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Bendpak 2 post lift install with Racedeck flooring

roadrunner255

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Joined
Mar 17, 2011
Messages
241
Location
Driftwood, Texas
Hello all,

I had my Bendpak XPR 10A LP installed today. removed the racedeck and had the columns bolted directly to the concrete.

What have folks done regarding arm contact with the racedeck flooring?

One suggestion I found was to crazy glue quarters together under the arm restraint pins.

You still have to manually lower the arms so there is a slight gap between the racedeck and bottom of arms.

Spoke to Bendpak and they have plates to install between the concrete and base. To expensive, they also said that you could have them fabricated.

Looks like for now spacers under the arm restraint pins and base plate.

Cheers!
 
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OP
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roadrunner255

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Joined
Mar 17, 2011
Messages
241
Location
Driftwood, Texas
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SiGmA_X

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Aug 13, 2005
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Portland, OR
I would cut and drill some steel to space the post up. Probably would have been easier to do that before you installed the posts though, especially being you'll need to have the anchors long enough to account for the height.
 
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zeeway

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Jun 29, 2016
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84
Location
South Carolina
I would paint the floor black around the post, and then trim the racedeck to fit within a half inch of the bottom plate.
 

mwilson6192

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Jul 11, 2014
Messages
16
^^^ That is what I did with my 2-post lift. I also simply adhered the "non-loop" side of a large Velcro patch to the bottom of the lift arms where it contacts the RaceDeck floor. The lift arms and car are at equivalent levels if you will just as if there was no RaceDeck floor present.
 
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SiGmA_X

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Portland, OR
OP's problem is that the lift arms are dragging on the RaceDeck. If its not dragging too hard, perhaps you would be fine using loop Velcro. If it drags too much, space up the columns 1/4-1/2" depending on the needs. And then, of course, trim back the RaceDeck.
 

CombatNinja

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Aug 24, 2013
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1,456
That is going to drive you nuts forever unless you address it correctly. Unfortunately, any solution other than cutting some steel and moving the lift up about 3/4" is just a half measure. Bite the bullet and get someone to fab some spacers and put them in there. I personally wouldn't worry too much about losing less than an inch of thread into the slab. Then again, my cars tend to be a lot smaller then that Avalanche. My heaviest car right now is a 2014 BMW 328i. Maybe get the steel plates fabbed and source some longer bolts to compensate? Did you install it or did you hire it out? Hard to believe a pro would show up without spacers.
 

SiGmA_X

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Joined
Aug 13, 2005
Messages
1,111
Location
Portland, OR
That is going to drive you nuts forever unless you address it correctly. Unfortunately, any solution other than cutting some steel and moving the lift up about 3/4" is just a half measure. Bite the bullet and get someone to fab some spacers and put them in there. I personally wouldn't worry too much about losing less than an inch of thread into the slab. Then again, my cars tend to be a lot smaller then that Avalanche. My heaviest car right now is a 2014 BMW 328i. Maybe get the steel plates fabbed and source some longer bolts to compensate? Did you install it or did you hire it out? Hard to believe a pro would show up without spacers.
I think they used wedge anchors, you aren't going to get them to back out - and you surely don't WANT them to back out. I would measure the extra threads on each of the anchors and make (or have made? I DIY my fab :lol_hitti) a plate that thickness.

I'm also surprised a pro would do that.
 
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