Best Budget Mini-mill?

[Gore]

So I know I'm cutting it close, but I'm looking to buy a mini-mill ...new, not used, and perhaps find one with a Black Friday deal (although that's not a deal breaker). I've read that the Hitorque from LittleMachineShop, Grizzly, and actually the one from Harbor Freight are all similar and adequate for what I'd be doing...which is milling aluminum on AR lowers...perhaps extremely rarely steel.

Can someone point me in a direction around this sub 1k price range? One that perhaps has a preferrable part vs another...or anything else you guys know of that I obviously don't yet.

Thanks.

 

[royesses]

Little machine shop 3990 is probably the best under 1K:
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3990

You'll want to add a 3 axis DRO to that Igaging absolute would be the cheapest DRO set up.

Higher quality would be precision Matthews starting at $1499.

HF mini mill with 25% off coupon would be about $399 but you'll be adding many upgrades and a lot of time massaging it.

I have the HF mini mill and like it, but I don't do gunsmithing.

About 2 to 3 times the cost of the mill is going to go into tooling and accessories. Rotory tables, mill vises, boring heads and bars, etc.

Roy

 

[MShaw]

I have a Sherline. Not real rugged but you can do a lot with it if you take your time. They offer a wealth of tooling designed for it at reasonable prices. I have had mine for 10 years doing hobby work on it and it is still very accurate. Attached is a picture of a small steam engine I made with all the mill work including the crankshaft done on my Sherline. For scale the flywheel is 5" in diameter.

 

[ptschram]

Watever you get, go with an R-8 spindle. You'll hate life with Morse taper spindles as there is much more tooling available with the R-8.

I searched and searched and searched for a mill-drill of any make, any condition and stumbled upon an H-F knee mill.

It's light and chatters if I get too impatient, but it beats Hell out of a mini-mill or the H-F micro mill I have (with Morse taper spindle-LOL)

edit-if you're spending that much (as described above) consider a full-blown mill-drill. For less than double the price, you get a LOT more machine-IMO

 

[R.Anderson]

I'll second the igaging for a cheap DRO and having it a R8 spindle. I have heard that the mini mills are to small for some milling jobs for gun parts. If I were you look at gun forums, I am sure there are plenty of people out there doing what you want to do.

 

[Stuey]

I'd also go with the Little Machine Shop version.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Slightly off topic ...

Everything I have read says stay away from mill-drills or anything with a round column,

A square, dovetailed column make sense, but I always wonder about the column height/travel. After you add a vice, you loose a lot of travel. Add a rotary table and you have next to nothing left.

Tool pressure, when the head is near maximum height has to cause a lot of flex (and is likely why the column is not longer). How much of an issue is the flex in the vertical column ?

 

[royesses]

Slightly off topic ...

Everything I have read says stay away from mill-drills or anything with a round column,

A square, dovetailed column make sense, but I always wonder about the column height/travel. After you add a vice, you loose a lot of travel. Add a rotary table and you have next to nothing left.

Tool pressure, when the head is near maximum height has to cause a lot of flex (and is likely why the column is not longer). How much of an issue is the flex in the vertical column ?

All of the above is correct. The Sieg machines have a rectangular column(LMS, HF,Grizzly,etc) the HF has a tilting column which is not as stiff as the non tilt versions. You learn to work within the machines capabilities. Flex in the column is a problem causing slow small cuts and some inaccuracy and chattering. It also effects surface finish quality. The bench top machines don't have a lot of working travel and you lose a lot from a vise and more from a rotary table. They are hobby machines. A knee mill is very very desirable but usually not in the price range.

Benchtops don't require a huge amount of shop space or special shop wiring circuits. They are limited but in many cases they are all we have room for or what we can afford.

The Sherline is an awesome little mill and so is the lathe. Mshaw does beautiful work with his owing to his very high skill level. A real craftsman.

The HF is R8 unless you get one of the old stock machines. R8 is the only way to go. Even then the cost of tooling really adds up. It's an expensive hobby.

