Best DMM for AC work?

[signcrafter]

I have a fluke 87 for automotive work but would like to pick up another DMM more for AC work around the house and shop. Most electricians and HVAC guys I see have a fluke that has the test leads but also an amp clamp built in. I would like to pick one up to keep with my electrical tools and to have as a backup. If the amp clamp part does Ac and DC the better. What is the right fluke model to get for what I want? Thanks.

 

[captaindiode]

Take a look at the Klein CL700. I have a Fluke 87 but I like the Klein as well. The ampclamp is AC or DC and it has a low Z voltage mode which is good for troubleshooting (minimizes phantom voltage). It also does temperature. It is on sale right now too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CU7DUDE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[signcrafter]

What about the cl800? According to what I'm reading the amp clamp on the cl700 is only AC. The cl800 is AC/DC amp clamp. Home depot has the cl800 in stock so I may just pick that up.

 

[SteadyC]

A good/cheap general unit is the Fluke T5-600

 

[Citation]

Since you already have a Fluke 87 I would suggest something less expensive for a second meter. The Uni-T UT210e (don't ignore the "e") is a great low cost clamp meter. It does low current DC work as well as typical clamp meter work. The 210e does AC and DC amps and as a 2A range (reads down to something like 1mA). Anyway, very good for dealing with lower current measurements.

 

[richfinn]

Another vote for the little Uni-T UT210e
it's a great compact little unit

For £45 it's been one of the most used diagnostic tools I've ever bought (automotive tech)

I love it, Fluke Clamp meters don't have as good a resolution on DC Amps unless you spend a lot of money.

 

[bwringer]

Some excellent recommendations here! I cannot overstate how useful a DC amp clamp can be; more expensive and somewhat harder to find, but when you need it, you really need it, and it can save a lot of time and disassembly.

I primarily do vehicle work, but then again I guess we all have vehicles...

The only situation where the lower accuracy of a DC amp clamp would make any difference is if you're chasing a very low current drain; something is on that shouldn't be on. And even then, as long as you can tell the difference between some drain and no drain, it can be pretty handy, and it probably doesn't matter whether the reading is 0.15 amp or 0.20 amp.

 

[signcrafter]

Thanks for the recommendations. I have a Uni-T thermal imager and it works great so I will pick up the UT210e and call it good. I have a high and low amp clamp for my fluke that I use for auto diagnostics so I do have the ability with those. But I was looking for a second all in one type unit mainly for around the house for electrical work. Last night was diagnosing a furnace not working and when I grabbed my electrical tool belt it reminded me that I have been wanting to add one of these all in one type meters to keep in the tool pouch for a while now and need to do it.

 

[welder4956]

Great, something else GJ has caused me to buy. I just ordered the UT210e for $55 on Amazon. Thanks guys.

 

[bonneyman]

My first clamp meter was a Johnstone unit. When it wore out I switched to MA-Line. A vendor sold me one for $60 at an open house in like 2002. Still have it. (The one with the red clamp). Model 12813

Clamp On Meters | MA Line

But honestly, toward the end of my career I started going old school analog, and found the old Amprobe "beetle meter" did most of the things i had to do just fine. It could take a 5 foot drop, would work in freezing weather, and no battery to go dead or leak and ruin the meter. I kept small separate meters for odd jobs like DC volts, ohms, and cap testing. IIRC there's several for sale in the classifieds from a forum member.

 

[captaindiode]

What about the cl800? According to what I'm reading the amp clamp on the cl700 is only AC. The cl800 is AC/DC amp clamp. Home depot has the cl800 in stock so I may just pick that up.

It is the CL800, not 700 for the DC amp clamp capability. My mistake.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

What about the cl800? According to what I'm reading the amp clamp on the cl700 is only AC. The cl800 is AC/DC amp clamp. Home depot has the cl800 in stock so I may just pick that up.

The CL800 is a great meter. I've had one for 6 years and it's served me well. I see the Uni-T UT210e has also been mentioned and I have one of those as well. I keep that one in my toolbox in the vehicle.

Either way, if you get a clamp meter definitely get one that has both AC & DC clamp use, especially if you're already doing automotive work.

 

[joel63]

My first clamp meter was a Johnstone unit. When it wore out I switched to MA-Line. A vendor sold me one for $60 at an open house in like 2002. Still have it. (The one with the red clamp). Model 12813

Clamp On Meters | MA Line

But honestly, toward the end of my career I started going old school analog, and found the old Amprobe "beetle meter" did most of the things i had to do just fine. It could take a 5 foot drop, would work in freezing weather, and no battery to go dead or leak and ruin the meter. I kept small separate meters for odd jobs like DC volts, ohms, and cap testing. IIRC there's several for sale in the classifieds from a forum member.

