Best drill bits...period?

[dlcwent]

I thought I should add that cutting oil goes along way also when drilling and keeping the bits sharp longer.

 

[OxJaw]

I usually only buy drills as single myself... it's the drill BITS that I buy as a set.

I like Norseman for metal myself

Drill bits are referred to as Drills in some tool catalogs.

The book at the tool crib where I work is listed like that and so are some online catalogs.

 

[AbitNutz]

Jbradley 500...what are those? Pardon my ignorance but I've never seen anything like that before.

 

[Kevin54]

I have drilled many thousands of holes from small to really big, in mild steel and tool steels, and like others have said, the quality of the drill is only one part of the story. The drill has to suit the material being drilled and then you have to make sure cutting speed is correct as well as cutting feed (how hard you push). Oil is good for some light drilling but you really need cutting fluid. It is typically mixed (emulsified) with water and adds a cooling effect. Oil has very low heat conductivity and doesn't pull the heat away very well.

When drilling holes in steel, unless you have a really powerful drill press with feed, always start with a pilot hole for anything larger than about 5/16" (hand drill) or 1/2" drill press. You will be amazed at how quickly you can put a hole through a piece of steel plate. The trick with the pilot drill is that it has to be about the same size as the web of the drill for the final hole. For hand drilling, I will sometimes step up the sizes. Start with a 1/8" or smaller if you can manage it without breaking it and go up from there.

The death of a lot of drills is that they spend too much time rubbing and not cutting. You would be blown away if you saw how fast a drill can go through a piece of steel with the correct cutting speed, feed and coolant. And it will last a long time.

^^^^This right here^^^^

I have drilled all sort of metal from gummy aluminum to Inconel, Titanium, and anything in between. Feeds and speeds are the key factor. For a lot of metals, slow and steady is the key. But a lot of people want to chuck a drill up in a hand drill and try to horse the bit through the material, or chuck the drill bit up in a drill press and try to horse it through that way. A lot of my drill bits are "Westward", which are cheapy bits sold through Grainger. There is nothing wrong with them, even though the low end of the scale. I've use some of them for years without ever sharpening them. I've watched others burn up expensive bits after bit trying to drill material because they were in a hurry. The most common lube I use when drilling holes is oil, something around 30 weight.

So for the OP.....instead of looking for expensive bits, thinking that they will work wonders, experiment with your speeds that you are running the bit at. A good, sharp, cheap bit, will roll curls out of both flutes if the speeds and feeds coincide.

 

[catalytic]

I have a Drill Doctor 750x. It's great. Some people don't like it because you can remove the rake on the drill cutters if you're not careful (then they wonder why their newly sharpened, shiny looking drill doesn't work...). But once you get the hang of it, it's fantastic.

I do not recommend import drill bits, and don't waste your money on titanium/black oxide coating junk. You just want American made HSS drills. If you drill metal a lot, then 135° is nice, but 118° is fine.

Rather than the super cheap import sets, you're much better off going to Harry Epstein and buying single USA made bits (theirs are Norseman -- a high quality bit) until you have a set. A set of 1/16-1/2" by every 1/16 is something like $15-$20 when you buy this way -- just a few dollars more than the absolute cheapest import junk. Combine that with a drill doctor and you're good to go for a long time. (And for a $10 more, grab a Huot metal drill index/case to store them in with free shipping from Amazon and a couple other places).

 

[yaidunno]

Since these just showed up today, i thought it would be fitting to show. Precision screw machine length 135* split point black oxide.

AbitNutz, in reference to Jbradley's photo, those are indexable drills, commonly used in production lathe work. They can even be offset to an extent to use as a boring bar after the initial hole is made.

 

[Durka]

Post 44 is correct^^^to a point. It's more dependent upon what your working with. . Once you learn HOW to drill, - you'll want the right stuff to compliment that. M42's for hard alloys.

 

[K-Dog]

Okay, does any one know for a fact that their drill bit will drill through Boron or other SHSS found on cars now a days ?

I see Precision Twist mentioned a few times here, how is that on the super hard stuff.

 

[techenthusiast]

Is it possible for one set of quality bits to last a lifetime ?


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[NoahG]

Just wanna say that after struggling to drill hundreds of 25/64 holes for 3/8 bolts on a gig the other day, this thread has been incredibly helpful. We were going through bits like no ones business.

 

[Techie1961]

Is it possible for one set of quality bits to last a lifetime ?


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Yes. But it depends. In the toolshop that I worked in, you eventually have sharpened the drill so many times that it is too short and the web gets too thick. As an enthusiast at home, a good set should last a lifetime. There is a lot of skill required to do that though. All the stuff mentioned above will make it last. I have an SKF set that is about 30 years old IIRC.

What deems a bit garbage is either total failure (broken) or worn out at the margins. Once it wears out, it acts like a tapered plug gauge where the tip is smaller diameter compared to the rest of the length. You will then risk breaking it off and it will heat up a lot and burn out.

 

[theoldwizard1]

... I have drilled all sort of metal from gummy aluminum to Inconel, Titanium, and anything in between.

