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best brake bleeder that doesn't require an air compressor?

e30bradley

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I'm looking for a 'one person brake bleeder' because doing the old fashion way is to damn slow and takes two people.. I'm looking for info on any brake bleeder you have first hand experience using. tell me what one you own and what you like / dislike about it. any specific style better than another? give me anything you got on this subject. :thumbup:
 
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mayhemman

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i do it myself, all i need is a plastic bottle a bit of hose and i bleed em one manned.
two people is nice though.

or buy a pedal pumper. handy gadget id buy if i did more brakes.
 

e-tek

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i do it myself, all i need is a plastic bottle a bit of hose and i bleed em one manned.
two people is nice though.

or buy a pedal pumper. handy gadget id buy if i did more brakes.

OK - so how you doing that??:headscrat

I was using a mityvac, now use the evacuator - it has a hand pump but can also use a compressor. To finish though I still do it 2-manned!


As for the MOTIVE - don't you need to buy an adaptor for every style resevoir? That's expensive.
 
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scott37300

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OK - so how you doing that??:headscrat

I was using a mityvac, now use the evacuator - it has a hand pump but can also use a compressor. To finish though I still do it 2-manned!


As for the MOTIVE - don't you need to buy an adaptor for every style resevoir? That's expensive.

I use a mityvac now.

For the motive you can make your own adaptors by picking up a master cylinder cap and drilling a hole to attach the motive.
 

oldtools

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Gravity bleed is the cheapest and maybe most effective. Grab 4 empty drinking bottles and some hose that fit the bleeder. Only require one person, but do require more time than other methods.
 

DHCrocks

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I've got the motive and for the most part the universal adapter will work on most cars that have a circular reservoir cap. it's not as convenient as a specialized adapter but it will work.
 
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e30bradley

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Gravity bleed is the cheapest and maybe most effective. Grab 4 empty drinking bottles and some hose that fit the bleeder. Only require one person, but do require more time than other methods.

are you talking about the method where you fill the reservoir then open the bleeder and stick it through the cap of a bottle that has some brake fluid in it and pump the pedal? how effective is this? I've heard air can get in the lines through the threads on the bleeder. Isn't that part of the reason why your supposed to close the bleeder before you release the pedal? :headscrat
 

racer1735

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Motion Pro hydraulic brake bleeder. I've used MityVac, the compressed air evacuators, hand-held, but nothing beats this for the ease of use.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0143/

Put a lenght of tube on the little cylinder, drop it into a jug of old fluid, crack the bleeder valve and slowly depress your pedal (or lever on a bike). Once the fluid enters the cylinder, it actuates the check valve, now you simply pump the pedal (slowly) while keeping the fluid reservoir replenished. After you have clear fluid flowing, shut the bleeder valve and move to the next corner.

Using this method, I did all seven (yes, 7) bleed valves on a Honda ST1300 in about 30 minutes.

Don't fall for the imitation plastic valves. This one is aluminum and holds together.
 

TxPowderCoater

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I do it with a big syringe from a turkey injector kit, take needle off, stick on rubber hose, then other end of hose goes on ****** and pull that fluid where ya want it to be easy as pie. I close ******, pull off hose and squirt into a can and then repeat, install hose on ******, crack open ****** and pull fluid.
 
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e30bradley

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Seven!? I just read the instructions to the motion pro thing and it seems like to prime it you need two people?.. and that doesn't seem any different than putting the hose into a jar of old brake fluid. same thing, doesn't let air in (exempt through the threads)
 

Greatbear

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I've used the pump style, the mityvac method, as well as the "one-man" kits that have a hose with the check valve. Last thing I used was the replacement bleeder screws from NAPA that have the check valves built in. I had to replace the bleeder screws anyway, so all that is needed is these, a piece of hose, and a bottle to catch the overflow. A sealant is applied to the threads already. Screw the bleeder in, open about a half turn, attach the hose and bottle and pump the pedal. Unlike using the original bleeder screws, no fluid (or air) leaks around the threads, once you are done, close it up and put a rubber cap over them until next time. Highly recommended.
 
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DodgeZ

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vw-brake-bleeding-5.jpg
 

mayhemman

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^ kinda like what i do. i use a mountain dew bottle with a hole in the cap for the hose. long enough hose so i don't have to worry about it making a mess cuz of distance.

simply i bleed em with it open and go down and tighten the bleeder and repeat will i feel its bled properly. test drive and see how it feels.
 

diesel research

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It really varies on the vehicle. Sometimes gravity bleed doesn't work. Sometimes suction through bleeder doesn't work (some bleeders leak air around the threads)

There is a way of one man pedal bleeding. I have a pedal-holder. That would possibly be a LOT of walking back and forth.

You can make your own pressure bleeder with this:
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51uAPF%2B1V5L._SL500_AA300_.jpg


Depends on, but you may have to seal vent slits and/or have 2 caps.
 

RKA

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One thing about the motive bleeders (or any that pressurize the reservoir)...if your reservoir isn't relatively new, be careful. It's not intended to be pressurized. I cracked a reservoir on a 6 year old car using the bleeder at only 10 psi. The plastic was heat cycled enough to become brittle and this created quite the mess and a delay we weren't prepared for.
 

ndoran

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I have an old Gunsons Eaziebleed that I paid 10 pounds for back in the 80s - it uses the air pressure from the spare tire to push fluid through the master cylinder. It worked extremly well.

http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=674&item=1821

You can see from the link it has increased in price since then. Mine came with a selection of screw caps but there is also a universal cap to fit the non screw cap master cylinders.

I have a snap on bleeder system which works well with shop air to create a vacuum at the bleed ****** but somehow does not work quite as well as pushing the fluid from the master cylinder.
 

racer1735

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Seven!? I just read the instructions to the motion pro thing and it seems like to prime it you need two people?.. and that doesn't seem any different than putting the hose into a jar of old brake fluid. same thing, doesn't let air in (exempt through the threads)

Yep, seven. Two on each caliper and one on a proportioning valve located in between!

Yeah, the instructions make it sound like a two person deal because they assume that one long, slow pump of the pedal won't push enough fluid to fill the cylinder. But, in my experiences, it has (both on bikes as well as cars. THe key is to keep a short hose (3 inches) between the bleed screw and the cylinder, then run a longer hose to your container.
 

oldtools

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are you talking about the method where you fill the reservoir then open the bleeder and stick it through the cap of a bottle that has some brake fluid in it and pump the pedal? how effective is this? I've heard air can get in the lines through the threads on the bleeder. Isn't that part of the reason why your supposed to close the bleeder before you release the pedal? :headscrat

You do not pump the brake. Just let gravity slowly draw the fluid out, so air will not get into the bleeder eventhough it is open. You just need to pour brake fluid into the master cylinder as it is slowly being depleted. Once you use up a bottle or two (or until clear fluid come out), then you are done. Make sure you tap the brake piston with rubber mallet to help remove any potential trapped air while it is being bleeded. You should google gravity bleeding technique.
 
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