Bendpak Lift Power Cord Question

[Remford]

An installer assembled a third BendPak HD-9 lift at my home and seems to have pulled a real *****. My ceilings are 12' tall. Lifts 1 & 2 plug directly into ceiling outlets overhead but Lift 3's power cord is about 2' too short. I suspect the culprit to be a careless installer who, for reasons unknown, cut the power cable too short during installation.

Has anybody replaced an entire power cord on an HD-9 Series lift? I have the 110V version. The cord seems to be 14AWG and is insulated like crazy (2.08mm) if I'm not mistaken. 110V at 15A should be no problem for any commonly-available replacement to handle.

I'd be grateful for any assistance - or for a chance to buy an original 110V cord from anybody who ultimately hard-wired a lift upon installation.

Many thanks!

 

[Z2V]

Either 12awg or 14awg will work.
If installer dropped the ball call him back to fix it.
Three lifts in your garage, post some pics

 

[James E]

Remford, I have replaced the cord on my HD9. When I set up my lift, I bought the casters and had in my head that I would occasionally move the lift outside or into another bay of the garage (I have done that exactly one time in the last several years, BTW). As a result, I didn't hardwire the lift (mine uses 240V). After checking with BendPak, I purchased a heavy insulated wire and installed it on the motor, with a plug so I could plug/unplug the lift and move it whenever I choose.

Am I correct in assuming that you want to do something similar? If so, I can check at home this weekend and then give you the specs on the wire. Replacing the wire is no more difficult than replacing the power feed for any appliance. There is a junction box on the motor, you take off the old wire and add the new, then put the cover back on. Easy-peasy.

 

[SILVERPLATE]

I would like to see some photos also!

 

[Remford]

Here's one view of one of the garages. Very much a work in progress.

‪View media item 68559‬

 

[matt_i]

I would use SO-cord made by Carol. Could be a J- junior cord too for <300vac. Probably an upgrade over what you originally had.

 

[excavator]

You can also add a switch like this one I installed near the motor and make the slack up at that point. This is emergency cut off switch incase the lift button ever got stuck on up lift

 

[ovilla]

Where did you get that Switch and is it rated for 220v?

 

[pattenp]

Where did you get that Switch and is it rated for 220v?

Voltage is not the only rating it needs to have. Amperage and HP rating is also important.

This one is rated current: 2 HP/35 Amp at 120-Volt; 3 HP/20 Amp at 230-Volt
http://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTEC...gclid=CIbtpqjhs9ICFYWKswodgNQBmw&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[excavator]

here are the specs and wire diagram. I have mine on 220
you can also use lock on it to prevent kids from lifting it
got mine on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4151-220-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17FRS


https://d27ewrs9ow50op.cloudfront.net/manuals/d4151_m.pdf

 

[Want2race]

Grizzly has those switches. Also think they have a magnetic option as well that can be surface mounted.

As for the wire- I replaced mine with the flexible insulated 14ga from Home Depot. Lift runs like a champ now! I think the factory 16ga was too small or the installer did a piss poor job when he added it.