Bendpak HD-9XW shimming...

[maxxpower]

I'm not sure if I'm committing a mortal sin here or not? Since I have a floor drain very close to the one leg of my lift I shimmed it with plywood along with a lesser amount on the other front leg to compensate for the drainage slope of my floor. I also need to move the lift for winter/summer use for storage/access reasons so bolting it down is not an option. As it sits in the pictures it is very close to level in all directions, but I have questions...

1) What is the maximum and normal deflection of the upright posts from side to side or front to back? Currently they are all very close with the worst being out about 1" from base plate to top of post when loaded. Is this anything to worry about?

2) The cross bars will not go low enough to touch the base plates so the lowest the lift will go is still about 5/8" from the plates. I cannot go any lower and still maintain the 1" of bolt above the nut at the top of the posts as the directions say is a must. Is this normal?

3) My plywood shims and conveyor belt floor protectors... Is this a bad practice? I've read about these lifts moving a little bit while being used and thought the conveyor belt would help "stick it" in place while also protecting my floor. With a very little use the lift doesn't seem to want to move anywhere or try to shift on the plywood, but am I adding stress because of the rubber belting or potential problems becasue of the plywood?

Thanks for any and all help... and love my lift!!

Greg

 

[nperkins]

Re: Bendpak HD-9XW shiming..

I dont know about your wood problem, but what is that gorgeous floor coating?

 

[nehog]

I would never consider wood (ply or otherwise) for this purpose. Wood will deform with time, and is not considered stable. I'd use something else, either steel plate, or for thin shims, plastic.

But things are not nearly as demanding with a four post lift.

If you must leave the ply, at least seal the edges and exposed surfaces to minimize shrinkage. And remember to periodically re-torque the bolts.

 

[nperkins]

I would never consider wood (ply or otherwise) for this purpose. Wood will deform with time, and is not considered stable. I'd use something else, either steel plate, or for thin shims, plastic.

But things are not nearly as demanding with a four post lift.

If you must leave the ply, at least seal the edges and exposed surfaces to minimize shrinkage. And remember to periodically re-torque the bolts.

What bolts? He said he's NOT bolting it.. Which is why i would think the plywood shouldn't be that bad... since he'll be moving it, its easy to cut new pieces of plywood if need be.

 

[Jack Olsen]

I'm no engineer. But I'd be fine with that. A four-post lift is a different animal altogether than a two-post lift.

 

[maxxpower]

Thanks for the floor comment, it's an industrial epoxy coating. They diamond ground the entire floor to start and then applied 3 coats of epoxy. In the connecting garage that is used for day to day vehicles I added aluminum oxide for non slip while wet (but it's a pain to sweep).

I'm not too worried about the plywood deteriorating as this garage has heat and central air so it's pretty stable as far as temp. and humidity.

How about the posts, any thoughts as to them leaning one way or another by an inch or two from top to bottom? Would you be worried working under it?

 

[ket-tek]

My XW is on a sloped floor. I don't have a floor drain but the floor slopes toward the bay doors. It drops about 1.5" over the approx 20' that the lift spans.

The lift has adjustments for the unlevel floor which was one of the many reasons I chose the BP..

The posts are not shimmed off the floor, and when down the runways lay flat on the floor all the way and at the same slope as the floor. But when you lift it is level and the when setting on the stops in the ladder bars the runways are level.

I adjusted the ladder bars down approx 3/4" in the rear (high side) and approx 3/4" up on the front bay door side (low side) and this equaled out the 1.5" slope when setting on the locks.

Then adjusted the cables so that the locks engage as close to each other as you can get it per the install manual.

This way no shims needed, it lays flat all the way, lifts level and locks level.

It took an afternoon of tweaking to get it perfect, lots of measuring and running around with a level on all sides and ratcheting the ladders and cables in various increments.

The lift is also not bolted and I get no real skewing, tiliting, or otherwise out of place movements in the corner posts. And what you mention about sticking the post to the floor isn't really needed, as it will sway some if you pull on it but it is not going to scoot on the floor with a car lifted on it..

