Best Combo Wrenches?

[PretendMechanic]

Regarding the open ended side.

Other than Snap On's Flank Drive Plus and Wright's WrightGrip 2.0, are there any other major contenders?

I don't want to pay Snap On's pricing, and do prefer matte/satin finished tools.

Would have already decided on the Wright Tool WrightGrips but I see a lot of complaints about length. Is the shorter length that much of an issue?

Don't really want to chase a discontinued used set, but curious if the original WrightGrip "1.0" gripped better? What exactly is the difference between the original and 2.0 wrenches?

Is there a magical well-priced high quality long pattern combo wrench with good anti slip design in a matte finish? That would be exactly what I'm after, but I have a feeling I'm going to have to compromise.

I don't care too much about damaging the fastener, rather that than have it rounded off in a situation where I can't get a 6 point socket over it.

Do want the closed end 12 point side to function well also, as long as it's not garbage it should be fine.

I'm done with cheap slipping and spreading wrenches.

 

[buckwheat_la]

Search is your friend here. With grip features, Williams Super Combos are very nice. Carlyle wrenches are good value too. Smooth jaws, hard to go wrong with Tekton (so I have heard) and Gearwrench (although some people complain about them)

 

[MarineScott]

I ended up with the Snap On flank drive plus, but only paid $288. I looked at different brands, Matco, Mac, Gearwrench and wasn't satisfied. You can find them on ebay both new and used, just have to watch. I do use mine professionally.

 

[Zewnten]

I was looking into this as well and unfortunately no one that I know of makes a long pattern satin grip with no slip open end. So I settled for a used set of Snap-on and buffed the chrome to a rougher finish.

 

[uncwstudent]

Matte finish you say??? Long pattern you sayyy??? ANTI SLIP??? You don't have to compromise.

Check out Proto wrenches. Just bought a set that was matte, long pattern, and has anti-slip (also made in the USA). A 10 piece set was about $115 at Zoro with 20% off coupon (SNOWY2 I believe was the code). Some cash back sites give money back on Zoro too.

Link for the set I bought is here: https://www.zoro.com/proto-combination-wrench-set-metric-10-pcs-j1200mhasd/i/G5909388/

http://www.protoindustrial.com/en/i...Metric-Combination-ASD-Wrench-Set---6-Point-/

These are for the six points, which I prefer. 12 pt is a few more bucks.

 

[Strouty]

If you want satin finish, go with the wrightgrips and be done with it. I have Snap On xl flank drive plus wrenches, wrightgrip 1.0 wrenches, and Proto ratcheting wrenches. Never really have an issue with length, unless it is the wrench is too long and won’t fit in an area.

 

[dr_clyde]

My wrenches are all Snap-On, SO FD+, Wrightgrip 1.0, Mac Knuckle Saver and a few odds and ends from SK and Matco. I've used about every brand commonly available and these are my preferred wrench.

I really, really like the Wright wrenches, and my only gripe is they are occasionally too thick to fit in a tight spot. The SO fits fine, but the beams are thinner and more square.

I would recommend Wright or Snap-on based on my experience. Choose whatever beam and head profile fits your preference. SO has way more length options, and the Wrights are beyond heavy duty.

 

[Davefr]

Regarding the open ended side.

Other than Snap On's Flank Drive Plus and Wright's WrightGrip 2.0, are there any other major contenders?

I don't want to pay Snap On's pricing, and do prefer matte/satin finished tools.

Would have already decided on the Wright Tool WrightGrips but I see a lot of complaints about length. Is the shorter length that much of an issue?

Get the Wright's. They're not that short and they do come in satin. They feel much nicer then SO and are a fraction of the price.

 

[PretendMechanic]

See, that's the thing. I actually never had a wrench too short issue also, but I've had a wrench that was too long screw me quite a few times.

Read that lots of people didn't like the length of the WrightGrips and was worried there was something I'm missing.

All the comments so far are about the original WrightGrip, how does the 2.0 compare? Does it grip just as much, or was it redesigned to to do less damage to fasteners, and therefore have less grip?

I do like that the WrightGrips are known to be super heavy duty, I often take a hammer to my wrench, I know I'm not supposed to but it works for me.

