Best Combo Wrenches?

[Strouty]

Just so people know, after 3/4” there really is no need for flank drive plus.

 

[dr_clyde]

I feel like the argument of "how did we ever get by in the past" is a poor argument for ignoring new technology.

We didn't use it then because it hadn't been invented yet.

That's how innovation and technology works. We move on.

Are anti-slip open end wrench designs required for use on rusty or corroded fasteners? No, there's other ways. Obviously we got by before they existed. But they make the work faster, safer, and more efficient. Why would you not want that?

It's like asking why we have things like impact wrenches and air ratchets. You can absolutely work on cars and equipment without them. But they make the work faster, easier and safer.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Carlyle.

The danger of the carlyle design, is that if it slips on a rusty bolt it does quite a bit of damage. It's also a poor choice for soft fittings, like tube nuts or bleeder valves. Not that such applications are peak "open end wrench" territory, but something to keep in mind.


IME Wright grip has competed well with snap on. I generally find that an inner tie rod of 13/14mm will shred the corners off before they break free with my wright grips; IF it's all rusted and stuck. If it's seized, teeth on the open ends are irrelevant, no wrench will move it before the fastener itself yields. Some will need to be glowing red, then quenched, and this repeated several times before the jam nut will even move.

I've been considering swapping out my Carlyles at work and looking for some Williams super combos or using my pre-tooth Proto set from home.

 

[Strouty]

The danger of the carlyle design, is that if it slips on a rusty bolt it does quite a bit of damage. It's also a poor choice for soft fittings, like tube nuts or bleeder valves. Not that such applications are peak "open end wrench" territory, but something to keep in mind.

My Snap On flare wrenches have very nice open ends for that exact reason.

 

[isuhunter]

Would have already decided on the Wright Tool WrightGrips but I see a lot of complaints about length. Is the shorter length that much of an issue?

Don't really want to chase a discontinued used set, but curious if the original WrightGrip "1.0" gripped better? What exactly is the difference between the original and 2.0 wrenches?

I have the Wrights 1.0 and 2.0 I can’t see a difference between them. When I bought a new metric set form HJE they came mixed with 1.0 and 2.0.












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[WittHay]

I have a complete set of SAE and metric Proto ASD satin combination wrenches. I bought them for the length and finish. The open end works good on hydraulic fittings and is strong enough for the back end of impact wrenches.

If I was working on more automotive stuff, my pick would be the Snap-on flank drive plus for tie rod adjustment. The stuff i do i just heat the nuts till red when seized and put a old wrench or the Protos on while the nut is still hot.

 

[Wamsutta]

You guys that like Wright combo wrenches would like Cornwell.

Similar beam profile and available in extra long.

 

[BFHtime]

If you're in the rust belt and encounter rusted fasteners often, then there's nothing better than FD+. They will turn nuts that have no corners on them. They are designed to PULL the nut into the throat of the open end.

Myself, I prefer smooth open ends. The FD+ will catch on the corners of perfectly fine nuts and slow down my wrench turning of nuts that are in good shape.

I agree these FD+ wrenches are not my goto set. When you get a good pull on a nut or blog in the begging of breaking it loose, the teeth dig in and increase resistance taking the wrench off the fastener. They also leave bite marks in the fastener, so I consider these outcomes when I use these wrenches.

 

[87FoRunner]

The danger of the carlyle design, is that if it slips on a rusty bolt it does quite a bit of damage. It's also a poor choice for soft fittings, like tube nuts or bleeder valves. Not that such applications are peak "open end wrench" territory, but something to keep in mind.


IME Wright grip has competed well with snap on. I generally find that an inner tie rod of 13/14mm will shred the corners off before they break free with my wright grips; IF it's all rusted and stuck. If it's seized, teeth on the open ends are irrelevant, no wrench will move it before the fastener itself yields. Some will need to be glowing red, then quenched, and this repeated several times before the jam nut will even move.

I've been considering swapping out my Carlyles at work and looking for some Williams super combos or using my pre-tooth Proto set from home.

For automotive use, I find my Bahco wrenches too bulky for tight jobs where as the Carlyles are more like my Snap on flank drive in ergonomics. They are amazing wrenches but like my SKs, just not up to par for that “doing everything with one set of wrenches,” use. Carlyle is a great affordable option. The “regular series” doesn’t have the flank bite, the long does.

I reckon for the sensitive fasteners, he already has some craftsman raised panel. doesn’t everybody?