So what kind of drill bit do you use on Inconel and/or Titanium ?

 

[Kevin54]

Is it possible for one set of quality bits to last a lifetime ?


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Yes. But it depends. In the toolshop that I worked in, you eventually have sharpened the drill so many times that it is too short and the web gets too thick. As an enthusiast at home, a good set should last a lifetime. There is a lot of skill required to do that though. All the stuff mentioned above will make it last. I have an SKF set that is about 30 years old IIRC.

What deems a bit garbage is either total failure (broken) or worn out at the margins. Once it wears out, it acts like a tapered plug gauge where the tip is smaller diameter compared to the rest of the length. You will then risk breaking it off and it will heat up a lot and burn out.

I'll say yes and no to lasting a lifetime. Will they last a lifetime without ever sharpening them? NO!!!! Will a good set last a lifetime with a few sharpenings? It's possible, IF one learns how to drill particular metals and even some woods. Stainless Steel vs. Cold Rolled Steel vs. Cast Iron, can all use the same drill bit, but all three have different drilling characteristics. Cast Iron produces dust, Cold Rolled will produce a shaving that will break, and stainless steel will produce a long shaving that can slice you to the bone. ANd just because cast iron produces a dust, it will dull a drill bit faster than Cold Rolled Steel. Cast Iron is abrasive.

I watched a co-worker drilling a 1/16" stainless steel sheet one day. He went through about 6 bits and still did not have a hole. THe drill bit and the stainless would heat up cherry red. He then put the sheet in the mill, and taking a carbide endmill, proceeded to dull the endmill and pop in a rather jagged looking hole all the while still heating up the stainless a cherry red. I finally watched long enough and told him to slow the mill all of the way down to maybe 300 rpm's, and use a little oil, and get a sharp drill bit. He popped in hole after hole. All it took was slowing everything down for stainless.

As I said above, I use oil when I drill, but not a lot of oil. I have some Nalgene squeeze bottles as shown below and just use a tad few drops when I drill. But if you look through some of the older, and even in the more modern Machinist Handbooks, a lot of people years back used kerosene and lard for drilling and tapping, and other homemade concoctions. A lot of people use Tap Magic for drilling and tapping. Myself, I've had great results with what is basically 30w oil and a quart will last for a couple years.

When it comes to tapping, especially small taper taps and up to and including 5/16", use oil as a lube, or if you are into something that you don't want chips falling into, use a heavy grease as a lube. There is also a soap/wax that comes in a tube that can be ordered through some machinist catalogs and Grainger that is good for drilling and tapping. ANd when it comes to taps, if you are using small 3 flute taps, or four flute taps, STOP!!! Order yourself a set of 2 flute gun taps, or 2 flute spiral point taps. You have more chip clearance. If you need to use a bottom tap.....tap your hole with a 2 flute, then go in with a bottom tap to finish it. If when tapping you hear a slight snap or crack...STOP!!!! You just either broke a tooth off of the tap, or broke the tap itself. VERY CAREFULLY try to back it out. DO NOT try to run it in, or you'll snap the complete tap off. Then you have problems.

Also get a good drill and tap chart. You can get one online. There is a difference in drill sizes when it comes to using 2 flute taps and four flute taps. Ideally you want your thread at 75%. No problem with a two flute and a Class 3 tap. If you use a four flute, bump up your drill size by a few thousandths. It may give you 65% threads which is fine for most everyday things around the garage and house. Truth be known, I bet I haven't used a four flute tap in 25 years. A 3 flute, when you get up to a 3/8" tap, most start using three flutes, then change back to 2 or three after 7/16".

Anyways, get a good set of drills, although they don't have to cost an arm and a leg. Buy what's in your budget. Get a couple Nalgene squeeze bottles. Put a light oil in one, put a little 30 weight in another, and even put a little gear lube in the third one. See what's best for your application. Learn not to get in a hurry. Just remember the Tortoise and the Hare. Slow and steady wins out over getting in a hurry an burning everything up. Plus your materials may not be cheap. Nothing worse than having to scrap out a project that you are halfway through with because you snapped a drill or snapped a tap off in it. I've taken out thousands over the years for the production floor because they were always in a hurry or just not paying attention. And one other thing, when tapping, don't hold the piece in one hand and try to tap with the other while walking around shooting the **** or standing around watching TV. Make sure your part is supported, and use both hands to control your tap handle, so you are wobbling it around.

 

[Kevin54]

So what kind of drill bit do you use on Inconel and/or Titanium ?

I use the same drills that I use on aluminum, or I may use a 135 degree split point. Inconel is some tough stuff. Actually it's just a ***** to work with, plain and simple. And you have to go real slow.

Titanium is sort of opposite. It will start drilling good, then you are part way in and it will squeeze shut on you right away. Titanium takes a lot of lube and slow easy pecks, only going in a few though at a time. THe same with reaming. Titanium can be cool to the touch, but will squeeze shut on a reamer if you try to horse it through in one shot.

