Best drill bit for drilling through a wrench?

[Exceller8]

I'm trying to drill two holes in a 2" combination wrench so I can use it as a door handle for my shop. I've tried just about every type of drill bit known to man and I can't get through it.

I even bought a $9 special heavy duty bit at HD and the wrench just laughed at it!

Help!!!

 

[Haukur]

Try a masonry drill bit. When HSS and cobalt drill bits lay down and cry then I usually finish the job with a masonry drill.

 

[rlitman]

I'd try a cobalt bit, turned slowly, under a bath of cutting oil. But I wouldn't expect easy results. I've machined chrome sockets before, and that is some seriously tough metal to cut.

The masonry bit is not a half bad idea, but most carbide tipped bits don't have a relief angle to get the carbide edge to cut metal.

 

[ddo]

How big of a hole are you drilling?

 

[Rico.]

You could always buy a spanner made out of powdered milk from a dollar shop. You could
probably get a hole through one of those by sneezing at it a bit too close. It would definitely
save you a fortune in drill bits and allot of sweat.

 

[wxm]

I've been using the small tip bits from the mill machine. Go slowly with cutting oil. Once you have the pilot hole, gradually increase the bit size... Good luck.

 

[zkling]

Hi Exceller8,

Can you post the specs of your setup (drill diameter, drill style, brand, RPM, down feed pressure, coolant used)? I assume you are using a drill press for these holes? Where are you having issues drilling (will it make a mark, drills half way through the hole, breaks drill bit)?

I have some experience in the aerospace industry, where we had to drill some obscure materials.

 

[rsanter]

Are you through the Crome even?
Take a carbide burr and grind a divot so you are through the Crome then go back to the drill bit

Bob

 

[619DioFan]

The dewalt cobalt bits I got from lowes have yet to let me down. eevn drill through an impact grade extension. no problem.

 

[Hafen_Kafer]

Slow RPM. Slooooow.

 

[larry_g]

Hi Exceller8,

Can you post the specs of your setup (drill diameter, drill style, brand, RPM, down feed pressure, coolant used)? I assume you are using a drill press for these holes? Where are you having issues drilling (will it make a mark, drills half way through the hole, breaks drill bit)?
.

X2 here, show us your setup and all the other stuff zkling asked. Without that information you get nothing but guesses at where the problem may lie.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[zkling]

Slow RPM. Slooooow.

This is a common misconception. Running too slow can cause the bit and material to overheat. In specific work hardening materials running slow will cause the material to get harder and the drill softer. Basically shooting yourself in the foot.

I think the drill press is the #1 most misunderstood tool in the shop. I always get a laugh reading the common fab forums on the net. Guys wanting to run drills at like 25RPM. Every material has a specific cutting speed that it properly cuts at.

 

[jjjrmx5]

Since most wrenches are forged, you need a HSS bit, a variable speed drill and lots o lube.

Centerpunch, Drill 1/8" hole then move up slowly with lots o lube.

As hafen stated, it's about patience. Too much pressure will dull the bit and too much speed will fry it.

Center punch and start. Slowly.
Patience.

Work with armour and you realize quickly how the process usurps speed of a job to get done when trying to go too fast.

I think the drill press is the #1 most misunderstood tool in the shop. I always get a laugh reading the common fab forums on the net. Guys wanting to run drills at like 25RPM. Every material has a specific cutting speed that it properly cuts at.

OP said nothing about a drill press.

If using a drill press I can understand his/her woes, but i was guessing a hand drill was being used.

But even using a hand drill can be a daunting task to many, if not most.

LOL.

 

[Kracin]

heat it up with a torch, drill right through it.


buff and polish when done

 

[Kracin]

This is a common misconception. Running too slow can cause the bit and material to overheat. In specific work hardening materials running slow will cause the material to get harder and the drill softer. Basically shooting yourself in the foot.

