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Best allen (hex) key set

Silver09

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Oct 4, 2017
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I`ve been trying to choose the best allen key set (Metric and Standard). So far I have found this options according to the best rating on Amazon:

Ares 9pc Metric Long arm ball end hex key wrench set. Chrome finish with blue coating.
Part number #70165
https://www.amazon.com/Visibility-Anti-Slip-Coating-Convenient-Included/dp/B06X93DJ4T

Bondhus Set of 15 ball driver L-wrench with BriteGuard finish.
Part number #17095
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-17095-Balldriver-L-wrenches-BriteGuard/dp/B000E7XJYS

I`m towards the Ares brand because it has a 5 star review in Amazon and a nice coating but haven`t seen posts or youtube videos of their quality unlike Bondhus that is a more recognizable brand.

71cTQX-bPGL._SL1500_.jpg


Have any of you tried the Ares brand tools? There is not much information on the web about them only the 5⋆ review on Amazon by 17 customers.

Best regards.
 
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franzdom

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The best and only Allen keys are made by Allen. No seriously.
The best hex keys are probably hex plus by Wera. I like their T handle ones and for L keys I like PB Swiss for metric and Snap-On for SAE.
 

matt stott

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PB Swiss for my taste. Been using them in industrial environments for a couple of decades now- they are top notch.

But- it is really hard to beat Bondhus for value. They make a VERY nice wrench set for the money.

I have the Wera color hex wrench set, too. The plastic sleeves on these wrenches seem to get in the way too often. But that may just be me, otherwise the wrenches are great (I could just cut the color sleeves off!)

Matt

(not my photo- I just really want a set of these new knurled PB wrenches)
 

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Dave455

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Best are probably PB Swiss. Tried most and havn't found anything that comes close. They're the best made, best finished and longest lasting!

I accept they are expensive. More so if you live in the U.S. (I'm in the U.K) so I'd probably go Bondhus. They're very good for a lot less money.

A 'nice coating' does not, in any way, enhance a hex key. With any serious use it will chip off and look shite!

Throughout four decades of tool buying, I have never heard of Ares tools. I suppose it's feasible that they have come out of nowhere and make a product better than Bondhus, Eklind, PB Swiss .... but I doubt it!
 

Sloper0204

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I buy Bondhus in bulk, high enough quality for a low enough price that they aren't worth a second thought.
 

Matt Matt

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I have pretty much stayed with ALLEN over 1/2".

But for metric and imperial sets, "victory" Hex Keyes from princess auto, I've never bought another in 18 years. I had three of them that I broke the balls on, they just exchange them for me. They are made of S2 and I only purchased the long series. And as a T & D maker socket head cap screws are all I use, and I use a pipe on them. Most T & D makers that I have worked with have followed suit.

I have two peanut butter jars filled with Hex Keyes that are broken or twisted, before I found this set 18 years ago.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/product-comparison
 

manwithtools

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I like the Whia ErgoStar, the way they rotate out from the holder so they are easy to remove and store is an added bonus. Extra length is handy and nickle plating doesn't rust.

$
 

Rich+

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I sprung for the Bondhus gold and silver set, so I can very rapidly identify which is metric and which is english.

It sounds like any of the vendors you are looking at will do fine. I am particular about my hex keys, as I have stripped a bolt with a cheap set, then recovered that bolt with a Bondhus.
 

Dingleburry

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I vote pb swiss as best. I have wiha also, had a stubborn cap screw i thought i plastic deformed the wiha, to my supprise i actually didnt, but wasnt gonna push it any more in case i did bend it. Grabbed my pb swiss bent a bit also, as much as wiha, and all of a sudden the awesome "CRACK" of relief.
 

Aqua-Andy

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If you want the best IMHO PB Swiss take the cake. Bondhus is a very close second and much less expensive.
 

davethorik

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It is unfortunate that PB Swiss tools are so pricy in the USA. $80- $100 is ludicrous money for hex keys, and the SAE sets don't even come with a 3/8 (you can buy it separately, but then there's no spot for it in the holder).

Eklind and Bondhus represent great value. I personally have sae and mm sets of non-ball end Eklind keys that are 11 years old, well worn but still 100% functional. I have Bondhus ball ends in some larger sizes and I like how the faces are milled flat vs the sheared, irregular faces of the Eklind (I just ground the Eklinds flat using a jig on a pedestal grinder).

I'm sure the PB Swiss are nice, I have used their screwdrivers in the past and they are top notch. However that is just too much $ imo. Once again I wish we could get them cheaper in the states.
 

jumbojak

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I have a set of carlyle in fractional that have worked very well. They were purchased after an eklind rounded off a set screw and took it out without issue. Well... there was a mighty crack when it broke free, but both the screw and the key were intact.
 

T45

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I'm sure the PB Swiss are nice, I have used their screwdrivers in the past and they are top notch. However that is just too much $ imo. Once again I wish we could get them cheaper in the states.