If you are going to do full time gunsmithing consider a used Bridgeport or Taiwan clone.

This is just my opinion as a hobbyist, not a machinist.

Roy

 

[risc]

+1 on little machine shop.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Flex in the column is a problem causing slow small cuts and some inaccuracy and chattering. It also effects surface finish quality.

Has any one come up with a "solution" to stiffen the column or add additional height (I know there are bigger tables with more X and Y) ?

Or is the answer to just get a bigger mill, like a Rong Fu (or clone) or a used Bridgeport ?

 

[royesses]

Has any one come up with a "solution" to stiffen the column or add additional height (I know there are bigger tables with more X and Y) ?

Or is the answer to just get a bigger mill, like a Rong Fu (or clone) or a used Bridgeport ?

Something like the High Torque bench Mill from LMS ($1499.00)has a larger solid column bolted directly to the base. Not too much you can do with the small mini mills. Bolt the mill to a steel plate and bolt supports to the column would do some good. That and convert them to a sold column from the adjustable angle version.

For larger jobs and faster cuts a bigger mill is the best bet. The mini mill is still capable of a lot of work that a hobbyist would do. There are gunsmiths who use them for cutting sight dovetails and other work and have great success with them.

 

[Gore]

So...here we are on Monday...Cyber Monday (not that it matters)...and there were no deals that I found on mills

With that being said, I still want one. I will most likely end up with the LMS for 900ish...but truth be told...I don't know how much I will end up using it. Is there a cheaper one that is "close enough" for now? Like the Sieg, Grizzly, or HF? Or is the LMS 3990 just that much better? The reason I ask is because a lot of people recommend stepping up to something bigger...and if the gap between mini and knee is that great, I think I'm fighting a losing battle trying to get the "best" mini mill...when in reality what I need is a bigger unit. I see this current purchase a "get my feet wet" mill, and I will either pick up the hobby and buy a bigger one...or quit and sell it.

The only caveat is that I would like to be able to add a DRO and perhaps CNC capability down the road.

Sorry for the rambling, but I'm at work and only had a second.

Link me to some deals if at all possible. Thanks guys

 

[bmk]

I would look at the square column Enco. It does a fair job. Just be aware of it's limitations.

 

[owdlvr]

So...here we are on Monday...Cyber Monday (not that it matters)...and there were no deals that I found on mills

With that being said, I still want one. I will most likely end up with the LMS for 900ish...but truth be told...I don't know how much I will end up using it. Is there a cheaper one that is "close enough" for now? Like the Sieg, Grizzly, or HF? Or is the LMS 3990 just that much better? The reason I ask is because a lot of people recommend stepping up to something bigger...and if the gap between mini and knee is that great, I think I'm fighting a losing battle trying to get the "best" mini mill...when in reality what I need is a bigger unit. I see this current purchase a "get my feet wet" mill, and I will either pick up the hobby and buy a bigger one...or quit and sell it.

The only caveat is that I would like to be able to add a DRO and perhaps CNC capability down the road.

Sorry for the rambling, but I'm at work and only had a second.

Link me to some deals if at all possible. Thanks guys

I was in your position a year a half ago. I wanted a mini-mill as a starter unit, figuring I needed "something" to learn milling, but knew I would have to upgrade down the road to something larger. After 6mo of serious looking I broke down and realized I needed to get the biggest mill I could still move easily if I moved (was renting a house). I spent an honest 12mo I've looking, researching, shopping, etc. And let me tell you what I learned in a heartbeat:

1) Unless you are building those mini steam engines and tiny stuff as your hobby, buy the biggest mill you can afford & fit into your space - You'll thank me in the long run.

2) Round Column vs Dovetail: A round column requires that you re-zero and re-index your work every time you raise and lower the head. Round column is more versatile in respects that you can fit bigger stuff in a similar sized mill, but every time you move the column the zero point for your work can change, as does the relation to X-Y axis. For _me_ this was unacceptable. I'll take a slight limitation on work size over re-zeroing the work. Personal preference.