Analog will always be there for you.
I have 3 of those Amprobes: 2 RS-3's and 1 RS-1
I never worry about batteries.
The SIMPSON 260 series 2 is my all time multimeter. (Batteries, I have to worry about.)
I go back and forth between digital and analog. I can 't say why.
Usually I carry a digital and an analog as a backup.

 

[Jim greengo]

I have a fluke 87 for automotive work but would like to pick up another DMM more for AC work around the house and shop. Most electricians and HVAC guys I see have a fluke that has the test leads but also an amp clamp built in. I would like to pick one up to keep with my electrical tools and to have as a backup. If the amp clamp part does Ac and DC the better. What is the right fluke model to get for what I want? Thanks.

Fluke is just a name people get caught up in,I've been doing this since around 1970 and I've never owned a fluke meter.
My UEI clamp on meter has worked fine for me for a lot of years.
If my UEI gives up ill go to the supply house and buy another 1 to replace it.

 

[Aileron]

Fluke 902 for a clamp meter and us the 87 as a go to. At what i had in my service truck.

 

[bonneyman]

I've found that the local electronics shop has a shelf loaded with bins full of old analog meters. Someone will drop off a device to get repaired, and - after finding out the cost - decide to not do it. And they just leave the device. This store disassembles the things and throws any analog gauges into the bins and offers them for cheap. Just about any style and range you want. A smart guy could assemble a whole fleet of little gauges for not much cash.

Elliott Electronic Supply - Electronic Component Parts Supplier

Electronic Components

www.elliottelectronicsupply.com

 

[bonneyman]

Analog will always be there for you.
I have 3 of those Amprobes: 2 RS-3's and 1 RS-1
I never worry about batteries.
The SIMPSON 260 series 2 is my all time multimeter. (Batteries, I have to worry about.)
I go back and forth between digital and analog. I can 't say why.
Usually I carry a digital and an analog as a backup.

Got a Simpson, too. $10

Yeah, I switch back and forth between meters as well. At my last job I was almost all analog in my tools. A/C gauges, clamp meter, pocket thermometer, CO detector, continuity pen, palm-sized ohm meter. (Even used a paper map instead of GPS). The younger guys were freaking out!

 

[klassenl]

But honestly, toward the end of my career I started going old school analog, and found the old Amprobe "beetle meter" did most of the things i had to do just fine. It could take a 5 foot drop, would work in freezing weather, and no battery to go dead or leak and ruin the meter. I kept small separate meters for odd jobs like DC volts, ohms, and cap testing. IIRC there's several for sale in the classifieds from a forum member.

I have some analogue meters as well. They are great for certain tasks. My everyday clamp meter is a $100 Greenlee that I bought many years ago. I have more expensive meters but that's the one I like.

Beware it doesn't take long before you're a collector of old meters.

 

[dnschmidt]

Fieldpiece and Fluke appear to be the standard in the HVAC world which is almost all AC. In the old days Triplett and Simpson were the analog meter bomb and they must have made a million of them each before digital became a thing. In a lot of ways I trusted an analog meter a lot more than a digital readout.

 

[ItsNemo]

A good/cheap general unit is the Fluke T5-600

I have this meter, for just household electrical it's all you need but is rather basic. I also have a 287 logging meter and 325 AC/DC clamp.

For household electrical though, just keep using your 87 and grab the 325 since it's helpful for automotive too with the DC capable current clamp.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Take a look at the Klein CL700. I have a Fluke 87 but I like the Klein as well. The ampclamp is AC or DC and it has a low Z voltage mode which is good for troubleshooting (minimizes phantom voltage). It also does temperature. It is on sale right now too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CU7DUDE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Does it measure capacitance like on start and run capacitors ?

 

[jobo1004]

Does it measure capacitance like on start and run capacitors ?

The symbol that looks like this -|(- is for measuring capacitance.

 

[bonneyman]

Beware it doesn't take long before you're a collector of old meters.

Oh yeah. Because they still function.

You know it's bad when the wife send you to the store to pick up some pasta sauce and shredded cheese and what's in the bag when you get home are tools, camp fuel, and duct tape.

 

[Citation]

Oh yeah. Because they still function.

You know it's bad when the wife send you to the store to pick up some pasta sauce and shredded cheese and what's in the bag when you get home are tools, camp fuel, and duct tape.

Did you remember the sauce and cheese?

 

[SteadyC]

Fieldpiece SC640. Lots of features just a bit big to carry around. I end up using Amprobe pocket multimeter(PM51A) most of the time for controls/troubleshooting. This meter also measures capacitance. I have a lot of Fluke and Hioki meters as well. Use the pocket Amprobe the most lol.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The symbol that looks like this -|(- is for measuring capacitance.

Yes, but many meters will not test/read large motor start/run capacitors ?

