Bendpak HD-9 (older model) wiring question

[tjf]

I recently purchased a used Bendpak HD-9 for my shop. The shop currently has a 220, 20amp, 3 prong locking receptacle for an air compressor that I no longer use. The lift has a 4 prong pigtail already installed. Amazon offers an adaptor that allows me to plug the current pigtail into my current receptacle. Any reason I should not go this route? It seems like the easiest/cheapest solution--but I dont want to damage anything.

Sorry if this is a silly question. I know nothing about 220 wiring. Thanks in advance.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Someone didnt know what they were doing or wanted to plug it into an existing 4-wire outlet.

The HD-9 is 240v only meaning you only need a 3-wire receptacle- 2 hots and ground. The breaker also needs to be 25a per the manual so it should be hardwired or use larger plug.

 

[tjf]

Thanks for the response. I appreciate the help. I assume the original owner of the lift wanted to make it work with an existing outlet (which I would also like to do for simplicity's sake).

not sure if this changes anything, but this is a 10 year old HD-9, so the specs might be different that current models. Here are the spec sheets on the motor for reference (just in case it changes anything):

 

[rancherbill]

Wyliediesels nails it. My only question is where is the receptacle? welder receptacles tend to be lower, for the lift it's nice to have them on the ceiling.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Wow thats a horribly inefficient 2HP motor if it pulls 18a @ 230v as the FLC tables in 430.248 lists 2HP as 13.2a @ 208v and 12a @ 240v...... I dont see a service factor on it either....

Or its mislabeled and thus larger than 2HP... more like 3.5HP....

my guess is its mislabeled...

Regardless, #12 NM-b is too small if thats what you have in the walls...

Also, a 20a circuit breaker is most likely too small for that motor since it pulls 18a running and on startup may trip a 20a breaker....

 

[wssix99]

What do the instructions for the lift say? I expect they call for a 25A circuit. So, if you aren't into electrical - you are going to need an electrician to assist with the lift wiring and/or what is in your walls.

 

[tjf]

Wyliediesels nails it. My only question is where is the receptacle? welder receptacles tend to be lower, for the lift it's nice to have them on the ceiling.

RancherBill, you are correct that the receptacle is closer to the ground. I agree that, eventually, I will want a permanent receptacle above the lift. However, the lift came with a caster kit and the shop/barn it is in is around 6000 sq. ft. of open area that I share with my Dad and brother. The barn serves multiple purposes (wood shop, farm equipment, general storage, etc...) so I don't know exactly where the lift will eventually find permanent placement. That is part of the reason I am wanting to use this solution for now.

 

[tjf]

What do the instructions for the lift say? I expect they call for a 25A circuit. So, if you aren't into electrical - you are going to need an electrician to assist with the lift wiring and/or what is in your walls.

Wssix99, The instructions are strangely silent on wiring requirements.

 

[tjf]

Regardless, #12 NM-b is too small if thats what you have in the walls...

Also, a 20a circuit breaker is most likely too small for that motor since it pulls 18a running and on startup may trip a 20a breaker....

Wyliediesels, sadly I have no clue what type of wire is in the conduit (luckily, there are not interior walls in this barn). The breaker for this circuit, however, appears to be a 100 amp tandem breaker.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Wyliediesels, sadly I have no clue what type of wire is in the conduit (luckily, there are not interior walls in this barn). The breaker for this circuit, however, appears to be a 100 amp tandem breaker.

i highly doubt that 100a breaker feeds that 20a receptacle. it has a hold down screw which tells me its a backfed main...

youre gonna have to open the panel to see what kind of wire was used.

 

[tjf]

Gotcha. That makes more sense.

 

[tjf]

First: thanks for all the responses and thanks for taking pity on my lack of electrical knowledge.

Second: This next question is not because I am not listening or heeding everyone’s advice. I am, and plan to do this correctly as per yalls suggestions—but electricians in my area are booked out for months.

That said: am I going to screw anything up if I use this solution as a band-aid for the time being (photos below)?

I just need to get the casters off and an empty boat trailer off the floor (for storage) for the time being.

 

[Jim greengo]

Wyliediesels, sadly I have no clue what type of wire is in the conduit (luckily, there are not interior walls in this barn). The breaker for this circuit, however, appears to be a 100 amp tandem breaker.

That looks like a main breaker for the sub panel to me anyway.
Can you pull the cover off of the panel and follow the wires out of the conduit?

 

[tjf]

Just to complete the information loop on this one, looks like the conduit to my 220 outlet is a 20amp breaker with 12 ga wire (bottom right breaker).

Looks like I will be having an electrician wire up an entirely new circuit.

 

[sanddan]

First: thanks for all the responses and thanks for taking pity on my lack of electrical knowledge.

Second: This next question is not because I am not listening or heeding everyone’s advice. I am, and plan to do this correctly as per yalls suggestions—but electricians in my area are booked out for months.

That said: am I going to screw anything up if I use this solution as a band-aid for the time being (photos below)?

I just need to get the casters off and an empty boat trailer off the floor (for storage) for the time being.

It mentions a generator transfer switch. I have similar setup for my gen backup setup for the house. On mine, it is two separate 120v circuits that are split in the house panel so the load is shared by both legs. The 4 prong plug is on the generator side, 5500 watt. No idea if this is the same on yours. Not sure if this helps.