I think the drill press is the #1 most misunderstood tool in the shop. I always get a laugh reading the common fab forums on the net. Guys wanting to run drills at like 25RPM. Every material has a specific cutting speed that it properly cuts at.

heard of a nice little way to set speeds. something like

for tool/hardened steel 180

mild steels 300

and aluminum/brass 600

then divide that number into the size of the bit/hole being made and you have a good starter rpm. seems to work ok for getting a good starting number. then adjust from there based on the specifics like type of bit, bit angle, etc.


take 300/.2010 for a #7 or 17/32 bit for drilling holes to be tapped for 1/4-20 and you get something like 1500 rpm about for mild steel drilling

 

[Exceller8]

how big of a hole are you drilling?

5/16"

 

[Exceller8]

Right now I'm using a 12" Delta drill press at about 1200 rpm with thread cutting oil. I've tried high speed steel, cobalt, masonry, titanium, glass & tile p) and other special $$$ bits.

I made it through the chrome on one hole and I'm still having a hard time getting through.

I'm about ready to take it to a machinist and be done with it, but what fun would that be!

 

[zkling]

Right now I'm using a 12" Delta drill press at about 1200 rpm with thread cutting oil. I've tried high speed steel, cobalt, masonry, titanium, glass & tile p) and other special $$$ bits.

I made it through the chrome on one hole and I'm still having a hard time getting through.

I'm about ready to take it to a machinist and be done with it, but what fun would that be!

Try this.

-Clamp wrench securely to the drill press table.

-Use a center drill to put a small starting divot. Just enough to make a little
crater.

-Put a dab of cutting fluid into the divot created by the center drill.

-Use a sharp, good quality HSS 5/16 drill bit. Run ~750-800 RPM.

-With firm, uniform pressure push the drill bit though the wrench. If the bit chatters, you are not feeding fast enough. Back off a little on pressure when it feels like it is going to break through the back side.

Simple as that.

Good luck

 

[Exceller8]

Try this.

-Clamp wrench securely to the drill press table.

-Use a center drill to put a small starting divot. Just enough to make a little
crater.

-Put a dab of cutting fluid into the divot created by the center drill.

-Use a sharp, good quality HSS 5/16 drill bit. Run ~750-800 RPM.

-With firm, uniform pressure push the drill bit though the wrench. If the bit chatters, you are not feeding fast enough. Back off a little on pressure when it feels like it is going to break through the back side.

Simple as that.

Good luck

I'll give that a try, thanks!

 

[Givl Reggin]

I don't think HSS will cut it (pun intended you're going to need a solid carbide drill bit - the suggestion to use a masonry bit is a good one, because it's tip is likely carbide, but it has the wrong geometry for drilling hardened tool steel.

 

[Exceller8]

I don't think HSS will cut it (pun intended you're going to need a solid carbide drill bit - the suggestion to use a masonry bit is a good one, because it's tip is likely carbide, but it has the wrong geometry for drilling hardened tool steel.

I haven't tried a carbide bit yet. I wasn't able to find one locally.

 

[ATC]

Heat it with a torch...



Then press the lever

 

[Rezeppa]

Carbide is your bet but careful the harder the bit the more brittle they become

 

[rlitman]

I don't think HSS will cut it (pun intended you're going to need a solid carbide drill bit - the suggestion to use a masonry bit is a good one, because it's tip is likely carbide, but it has the wrong geometry for drilling hardened tool steel.

That's what I was saying. A masonry bit generally has a negative rake, and relies on the hammering action to drill. It is basically a rotating cold chisel, and will not cut steel.

The cutting edge on these however will cut steel:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TO5FEA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

HD has them for around twice the price.

Since I have a few full sets of cobalt bits, I'd try that first. But that bit MUST be sharp to have a chance.

 

[neophyte]

You can buy drill bits for cutting hardened steel. This is one listed on Graingers website.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/B-A-Hard-Steel-Drill-Bit-4VYX3?Pid=search

 

[RCStocker]

heat it up with a torch, drill right through it.


buff and polish when done

He wants to use it as a door handle. Heating will change the color and mess up the chrome.

