Bendpak XPR-10A...Up and running!
- Thread starter RandyL
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Low N Slow
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- Dec 19, 2013
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I'll get a picture tonight when I get home from work.
ScoobyRacer
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- Mar 17, 2015
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I wish I had found this post 3 days ago. I am so frustrated with the BendPak installation directions. They are beyond awful. I, like a few other people here mounted my power side on the left, because the manual specifically says you can choose which side the power side is. I have a wall to contend with so it made sense to put it on the left.
My problem is that the release lock cable has such a diagonal skew in it now that it is impossible to get the far side lock to release (even with my entire weight on the release lever).
I called BendPak and they told me I installed it incorrectly. I asked them where in the manual that something that important was specified. They told me I was supposed to infer this from one of the pictures (the only one indicating the approach comes after the posts are installed in the steps). I asked them how I could trust the pictures when my electrician had to reverse engineer all the motor wiring as the diagrams were not at all correct for what was in the lift (different contactor, added capacitors, and different terminal numbers).
Now something that I have not seen mentioned yet (and I should start a new post) since this is in my garage I went with the narrow configuration, why wouldn't you to conserve some space and keep the floor plan more open. Well something else that should have been on page 1 is that the narrow configuration is worthless. It is not possible to lift my car (Subaru) with the narrow configuration, the arms won't reach the lift points. So add to my fun list of things to do, now I get to cut off the bolts and move to the wide configuration as well as pull the other post so the cables will route properly and have my electrician come back out to move all the wiring.
BENDPAK why are your directions SO HORRIBLE. This is exactly what I wanted to avoid, why I bought a USA made lift, why I paid a PREMIUM price for a lift and not some cheap Chinese lift. I even contacted a local professional installer and he had no idea the asymmetric lift had to be installed with the power side on the right.
An install that should have taken 5 hours will now likely take me 4 days because of the deplorable documentation. And honestly they could have engineered it to go both ways by making those rollers centered on the post.
An update for the manual should state:
1. Power side needs to be on the right
2. Use the wide configuration.
My problem is that the release lock cable has such a diagonal skew in it now that it is impossible to get the far side lock to release (even with my entire weight on the release lever).
I called BendPak and they told me I installed it incorrectly. I asked them where in the manual that something that important was specified. They told me I was supposed to infer this from one of the pictures (the only one indicating the approach comes after the posts are installed in the steps). I asked them how I could trust the pictures when my electrician had to reverse engineer all the motor wiring as the diagrams were not at all correct for what was in the lift (different contactor, added capacitors, and different terminal numbers).
Now something that I have not seen mentioned yet (and I should start a new post) since this is in my garage I went with the narrow configuration, why wouldn't you to conserve some space and keep the floor plan more open. Well something else that should have been on page 1 is that the narrow configuration is worthless. It is not possible to lift my car (Subaru) with the narrow configuration, the arms won't reach the lift points. So add to my fun list of things to do, now I get to cut off the bolts and move to the wide configuration as well as pull the other post so the cables will route properly and have my electrician come back out to move all the wiring.
BENDPAK why are your directions SO HORRIBLE. This is exactly what I wanted to avoid, why I bought a USA made lift, why I paid a PREMIUM price for a lift and not some cheap Chinese lift. I even contacted a local professional installer and he had no idea the asymmetric lift had to be installed with the power side on the right.
An install that should have taken 5 hours will now likely take me 4 days because of the deplorable documentation. And honestly they could have engineered it to go both ways by making those rollers centered on the post.
An update for the manual should state:
1. Power side needs to be on the right
2. Use the wide configuration.
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Iroc-Z
Well-known member
Looking at your narrow configuration you need to move the car over to the left and pull it further forward to get it on the lift. Yes this will make it some what of a pain to get in and out but sometimes that is how it is. I have worked with many lifts in my life and I can state there is no such thing as "The Perfect Lift" All have there good points and bad points. Honestly to save some agony down the road I would really consider going with the wide configuration. You loose inches but will be less frustrated.
killahog
Well-known member
Scooby, I was also very frustrated after I discovered the problem with the crossed safety lock cable issue. I called bendpak and they said essentially the same thing I had to remove the posts and switch them around so the power side is on the drivers side of the vehicle while you approach it. Well I was not about to take those things back out after bolting them down so I redirected the small cable to go straight up the column and out of the top plate and then over. I used the existing bolt hole pattern on the top plate to attach a 1/4 plate to . I had to drill one hole in the top plate to allow the cable to come thru and of course fabricate a bracket to hold the cheap Chinese sheave the safety cable runs on. Now the cable is verticle inside the column, and does not get caught by for lack of the proper name. The lifting mechanism . In your case if you do have to take your lift back apart you could reposition the cable sheaves inside the column after you remove the top cross support.
ScoobyRacer
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- Mar 17, 2015
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I'll try this out tonight and post pictures ... I think my problem is the lift points on my car are the pinch welds on the outside of the frame and the arms end up being too long in the narrow config.
I went with the narrow config to have more room for walking, the normal traffic flow in the garage (3 car) is between the bay with the lift and the next one over.