The Proto set looks nice, I do like the 6 point closed end. Wish I knew earlier about the Zoro code, just ordered 2 Williams driver sets.

Does the Proto come close to the Williams and Snap on when it comes to the ASD design? At the end of the day, that's the most important factor for me.

 

[Strouty]

I am not a fan of the Proto ASD, I prefer the wrightgrip and snap on. As far as 1.0 versus 2.0, not a clue what the difference is.

 

[JVB]

I was in the same boat and went wright. Overall very happy with the set and my only complaint is that 1 came not marked 2.0. I am very picky but besides the 2.0 marking the open ends look very similar. I think for a USA made set they are a tough value to beat and have a nice fit feel and finish to them.

If I was to go cheaper the channelock and Carlyle sets have good reviews but to add in individual wrenchs to get to the size set of the wright you end up less than 50$ a set more for the wright .

For ultra budget beater set or leave in the truck set the tekton at under 50$ a set are pretty impressive . They do not have any anti slip or grip features but again for price to value these are the ultimate value .

Again after all of this I chose wright and would not change my mind knowing what I know now.

 

[PretendMechanic]

I am not a fan of the Proto ASD, I prefer the wrightgrip and snap on. As far as 1.0 versus 2.0, not a clue what the difference is.

Do tell, why do you not like the Proto ASD?

 

[Strouty]

They are not as grabby, seems like they slip easy in comparison. The wrightgrip and the snap on are very grabby (snap on more so), you need to think about this when using them, especially with a fastener you don't want to mark up. I have six point non flank drive plus wrenches for fancy hardware.

 

[M6erfan]

If you live in the rust belt you want aggressive teeth on the open end, warmer/non salt climates, not needed as much

 

[PretendMechanic]

Rust belt is an understatement, more like at the bottom of the ocean.

Strouty, is your experience with the original WrightGrip or the 2.0?

Does anyone else share Strouty's opinion? That the Proto ASD slips easily compared to WrightGrip and Snap on FDP?

How much more grip would you say the open end on the Snap on have in comparison to the WrightGrip? Is it close or is the Snap On much better?

Was hoping the Protos would be comparable, was leaning that way due to the 6 point box end.

 

[jsmeece]

Rust belt is an understatement, more like at the bottom of the ocean.

Strouty, is your experience with the original WrightGrip or the 2.0?

Does anyone else share Strouty's opinion? That the Proto ASD slips easily compared to WrightGrip and Snap on FDP?

How much more grip would you say the open end on the Snap on have in comparison to the WrightGrip? Is it close or is the Snap On much better?

Was hoping the Protos would be comparable, was leaning that way due to the 6 point box end.

I think you need to determine which one is more important to you.
The ASD open end or the 6 point box end.

 

[BroncoAZ]

I was in the same boat and went wright. Overall very happy with the set and my only complaint is that 1 came not marked 2.0. I am very picky but besides the 2.0 marking the open ends look very similar. I think for a USA made set they are a tough value to beat and have a nice fit feel and finish to them.

If I was to go cheaper the channelock and Carlyle sets have good reviews but to add in individual wrenchs to get to the size set of the wright you end up less than 50$ a set more for the wright .

For ultra budget beater set or leave in the truck set the tekton at under 50$ a set are pretty impressive . They do not have any anti slip or grip features but again for price to value these are the ultimate value .

Again after all of this I chose wright and would not change my mind knowing what I know now.

I just made the same choice for the same reasons on the Wrightgrip 2.0. I went with chrome instead of the satin, no major defects in my chrome.

The Wright are 1/2-3/4” longer than my Craftsman RP wrenches in all but the 1”+ sizes.

 

[Strouty]

No experience with 2.0

Snap On and Wright grip are pretty equal in my opinion, Snap On has a slight advantage if I was to say anything.

 

[Xcursion88]

Get the Wright's. They're not that short and they do come in satin. They feel much nicer then SO and are a fraction of the price.

SK IN the picture is the std length. You need to specify long version. Their long version is about the length as the others in your picture.

 

[Xcursion88]

Rust belt is an understatement, more like at the bottom of the ocean.

Strouty, is your experience with the original WrightGrip or the 2.0?

