BenPak HD-9XW ordered.

[Thomarann]

.... That is the shipping company, and being that it was going to Alaska, which means that it had to travel through another counrty... CANADA.... possibly Canadian Customs pulled the leg out to check the product for possible contraband.....

Everytime I receive something from the US that Canada Customs has opened, it has been repackaged in the same way (or better) than it was originally. I really doubt they would have not even reboxed a major piece like that.

Besides, anytime Canada Customs open anything they put a huge bright yellow sticker saying "Inspected by Canada Customs" on it so people don't refuse packages that have been opened in transit (if they are worred about a piece or two being stolen).

Marc

 

[tsagg]

You will need to have air to retract the main air locks. The secondary (slack locks) are held back during lowering operations in which the cable has tension still in place untill the cabel slacks and therefore giving a secondary safety catch.

I simply used my hose reel to connect the air to the spring loaded push button provided by BP.

What type of compressor do you use? Is it something that you need to have constantly hooked up to the lift? Does it constantly kick on/off ? With the slack lock as a back-up, do you NEED to use the air lock?

Just seems like not all home garages where this lift would go into would have air....

 

[ovilla]

The primary safety locks (the only ones which you can operate on the lift) only need about 25-30 PSI of air so even a really small air compressor will do. Consequently, the air is solely to disengage the primary locks. The locks automatically engage at each locking positioin as you raise the lift (you have no control over this and can't disengage this safety feature). The secondary safety locks are spring loaded and only engage if/when the cable at a given column has slack in the line. Keep in mind that you only need air to be hooked up when lowering your lift. The rest of the time, you can leave it hooked up or connected to your other tools (i.e. impact gun, sprayer, etc.). You'll never need air to raise your lift, unless you went too high and now need to lower your ramps to the next lower locking position.

If you've ever seen any other lift's locking mechanism, you'll qickly appreciate BendPak's simplicity approach towards their locks. You'll never have to worry about rods getting bent and only certain columns engaging (or not). Plus, you can disengage all of the locks from one central spot by holding down the air button. It really doesn't get much easier than that.

Compressors - I have a 26 gal Sears Craftsmans dual stage professional series unit. This is way overkill for the lift but that's what I already had at home. I've also operated my lift with my neighbor's little pancake compressor (that he got as a package deal when he bought a finish nailer) and it operated the lift just fine. Check craigslist and you'll find a ton of compressors for sale.

Bottom Line - Don't let the need for air scare you away. A lot of folks worry about this but look at it this way. Buying an air compressor will open up a whole new world to you and will make working on cars a lot more enjoyable. Once you've used an impact gun on lug nuts and/or to bust off old corroded nuts/bolts, you'll wonder why you didn't get one years ago.

 

[akdiesel]

The air is only needed to lower the runways. When the runways are up and locked into place you can then remove the air. You can even raise the lift with out air if you want and still lower it to the desired lock location, but you will need to have air to release the air locks to lower it again.
I only have a 25 gallon 150 psi air compressor and the air requirements for the lift is approx 60-80 psi.
The locks have a fail safe system in them so if air is too low or no air at all the locks will/should ingage.

 

[akdiesel]

ovilla,
You beat me to the punch.
I was also thinking of adding a flagging system on each corner to indicate when the air locks are locked and open. The need to check the locks manually is still needed but this wuold let you know if one of the locks was stuck or the lift was not raised enough to disengage the locks when lowering to reduce the posibility of too much slack.

 

[akdiesel]

tsagg,
I originally thought the lift was going to be intimidating due to the cable runs and the size but once you get it with the help of others on here that have simplified the set up it will be easy.
I had this lift operational in about 10 hours total time from unloading the trailer to running with 25% of that being help from my wife and another 20% of too much slack in the cable.

 

[tsagg]

Got to be honest, this seems very inconvenient to have to hook up air hose, fire up a pancake compressor, get it reved up, and use it to lower the lift each time.

What are the chief benefits of this type of system vs. the locking mechanisms of the competitors lifts that make this inconvenience worthwhile to deal with????

Bottom line is that safety is key, but have to imagine the mechanisms of other ALI/ETL certified lifts are as capable without using air...

 

[akdiesel]

I can not speak for the compatition lifts but it was inconvieniant to ******** a seat belt at first and now look at it.

