

If you can get a tool (maybe buy used and resell?) propress would make this super easy and fast

 

[Jackfre]

I would us soft copper. Roll it out, nail one end to the floor and pull it straight with a come along. Once straight you can cut and bend as you choose. Solar for baseboard does not work very well. Baseboard is a high temp emitter needing over 140 to do much and 180 is better. Those temps with while achievable greatly reduce collector efficiency. Solar is good with radiant, hydro air or the Euro panel rads

 

[pancho400cid]

I have never tried to bend 3/4" type K or L, but in my experience, off-the-shelf rigid copper tubing doesn't bend well at all.

I HAVE worked with 3/8" rigid for instrument air piping and we had a nightmare of a time, with many breaks in lines on the fourth of four carefully measured bends followed by the mechanic hurling the tubing and bender across the room (slight exaggeration), etc.

After we realized the issue we started specifying "light drawn" (H55) tubing. That worked like a charm. It was still "rigid" and came in 20 ft sticks, but was much easier to bend and eliminated the breakage issues.

Some info:
https://refcouplingsys.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/WP_BCT_2.0-040119-Bending-Copper-Tube-White-Paper.pdf


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[69gp]

Thanks all for the info. just to clarify solar hot water is for future domestic hot water heater and the baseboard heat will be from the boiler. Just trying to avoid as many joints as possible

 

[mike93lx]

Thanks all for the info. just to clarify solar hot water is for future domestic hot water heater and the baseboard heat will be from the boiler. Just trying to avoid as many joints as possible

How about PEX?

 

[Jim greengo]

Get a roll of 7/8,and a roll of 5/8" uninsulated hvac copper.

 

[tinmanwpk]

Use a roll of soft K copper. Fewer joints as well.

 

[samss]

Mueller Industries makes copper tubing and fittings. A 7/8" return bend would require two connections. With a tubing expander and bender you could make your own return bends with soft drawn copper.

 

[danski0224]

Ridgid has a ratcheting bender that will bend refrigeration piping that comes in 20 foot lengths. I've seen it in action. No need for annealing.

This is not a lever bender for so called soft copper like AC linesets.

I've seen them for sale on craigslist.

Otherwise, soft copper for plumbing is available in rolls, and a lever bender will work.

 

[The Cobbler]

L is bendable. M not made for bending, the wall is too thin and kinks

 

[dogdog]

Bending with what bender ? and your expected CLR... A custom mandrel bender Die? Don't think those HF benders will cut it.

Lots of youtube shows bending with packed sand and welded plugs on both ends. Might be cheaper to just use Elbows and connectors and brazing the connections instead... Since you are not drinking those Solar Waters.

 

[danski0224]

This tool will do the job:

https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/geared-ratchet-tube-benders

 

[LS6 Tommy]

This tool will do the job:

https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/geared-ratchet-tube-benders

Pretty spendy for an almost definite one-time use. Don't try it on Big Box Store tubing unless you like being angry and throwiing away copper. DAMHIK...

Tommy

 

[BD1]

I agree with Propress as stated. Just follow instructions and mark pipe joints for full inserteration.


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[mike93lx]

Pretty spendy for an almost definite one-time use. Don't try it on Big Box Store tubing unless you like being angry and throwiing away copper. DAMHIK...

Tommy

Edit: my bad, though you were referring to propress, not a bender.

I know, but I if you can find a used tool, I bet you can resell for about the same price. Just ties up some cash for a bit.

My entire furnace was done in propress and damn, it looks nice. No solder runs, no burn marks, just clean and I bet it went in quickly too

 

[theoldwizard1]

3/4" and 1" annealed (soft) copper does exist. Probably have to get it at a pluming supply warehouse.

 

[pancho400cid]

From the link I posted:

"It is possible to physically bend drawn general purpose (H58) tubing, but the result is not acceptable. Bending H58 is not recommended by the tubing manufacturers."

Cut to Jeff Goldblum character in Jurrasic park:

"Your scientists (err.. mean plumbers) were so preoccupied with whether or not they COULD, they didn’t stop to think if they SHOULD"



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[danski0224]

Pretty spendy for an almost definite one-time use. Don't try it on Big Box Store tubing unless you like being angry and throwiing away copper. DAMHIK...

Tommy

Those tools aren't hard to find used.

 

[fitter30]

Only l&k can be bent. If you haven't bent conduit and know what your take offs are you will have missed bends and offsets. What are you going to do about couplings?

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[stokefire7]

It's a great idea to bend it the finished look , I think , is better. I have both the 5/8 and 7/8 ratcheting benders from Ridgid. It'll waste your time to try and bend M tubing with these. My Rems curvo will do type M with no problems with deformation.

 

[stokefire7]

A couple more pics. 7/8" L on the domestic side of my boiler and 1 1/8" M on my boiler.

 

[stokefire7]

In case you're interested, here's some 1 1/4" M.