3) Grizzly Machines (and Craftex in Canada), are actually great value for the money. Research the limitations, be sure you're okay with them, and never look back. For example, my Craftex machine has a nylon gear and two brass gears in the head. Online complaints about the same machine with a Grizzly logo suggested the gears are prone to stripping if you overload the machine. I simply factored the cost of gears into my purchase budget and bought a 'spare set' when I bought the machine. I may never use them, and could have wasted $75 sitting on the shelf...but I have them should I crash the machine mid-project.

4) The mill is only part of the purchase budget, you'll spend a lot more on tooling - If your budget is $1k, and you want to be up and running after purchase, you're actually looking at $500 mill and $500 in bits, tools, work holding, etc. A lot of guys start by buying a mill, and then slowly buying tooling as they can afford it / need it. I'm of the opinion that you should buy a mill and a whack of tooling to get you started, because ultimately it's far more useable in the long run. (I also think a new car enthusiast should buy a socket SET, not just the socket they need for the first job). So take your budget, cut it in half and spend half on tooling, half on the mill.

5) Lastly, and most importantly, recognize the size and quality of your machine and work within it's limitations. My Craftex 601 unit isn't a Knee Mill, so it's going to vibrate and chatter before a knee mill does. BUT, knowing that I simply have to work according to my machine. I take smaller passes, I work a little slower, and my machine is milling projects just as well as a buddies $60k mega-mill. Only difference? My jobs take longer.

Search my username and posts you'll find a thread with information about my mill and some more info that might help you out.

-Dave

 

[66fl]

Upgrading and learning with the HF unit for me is part of the learning curve.
Column stiffeners and air/hydraulic cylinders to prevent head drop are all over the hobby machinist forums.
They have a good resale value and the tooling is R8 if you findd you need to move up. For me my skills and experience limit me more than the machine. Of course if I had half the time I spent researching working with the machine I would be ready for a lower by now. The Precision Matthews have strong following as well. Almost too much information out there and opinions run strong. Get as much as you can afford and see how it goes

 

[gungatim]

Slightly off topic ...

Everything I have read says stay away from mill-drills or anything with a round column,

A square, dovetailed column make sense, but I always wonder about the column height/travel. After you add a vice, you loose a lot of travel. Add a rotary table and you have next to nothing left.

Tool pressure, when the head is near maximum height has to cause a lot of flex (and is likely why the column is not longer). How much of an issue is the flex in the vertical column ?

I've got a typical Taiwan 3-in1 mill drill lathe, and while lots of bashing on that style, it does AR lowers just fine. haven't used the lathe, but I did plenty of other projects in aluminum with no problems. haven't done any steel though, but no problem with flex.

I did initially have issues with lack of height, but I took off the drill chuck and bought a set of morse taper collets off amazon and gained 3". you don't need a vice, you clamp to the table. I was fortunate to get a ****-ton of tooling at an auction that included 2 full sets of those hold-downs you see advertised in the metal box, mine are USA made and can clamp down damn near anything.

if I were buying new, I would buy the $899 grizzly mill, but I came across my 3-in-1 for $300 new but never used (still coated in cosmolene, probably 25 yrs. old). paid $40 for the tooling and re-sold 10lbs of dull carbide to scrap to cover my cost. scrap carbide was paying around $10/lb at the time...save up your dull carbide, it adds up!

 

[Gore]

I wish that there was a "like" button or something for each of these posts...that way you'd know I was reading them all with me trying to respond individually.

Believe me...I am reading them ALL...as this isn't the start of my researching...but I am itching to pull the trigger SOON.

I know the title asked for a "mini mill", but you guys have me considering a knee mill now. Best budget option?

p.s. I am aware of the high cost of the add-ons...so I'm trying to stay around 1k for just the mill.