Does anyone else share Strouty's opinion? That the Proto ASD slips easily compared to WrightGrip and Snap on FDP?

How much more grip would you say the open end on the Snap on have in comparison to the WrightGrip? Is it close or is the Snap On much better?

Was hoping the Protos would be comparable, was leaning that way due to the 6 point box end.

Rust belt is an understatement, more like at the bottom of the ocean.

Strouty, is your experience with the original WrightGrip or the 2.0?

Does anyone else share Strouty's opinion? That the Proto ASD slips easily compared to WrightGrip and Snap on FDP?NO. Many O' wrench did just fine with fasteners for many many years with no extra (xyz) in the open end INCLUDING Snap on. I've a drawer full of some older wrenches from SO with no gimmick in the open end.

How much more grip would you say the open end on the Snap on have in comparison to the WrightGrip? Is it close or is the Snap On much better?good lord. See above. Who cares. Neither one grips like a Six point socket.

Was hoping the Protos would be comparable, was leaning that way due to the 6 point box end. why? You will be cursing that decision when you find a time you can't use the Six point wrench because it hits on something because you don't have 16.8 degrees of swing available to even get it in the fastener.

My advice.....

Get any "good wrench" that feels good to your hand in a 12 point variety. Use the 12 point for the rare times that nothing else will get on the fastener clearance wise.

Don't get caught up in that open end flank drive, overdrive, highway drive, Sunday afternoon drive horseshit...
Get a quality wrench that feels good to you and start using them. For speed and proper loosening and tightening you're gonna use a ratchet and a Six point socket.

Good luck.

 

[Strouty]

So you have no experience with the gimmick open ends? If so, please stop posting in this thread. If you have pertinent info, then post it. Where are you from, have you ever dealt with rust? I mean rust, not like you see on a car in Arizona.

 

[Xcursion88]

If you live in the rust belt you want aggressive teeth on the open end, warmer/non salt climates, not needed as much

I'm in the midst of the rust belt and fasteners don't get any open end of anything on them unless it's a jam or something else low on the torque need.

Six point socket brotha can't ever be wrong. Once in a blue moon you can't use a socket...nor a 6 point wrench due to limited arc.

I just did sway bar bushing on a Lexus RX300. The back bolt had no clearance for a socket extension ratchet combo. The bolt head was sitting at such an angle that a Six point wrench couldbt get on it as it just hit everything.

What worked? 12 point wrench.


Just remember something else....something that requires a lot of torque will have decent clearance. Small fasteners can't handle high torque stress like bigger fasteners can. Bigger fasteners need in fhe least enough room to get the fastener in place and tightened from the factory.

Six point sockets always on the good old rusty bolts

 

[jsmeece]

...something that requires a lot of torque will have decent clearance.

I call BS. Most engines and transmission are fully assembled before they are placed in the car/truck during the manufacturing production line. Even suspensions are sometime pre-assembled before hand.

 

[Strouty]

As much as I don't want to post these links, I am not going to do a video myself. I have found that the video experience is similar, the ASD from Proto doesn't grab as well as the others from my experience and you asked for input, that is mine.

Proto ASD ratchet wrench review

Wrightgrip 1.0 review

Wrightgrip/Snap On Flankdrive plus

 

[Strouty]

Six point sockets always on the good old rusty bolts

That is great, but I have rusty stuff that you can't use anything but an open ended wrench.

 

[Xcursion88]

So you have no experience with the gimmick open ends? If so, please stop posting in this thread. If you have pertinent info, then post it. Where are you from, have you ever dealt with rust? I mean rust, not like you see on a car in Arizona.

Western Pennsylvania. Want some salt? We just got more snow today so I'll attach some to this post for ya.

I own lots of wrenches with the gimmick in the open end.

SK X frames, SO flank drive plus, etc...i also have lots of wrenches without any gimmick in the open end inckuding Snap on, SK, Mac, Craftsmen....

The rust is bad here...very. Those fasteners just don't see an open ended anything. Because no matter how they bite they still aren't a Six point. If the head is hogged up with too much rust for a Six point they get a blast of air from about 180 psi to clean it up.

I'm not making fun of the gimmick it just shouldn't be the reason for said purchase. If you feel the need for something to have extra grip I echo again there is nothing that grips better than a Six point.

