Bendpak 4 post lifts

[Dolfan]

I've been looking to add a 4-post lift to my garage, mainly for storage, I'm using a MaxJax now for maintenance projects.

I like the Bendpak lifts, they seem to be well built, but the use of compressed air for the lock mechanism has me a bit confused. I'm not too crazy about having to have the compressor powered up and pressured up to operate the lift. Also the idea of having to run the hose over to the lift is just another thing to factor in.

I'm not against the lifts, or design, just wanted to hear from owners that have had these lifts on there thoughts.

 

[ghnl]

I assume you could get one of those small portable air tanks & leave it charged full of air for those times when you don't want to turn on the air compressor.

 

[Cryptic1911]

The needing air thing is a slight drawback, but it is a much much better design than the manual cable release types

 

[Matt M PA]

They offer an option for an on board air bottle that fills when the lift is raised. ETek's got one. No external air needed.

 

[ryno]

It is not really really a big deal. You only need the air supply for the lowering of the lift. I'd imagine if you have it located in a shop,you'll more then likely have air available, if not try a portable air tank as mentioned. It uses very little air pressure and cfm to activate the locks

 

[Cryptic1911]

I had one of those, but returned it. As much as I love my bendpak lift, I was a bit disappointed by the air bottle and the price. I ended up buying a cheap compressor for temporary use for less than the air bottle cost

 

[ket-tek]

I installed the air bottle on one lift and plumbed permanent air to the other. I agree the price of the bottle is very high for what you get in materials, but in function it does work well. You could make the same thing for under $50.

Now if it ever becomes what was mentioned in the original thread (a machined bottle not just a chunk of galvinized pipe then it would make the $190 price tag more acceptable)

I don't see why there is generally so much concern going around about needing air at a lift. For one like mentioned it eliminates all the linkages and levers for the locking system, second is the SECONDARY SAFETY lock system, this additional safety was one main reason I chose the BP when comparing lifts.

If you are already considering a BP, then your not looking for the cheapest lift out there, so spring for the bottle kit and don't worry about air, or plumb air to it as most people with a lift have air in the garage already. It takes relativity no pressure, so if your compressor storage tank stays pumped then it won't turn on to just use the lift locks.

No complaints, I'm very pleased with my purchase decisions..

Here is the plumbed lift, I had to run power to the ceiling so I just ran air with it at the same time:

 

[Dolfan]

By no means is the need for air a deal breaker just wanted to hear how folks that have installed it and are using it feel about the system.

What I'm hearing is not to worry about it! And since I will need to run electric that means I may have the opportunity to run the air with that line.

I also have a very small 1/2 gallon compressor I use for a nail gun that I could donate to the project and maybe mount it just below the hydraulic unit, then I just need the electric.

 

[ovilla]

I installed the air bottle on one lift and plumbed permanent air to the other. I agree the price of the bottle is very high for what you get in materials, but in function it does work well. You could make the same thing for under $50.

Now if it ever becomes what was mentioned in the original thread (a machined bottle not just a chunk of galvinized pipe then it would make the $190 price tag more acceptable)

I don't see why there is generally so much concern going around about needing air at a lift. For one like mentioned it eliminates all the linkages and levers for the locking system, second is the SECONDARY SAFETY lock system, this additional safety was one main reason I chose the BP when comparing lifts.

If you are already considering a BP, then your not looking for the cheapest lift out there, so spring for the bottle kit and don't worry about air, or plumb air to it as most people with a lift have air in the garage already. It takes relativity no pressure, so if your compressor storage tank stays pumped then it won't turn on to just use the lift locks.

No complaints, I'm very pleased with my purchase decisions..

Here is the plumbed lift, I had to run power to the ceiling so I just ran air with it at the same time:

ket-tek - Please tell me about your red/green switch labeled (START / STOP). Is this a kill switch for your bendpak? If so, where did you pick it up at and what's it rated at? I've been looking for something like this for a while now. Thanks

 

[holdover]

The air locks use very little volume, If you are concerned about running your big compressor, go to HF or Northern tools and buy one of their $39.00 on sale with coupon small compressors, mount it on the post with the Hyd pump, on the secoundary mounting tab, and you will be good to go. I often use mine if I am not doing air tool shop work, takes a very short time to work the air locks. I personally rather have the BendPac air lock system as a secondary safety, rather than a mechanical one. I bought two of them a HD9 & HD 12

 

[AndysMBgarage]

The air locks use very little volume, If you are concerned about running your big compressor, go to HF or Northern tools and buy one of their $39.00 on sale with coupon small compressors, mount it on the post with the Hyd pump, on the secoundary mounting tab, and you will be good to go.

If you could post up a couple of pics I'd appreciate it

 

[ket-tek]

ket-tek - Please tell me about your red/green switch labeled (START / STOP). Is this a kill switch for your bendpak? If so, where did you pick it up at and what's it rated at? I've been looking for something like this for a while now. Thanks

Although most lift installs I've seen people don't install disconnect switches at the pole, I really wanted to for a couple reasons. First I can't leave stuff alone, second I have a finished room above the garage so I wanted extra safety if the momentary switch arc/fused in the run position or the motor ever started to smoke/spark I could smack the switch quickly to kill all power instantly, and third this is an attached garage with people/kids/guests that come thru so it is always powered off unless I am running it. (even though they could easily turn it on it's an extra step)

My local code when I was building the house did not care about inspecting the lift as long as it was disconnectable and not hard wired. I used a twist-lock 30amp plug in the ceiling so the weight of the cord 12ft up would not pull it out, but this stops me from quickly yanking the cord out if needed. The breaker panel is kinda far away and I don't like using breakers as daily power switches.

It is rated at 240v 30amps and it breaks both legs. It took me a couple weeks to find one that was rated high enough that wasn't a big throw lever Square D hvac type box, I liked the cleaner look of this one. I found many sites that had switches that looked just like it but they where rated much lower, I can't remember off hand where I ended up buying it, but it was from the interenet somewhere. It came complete with the proper depth black 1 gang rear mounting box as well, some of the other that looked the same on the from were just the front half.

If I can find it again I will post where.

 

[lovebohn]

ket-tek I sent you a PM about your switch but thought maybe this would be a good spot to update where you found it.