 

[Piper]

I don't mean to sound stupid here but if you're considering a 4 post lift wouldn't you also want to equip your shop with compressed air? I know that there are some pretty nice electrical and battery operated impact wrenches etc but I really think if you're in the category of having a 4 post (working not storage) lift it's simply natural that you'd have, or soon be getting a compressor. I couldn't work without my air tools..

Piper

 

[shocksystems]

Got to be honest, this seems very inconvenient to have to hook up air hose, fire up a pancake compressor, get it reved up, and use it to lower the lift each time.

What are the chief benefits of this type of system vs. the locking mechanisms of the competitors lifts that make this inconvenience worthwhile to deal with????

Bottom line is that safety is key, but have to imagine the mechanisms of other ALI/ETL certified lifts are as capable without using air...

From my experience the need for a compressor to release the safeties has been no trouble. It is not something I even think about. Of course I have a compressor powered up all the time in the garage. I just pull the air line over and plug it in.

Like the others said, having a compressor in your garage is so useful. Even if just a pancake compressor. I would not let that dictate what lift you purchase, particularly when you consider how well the safeties work and how convenient they are (just press one button).

Cheers!

Jim

 

[tsagg]

I don't mean to sound stupid here but if you're considering a 4 post lift wouldn't you also want to equip your shop with compressed air? I know that there are some pretty nice electrical and battery operated impact wrenches etc but I really think if you're in the category of having a 4 post (working not storage) lift it's simply natural that you'd have, or soon be getting a compressor. I couldn't work without my air tools..

Piper

This WOULD be for storage most of the time. my garage is more show than work hence no real need for air tools. I borrow a compressor when I need it. But I guess I'll be buying one if I decide to go with BendPak.

 

[tsagg]

Does the Revolution lift by Rotary require air? The website and literature is vague and not clear on this subject. The BendPak literature wasn't too clear on the subject either until you looked at the installation FAQ.

If anyone knows about the Revolution lifts and their need for air or not, please let me know.

 

[tsagg]

Does the Revolution lift by Rotary require air? The website and literature is vague and not clear on this subject. The BendPak literature wasn't too clear on the subject either until you looked at the installation FAQ.

If anyone knows about the Revolution lifts and their need for air or not, please let me know.

Does anyone know the answer to the question regarding the Revolution lifts???

 

[ovilla]

Hooking up the air is no different than connecting my 220 cord to the wall. I want to make sure my kids (or anyone else) can't operate the lift so these are two things I always connect and then disconnect when I'm done. It probably takes a whole 15 seconds to connect the air, turn on the compressor, and then plug in the 220. By the time I get my tools for the job at hand (or just my car keys), my air compressor already has enough air to lower the lift.

tsagg - Manual locks, which are used on other lifts, are dependent on really long rods to connect the locks from two columns to one lock. Hence, you normally have to lock/unlock two (or four) levers. This takes a lot longer than just hitting one air release button on the lift. Picture this scenario. You're raising your car and then decide that it's too high and you want to lower it again. Would you rather just hit one button, on the same one column you're already positioned at or do you want to have to walk over to another column to unlock the locks? With air locks in place, you can raise/lower, and unlock all of your locks while still standing in the same one spot. It's really like having power door locks on your remote control versus having to unlock each door with a key. Plus, you'll never have to worry about one of those long rods getting bent on you and not fully unlocking the locks on the other column. With the BendPak air locks, you'll hear all of them clank open as soon as you hit the air button. Think of it as yet another safety factor since most people would have no clue on how to unlock the locks.

 

[pattenp]

Does anyone know the answer to the question regarding the Revolution lifts???

Looking at the video and online info it looks like the locking is not air actuated. One picture shows a single point lock release that looks alot like a straight mechinical release. The reason I say this is because of the length of the handle for unlocking the latches is long to have mechanical leverage to pull the locks back. I'm not saying this is a fact but just my observation.

 

[go4dave]

I love my BENDPAK lift,,,,, i was just using it last night,,, and i thought,,, this is SOoooooo COOL.....

You'll love it,,,,,,, and the guys at BENDPAK,, ,, are awesome.... they are there to help,, and support.
I wish more companies were like them.