I've done this for many decades and never grabbed a wrench based on the open end having extra grip. In this state it's six point or death.

Adapters, swivels, extensions, wobbles...if there's a will there's a way.

Lastly, SO and SK for many years had an open and a box end wrench with no grip help.
They worked just fine

 

[Strouty]

Adapters, swivels, extensions, wobbles...if there's a will there's a way.

Brake lines, hydraulic fittings, bolts with an obstruction making it too tight to get a socket onto, I am sure others can think of good reasons to need an open end, seems like your experience is blinding you to the plethora of other uses for an open end wrench, especially one with grip.

 

[Xcursion88]

Brake lines, hydraulic fittings, bolts with an obstruction making it too tight to get a socket onto, I am sure others can think of good reasons to need an open end, seems like your experience is blinding you to the plethora of other uses for an open end wrench, especially one with grip.

Brake lines, hydraulic fittings, good line wrenches!!! The fact you're using open ended wrenches instead of line wrenches on those fittings tell me everything I need to know. if the fittings are too bad then the brake line itself is ready to split some place and needs replaced more times than not those situations call for cutting the line close to the fitting and using a Six point socket on it. bolts with an obstruction making it too tight to get a socket onto, obstructions? Yep...which can also obstruct an open ended wrench plus the bolt head needs to be lying just right if the obstruction is too much. Sometimes your only shot is a twelve point box side because obstruction is too muchI am sure others can think of good reasons to need an open end, seems like your experience is blinding you to the plethora of other uses for an open end wrench, especially one with grip.

it seems to me you'd rather risk doing something unsure than taking extra steps and just do it right.


How on earth did the industry ever survive before all this.

My goodness. How was anything ever repaired before Mr. Bitey came long.

Amazing

 

[dr_clyde]

If you work on more than just passenger cars you'll find a whole other world of things that use hex based fasteners.

Working in industrial maintenance had exposed me to more corroded and stuck fasteners than I care to remember. Sure, we use a socket or box end whenever possible. But there are lots of tight and confined spaces where an open end wrench is the ONLY way.

The SO flank drive and Wright grip open end has saved my **** when the chips were down and we needed to get a machine up and running FAST.

I own two full sets of SO wrenches. Regular open ends for clean work and FD+ for when I run into some nasty bolts.

 

[mikester]

Ive got a few different brands of combination wrenches. As strange as this might sound Ive got quite a lot of the older Husky polished wrenches from HD and I have to say theyve held up very well. I also have a bunch of Proto professional, Armstrong and Snap Ons.
The early Huskys are much nicer than the current ones they sell now. The open ends are better shaped and a bit smaller.

 

[Loscaldazar]

How on earth did the industry ever survive before all this.

My goodness. How was anything ever repaired before Mr. Bitey came long.

Amazing

Yes, because you've worked on everything there is and experienced every type of repair and know definitively that there isn't a possible need for these despite several other very experienced people telling you there is a use for them. The world also survived without computers but that doesn't mean using them for cancer/protein folding research is useless.

These open ends are useful for front end alignments on northern rusted vehicles where a socket and box end simply can't be used. I've spread many traditional open ends from reputable brands. The "bitey" open ends not only have the extra grip from the serrations but are also designed to be stronger and not spread as soon as traditional open ends.

The channellock/Carlyle (and soon to be harbor freight icon) wrenches are great. They are comfortable and cheap. I spent about $200 on a full set of the metric and SAE channellock versions.

 

[Strouty]

Sometimes the job will require a totally custom wrench because nothing will work. I had a kid helping me when we were swapping an injection pump, he was always asking me why I have so many of the same size tools? When we were done, he said he now understood why I had so many different styles of the same size wrench. So yes, if I can use a six point socket or wrench, I will, but the "gimmick" open ends have helped me out a lot and I wouldn't give them up.