 

[Gore]

I was in your position a year a half ago. I wanted a mini-mill as a starter unit, figuring I needed "something" to learn milling, but knew I would have to upgrade down the road to something larger. After 6mo of serious looking I broke down and realized I needed to get the biggest mill I could still move easily if I moved (was renting a house). I spent an honest 12mo I've looking, researching, shopping, etc. And let me tell you what I learned in a heartbeat:

1) Unless you are building those mini steam engines and tiny stuff as your hobby, buy the biggest mill you can afford & fit into your space - You'll thank me in the long run.

2) Round Column vs Dovetail: A round column requires that you re-zero and re-index your work every time you raise and lower the head. Round column is more versatile in respects that you can fit bigger stuff in a similar sized mill, but every time you move the column the zero point for your work can change, as does the relation to X-Y axis. For _me_ this was unacceptable. I'll take a slight limitation on work size over re-zeroing the work. Personal preference.

3) Grizzly Machines (and Craftex in Canada), are actually great value for the money. Research the limitations, be sure you're okay with them, and never look back. For example, my Craftex machine has a nylon gear and two brass gears in the head. Online complaints about the same machine with a Grizzly logo suggested the gears are prone to stripping if you overload the machine. I simply factored the cost of gears into my purchase budget and bought a 'spare set' when I bought the machine. I may never use them, and could have wasted $75 sitting on the shelf...but I have them should I crash the machine mid-project.

4) The mill is only part of the purchase budget, you'll spend a lot more on tooling - If your budget is $1k, and you want to be up and running after purchase, you're actually looking at $500 mill and $500 in bits, tools, work holding, etc. A lot of guys start by buying a mill, and then slowly buying tooling as they can afford it / need it. I'm of the opinion that you should buy a mill and a whack of tooling to get you started, because ultimately it's far more useable in the long run. (I also think a new car enthusiast should buy a socket SET, not just the socket they need for the first job). So take your budget, cut it in half and spend half on tooling, half on the mill.

5) Lastly, and most importantly, recognize the size and quality of your machine and work within it's limitations. My Craftex 601 unit isn't a Knee Mill, so it's going to vibrate and chatter before a knee mill does. BUT, knowing that I simply have to work according to my machine. I take smaller passes, I work a little slower, and my machine is milling projects just as well as a buddies $60k mega-mill. Only difference? My jobs take longer.

Search my username and posts you'll find a thread with information about my mill and some more info that might help you out.

-Dave

Awesome post...thanks

 

[Adam.C]

I never milled an AR lower, but I am familiar with the process. The tool changes will kill you with an X2 sized mill. These mills just aren't accurate enough to do that job efficiently.

I don't believe any of the mills you mention are any more accurate than the cheapest HF mini mill. The LMS model has the best features. I recommend an X3 at a minimum.

 

[Adam.C]

Before buying any Chinese machine tools, one must first buy a good surface plate and at least a good Starrett no20 square. Also, buy a Starrett surface gage and mount a dial test indicator to it. You will need to inspect every blessed feature of every tool.

In real machine shops, they buy US made stuff which is all straight and square and concentric. They have QC departments to tackle NIST and careful inspections.

In home machine shops, nothing from China can be trusted or taken at face value. So you need the tools and expertise of a QC expert just to face a piece of stock and drill a perpendicular hole.

If your budget demands Chinese tooling, start looking for a surface plate now. If you are patient, you can find them super inexpensively. I bought a Starrett crystal pink 12x18" on eBay for $10. It was listed as an auction with an opening bid of $10 + $100 shipping. I drove an hour topic it up. Steal.

Also look for a granite angle, and US made 123 blocks. Suburban are good. Starrett too. If you buy any Chinese measuring equipment you'll need gage blocks. Chinese manufacturers lie about everything.

 

[gte718p]

Before buying any Chinese machine tools, one must first buy a good surface plate and at least a good Starrett no20 square. Also, buy a Starrett surface gage and mount a dial test indicator to it. You will need to inspect every blessed feature of every tool.

