Bendpak HD9-ST install... not raising level???

[danieldolin]

Got my HD9-ST installed today by local lift company. When it is sitting on the locks, the lift is level, however when raising, one corner is about a full second behind the other 3 to "click" for each lock it passes... Is this an easy adjustment? From what I can reason, the ladder does not need adjusting as it sits level when on the locks, it seems that the cable needs adjusting so that one corner is up a little higher.

Can someone please explain exactly which nut to turn (pics would be great) to achieve the proper adjustment on this? I am very new to the lift and the instruction manual is not really much of a help on this.

I would rather not take more time off work to have the install guys come back out if this is an easy adjustment.

Other than that, I am very happy with the lift, and thanks to GJ members input here I had 2 spray cans of bendpak touch up paint at my house before the lift so I was ready for all the scraches / scuffs that occurred during transport.

Here is a quick pic below... Someone please help me with the proper adjustment on the cable!

 

[Murphy4570]

Turn the big nut that holds the cable. Use a tape measure to adjust all four posts so they are dead level when the cables are under tension.

 

[Cryptic1911]

Lift it up about a foot, and then measure the distance from the floor to the ramps on each corner, and see if those are off. If they are, try to get them level by adjusting the big nut on the stud on top of the poles (the ones in the center).

If those are level, you can adjust the safety bars that sit inside the posts (the long rectangle things with the square holes). If those are not level, the squares will be at different heights, and make the locks engage at different times. You can adjust those with the smaller of the two stud / nuts on the top of the posts (near the outside). If you raise the lift up, you can measure the height from the floor to the first square in the plate, and adjust them accordingly

 

[Cryptic1911]

Actually, in looking at the picture, I can see that the post closest to the camera has very little threads showing from the cable stud. That one might be adjusted long, and could be the source of your odd timed clanging from locks engaging

 

[jhelrey]

Cables do stretch

 

[danieldolin]

Actually, in looking at the picture, I can see that the post closest to the camera has very little threads showing from the cable stud. That one might be adjusted long, and could be the source of your odd timed clanging from locks engaging

Yes, this is the problem post... it clicks about a second behind the other 3 posts. So I should raise the lift slightly off the ground (about a foot) and then adjust this cable? I think there is more slack in this cable than in the other 3 and that could be the problem, but I just want to make sure before I start turning things

Lift it up about a foot, and then measure the distance from the floor to the ramps on each corner, and see if those are off. If they are, try to get them level by adjusting the big nut on the stud on top of the poles (the ones in the center).

Turn the big nut that holds the cable. Use a tape measure to adjust all four posts so they are dead level when the cables are under tension.

For the above two posts, I would think measuring from the floor to the lift runway would not be a good judge as the floor slopes towards the drain and you want the lift to be level even if the floor is not correct?

 

[davedriveschevys]

With nothing on the lift, tighten the cable that is clicking late until they all click in unison.

 

[James E]

With nothing on the lift, tighten the cable that is clicking late until they all click in unison.

This.

First, make sure that when the lift is sitting on the ladder bars, it's dead level all around, THEN adjust the cables so that the safety locks clang in unison.

The one that is slow needs the cable tightened (bolts moved down so that more threads show on top of the top plate).

 

[danieldolin]

With nothing on the lift, tighten the cable that is clicking late until they all click in unison.

This.

First, make sure that when the lift is sitting on the ladder bars, it's dead level all around, THEN adjust the cables so that the safety locks clang in unison.

The one that is slow needs the cable tightened (bolts moved down so that more threads show on top of the top plate).

Thanks guys, this makes sense to me... I am going to get my hands on a bigger level before I do anything and make sure it is dead level while on locks, I think it is...

To do the tightening of the cable that is slow... I need to turn (tighten) the large bolt on the slow corner. Do I hold the cable inside with anything while turing the bolt? While I was watching part of the install, he was using locking plyers to hold the top of the cable from turning while he was making adjustments. Just curious if I should be doing this as well?

Anything else I am missing? Remember I am very novice to these adjustments!

Thans guys!

-Dan

 

[danieldolin]

anyone know the size of that big nut, I will have to go get a socket...

 

[MikeMustang]

I used a large adjustable wrench on the nut and vice grips on the cable to keep it from spinning.

 

[saabman]

From memory, the big nut is 1 1/16 inches. Use vise grips on the swedged interface to the cable. Gripping the cable may damage the cable.

 

[darkk]

anyone know the size of that big nut, I will have to go get a socket...