The PB swiss are awesome if needed. Try purchasing from europe, the shipping is like $7-8. I got lucky on a set for <$30 from germany once via auction.

Agree that $100/set is just too much capital. If you need good keys, the trick is to buy the less expensive options. Namely, the redacted sets; or the chrome sets; or the ones without the ball end.

The plain-jane hex keys from PB are not that expensive. The "rainbow" sets are very long and with ball-ends and usually the ball-ends are maybe 2x the money of the regular sets.

Good luck either way. :beer:
 
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Silver09

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Thanks for the replies.

I`ll check the Wera and PB Swiss ones before I buy the Bondhus.

What would be the best choice? A stubby ball end or a regular one?
I know the stubby ball end one is for tighter places but do you lose a lot of torque due to the low length?


I`m caught between these two Bondhus choices because of the variety of sizes and nice Briteguard finish:

Bondhus 16737 13 Piece Stubby Ball End Tip Hex Key L-Wrench Set with BriteGuard Finish, Long Arm
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-16737-Stubby-L-Wrench-BriteGuard/dp/B0006O4AGU/ref=pd_sim_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NZYADSSR33HPRQS1SCTF&dpID=41bNHXzPHFL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
61Kn4u4MhPL._SL1200_.jpg


Bondhus 16937 Set of 13 Balldriver L-wrenches with BriteGuard Finish, Long Length, sizes .050-3/8-Inch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7ZQ9E/ref=psdc_553414_t1_B000E7XJYS
31SFkp0P73L.jpg


Have you had any trouble with the Bondhus BriteGuard or GoldGuard finish not allowing to insert the hex key correctly due to not enought tolerance?
 
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T45

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Have you had any trouble with the Bondhus BriteGuard or GoldGuard finish not allowing to insert the hex key correctly due to not enought tolerance?

The silver ones are better IMHO. The gold ones are a matte finish and are meant to be more durable/corrosion resistant. They also feel a bit more sticky when inserting them. The extra friction doesn't really qualify as an improvement over the silver.

Since bondhus are so inexepensive, I would rather have better user-friendliness and just buy a new set when and if they wear out.

That being said, the PB swiss are significantly/notivebly better tools. But the financial ROI needs to make sense. For everyday use, that is not a question someone else can answer for you.

The stubbies are great, but you will run into times when you need to use the L key with the deeper L geometry. The number of times the stubby ONLY will fit is probably smaller than the number of times you wll have access for a deeper recess. Again, this adds more cost as you have to basically buy two sets.

The benefit of the stubby is there is less off-axis torque and this results in a better fastener/tool engagement. Ultimately, less wear on the intenal hex bolts as well. Many times hex keys are used on expensive, hardened, or hard to replace bolts, so keeping them in top-shape is a value-add for the keys.

But if that is a value add to your personal situation is not something another person can really answer out of context. This stuff matters when it matters...but it may not matter to you....Its all application specific.

Ball ends are also useful when needed, but a non-feature or a negative otherwise.

:thumbup:
 
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mowkep

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I've got Eklinds I've used for 20+years. (Ball end and non ball end, longs and shorts) I also have a couple sets of the Bondus gorilla grips. Both great. The plastic holder for the gorilla grips wore out between the keys and they replaced without a hitch. Both good affordable choices
 

cliftonbros89

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I have Bondhus gold both metric and sae. I've been very satisfied with them. Better than my china made Craftsmans. Better than my Allen brand too.

I intend to get a short set of gold Bondhus as well. I did highly consider a set of Wera. I've read a lot of good things about them here. Just haven't done it yet. I've been satisfied enough with my Wera screwdrivers that I thought I may give their hex keys a chance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

dr_clyde

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I have Bondhus, Eklind, Unbrako, Snap-on and Allen. Of them, Unbrako is the best, but they are hard to find. I do really like my Bondhus ones too.

I also just bought some extremely nice Wiha T-handles, and I would for sure be willing to buy the regular hex keys based on how awesome they are.
 

PureLeaf

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I have Wera, VIM Socket Allens, PB Swiss, Stanley (Chinese Garbage), Gedore, Stahlwille, and bondhus. I've never had a problem with any of them. They've all done their job as needed.

My real question is, we all discuss how good the tool is. I think its down to the quality of the screw or socket cap. What tolerances are the manufacturers of these screws making it to? Probably alot less exact than the manufacturers of the tools. I could definitely see how you'd have a range of manufacturers all making allen screws, all to slightly different tolerances.
 

Matt Matt

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I have Wera, VIM Socket Allens, PB Swiss, Stanley (Chinese Garbage), Gedore, Stahlwille, and bondhus. I've never had a problem with any of them. They've all done their job as needed.

