Best budget dmm?

[Citation]

Sounds like your batteries were dying and you didn't know.

This is actually another aspect of meter safety. Ideally, the meter will stop allowing you to take readings before a low battery would result in a bad reading.

So, from a safety POV, the best case is if the meter detects a low battery it indicates low battery and locks out the display until the meter is turned off. The Fluke 113-117 meters do this. If your battery is marginal sometimes turning on the backlight will trigger the low battery display.

I think some meters will turn on a low battery indicator but allow you to still take readings until the display fades out. This is fine so long as those readings are within spec.

Not so good is when the battery indicator turns on but the meter can still take reading but now they may not be accurate. The free HF meters behave like this.

Worse case is the meter shows no battery level warning. Instead it just stops meeting it's specifications.

This low battery issue seemed to be a bigger problem with older digital meters. The newer electronics, even on cheap meters, seem smarter about low battery conditions.

OP, I would suggest watching some of Dave Jones's (EEV Blog) videos about multimeters. They are educational with regards to what to look for in a good meter. Some of the meters are likely still available but I suspect most have been updated since his videos first went out. Still, it's a good education.

 

[rlitman]

This is actually another aspect of meter safety. Ideally, the meter will stop allowing you to take readings before a low battery would result in a bad reading...

My nine year old son lives in an ideal world. I wish I could say the same.

As for readings drifting based on battery voltage, not all meters react the same way, and what scale you're on makes a big difference with regards to safety.

I've found that voltage readings are the least affected by low batteries. The settings that generally have the most issues are the ones that require the most current or battery voltage. Capacitance in particular, followed by high resistance ranges.

 

[Buster21]

Fluke 115 would be my choice. Easy to use, rugged, true rms and fits your price range. I have every meter known to man but I always end up grabbing my Fluke 115.

 

[tallfreak]

Fluke 115 would be my choice. Easy to use, rugged, true rms and fits your price range. I have every meter known to man but I always end up grabbing my Fluke 115.

This is what I'm leaning towards right now. Thanks for the responses guys.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[Citation]

I'm not a fan of the Fluke 115. For the same money I'd rather get the Matco 257 or Greenlee version. Both are Brymen meters. The Brymen is the same size but includes mA ranges as well as the thermocouple. The biggest thing I love about Flukes is the touch hold function. The 115 just has a common screen freeze type hold. I also found the display contrast of the 115 (and even the Fluke 87-V) to be inferior to older Fluke models. The 115 is very much a solid meter but I feel it just doesn't offer enough for the price.

 

[tallfreak]

I'm not a fan of the Fluke 115. For the same money I'd rather get the Matco 257 or Greenlee version. Both are Brymen meters. The Brymen is the same size but includes mA ranges as well as the thermocouple. The biggest thing I love about Flukes is the touch hold function. The 115 just has a common screen freeze type hold. I also found the display contrast of the 115 (and even the Fluke 87-V) to be inferior to older Fluke models. The 115 is very much a solid meter but I feel it just doesn't offer enough for the price.

The specs show 10A at 0.01A resolution and 6A at 0.001 resolution? I would like mA resolution at 10+ amps, but for automotive use its fine. If im chasing a draw over 6A, I dont care about mA? Once I get below 1 or 2A its much more important.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[visionguru]

...I would like mA resolution at 10+ amps, ...

Basically, you want a Fluke 88, with 20,000 count display. Fluke 11x and 17x don't cut it.

or search for a 20,000 count DMM, for example,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PR9TSB4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Citation]

The specs show 10A at 0.01A resolution and 6A at 0.001 resolution? I would like mA resolution at 10+ amps, but for automotive use its fine. If im chasing a draw over 6A, I dont care about mA? Once I get below 1 or 2A its much more important.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Here are two Brymen based meters for around the same price as the Fluke 115
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TO5YU0/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JZ1ADCO/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Just for reference as well, this Matco is the same meter as the Greenlee. I've seen these go for under $60 on ebay from time to time
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Matco-MD257-Tech-Multimeter-NIB/184392221476

The Brymens will all give you readings into the uA range. In addition to the uA range, the Brymens have a few other advantages. The meters have a jack alert that will beep if you have the leads in a current range while the meter is in something other than current range (the Fluke 87 and 88 also have this). The Brymen have non-contact voltage detection and the ability to read a thermocouple.

I'm a big Fluke fan. I've got a 27M in my garage and a 187 next to my o-scope (which is next to my Greenlee DM820 and Uni-T 210e). Fluke is my "cost is no object" favorite. Especially the 87. But one of my favorite Fluke features is touch-hold (push button, touch probes to target, wait for stable reading, beep, take probes away, read measurement). Fluke left that off the 115. Brymen doesn't have it either (Metrix and Agilent are the only ones I've found with it). It's just such a damn useful feature at times. Anyway, if the 115 doesn't have that then I can' see why I want it over the well designed alternative that at least gives me a temperature probe (which I do use from time to time).