 

[BFHtime]

I had to post an experience I had with my flank drive plus wrenches. I was taking apart an exhaust, when the nuts were corroded on the up side of the hex, and the down side ( toward the bolt head against a flange), was not corroded much. I tried using my flank drive sockets, which usually work pretty well, but the upside crumbled away. I then went down to the next size metric or standard, it was a while ago, so I don’t remember the exact sizes. The nut further rounded now looking like a ring on the up part and a hex on the down part. I figured my next move would be a turbo socket. I figured I would give the flank drive plus a shot, before digging out the extraction team. I was very surprised how much better the flank drive plus grabbed the nut. It was able to hold onto what was left of the hex at the bottom and get it off no problem. I wished I would have tried it sooner.

I hammered the second and third sizes of sockets I tried before putting on the ratchet to make sure the socket had a descent bite. This may have contributed to outer part of the nut breaking, but in my experience when I hammer a socket on it usually grabs so well that I have to punch the nut out, after getting it off.

Any way that is a good experience I had with the FD+. They are the older ones, not the newer ones, but I think the open ends are the same, with different box ends.
Buy what is right for you.

 

[Strouty]

If we are talking just open end experience and technically this isn't I thread derail, if you want a grabby open end, look at the astro flank bite wrenches (sockets too).

My experience with turbo sockets is that they can and do machine the remaining hex into a rounded mess that just gets smaller ever time you step down a size.

 

[Wamsutta]

Rust belt is an understatement, more like at the bottom of the ocean.

If you're in the rust belt and encounter rusted fasteners often, then there's nothing better than FD+. They will turn nuts that have no corners on them. They are designed to PULL the nut into the throat of the open end.

Myself, I prefer smooth open ends. The FD+ will catch on the corners of perfectly fine nuts and slow down my wrench turning of nuts that are in good shape.

 

[87FoRunner]

Carlyle.

 

[Yarpo]

Don't really want to chase a discontinued used set, but curious if the original WrightGrip "1.0" gripped better? What exactly is the difference between the original and 2.0 wrenches?

I don't imagine they would nerf their own wrenches going forward, seems counter intuitive.

WrightGrips in Matte would be great, USA made and they're very affordable.

Myself, I prefer smooth open ends. The FD+ will catch on the corners of perfectly fine nuts and slow down my wrench turning of nuts that are in good shape.

I noticed this too, forgot what I was doing...but noticed I was struggling to turn something quickly that shouldn't have given me issue

 

[M6erfan]

That is great, but I have rusty stuff that you can't use anything but an open ended wrench.

This^^^

 

[turnthewrench 2.0]

That is great, but I have rusty stuff that you can't use anything but an open ended wrench.

I remember rounding a couple of bolts in my old Cherokee back in the day. Didn't know anything about flank drives or grippy wrenches but, boy! How I wish I had one in those days... and I live in Florida.


Proto ASD is fine, but the design of the Wright and SO is simply superior. For ShowRoom Bolts, I use Stahlwille

 

[Xcursion88]

If you work on more than just passenger cars you'll find a whole other world of things that use hex based fasteners.

Working in industrial maintenance had exposed me to more corroded and stuck fasteners than I care to remember. Sure, we use a socket or box end whenever possible. But there are lots of tight and confined spaces where an open end wrench is the ONLY way.

The SO flank drive and Wright grip open end has saved my **** when the chips were down and we needed to get a machine up and running FAST.

I own two full sets of SO wrenches. Regular open ends for clean work and FD+ for when I run into some nasty bolts.

Many types of industry

Been there.

Lets get something straight. I'm not suggesting the flank drive plus doesn't grip better than non....

However...

Many years went by without using that technology. How could that be?
Well it was done using the right tools for the job.

Want to talk big fasteners? OK. I've some inch plus Snap on wrenches from pre FDP days....1 1/8, 1 1/4, and so on and so on. SK and SO sockets to match. The wrenches start getting so thick at that point the flex is non existent. At least as much a human can push or pull.

My family has a stone Quarry business...you want to talk about some nasty fasteners!! Trucks, crushers, whatever...filthy, nasty etc.
We got along just fine using old school SO and SK wrenches.

What got us along again was using the right tools for the right job.

If someone really wants a SO or wright wrench...great. then you will get the extra feature in the open end.

IMO if you are using the right tools a standard wrench without that feature has worked in all types of industry for a long long time and worked well.

If it feels good in your hand...that is my priority #1. Lemgth, thickness finish are all factors.

Buy what feels good to you.