In real machine shops, they buy US made stuff which is all straight and square and concentric. They have QC departments to tackle NIST and careful inspections.

In home machine shops, nothing from China can be trusted or taken at face value. So you need the tools and expertise of a QC expert just to face a piece of stock and drill a perpendicular hole.

If your budget demands Chinese tooling, start looking for a surface plate now. If you are patient, you can find them super inexpensively. I bought a Starrett crystal pink 12x18" on eBay for $10. It was listed as an auction with an opening bid of $10 + $100 shipping. I drove an hour topic it up. Steal.

Also look for a granite angle, and US made 123 blocks. Suburban are good. Starrett too. If you buy any Chinese measuring equipment you'll need gage blocks. Chinese manufacturers lie about everything.

Good grief, not everyone is looking to build a space shuttle. I got my RungFu 31 from ENCO, may it rest in piece, two years ago on Cyber Monday for $900 shipped.

The head needed to be trammed. A little more complicated on a machine that is not adjustable, but other wise it has been a perfectly good little machine. It made perfectly good parts before the column was trammed also. Now that is it a CNC machine, it has turned out hundreds of very nice parts. Is it a Fadal VMC, no. However, it is more then good enough for a the 4x4, the RC car, and the guns.

The round column mill has draw backs, and I would prefer a square column. However, I didn't want to pay for it and I love my little Chinese mil.

 

[wilsonsmith]

I suggested G8689 Mini Milling Machine. (585.00$) and its features are listed below:

Features:

• Dovetail column
• Safety shut off switch
• Adjustable depth stop
• Fine feed head control
• Geared drive
• Clear guard on spindle
• Rubber chip guards on ways
• Zero setting dials
• Dials read inches
• Adjustable dovetail ways on column
• 3/8″ and 1/2″ collets
• 1/2″ drill chuck
• 2 T-nuts

 

[Gore]

I have to ask...aren't I trying to stay away from mt3 in favor of r8?

 

[R.Anderson]

I have to ask...aren't I trying to stay away from mt3 in favor of r8?

I highlyrecoment R8. I do not think you will find many people that will recommend MT3. R8 is very common for a reason. Also with R8 tooling is easy to find.

 

[Gore]

For starters, thank you to everyone who is sticking with this thread. With topics like these I usually see one of the following things happening...as I'm sure you do too:
1. People feel like "I told you what to buy...end of discussion"
2. Arguments ensue...thread devolves
3. OP asks the same question 50 times to get the answer he wants
4. Info overload...either too much, too specific, too "tool snobby"

I am trying to resist killing this thread, because I REALLY want a mill...so permit me to move the goal post a bit. Let's say I was willing to spend 1500 max. What kinds of doors does that open? HF has some interesting looking stuff around that price point...and it seems like their mills are legit and not their usual ****.

 

[Cypherian]

For starters, thank you to everyone who is sticking with this thread. With topics like these I usually see one of the following things happening...as I'm sure you do too:
1. People feel like "I told you what to buy...end of discussion"
2. Arguments ensue...thread devolves
3. OP asks the same question 50 times to get the answer he wants
4. Info overload...either too much, too specific, too "tool snobby"

I am trying to resist killing this thread, because I REALLY want a mill...so permit me to move the goal post a bit. Let's say I was willing to spend 1500 max. What kinds of doors does that open? HF has some interesting looking stuff around that price point...and it seems like their mills are legit and not their usual ****.

That opens a lot of doors depending on your needs, space allotted, power available and willingness to drive etc.

Check gov and state auctions you might find a full size Bridgeport for that much won't be CNC controlled but unless your into full on production you shouldn't really need it. CL might have some stuff too but again you will have to be willing to drive and be able to move it etc .

Check these sites:
http://www.wheelermachinery.com/
http://www.scottmachinery.com/

Not knowing where you are in CA I found this http://slo.craigslist.org/tls/5833617553.html so your options do open up with the price increase.