We adjusted the 4 locking bars until they were all equal. I used a large adjustable wrench and a pair of vise grips when adjusting the cables. I stood on the lift ramp and raised it a couple feet, then I measured from the edge of the lift ramp to the floor. When they were all equal everything was good. The cables will need to be adjusted periodically as the cables will stretch with use.

 

[Cryptic1911]

Yes, this is the problem post... it clicks about a second behind the other 3 posts. So I should raise the lift slightly off the ground (about a foot) and then adjust this cable? I think there is more slack in this cable than in the other 3 and that could be the problem, but I just want to make sure before I start turning things





For the above two posts, I would think measuring from the floor to the lift runway would not be a good judge as the floor slopes towards the drain and you want the lift to be level even if the floor is not correct?

yeah, that's the one you want to adjust.. you'll have to tighten the nut to pull the cable / stud up some.

As for the floor being sloped, yeah that may not be the best way for your setup. You can just adjust the cable tighter some, then run it up a few clicks and go by ear to see if it's adjusted right

 

[darkk]

I would think measuring from the floor to the lift runway would not be a good judge as the floor slopes towards the drain and you want the lift to be level even if the floor is not correct?

With a two post install the floor slope should be no more than 1/8" per foot. A 4 post lift is much more forgiving and would be much steadier, especially if you anchor it to the floor. Our floor slopes 1/8" per foot and our 4 post Bend Pak is NOT anchored to the floor. We've had no problems and the lift is pretty steady when up with a vehicle on it. If your slope is not excessive I wouldn't worry about it. If you have any real concerns, call Bend Pak. Those guys are great to work with and know their equipment better than anyone else. Us included.

 

[James E]

The problem with measuring to the floor is that if your floor is sloped, this is not the way to level the lift rails. If you use measurements off of the floor, the lift will raise and sit at the same slope as the floor, which is a no no.

You want the rails in the air a few feet and resting on the ladder bars when you level it. This is the only way to ensure that when a car is up on the lift, it is sitting level. When you lower the lift all the way, slack in the front two cables will allow the lift to sit flush on the sloped floor.

After leveling the lift off of the ground, then and only then do you adjust the cables so that the safety locks trip in unison. Having them trip in unison ensures that the lift is raising with a level attitude and helps ensure that when you pass a ladder point and then lower the lift onto it, you haven't missed one corner. Missing one corner (the late one) and then lowering the lift into position can allow the late corner to miss that position and sag, possibly allowing the car to shift or the lift to tweak and bend.

This is why it is imperative that the lift rails be level from side to side and front to back and that the cables be adjusted properly so that all four safety locks trip on all four corners almost simultaneously.

I did what MikeMustang did. Vice grips on the flats at the end of the cables and an adjustable wrench on the nuts. Remember to tighten the second nut (locking the adjustment into place) when you've got it where you want it.

HTH, James.

 

[danieldolin]

With a two post install the floor slope should be no more than 1/8" per foot. A 4 post lift is much more forgiving and would be much steadier, especially if you anchor it to the floor. Our floor slopes 1/8" per foot and our 4 post Bend Pak is NOT anchored to the floor. We've had no problems and the lift is pretty steady when up with a vehicle on it. If your slope is not excessive I wouldn't worry about it. If you have any real concerns, call Bend Pak. Those guys are great to work with and know their equipment better than anyone else. Us included.

I am not concerned about the amount of slope, but I just do not think the runway should be equidistant from the floor in all locations, I would rather have it sit level on the locks. I will get some vice grips and a 1 1/16 deep socket to adjust the cable nut.

Can someone please confirm the size of the nut is 1 1/16" please???

Thanks guys!

 

[Cryptic1911]

I don't remember what the size was, but you could always use an adjustable wrench on it

 

[James E]

Can someone please confirm the size of the nut is 1 1/16" please???

Just use an adjustable or a channel-lock. A deep-well 1 1/16 socket would be awfully expensive--assuming you could even find one.

 

[danieldolin]

Just use an adjustable or a channel-lock. A deep-well 1 1/16 socket would be awfully expensive--assuming you could even find one.

Yeah, I just found that I already have an adjustable wrench that will work... I thought all I had was a channel-lock and I hate using those... just need to pick up some vise grips and I am all set to adjust.

 

[danieldolin]

okay guys, thanks for you help! I was able to adjust the cables so now all the locks "clank" at approximatly the same time even under load of raising the car (they were much more in sync with the lift empty) Now my question is this, when the lift is all the way lowered, the far end cross bar is almost flat against the base plate but the front cross bar is about 1/2" or so off the base plate. This is causing the alluminum ramps to flex when I drive up them as the ramp gives until the sides hit the ground.