BTW, if chasing mA draws is a big deal, the UT-210e is really nice since it's a DC clamp meter that can do AC/DC up to 100A or down to 1mA (in the 2A range). It's not like I don't already have a lot of meters but a clamp meter is really nice.

 

[CGarage]

http://pdimeters.com/products/Automotive/DM930.php

 

[tallfreak]

Here are two Brymen based meters for around the same price as the Fluke 115

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TO5YU0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JZ1ADCO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Just for reference as well, this Matco is the same meter as the Greenlee. I've seen these go for under $60 on ebay from time to time

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Matco-MD257-Tech-Multimeter-NIB/184392221476



The Brymens will all give you readings into the uA range. In addition to the uA range, the Brymens have a few other advantages. The meters have a jack alert that will beep if you have the leads in a current range while the meter is in something other than current range (the Fluke 87 and 88 also have this). The Brymen have non-contact voltage detection and the ability to read a thermocouple.



I'm a big Fluke fan. I've got a 27M in my garage and a 187 next to my o-scope (which is next to my Greenlee DM820 and Uni-T 210e). Fluke is my "cost is no object" favorite. Especially the 87. But one of my favorite Fluke features is touch-hold (push button, touch probes to target, wait for stable reading, beep, take probes away, read measurement). Fluke left that off the 115. Brymen doesn't have it either (Metrix and Agilent are the only ones I've found with it). It's just such a damn useful feature at times. Anyway, if the 115 doesn't have that then I can' see why I want it over the well designed alternative that at least gives me a temperature probe (which I do use from time to time).



BTW, if chasing mA draws is a big deal, the UT-210e is really nice since it's a DC clamp meter that can do AC/DC up to 100A or down to 1mA (in the 2A range). It's not like I don't already have a lot of meters but a clamp meter is really nice.

As inexpensive as that clamp meter is, I might just get one for work to go with my Fluke.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[tallfreak]

I found my recently deceased meter in my Amazon orders. You guys might get a kick out of this. I paid $8.77 with free shipping 2 years ago.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXCROEH/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I used it a good bit, but mostly for confirming I had voltage. Nothing that needed accuracy. I brought home my fluke when I needed a good meter at home.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[cheechi]

Below your price range: Fluke 27 F/M (or a decent condition 27)

At your price range: Brymen BM235

Above your price range: Fluke 115 Fluke 117/323 kit

all are true RMS

 

[IndyGarage]

Fluke 101 is something like $50

I bought a Fluke 115B for under $100 and it works great

 

[Negen]

Better prices can be had for this brymen and also other rebranded 235 can be had in the 89-115 if one was looking for lowest price.

Below your price range: Fluke 27 F/M (or a decent condition 27)

At your price range: Brymen BM235

Above your price range: Fluke 115 Fluke 117/323 kit

all are true RMS

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[cheechi]

Better prices can be had for this brymen and also other rebranded 235 can be had in the 89-115 if one was looking for lowest price.

Could you provide examples? I also like saving money.

 

[Negen]

eevblog store should be cheaper for the 235. $121

The flir dm66 that I posted before is the same dmm. $110-129

Could you provide examples? I also like saving money.

The green Lee 200a is a 257 brymen rebrand that's 75-90$

The green lee 510a is a 235 but is higher prices. $144+

The klien mm700 also seems to be a Bremen



Not sure all the deals but eev blog is getting a new metre soon in middle of the brymen and uei.




Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[cheechi]

tyvm

 

[emoze]

reviving old thread - some useful thoughts above

i am looking for a reliable DMM that i can use for parasite draw diagnostics: mv & mA scales

i have a Fluke 88 (early model) that was factory re-calibrated back in 2014 - recently trying to use it with an amp-clamp probe (tried both Innova & EIS) i find the mV scale is erratic to the point of variances well beyond the target 50mV-50mA range i need for parasite draw diagnostics both for amp-probe use and/or voltage drop tests on fuses, but it does zero & hold zero before i attach any leads - as soon as i attach either the Fluke leads or the amp-probe, the readout bounces all over (battery is new & fuses just replaced)

fwiw- i did use the Fluke to direct measure mA draw on car, and it is stable, but about 1/2 the readings i get via the probes (22mA direct vs "maybe" 5mV=50mA) using clamp probes but the probes output bounces from 2-to-30 so it ain't really possible to even guess an accurate number)

- Fluke no longer "repairs" these, & will give me a slight discount on a new 88v, but am not sure i need one for my limited future use, and, other than the mV mA problem above, it works just fine

i doubt buying any used DMM off eBay would resolve the accuracy issues - druther spend same $$ on a new DMM that is useful for the singular purpose of parasite draw diagnostics

by comparison i have an older Centech for the travelling toolbox that does not exhibit the variance problem, but it's 200mV & 20A scales are inadequate for my needs with a probe

? or maybe ? ... neither of the probes i have tried are stable enuf to hold reliable output readings?

? recommendations?

 

[Forgottonia]

I bought a Craftsman with an ammeter clamp a few years ago. It's about like this one, which goes for $110 now. I have a couple of cheapo DMMs laying around too. I use the cheap ones just about as much as the Craftsman.