Cypher

 

[gte718p]

That opens a lot of doors depending on your needs, space allotted, power available and willingness to drive etc.

Check gov and state auctions you might find a full size Bridgeport for that much won't be CNC controlled but unless your into full on production you shouldn't really need it. CL might have some stuff too but again you will have to be willing to drive and be able to move it etc .

Check these sites:
http://www.wheelermachinery.com/
http://www.scottmachinery.com/

Not knowing where you are in CA I found this http://slo.craigslist.org/tls/5833617553.html so your options do open up with the price increase.


Cypher

While I agree with you the OP clearly said he wants new. That is fine

The HF mini mill is up to doing AL AR lowers. It is not a bad little toy. However, it is a project in and of itself. It is actually fairly fun, and the cost off entry is definitely right. You can upgrade it as you go along. Eventually you will spend almost the cost of the mill making it right. When you start out you are going to be limited by your skills what ever mill you end up with. As your skills improve to the point the mill is the limiting factor, you can upgrade the mill. Ultimately after all of the upgrades it makes a respectable entry into learning CNC. It can cut steel but very very very slowly. I doubt anyone would recommend it.

Grizzley and a a few others sell the same tool in a different color at a slightly higher cost. You are paying for the color and some customer service.

Littlemachine shop sells the same mill in yet another different color. You can buy it with all the upgrades done and it is a respectable tool right out of the box. You pay a premium for that. It will be about $1000 to your door.

The mini mills are all limited in work envelop and cutting speed. If what you want to do fits in this envelop this is the place to start. Get an R8 taper, and good tooling and it will upgrade with you if you decide to go bigger in the future.

If what you want to do doesn't fit in the envelop you move to the benchtop mills. Then you have the round column vs square column debate. Just like the mini mills several people sell the Rung Fu mills. Enco, Grizzly and a few others are the bottom of the pack. The Precision Matthews mentioned before is the best of the ones I've seen. It will top out your budget by itself. Generally a good rule is you will spend as much in tooling as you do on the mill. However, you can do it over time, you don't need everything immediately.

If what you want to do doesn't fit in the work envelop of the benchtop mills you move into the knee mills. The best values in these are used. The Clausing 8520 is about the gold standard, but are hard to find. I can't speak on the new Chinese mills. I have never used one. However with any of the full sized mills you need to ensure you have room and the power to run them.

 

[gungatim]

^^ what he said.

I like grizzly because they have great support and service, but you pay a bit more for it.

if it hasn't been already said, any mini-mill can crank out AR lowers, as well as a drill press, or even a hand drill and a router has been done (they make templates for routers, believe it or not).

BUT, as anyone will tell you, once you start playing, you eventually outgrow whatever you bought because you end up wanting to do more than just an occasional lower.

buy the biggest you can afford/have space for, unless you stumble across a deal on a used one like I did.

here is a link to a great resource, although it focuses on import lathes, there is a section comparing the various mini-mills, features, and links to setup and mods, etc.

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Reviews/Reviews.htm I learned a lot there...

 

[pi_guy]

I have to ask...aren't I trying to stay away from mt3 in favor of r8?

Honestly there is more R8 tooling but what little mill is going to use a 3 inch end mill.
I just spent close to 1k in tooling for the enco 3-1. The morse taper 3 has a tool holder for 3/4 of an inch.
Some of the stuff is set for MT3 like the turret tailstock.
Trying to find a Allaris toolpost BXA I have the tool holders and that size will fit the lathe.

Two places
victornet.com has lots of small mill and lathe stuff
travers.com good prices.

Heading out to get some material for a project or two and one to use for squaring and setting the tolerances on the machine.

 

[Gore]

^^ what he said.

I like grizzly because they have great support and service, but you pay a bit more for it.

if it hasn't been already said, any mini-mill can crank out AR lowers, as well as a drill press, or even a hand drill and a router has been done (they make templates for routers, believe it or not).