I know what LoZ means, but how low is low ? I could not find that in the specs. IIRC, the old Simpson 260 was 20k ohms.

 

[bonneyman]

You know, I never tested a start cap with the cap function on the Fluke. Just never ran across a "bad" one that didn't have the top bulged and vent seal blown.

 

[Uofime]

Like most meter questions, in my experience the accessories matter more than the meter.
For HVAC you’ve got to have clamp and hook probes and a magnetic holder. One handed operation is key, clamp on common, probe clipped on jacket, poke around holding the meter checking voltages.

 

[bonneyman]

Like most meter questions, in my experience the accessories matter more than the meter.
For HVAC you’ve got to have clamp and hook probes and a magnetic holder. One handed operation is key, clamp on common, probe clipped on jacket, poke around holding the meter checking voltages.

I came across a DMM that had an audible read-out function, to specifically address the potential problem you speak of. When reading volts it would say the voltage out loud once it stabilized so you could keep your eyes on the meter tips. But I'll be darned if I can find a link now.

 

[bwringer]

WhyNotBoth.gif

I have an extremely cool digital/analog meter I inherited from my Dad. I don't know that I've ever seen anything like this before or since (there are a few no-name dual-display multimeters out there in the bowels of Amazon), but yep, there are occasions when being able to see the motion of the needle gives you valuable information that you don't get from numbers.

Here it is plugged into my power strip. Easiest way to show some sort of reading for a photo.

 

[bonneyman]

And bwringer for the win! That is the most unique hybrid multimeter I think I've seen.

Thanks - now I have another thing to watch for!

 

[Aileron]

I had a Trane 4 cylinder semi hermetic i had to use a simpson 260 across a dry contact switch. I had to watch for the needle jump, a digital wouldn't,t pick it up. I dont think i ever used it again but always kept it in my service truck,

 

[bonneyman]

I did come across this multimeter at an electronics surplus company. It doesn't do amps - no clamp - but it's cheap and is crammed full of other features. Nice design, too. They have an informative walk-thru video of the functions as well. Been seriously looking at grabbing one even though it's probably Chinese-made. FWIW

Digital Multimeter Pen Type

4 Digit/6000 count Pen style, True RMS digital multimeter with Auto/Manual Ranging, Flashlight & Auto Off 8 function, Backlit, .7 height LCD display. Includes: 5ft. Ground test lead, safety aligator clip, instructions & Protective pouch. Fuse Overload protection. CE listed; IEC 1010 Cat-III-600V...

www.mpja.com

 

[Rinspeed]

Fluke is just a name people get caught up in,I've been doing this since around 1970 and I've never owned a fluke meter.

Lol.

 

[Jim greengo]

Lol.

I can give a monkey a fancy fluke meter,it doesn't make him any better at fixing stuff.

 

[ItsNemo]

I can give a monkey a fancy fluke meter,it doesn't make him any better at fixing stuff.

When the Fluke meter is still working and accurate and able to make measurements in the right ranges, it sure will make him better at fixing stuff.

If your idea of a DMM is to probe to see if you have 120v AC or 12v DC or not (e.g. what most electricians/automotive people use their DMM's for), it's not like you really need a high end accurate meter for that.

 

[tester19]

Yea I love my Fluke 87V. I had others for a long time that worked fine but when I needed to replace one I finally had the money to buy a Fluke.
But I think it's a bit like Snap-On tools?
Buying expensive when less will do most of the time.
There is a safety factor to watch out for because cheap meter's can be very dangerous when used to measure lethal levels of A/V.

I know Fluke has a shock rating of 600V and 1000V. So far higher than anything I will ever work on. See if you can find a rating on your meter. They call it CAT II and CAT III sometimes.
.
.
.

 

[Citation]

I think this was a decent video on why Fluke cost what it does.

Certainly part of what Fluke brings to the table is rock solid confidence. My Fluke 27FM went out of warranty with the Regan admission yet it still works today and is still actuate.

 

[Jim greengo]

When the Fluke meter is still working and accurate and able to make measurements in the right ranges, it sure will make him better at fixing stuff.

If your idea of a DMM is to probe to see if you have 120v AC or 12v DC or not (e.g. what most electricians/automotive people use their DMM's for), it's not like you really need a high end accurate meter for that.

I use my meter for many things,but after all these years I'm smart enough to know what meter and tools I need to get the job done.

 

[redwrench60]

If all one does with a meter is make basic checks on voltage, continuity, resistance then a basic meter is fine. Nothing wrong with that. However, if you regularly get into a wider variety of AC and DC power, duty cycle controls and signals you’re going to want a rock solid trustworthy meter with lots of safety built in. A costly misdiagnosis from an un dependable meter on expensive equipment could be grounds for walking papers.