Fluke DMMs are probably a bit higher quality than any of mine though.

 

[no704]

Have had decent luck with the red cased one HF sells for $60. And it has a thermocouple input.

 

[Citation]

reviving old thread - some useful thoughts above

i am looking for a reliable DMM that i can use for parasite draw diagnostics: mv & mA scales

i have a Fluke 88 (early model) that was factory re-calibrated back in 2014 - recently trying to use it with an amp-clamp probe (tried both Innova & EIS) i find the mV scale is erratic to the point of variances well beyond the target 50mV-50mA range i need for parasite draw diagnostics both for amp-probe use and/or voltage drop tests on fuses, but it does zero & hold zero before i attach any leads - as soon as i attach either the Fluke leads or the amp-probe, the readout bounces all over (battery is new & fuses just replaced)

fwiw- i did use the Fluke to direct measure mA draw on car, and it is stable, but about 1/2 the readings i get via the probes (22mA direct vs "maybe" 5mV=50mA) using clamp probes but the probes output bounces from 2-to-30 so it ain't really possible to even guess an accurate number)

- Fluke no longer "repairs" these, & will give me a slight discount on a new 88v, but am not sure i need one for my limited future use, and, other than the mV mA problem above, it works just fine

i doubt buying any used DMM off eBay would resolve the accuracy issues - druther spend same $$ on a new DMM that is useful for the singular purpose of parasite draw diagnostics

by comparison i have an older Centech for the travelling toolbox that does not exhibit the variance problem, but it's 200mV & 20A scales are inadequate for my needs with a probe

? or maybe ? ... neither of the probes i have tried are stable enuf to hold reliable output readings?

? recommendations?

Look at the UniT clamp meter I mentioned in my previous post. Most clamp meters are AC, not DC. Also in line measurements are almost certainly more actuate than a clamp meter. They are also more likely to blow a fuse.

 

[richfinn]

Take your Fluke 88 home when you need a multimeter, in fact use the **** out of it as much as possible (that's what it was designed for).

I don't get why you would want to be bothered learning and getting used to the quirks of a new DMM when you already have a really good one sat idle??

spend your money on something else!!

 

[emoze]

Take your Fluke 88 home when you need a multimeter, in fact use the **** out of it as much as possible (that's what it was designed for).

I don't get why you would want to be bothered learning and getting used to the quirks of a new DMM when you already have a really good one sat idle??

spend your money on something else!!

good point - thing is i'm not sure if the 88 is still accurate - no way to verify/test it vs comparing to another decent meter & i don't have easy access to other garages or mechanics due to my rural location

DMM accuracy question

i have a older Fluke 88; after zero'ing on mV, mA, or ohms; when i attach leads, the readings get a bit erratic & don't hold zero even after i re-zero; is this normal? the variation ("bouncing" readings) is a problem especially when trying to read parasite draw or when using both eis &...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[richfinn]

good point - thing is i'm not sure if the 88 is still accurate - no way to verify/test it vs comparing to another decent meter & i don't have easy access to other garages or mechanics due to my rural location

DMM accuracy question

i have a older Fluke 88; after zero'ing on mV, mA, or ohms; when i attach leads, the readings get a bit erratic & don't hold zero even after i re-zero; is this normal? the variation ("bouncing" readings) is a problem especially when trying to read parasite draw or when using both eis &...

www.garagejournal.com

Select mV scale and touch probes together if you get 0.00v or 0.000v you are close enough for automotive work in my opinion.

You might want to make a habit of replacing your leads and probes every other year if they are really old and you get weird readings
(Don't skimp buy top quality leads and probes)

The "floating" voltage when the probes are open circuit is actually quite useful from a diagnostics point of view, as it let's you identify an open circuit without having to revert to the ohmmeter or disconnecting 12v circuits when testing (when you get used to doing it).

The real "trick" I have learned about multimeters and other test equipment when fixing cars is know the tool inside out and use the right accessories for whatever test you are carrying out, second guessing your equipment is a sure route to failure, it's all about speed and confidence in the results!!!

I really love the min/max record function on Flukes (it just works accurately where other meters can be hit and miss) learn to trust the 88, it's a great tool and most anything else will be a downgrade!!!

 

[DemoFly]

For home use I'd just get a clamp meter. I would not need anything better for residential.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3C6DTX/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I'd buy this personally.

 

[Citation]

good point - thing is i'm not sure if the 88 is still accurate - no way to verify/test it vs comparing to another decent meter & i don't have easy access to other garages or mechanics due to my rural location

DMM accuracy question

i have a older Fluke 88; after zero'ing on mV, mA, or ohms; when i attach leads, the readings get a bit erratic & don't hold zero even after i re-zero; is this normal? the variation ("bouncing" readings) is a problem especially when trying to read parasite draw or when using both eis &...

www.garagejournal.com

Fluke meters generally don't go out of specification unless they are clearly damaged. My Fluke 27 is from the Reagan days. It's still in spec.