Best cheap torque wrench?

[american21]

I have 20 store credit it at lowes. Would you spend 40 cash on kobalt or is the husky that much better? I like the 1/2 kobalt cause it goes from 20 to 250 so I could get that a 3/8 adaptor and a 1/4 torque wrench going from 3lb and 17 lb from husky and it seems like Id be set

 

[american21]

Most things I work on are 1/4 or 3/8 once a year I come across a 1/2 need. It's okay to use socket drive adapters with torque wrenches? I've never cared about torquing lug nuts put some never seize on them and go about tight as I can with a 4 way never had a problem

 

[Shootingblanks]

For items where precision is critical, like head bolts, I do not use a cheap torque wrench. My Snapon torque wrench is used for that.

However, I use my 1/2 HF torque wrench for lug nuts and it has clicked on the same settings as my 1/2 Craftsman torque wrench. However, my Craftsman is an older one and the plastic dial lock setting cracked. I've seen Craftsman on sale for half of what I originally paid for the older unit.

I should test the HF settings using my Snapon, just for shits and giggles. But comparing a $450-500 torque wrench to a $10 should be sacrilegious. Just like using my Snapon to use for lug nuts. Just as long as they are close is fine for me.

 

[woody 73]

I can see you need more help American 21, I posted you my answer in post #2 but now that I see you have posted some new information maybe I can help you out a little better.

First off Husky is only made in the USA in the( 3/8 & 1/2) size torque wrench; the 1/4 torque wrench is made in Taiwan.

Second since money is of concern and you have a $20.00 lowes credit get the lowes Torque wrench and you will be happy in the end.

 

[Davefr]

I have 20 store credit it at lowes. Would you spend 40 cash on kobalt or is the husky that much better? I like the 1/2 kobalt cause it goes from 20 to 250 so I could get that a 3/8 adaptor and a 1/4 torque wrench going from 3lb and 17 lb from husky and it seems like Id be set

I would not use a 1/2" 250 ft lb torque wrench w/3/8" adapter for lower values like where your 1/4" leaves off. Torque wrenches are most accurate in the mid to upper end of their range.

I've found that 3/8" is the "sweat spot" where values are the most critical and that's where I'd focus on getting a high quality torque wrench.

About the only thing I use 1/2" for is lug nuts. If that's the same for you then the HF 1/2" wrench might be OK so you can sink your money into a high quality 3/8" wrench.

My $.02 worth.

 

[MattPSC]

I've found that 3/8" is the "sweat spot" where values are the most critical and that's where I'd focus on getting a high quality torque wrench.

Eww.

 

[Mooky]

Torque wrenches are most accurate in the mid to upper end of their range.

In an ISO certified environment, torque wrench calibration is done at three points. 10%, 50%, 90% of full span. Three pulls at each point. Any failure +/- 3% or 5% (depending on the standards), the tool is adjusted. Another failure, rebuild, another discard.

These are significantly more expensive tools, but the notion of a sweet spot is not valid. In my plant, Mountz are standard, existing Snap On, and CDI are repaired, Protos are retired on the first failure.

 

[crab]

The trouble with cheap tools is they are cheap tools. A lot of fasteners are torque to stretch now, a torque wrench really needs to be accurate especially 3/8s and 1/4 inch drive. When your talking in. lbs. it's a must. I'll stick with S.O..

 

[Farmall450]

If you're considering using it on cars, you might want 1/2". Lugnuts are the most torqued things on them. I have a trusty HF in the garage and a nice Proto downstairs in a constant environment. I use the HF 99% of the time because I'm too lazy to go get the Proto.

 

[SantaAna12]

In an ISO certified environment, torque wrench calibration is done at three points. 10%, 50%, 90% of full span. Three pulls at each point. Any failure +/- 3% or 5% (depending on the standards), the tool is adjusted. Another failure, rebuild, another discard.

These are significantly more expensive tools, but the notion of a sweet spot is not valid. In my plant, Mountz are standard, existing Snap On, and CDI are repaired, Protos are retired on the first failure.

"Mountz"

Thanks for that. Bookmarked

http://www.mountztorque.com/

If anyone else is interested.

 

[Mooky]

"Mountz"

Thanks for that. Bookmarked

http://www.mountztorque.com/

If anyone else is interested.

Very good site. Many technical papers and descriptive articles on the processes and tools.

Geared toward the aerospace, automotive manufacturing and automated assembly industries. Their tools aren't the sexiest, but very accurate and repeatable.

The test stands are first class. For the hell of it, I ran all of my personal torque wrenches through our stand at work, a few minor calibration adjustments were needed. A 30+ year old Craftsman beam style passed at 5% tolerance. Snap Ons were calibrated to 3%. In the real world, on vehicles that have been around the block a few times, 3% is much more than adequate.

 

[american21]

Got myself the 3/8 husky nice quality indeed and a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter I can't seem to even torque over 85lb anyways can't pull that hard so this is good for me possible get a 1/4 later on for the 0 to 20lb range

 

[espyking83]

depends what you're using it for. Wheel lugs? Hard to beat the hf 9.99 one. Engine building? A flex beam style, probably. Accurate and cheap, just need the room and visibility to use it.

this.

 

[Treeman]

Got myself the 3/8 husky nice quality indeed and a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter I can't seem to even torque over 85lb anyways can't pull that hard so this is good for me possible get a 1/4 later on for the 0 to 20lb range

You did good choosing the Husky. It is made by JS Technologies of Marietta, Georgia. They used to make the U.S. made Craftsman. You will see that your Husky looks the same as the Gearwrench (former KD), NAPA, Armstrong, and others also made by JS.

Remember that your wrench is only calibrated to be accurate at a minimum of 20% of its scale, even if the markings go lower. That 1/2 inch 250 Ft. lb. wrench is only good down to 50 ft. lbs, not the 20 the scale goes to.

You state you can't pull more than 85 ft. lb.. A longer 1/2 in wrench makes it easier to pull more. That's why most people need at least three wrenches to cover all the spreads. Trying to pull your shorter wrench to the maximum 100 ft. lb. is one source of possible error as you grunt and struggle, pulling "off line". Keep that in mind.

Remember to always store your wrench at it's lowest setting in order for the spring to stay in calibration better.

Don't use your wrench to loosen bolts. Loosening torque can be much greater and can result in wrench damage.

Study the principles of torque. Using torque (turning force/friction) to measure bolt tension (stretch) is very crude. Variables in fasteners (thread condition, etc.) can easily cause +/- 30% errors (an accepted engineering value).

Have fun!

 

[apdxyk]

I was surprised by the results also, it clicked correctly EVERY TIME! We weren't torquing on wheels either, all the work was under the hood inside the engine. I felt so confident on this unit, after testing it I used the HF for the job while the SnapOn was left sitting on the bench.

You (unknowingly, of course) just started a nationwide movement. Later, marketplace historians will call it a fad.. Ever heard of Metrology? Metrological variation? You are not the first one, who thinks he has just discovered what the market missed. Nothing personal, most of us fell for similar traps before.

 

[brouser01]

Hmm. Metrology is a very broad field, please be a little more specific/precise on & to your point.[emoji3][emoji57]