The length of the cable is fixed and the height of the post is fixed, so you should have no problems taking it all the way down to the ground, unlevel or not you shouldn't have any issues with that. But I can't say to go less than the 1" exposed thread. I would call BP support for input on that.

It seems as your sloping issue is worse than mine as yours seem to be going across the width of the lift at an uneven rate as well as down the length.

If you want to bolt it you can use the female inserts in the floor like the maxjax come with and use standard bolts down into them so they are flush when you take the bolts out and move the lift. Instead of the long male studs that ship with the lift.

 

[ket-tek]

How about the posts, any thoughts as to them leaning one way or another by an inch or two from top to bottom? Would you be worried working under it?

After installing 2 BP four posts and doing all kinds of work on them, cars, trucks, mower, ford tractor w/ loader, used with the runways overhead for lifting a motor, and also lifting the cab off a truck to get the frame out I am very comfortable using the lift.

The way the crossbeams are captive in the columns although it may sway it really can't just topple. It seems it would bind way before it could go over completely sideways.

Like I mentioned though my columns do stay pretty level and equal distance, so your floor situation may be a bit too much to compensate for.

If this is the case, and it was me. I would either bolt it with female anchors so you can move it when you need, or I would get steel leveling plates made at the height and floor angle you need for it to be perfect, and drill/tap holes in them to put short bolts through the foot into them and keep them under the foot but still removable.

 

[nehog]

What bolts? He said he's NOT bolting it.. Which is why i would think the plywood shouldn't be that bad... since he'll be moving it, its easy to cut new pieces of plywood if need be.

I realize that, but think about it, one pad gets damp and swells, the other dries out and shrinks, and no more level... That's one of the reasons I suggested plastic as an alternative.

But also as I mentioned, sealing the wood would help greatly.

 

[jimmie jam]

i have a new HD-9STX (longer/higher lift). it is not bolted down and does not need to be. my garage floor slopes 3" from rear to front (only because i matched the existing garage floor to this 600 SF addition. the installers adjusted the post ladders to get it level. right now the C6 is on the lift 7 feet off the floor and there is some "out of plum" and it's about 1"+- on some posts. i'm not worried about this at all. it's not the floor, its the way that the lift is built. FYI, i'm going to do the exact same thing that you did with the shims. plywood is o.k. but i'll most likely use solid blocks w/rubber pads between the floor and block (1/4" thick).

i think that you are fine....i know that i am with mine. just make sure when you go to lower the lift and raise it up 2" to press the unlock button that you WATCH ALL FOUR CORNERS when you start to lower it to make sure that all four locks disengaged and one or more are not "hung up". ask me how i know about this .

 

[maxxpower]

Thanks for the floor compliment! It's an industrial epoxy floor coating that started with diamond grinding the entire floor (2500+ sq. ft.) and then 3 coats of epoxy. (aluminum oxide was used to give non slip in potentially wet areas, but not in the lift area)

I'm getting the feeling that I am probably OK with the lift as is. I'm not too worried about the plywood as my garage is heated and air conditioned and the lift area does not get wet other than spills. Plywood is also plenty stong enough as it's compressive strenght is about 4.5 mpa or 653lbs. per sq. in. With the pads at 10" x 12" this equates to load bearing of 78,360 lbs. per leg or 313,440 lbs. for the entire lift... I think I have plenty of safety margin here.

I also thought about adjusting the lift itself so the platforms are level, but when I push it in the corner for winter storage the floor is level there and I didn't want to go through the hassle of re-adjusting everything twice a year. Thought it would be easier just to throw some plywood under it.

The thing that makes me wonder most is the upright deflection of the posts and I can't seem to locate the posts so they will stay perfectly straight when used with or without a load and while it is up or down. I get it perfect in one situation, but it will not stay that way in the next? I wonder if the conveyor belting could be holding the posts from naturally moving and self righting the posts? But I would think if all is straight they wouldn't need to move?

Still need more confirmation before letting this go. Thanks to all that have replied so far, it really does help to learn from others experience!

-G

 

[crlogan]

My floor has a nice epoxy finish as well. I am looking for rubber pads like you made to use on all 4 posts. Where were you able to obtain that material?