Is this normal? Does everyones alluminum ramps do this? Do the sides of your ramps rest against the ground when you attach them to the lift?

If I adjust the cables to lower the front of the lift, then it will no longer be raising level again as I can not lower the far end any more as it is already against the base plate.

Is this okay to have the ramps flex this much? I can already see they have bent a little but I am not sure if this normal or if it will get worse??? I have some scrap 1/2 racedeck tiles that I kept from my install, those are 1/2" tall... so I could put those under the sides of the ramps to support them while in use if this "flex" is not normal...

Please let me know what you guys think!

Thanks again,

Dan

 

[Matt M PA]

I would adjust the cables so that both "cross bars" are on the ground when lowered. Then I would adjust the ladders at each corner for the locks to engage simultaneously.

 

[danieldolin]

I would adjust the cables so that both "cross bars" are on the ground when lowered. Then I would adjust the ladders at each corner for the locks to engage simultaneously.

Isn't it more important for the ladders to be adjusted so that the lift is level when on the locks, and not following the gradual slope of the garage floor? The locks are currently dead level, which is the cause for the difference in the cross bar height.

 

[Matt M PA]

Yes...but the lift is not on the locks when lowered. Locks don't come into play until 18" or so off the floor. Id also say that "dead level" isn't important raised or lowered..most garage floors have a very mild slope towards the door for water to run out. Now if there was a substantial slope...ie, your car rolls when in neutral...there might be a problem.

I'd loosen the cables just enough to get the crossbars on the floor...then adjust up or down all ladders for the locks to engage.

For the record, after setting up and adjusting my lift, I've raised everything from a 30 Model A to my Excursion...and the difference in the time between the locks engaging is slight.

 

[MikeMustang]

How slack are your rear cables when the cross bar is on the ground? You could adjust all 4 cables down a 1/2 inch which would mean your rear cables would have more slack in them than your front ones. Just make sure you don't put enough slack in the rear cables so they come off the pulleys.

 

[danieldolin]

Mike - I only have a little over 1/2 inch of thread showing on the rear nuts, I do not want to loosen these rear cables anymore than they already are, I may actually tighen them a turn of so...

I am going to try to put a 6"x24"x0.5" racedeck tile under the middle of each ramp so that the side supports are resting on the surface even though the front crossbar is a little off the ground and see if that works... not a huge deal as a work around as I only will be using the lift a few times a week during the summer season and strictly as storage for 1/3 or the year.

Matt - The lock ladders are level and the ladder on the highest column is pretty much on the baseplate. I do not want to adjust these up at all as I have minimal clearance above the top car and need all the room I can get up there (only 121" ceiling height) so the only thing left is to adjust the cables. If I lower the front cables, then I would need to do the same with the rear if I want all the locks to engage together so I think the extra tile is my best option for now.

If that does not work, I will play around with the adjustments. Thanks for all of your input.

 

[James E]

On my HD-9, the cables and ladder bars are adjusted so that the lift is level when the rails are up in the air or on the ladder bars. When I lower the lift, the rear crossbaar settles down first, then the front crossbar settles to the floor. So, there is some slack in the rear cables when the lift is on the floor but it's nowhere near enough to allow the cables to jump off of a pulley.

To me, keeping the rails level when there is a car up in the air seems to be the safest and most important thing.

You may find that your cables stretch a bit the more you use the lift and if you're only talking about a half inch at the front with it fully loaded (and you're not comfortable adjusting those two cables any more), then maybe just park a car on the lift for awhile and see if the cables stretch.

I don't think that the cable cutting at Bend-Pak is very scientific. With my lift adjusted just right, I have one cable that is adjusted almost as far as it can be and the three others have plenty of threads left. I was super careful about installing the cables in the right positions, so it isn't anything I did.

 

[Murphy4570]

Just use an adjustable or a channel-lock. A deep-well 1 1/16 socket would be awfully expensive--assuming you could even find one.

bwahahaha.

Common as hell size, in both 1/2" and 3/4" drive. You can get them for much less than "awfully expensive". Looks like $4-12 is the going average for cheap ones.

https://www.google.com/search?q=1+1...MKu20AHbr4HWCQ&ved=0CNABEK0E&biw=1600&bih=729

 

[danieldolin]

On my HD-9, the cables and ladder bars are adjusted so that the lift is level when the rails are up in the air or on the ladder bars. When I lower the lift, the rear crossbaar settles down first, then the front crossbar settles to the floor. So, there is some slack in the rear cables when the lift is on the floor but it's nowhere near enough to allow the cables to jump off of a pulley.