ScoobyRacer
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- Mar 17, 2015
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@killahog - I am worried if anything went wrong and I had modified the lift bendpak would tell me to take a hike and not warranty anything. Granted nothing should ever go wrong with the posts or top bar, those things would probably survive the end of the world.
killahog
Well-known member
I thought about that before I done the modification but I was at the point where I didn't care about any warranty I just wanted to complete the install. The only issue I have now is the arms are not perfectly level. The off power side is 3/8 lower than the power side. But that is unrelated to the cable or power assembly routing.
classic boost
Well-known member
i don't know who told you bendpak was made in the usa. you bought a chinese lift.
ScoobyRacer
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In the narrow configuration, even pulled up as far as i can it still doesn't work, the arms would rip off my side skirts before the pads touch the pinch welds. This also takes away most of my usable work space in front of the car (I had planned to use the asymmetric normally, but be able to pull fully forward if I wanted to park a car under).
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19992
I guess the joke is on me, I trusted something they stated.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19992
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ScoobyRacer
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It will be tight, which is why I was excited for the narrow config, but I'll make it work. There is another bay not pictured, so I can pull the black car a few inches further away.
Iroc-Z
Well-known member
ScoobyRacer
You need a set of these. They will solve your problem.
http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/accessories/screw-lift-pads.aspx
The Neusbaum lifts I use to use had a screw point integrated into the arms but these do the same thing. Get the arms under screw the pads up to the pinch rail. Done deal.
You need a set of these. They will solve your problem.
http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/accessories/screw-lift-pads.aspx
The Neusbaum lifts I use to use had a screw point integrated into the arms but these do the same thing. Get the arms under screw the pads up to the pinch rail. Done deal.
Iroc-Z
Well-known member
Maybe scratch that. It looks like thy only fit low pro arms. I am sure you could make them fit though.
Iroc-Z
Well-known member
ScoobyRacer
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- Mar 17, 2015
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I have the low profile arms already ... I'll be moving to the wide configuration this weekend, wish me luck.
Iroc-Z
Well-known member
Then I would for sure get the adjustable screw pads. That will save you allot of headache.
killahog
Well-known member
Scooby How are things going with the Lift ?
rburke65
Well-known member
There sure seems to be a lot of problems with these "American Made" lifts.......
ScoobyRacer
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- Mar 17, 2015
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We managed to get the posts moved, bolts cut, and re-drilled. Also re-ran all the cables. I am waiting for my electrician to hook everything back up. I'll get some more pictures posted soon. I also found a hydraulic line that may be damaged so I am going to preemptively replace it.
The locks release works "better" now with the cables straight, but it took a lot of lube for them to start working even in the proper configuration. I can only hope that they break in with some use and get easier, it still takes quite a bit of effort to get them to release.
I don't feel entirely happy with the 'button ends' of the cables and how they just sit on the top of the carriage. I would have liked there to be a tab or something so friction was not the only thing holding it on. Next to impossible to get a picture of but I will try on that as well.
It seems like it would be valuable to make a video review of all the issues I ran into once I have it up and running.
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ScoobyRacer
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Ok, I wanted to post some pictures about how the cable ends fasten onto the inside of the arms. It is impossible to see how this occurs, as you are fishing your arm down about 4' into the arm to get the lug to slip over the post that holds it. While doing this it didn't feel very secure, so I got out my GoPro, a flashlight and GoPole to see what was really going on in there. All that holds the cables is friction on two sides, there is no lip that would prevent it from possibly slipping off. It sure seems like it would have been trivial to make this much more secure.
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Iroc-Z
Well-known member
Bendpak is not american made nor do I think they claim to be.
I have the same issues described with the safety cable crossing like that. Anyone have any experience leaving it like that long term? The power unit is on the driver side and the top plate mounted with the micro switch housing on the power side and they still are crossed. The latches work, but are difficult to push. I started a new thread on the difficulty of pushing them and was told it was normal.
Also how did everyone wire this up. the small gauge wire that comes with the lift has 4 wires, but I'm thinking I only need 2 of them?
Also how did everyone wire this up. the small gauge wire that comes with the lift has 4 wires, but I'm thinking I only need 2 of them?
I guess I need to bite the bullet and do it. I'll need to take the equalizer cable out and the hydraulic lines.HAP
Well-known member
Also how did everyone wire this up. the small gauge wire that comes with the lift has 4 wires, but I'm thinking I only need 2 of them?[/QUOTE]
I used all 4 wires by pairing them...
R,
HAP
I used all 4 wires by pairing them...
R,
HAP
This thread explains is pretty well:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113591
I do not understand why they give you the 4 wire, when 2 is only needed.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113591
I do not understand why they give you the 4 wire, when 2 is only needed.
HAP
Well-known member
BTW, the screw pads work just fine with the standard arms. If your arms are uneven due to the floor, you will want them anyway to keep your car level.
R,
HAP
ScoobyRacer... this is how my safety lock cable will be routed if I do not change my post positions. I want the power unit on the driver side. I realize this is an old thread but my concern exactly. Does it work with the angle like that?