 

[jeff's classics]

I don't mean to sound stupid here but if you're considering a 4 post lift wouldn't you also want to equip your shop with compressed air? I know that there are some pretty nice electrical and battery operated impact wrenches etc but I really think if you're in the category of having a 4 post (working not storage) lift it's simply natural that you'd have, or soon be getting a compressor. I couldn't work without my air tools..

Piper

I've been thinking the exact same thing as I've read this thread....I bought my compressor about 10 years ago, just now getting around to the lift!
Jeff

 

[lh4x4]

I have the same model in use for 3.5 years now. No issue ever. I have only had to adjust the cables once.

 

[HIRISC]

I have an HD-9 and find the extra safety and convenience of the air-lock system to be a big plus.

I bought a $119 1hp, 3 gallon Craftsman for air-lock duty.. it builds enough pressure in 30 seconds to 'open' the locks. I have a 32 gallon main compressor, but there is no sense waiting for that to fill up.

Unless you're lowering your lift dozens of times a day at home, it's no big deal at all and the safety/convenience far outweigh the 'cost' or 'hassle' of the compressor.

My $.02

You can see the little compressor in the lower right side of this pic:

 

[Question]

I have the same set up, BenPak, 69 Camaro but a 62 Corvette... and a small portable air compressor. I can get a number of "open locks" from my tire pig that I don't even have to fire up the compressor.

 

[go4dave]

Those are beautiful set-ups. I wish i had the auto inventory you guys have. I do have 1 suggestion. Raise the garage door. Get rid of the center door opener, use a Liftmaster Direct drive unit (attaches to the spring shaft) then you can raise the garage door up a FOOT or more. Turns that wasted space above the door, to working lift space.

 

[HIRISC]

The garage opener is in the center and isn't the limiting factor of how high I can raise the cars in my particular situation.. The ceiling height is.

The only thing raising the door would do for me is allow me about 8" more 'under-car' room than I have with it open.

I'm going to see how it goes this upcoming season - if having the door shut is annoying to me, I'll likely raise the door and install a side-lift like you've posted.

Thanks for the great pics!

 

[n1gzd]

I am ordering one in early March (9XW). I understand that this only comes with steel ramps (aluminum not an option). I also noticed that they suggest that you leave the ramps on when you raise the lift. I don't like this idea because it is in the way (you might hit your head on it or the car below might get damaged). What I want to do is remove the ramps after the car is on it and install a set of the small stops (like are installed at the other end to keep the car rolling off). I am thinking of building my own diamond plate aluminum ramps to use instead of the stock steel ones (lighter weight). and some stops that can be installed after the ramp is removed. Has anyone else done this. I noticed that some other brands of lifts come with aluminum ramps but not Bend Pak. Since I don't have my lift yet I cannot copy the steel ramps. I do have a friend with one and perhaps he can let me create a pattern from his (I wanted to practice some welding).
Rebecca

 

[Junkman]

The aluminum ramps are an option, and you can order them at the same time as you order the lift. The last time that I checked, they didn't have a delete option where you could delete the steel ramps and substitute the aluminum ramps. If you don't want the steel ramps, I would consider buying them from you. If you want to make stops for when the ramps are off the lift, they would be very easy to copy from the originals supplied with the lift. Basically, they are a piece of flat steel that has a piece of 3/8" steet pipe welded to it.

 

[ovilla]

Rebecca, the ramps can either stay perfectly horizontal (aligned with your ramps) or they can naturally pivot down, as the ramp is being raised. There's a special metal piece that goes under the ramps and prevents them from folding down, if you so choose to install it. That's what I have in place and is much easier than having to put the ramps on/off each time. Also, the steel approach ramps have the same surface prep as the long ramps and are realy grippy. I think they add metal shavings on to them before they're powder coated. I'm able to drive cars on to the ramps straight in from rain/snow without any issues.

 

[mad57]

i went and looked at a direct pak lift the other day it was a year old and like new $1200 bucks pretty much a no name but seemed to work well, but i passed on it i figured it might be un safe in the long run, not to mention when i just touched the side poles the whole thing just shook about 3 inches thats scary, now this is a storage lift not really a working lift, are the benpaks alot more ridged bolted down or not? i have a 2 post snap on 9000lbs lift but am looking for a versitle storage lift and also work lift.thans mike.