To me, keeping the rails level when there is a car up in the air seems to be the safest and most important thing.

Thanks James, I will try to adjust mine like this this weekend... I just was not sure if it was okay for the cross bar to hit the ground and then keep lowering more to get the other bar down. I thought maybe the lift should stop lowering just before it actually rests on the baseplate. But if it is okay to have the cross bar sit on the baseplate and then the front bar down as well, I will try to adjust mine like that as well and see what happens...

Just to confirm... 1/4" of thread showing on the cable adjustment screw is the min for safe operation correct?

Thanks!

 

[James E]

bwahahaha. Common as hell size, in both 1/2" and 3/4" drive. You can get them for much less than "awfully expensive". Looks like $4-12 is the going average for cheap ones.

I can find anything online if I want to pay shipping and wait two weeks. Go to your local Sears or hardware store and try to find a deepwell socket in a size over an inch--good luck. Then you may as well throw it away 'cause if you're middle aged and you've never needed one, you probably aren't ever going to use it again. Channel-locks are perfectly adequate for the job we're talking about.

Thanks James, I will try to adjust mine like this this weekend... I just was not sure if it was okay for the cross bar to hit the ground and then keep lowering more to get the other bar down. I thought maybe the lift should stop lowering just before it actually rests on the baseplate. But if it is okay to have the cross bar sit on the baseplate and then the front bar down as well, I will try to adjust mine like that as well and see what happens...

The instructions say that you shouldn't leave the lift raised for long periods of time without it being on a safety lock position, so I would assume that it either needs to be up and locked or down on the floor/baseplates if you're going to leave it alone for awhile--especially if it's got a car on it.

Just to confirm... 1/4" of thread showing on the cable adjustment screw is the min for safe operation correct?

Sorry, I don't remember the measurement but IIRC, the instructions have it listed.

 

[danieldolin]

The instructions say that you shouldn't leave the lift raised for long periods of time without it being on a safety lock position, so I would assume that it either needs to be up and locked or down on the floor/baseplates if you're going to leave it alone for awhile--especially if it's got a car on it.

This makes sense... Thanks

 

[danieldolin]

Just to confirm... 1/4" of thread showing on the cable adjustment screw is the min for safe operation correct?


Sorry, I don't remember the measurement but IIRC, the instructions have it listed.

All the instructions say is to have 1" when you are installing, then it says to adjust as necessary but does not give a "minimum" that you can have for safe op of the lift.

There was another post here of a member having a problem with his lift going all the way down and it was indicated that BP told him to lower each cable until only 1/4" thread was showing... so I assume this is okay, but just wanted someone else to confirm.

how much thread does everyone have showing on thier adjustment cables?

 

[AndysMBgarage]

I'm still hung up on the fact your HD9-ST came with alloy ramps...........!

 

[danieldolin]

I'm still hung up on the fact your HD9-ST came with alloy ramps...........!

I ordered the alloy ramps as an upgrade... I knew I would be taking them on and off each use and did not want 100 lbs worth of ramps to lug around the garage and not have to mess the the pins that hold the standard ramps on each time... Also, it was only $200 to upgrade from the standard ramps with the lift purchase.

Got the lift all adjusted yesterday and the ramps now sit on the ground. I am a happy customer now.

 

[Lotusowner]

On my HD-9, the cables and ladder bars are adjusted so that the lift is level when the rails are up in the air or on the ladder bars. When I lower the lift, the rear crossbaar settles down first, then the front crossbar settles to the floor. So, there is some slack in the rear cables when the lift is on the floor but it's nowhere near enough to allow the cables to jump off of a pulley.

To me, keeping the rails level when there is a car up in the air seems to be the safest and most important thing.

You may find that your cables stretch a bit the more you use the lift and if you're only talking about a half inch at the front with it fully loaded (and you're not comfortable adjusting those two cables any more), then maybe just park a car on the lift for awhile and see if the cables stretch.

I don't think that the cable cutting at Bend-Pak is very scientific. With my lift adjusted just right, I have one cable that is adjusted almost as far as it can be and the three others have plenty of threads left. I was super careful about installing the cables in the right positions, so it isn't anything I did.

James E,
Interesting observation about your cables not being cut too accurately. I just got an HD-7W and one of my cables is adjusted at the very limit, i.e.. the cable is too long in relation to the others (or the shortest one is too short). I'm a little worried that with cable stretch I may not be able to sync the lift later but I guess I have a year of warranty to see what happens and its good now so I'm leaving it alone.