BUT, as anyone will tell you, once you start playing, you eventually outgrow whatever you bought because you end up wanting to do more than just an occasional lower.

buy the biggest you can afford/have space for, unless you stumble across a deal on a used one like I did.

here is a link to a great resource, although it focuses on import lathes, there is a section comparing the various mini-mills, features, and links to setup and mods, etc.

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Reviews/Reviews.htm I learned a lot there...

Funny you mention it, because I actually already have the jigs for the drill/router based AR kits on order. I will essentially be using them as guide, as I cannot bring myself to use a router on this type of stuff in any long term capacity. Plus, the kits have a relatively short lifespan so I would need to figure something else out afterwards anyway. Also, I already have a drill press...but know enough to not attempt to use it as a mill.

 

[kingstrider]

Glad I saw this thread, I lucked into a lightly used LMS Sieg mill a couple months ago on craigslist for cheap and need to buy some tooling. Any suggestions on what tooling I would need to cut dovetails on barrels and relocate sights?

 

[royesses]

Glad I saw this thread, I lucked into a lightly used LMS Sieg mill a couple months ago on craigslist for cheap and need to buy some tooling. Any suggestions on what tooling I would need to cut dovetails on barrels and relocate sights?

Look at Brownell's:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/power-tools-accessories/milling-cutters/index.htm

 

[owdlvr]

Okay, with your budget increase to $1500 I'm going to actually back away from the original plan of 50% mill, 50% tooling...only because I'm going to assume you're buying a NEW mill. If you're buying a USED mill, your budget should be 50/50, accounting for any tooling your used mill comes with. (ex: a $1200 used mill with tonnes of tooling is not a '1200 mill').

If you can stretch to $1500, how long before you can afford $2k? Here's my brand new, great support, $2k starter package. Now, I haven't accounted for taxes or shipping costs but I also don't know if Grizzly has a dealer in California. But lets say $2k before tax:


Grizzly G0704 - http://www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Mill-with-Stand/G0704?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com

Milling Vice, 6" - http://www.grizzly.com/products/Premium-Milling-Vise-6-/G7155?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com

End Mill set - http://www.grizzly.com/products/HSS-TiN-Coated-2-and-4-Flute-End-Mills-20-pc-Set/G9760?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com


Indicator Holder - http://www.grizzly.com/products/Universal-Indicator-Holder/G9629?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com This is actually a pretty crappy one, but it will do the job. I started with one, and successfully zero'd out my machine.

Test indicator - http://www.grizzly.com/products/Test-Indicator-0-001-Resolution/G9610?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com

Rotary Table - http://www.grizzly.com/products/Combination-Rotary-Table-6-/G1049?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com Note: You will need to buy some thick and expensive aluminum to make a sacrificial plate for this, but I haven't included that in the budget. It's not 100% necessary, but definitely nice. I think I covered making a "rotary table pallet" in my milling thread I set you to previously.

Parallel Set - http://www.grizzly.com/products/Combination-Rotary-Table-6-/G1049?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com

Note that everything I've linked to except the mill can be bought at places other than Grizzly, and often cheaper. I just used a budget of $2k and one website to work it all out. I have assumed you own dill bits, but you'll want drill bits in Imperial, Metric and Letters. I use this set: https://www.accusizetools.com/0422-0003-115-pc-hss-tin-coated-drill-bit-sets/ But note that is in Canadian dollars, from a Canadian supplier. Harbor Freight USED to have the exact same set, don't know if they still do.

Anyways, for $2k you can get a VERY capable setup, which I'm quite sure you could do for $1500-1750 if you shopped around, and found some local shops that have seasonal sales on. You probably don't need a rotary table to start, so maybe wait on that one until you see one on sale. Everything else, though, you will need to setup and start using your mill.