My real question is, we all discuss how good the tool is. I think its down to the quality of the screw or socket cap. What tolerances are the manufacturers of these screws making it to? Probably alot less exact than the manufacturers of the tools. I could definitely see how you'd have a range of manufacturers all making allen screws, all to slightly different tolerances.


This is very true. The quality of the screw is most often where the biggest problem is. With new installations I almost always use "Holo-Krome" or "Undrako" Grade 8 or 12.9. Sometimes I resort to "Brighton Best".

All three manufactures have their initials stampped in the head.
 

Grant Gunderson

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Ball ends are way more likely to strip a faster. All of my l and t sets do not have ball ends. My PB screwdriver handle ones due but I only use those for spinning a fastener in /out. All torque is done with a non ball end.

I love my PB sets but my wera set is a very close second.
 

48548

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My favs...e8577de2bd046568858544ed75d7fad2.jpg8a94c179a02c722ec97aff604b3ced5b.jpg5aa467adbb903b115296e363c8a67182.jpg9aee018bc86792336e1cc77bcbe44101.jpg4d4286cc7b2ec7ee725c36eca2576ce6.jpg36aaf21640549ee1e16aa335f95d7eae.jpgb0ebafcd2e972836c3c0eba34de5c132.jpgfbcc837b35b0c920bf3d28bef4547ce8.jpg63d552022f3d2031e41f49ba3b2ef367.jpg
 

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Matt Matt

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Heck, we can take this one step further. Take some of your old broken Allan keys and surface grind them using a indexing head to fit a ratchet wrench. This is a 14mm installed.
 

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Olafur

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Just like previous discussions we basically got nothing. No tests, no data, just opinions and at best anecdotal evidence. The general consensus is price equals quality. In this regard PB Swiss probably wins.

There are few tests out there but they are limited in scope and are generally hated among the fan boys here at Garage Journal because they don't completely support their views.

Both China and Taiwan are pumping out very good hex keys and without careful testing it's difficult to tell if they lack something the best brands have to offer. Even for a professional.
 

MushCreek

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I use and abuse (usually with a cheater pipe) hex keys all day, every day working on plastic injection molds with hardened socket head cap screws. I have a set of Wera Hex-Plus that still look new after years of use. The flats are slightly concave for a better bite, and they don't wear at all.
 

OutsideMachinist

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I really like bondhus. They are more than enough for diy. I would say get those and upgrade if you feel its necessary later. Always have need extras anyways. For wrenches I only get the ball end ones. Just remember the ball end will snap off on any brand if you have something tighter than hell you are trying to break free. The ball ends for speed after its already loose.

The stubbys are great to have. There are many cases as previously mentioned in the thread where a stubby wont work. So basically id recommend a standard ball end and stubby ball end set in sae and metric from bondhus.
 

T45

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My real question is, we all discuss how good the tool is. I think its down to the quality of the screw or socket cap. What tolerances are the manufacturers of these screws making it to? Probably alot less exact than the manufacturers of the tools.

This is a very good point. But I would argue that sloppy harware mean you want better tools, not average ones. Every degree of slop is best counter-acted by a degree of precision. Ever HRC point of softness and likliness to dent, is best counteracted by a harder, less likely to deform tool. The result may-be counter-intuitive, but the **** harware many times is better handles with higher grade tools.

Most people that work on bikes or motorcycles, for example, are pretty familiar with stripped/rounded hex keys as well as stripped hex hardware. I can't say either of those situations is fun. Stripping some bolt when trying to do a 30 second adjustment...we've probably all been there at least once. Its easy to lose a weekend when the situation is unexepected and the spares nowhere to be had.

I will say there is a limit to this, and that is situations where "its all junk" including the workpiece. IN this case, I would not hesitate to use the lowest price/quality ratio tools. If you just need some passable tools for DIY use, then "best" doesn't really enter the discussion without alot of **** asterisks.

But generally speaking, the people that rely on these kinds of tools know who they are.
 

48548

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Just bought this...

0081a77a69e563e8f108ffdf94293bd1.jpg
 

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134k

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I have the Wera 950s in both SAE and Metric. It's much cheaper to buy the 950 PKL and not the color coded one, unless you really need color coding. Same Hex Plus technology, just without the colored heat shrink tubing. Both SAE and Metric sets can be bought together for $34.35 USD.
 

calandrod

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Does anyone know if PB Swiss ever made an SAE version of the knurled safety ones? I really like these but rarely use metric.
 

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Dave455

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Does anyone know if PB Swiss ever made an SAE version of the knurled safety ones? I really like these but rarely use metric.
Not as far as I can recall.

It’s a bit if a stretch to call these “safety” tools in my opinion, though I know PB do.

The main selling feature should be the oversize round shanks, which are much stiffer than the hex, rather than the knurling.

Of course, Wera offer their round shank hex keys in Imperial sizes.
IMG_0597.jpegIMG_0598.jpegIMG_0599.jpeg
 
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