 

[n1gzd]

What type of compressor do you use? Is it something that you need to have constantly hooked up to the lift? Does it constantly kick on/off ? With the slack lock as a back-up, do you NEED to use the air lock?

Just seems like not all home garages where this lift would go into would have air....

I have a friend with one and he just has a portable air tank. He says that he can go months without topping it off (actually, I think that he said a year). Not much air gets used to unlock it.
Rebecca

 

[HIRISC]

i went and looked at a direct pak lift the other day it was a year old and like new $1200 bucks pretty much a no name but seemed to work well, but i passed on it i figured it might be un safe in the long run, not to mention when i just touched the side poles the whole thing just shook about 3 inches thats scary, now this is a storage lift not really a working lift, are the benpaks alot more ridged bolted down or not?....thans mike.

I have an HD-9 (BendPak) - it's not bolted down - it moves when you push on it (with or without a car/s on it) - completely safe

 

[mad57]

thanks! i should have bought that cheapie than

 

[Junkman]

i went and looked at a direct pak lift the other day it was a year old and like new $1200 bucks pretty much a no name but seemed to work well, but i passed on it i figured it might be un safe in the long run, not to mention when i just touched the side poles the whole thing just shook about 3 inches thats scary, now this is a storage lift not really a working lift, are the benpaks alot more ridged bolted down or not? i have a 2 post snap on 9000lbs lift but am looking for a versitle storage lift and also work lift.thans mike.

Any four post lift will have some wobble to them if they are not bolted down to the floor. More when unloaded than when loaded. If you consider the amount of leverage that you have when you push on the post 5 feet from the floor, it only makes sense. If the lift is loaded with a heavy car, it will take more effort to get it to sway. I have no concerns about being under my lift with the car on it, if the safety locks are engaged. If the locks are not engaged, then I don't go under there. I always set the safety locks when lifting a car. NO EXCEPTIONS... If you have no reason to move the lift, then you have no reason not to bolt it securely to the floor. It isn't necessary, but if it gives you that extra amount of security, then bolt it to the floor. If you use insert type of anchors, you can unbolt it quickly and not have anything sticking up. This is what I intend to do once I have mine exactly where I want it. Until then, I am still experimenting with where it will be best located.

 

[HIRISC]

thanks! i should have bought that cheapie than

Naw, you'll appreciate the extras you get with the BP.

 

[akdiesel]

As mentioned the more weight on the lift the more solid it is. I have approx 2500 lbs sitting on the lift as storage for a small car and some other items. If you push on one of the post it will move slightly, but with the 7400 lb truck it will not budge.
I also remove my ramps when the lift is up. It makes room for manuevering the portable stairs and other tall items easier. It is not hard to remove them and with the handy little plastic wheels on the ramps it makes it easy to place them under the truck that is under the lift.
One thing I think would be nice that BendPak did would be to make a storage rack under the ramp (the one that does not house the cables). Lot of spare room under there for the ramps. They might have to just narrow the ramps slightly.

 

[KevDawg]

Hey HIRISC,

Is that a real Yenko?

What a dream it would be to have that car.
You're a lucky man...

 

[HIRISC]

Hey HIRISC,

Is that a real Yenko?

What a dream it would be to have that car.
You're a lucky man...

Hey KevDawg,

Thanks - no, just a humble replica... Real one is out of my $$, but I love it (and drive it all over) anyway. Mine has quite a bit more power than a real one

 

[mad57]

Just wondered why most of you here didnt buy the 12,000 lbs lift for just $10 bucks more compared to the 9000 lbs lift and it has the anti sway slide blocks in it as well, compared to the hd-9xw. please let me know because im really considering one of these two thanks, mike.







BendPak HD-9XW Four Post Lift, Light-Duty, 9,000 Pound Capacity ( i ) BendPak HD-12SS Medium-Duty, 12,000 Pound Capacity ( i )
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The HD-9XW is your vehicle storage and service solution and the ultimate tool for the DIY’er. Available with casters, drip-trays, jack platform and more.


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[akdiesel]

Looking at the choices the HD9 series had the rise I needed, where the HD12 series did not lift it high enough to park under. Plus I don't have a 12,000 lb vehicle that I need to lift.
The full size crew cab dually pickups are still under the 9000 lb capacity.