*edit* I should add that the stuff I've listed are the items I reach for everytime I go to use my mill. I've left out my digital calipers for measuring, assuming you already own a set, and any custom mills (ball ends, countersinks, etc) which are 'job specific'. Everything on the list above you cand find used and onsale, and there is NO reason you should be buying a vice, or a rotary table, or any other item you find on Craigslist before you buy a mill. In your price range the max size you want for a vice is 6". 5" would actually be better, 4" will be too small for *some* jobs. But a $50 3" mill from Craigslist? Heck yeah!

HTH,

-Dave

 

[Gore]

Thoughts? Although not new...which I do want...
Bridgeport mill
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/for/5872158400.html

 

[gte718p]

I don't know that an Bridgeport R9 collet is a thing. Hopefully that is a typo and it is R8.

That is a great mill at the right price. The power feed on X is a nice addition. However, lots of red flags there. The pictures ****, and there is no mention of condition or tooling.

3 Ph means you will need a VFD to run it. That actually can be a good thing, because it means speed is infinitely variable. However it is additional complexity and cost. Do you have power available to run it?

That is not a small or light machine. Do you have room for it?

The mill could be between 20 and 60 years old. I could be brand new or it could be a paper weight. Can you evaluate the condition appropriately? There are plenty of YouTube videos to help you.

If I was in the market and local I would definitely check it out.

 

[Gore]

You hit the nail on the head...and this is also why I want to stick to new. I am not too proud to say that I know 2 things about mills: jack and ****. With new I don't need to be overly concerned with condition...thanks to a warranty...and I don't have to stress about whether the info is correct, thanks to customer service. Also, I'm not sure of the amp draw on something like this...but I have a 30A breaker/plug wired for my compressor and welder...don't know if that's sufficient (minus the 3 phase aspect). I can always redo that circuit with heavier duty stuff if need be. Also, yes it's huge...yuge. I've been fighting the battle in my 2 car of maintaining space for a car...although I've never parked a car in there steadily since I've owned the house lol. This would make it a dedicated workshop essentially.

 

[gte718p]

A dedicate 30 amp should be sufficient.

Honestly I would say go with the Seig Mini mill. You can find out if you enjoy machine work and have the patience for it at a reasonable price. That Bridgeport can easily destroy as much tooling while you learn cover the cost of the Seig. The Seig is not as capable but more forgiving.

As you learn about the limitations of the mini mill you will learn how to evaluate mills in general. The Seig community is really beginner friendly and there are lots of good information about them out there.

 

[Gore]

Is Sieg somewhat of a generic term at this point given the amount of clone mills?

 

[gte718p]

Is Sieg somewhat of a generic term at this point given the amount of clone mills?

Sieg is the OEM for most of the mini mills. Several other companies make clones, but they are generally still referred to as Sieg mills as it would take an expert to spot the differences. They are sold under the HF, Grizzley, Enco, Little Machineshop, brand names. If you go on Alibaba and order 100 of them they will stick your brand name on them, paint them your color, and let you choose from a couple of base options.

Right now little machine shop has their upgraded mini mill on sale for less then HF. That is what I would start with. They are not generally the cheapest, but they are good people who stand behind what they sell. For a beginner, I think that has value.

After you get it, the first thing I would do is a DRO. If you are into electronics, I highly recommend building one of the:

http://www.yuriystoys.com/p/android-dro.html

Or just get some Iguaging scales off Flea bay. With that mill, the DRO, and some practice you will be well on your way to making AR lowers.

 

[Gore]

The search contiues...I'm sure to no one's surprise I haven't bought one yet. A new wrinkle has developed, a family member is selling a Microlux (Micro Mark) mini...and I can get it for potentially $500. Given the time I've had to reconsider this plan, I will be going low budget on this first mill, with the hopes that any tooling or accessories can be transferred to a new mill at a later date if I choose to upgrade.

I see the Hitorque from lms as the gold standard for my price range...and this Microlux, the HF, and the Sieg as other contenders. Does the lms mill justify the cost difference?