I would use a milling machine and mill the the wholes.
A center drill for a lathe will work but you can't turn it very fast. Feeds and speed are the key to maching and it all depends on what you are working with.

 

[N.I.]

As said before, cobalt bits won't touch them, you need carbide.

You can buy the special Bosch bits but it is possible to sharpen an old masonary bit to do the same job.

I did it a while ago just for the hell of it.

You just need to change the rake angle.

 

[Kracin]

He wants to use it as a door handle. Heating will change the color and mess up the chrome.

I would use a milling machine and mill the the wholes.
A center drill for a lathe will work but you can't turn it very fast. Feeds and speed are the key to maching and it all depends on what you are working with.

non chrome would be okay for heating, but obviously if it has some sort of special finish it wouldn't be a good idea, just throwing it out there lol.

 

[rlitman]

you need carbide.

You can buy the special Bosch bits but it is possible to sharpen an old masonary bit to do the same job.

You just need to change the rake angle.

Exactly. The hard part is that carbide really only sharpens with a diamond wheel, but you can actually use the cheap angle grinder diamond wheels meant for wet cutting tile, and a little water to do this modification, IF you already have a carbide bit to mess with. If not, then just buy the one that has the right rake angle to start with.

 

[fflintstone]

Are you through the Crome even?
Take a carbide burr and grind a divot so you are through the Crome then go back to the drill bit

Bob

X 2!

you have to grind thru the outer case hardening. I have made numerous wrench handles. another technique is to put a pin point of heat on the drill spot.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Look up Bad Dog Drill bits, they sell at shows and work great. I have drilled files and other hardened metal that HS drills don't even scratch. Expensive but lifetime warranty, they are sold at woodworking/metal working shows direct and they will swap broken bits there or you can sent them in. Drill metal at very high speeds compared to what you would normally expect.

 

[neophyte]

Look up Bad Dog Drill bits, they sell at shows and work great. I have drilled files and other hardened metal that HS drills don't even scratch. Expensive but lifetime warranty, they are sold at woodworking/metal working shows direct and they will swap broken bits there or you can sent them in. Drill metal at very high speeds compared to what you would normally expect.

Here's a link to the Bad Dog Tools Webpage showing the drill bits.

https://baddogtools.com/styled-6/styled-8/index.html

And the page you use to purchase them.

https://baddogtools.com/styled-15/rapidcart-3/index.html

 

[Exceller8]

Thanks for all of the help guys! I'm going to try out a carbide bit today and a couple of the other ideas listed.

 

[rancherbill]

I'm trying to drill two holes in a 2" combination wrench so I can use it as a door handle for my shop. I've tried just about every type of drill bit known to man and I can't get through it.

I even bought a $9 special heavy duty bit at HD and the wrench just laughed at it!

Help!!!

You dont need holes!!! Weld studs on the back of the wrench. IMHO it looks better also.

 

[Outlawmws]

You dont need holes!!! Weld studs on the back of the wrench. IMHO it looks better also.

THIS ^^^

 

[TwoInch]

if he is trying to keep a chrome wrench looking good, that wont work well..

i imagine there is a reason he is trying to drill it over going the easy route.

 

[5mall5nail5]

I didn't read the whole thread but I'd start out with a center drill... or my plasma cutter

 

[Exceller8]

if he is trying to keep a chrome wrench looking good, that wont work well..

i imagine there is a reason he is trying to drill it over going the easy route.

Yeah, I don't know how to weld yet.

I'm going to add some nice hardware when I'm done.

 

[Exceller8]

You guys rock!! I got through the wrench without any problems using the Irwin Multi-Material drill bit (4935109) listed in the picture. My drill press was set at 1100 rpm but I should have changed it to 600 which was the next option on my machine.

 

[Rico.]

Well done John me old Chap. I love it when a thread turns into a plan, and then
into success. There are some great people on this form, hats off to the rest of you.