As far as both Inconel and Titanium, I machine Inconel and Titanium using carbide tools, but when it comes to drilling and tapping, I use HSS. All for the fact that if and when something breaks, which it undoubtedly will.....it's easier to remove a broken HSS drill or reamer than it is to remove a carbide drill or reamer.

One other thing to add about drilling.....get online and learn some about the materials you are working with. Just like the Cast Iron, and other steels, because something drills easy does not mean that your drill bit will last a long time. If you work with fiberglass on a continual basis......don't buy a $3, $4, or $5 drill bit. Buy a $0.99 drill bit in the size you need and buy a few of them. Four $1 bits will go further than one $4 bit. Fiberglass is highly abrasive. Not only does it dull your point, it will dull your bit flute as far as you go into the fiberglass. Once your flute's minor cutting edge is dulled and loses it's edge, sharpening the point may get you a little further. Up to 1/4" or 5/16", drill bits are cheap and disposable. If you send milling cutters and drill bits out to be sharpened, then keep the drill bits from 5/16" or 3/8" on up as at times it's cheaper to refurbish them instead of tossing them. Below 5/16". it cost more to refurbish them than what a bit cost.

That is if you send tools out to be sharpened. If you have a Drill Doctor, and have the time, or if you have a real decent wheel on your bench grinder, you can learn to sharpen the bits that way.

 

[techenthusiast]

Would you recommend a drill doctor or manual sharpening on a grinding wheel?


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[woody 73]

Would you recommend a drill doctor or manual sharpening on a grinding wheel?


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Either one will work, if you are worried about the learning curve and destroying too many bits then buy the drill doctor. But be sure and buy some used bits at a garage sale and if you have a bench grinder then practice on the used bits; in no time you will have it down pat:

Start here-

As I said earlier many of the guys gave some fantastic names in top quality bits, but if you can not keep them sharp all is lost.

 

[larry_g]

Is it possible for one set of quality bits to last a lifetime ?

How long you gonna live, and how many holes you gonna drill? Better question would be "what is the lifetime of a drill bit?". A ton of variables in this. In a production environment speed is important and drill bits are consumables. So look at the life of a drill bit in terms of how many holes will it drill in a specific material. Like Kevin said above he watched a guy destroy multiple bits without making a hole. So in the hands of an educated and experienced machinist a cutting tool can have a long life. In the hands of an ignoramus they can be very short lived. Find yourself a machining text book at the local book store or library and study up on cutting tools and the life of your cutting tools will be long and fruitful.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[theoldwizard1]

Unlike Kevin, I have very lttle experience drilling different types of metals. I do know that the typical homeowner, double reduction 1/2" drill motor is too fast for drilling 3/8" and larger holes in most metals.

I always tell people, if they really want a 1/2" chuck capacity portable drill get one with TRIPLE gear reduction. Top speed should be 600-800 rpm (?). Use the "assist handle" when drilling hole larger than about 3/8", if you value your wrist !

 

[APEowner]

Would you recommend a drill doctor or manual sharpening on a grinding wheel?

A drill doctor is a handy tool to have but if you're going to do alot of metal work it's worth it to learn how to sharpen bits (and really all cutting tools) by hand.

 

[zengarage]

Drill bits are consumable. Buy any decent brand sharpen them when the get dull and replace them when they are worn out. Seems like I am the minority here but I don't use oil for drilling. It just makes a mess for almost no gain. For large holes I will use coolant. Yes that is more messy than a little oil but it is doing what I want which is removing heat. If I was worried about the finish of the hole or holding super tight tolerances maybe I would use oil but it wouldn't just be old motor oil.

 

[BlackjackNA]

Deleted

 

[rdn2blazer]

If I was to say "Best" I say Guhring drills period. Never used a better drill. Been a job shop machinist for many many years and have used just about any and every kind of drills there is. I personally purchase Guhring Cobalt split point drills for my machine shop and Precision Twist Cobalt split points as well. Hands down the best cobalt drills made in my opinion. I also use there endmills and taps and other cutting tools, but not exclusively. There are many quality carbide cutter manufacturers out there.

http://www.guhring.com/

 

[BlackjackNA]

(Stupid question) deleted).

 

[espyking83]

The best I have used are Norseman, but I'm not exactly a know-it-all when it comes to drilling. All I use them on are sheet metal and aluminum from time to time.

 

[BFHtime]

I think this topic went too far into the machine and tool shop. For most people working in their garage, since this is garage journal, the needs and requirements are not the same as a production machine shop.

For softer materials you can get away with softer bits. Most people will to ably be using a drill with hand guidance as opposed to a drill press. So it would be important to keep the bit perpendicular to the surface being cut, which is why 135 degrees is the optimum angle for cutting contact.

I like to consider how much a bit my walk when starting a hole, the more it may walk without center punching, like multiple holes in a hard wood at an angle, then HSS would be the best. It would be less likely to break. The same thing with plastics that may deform as you apply pressure, a more flexible bit, will be better than a harder less flexible one.

Cobalt and carbide are hard. Titanium coated have a hard surface. High speed steel are more flexible. There are cheaper bits also which are good for softer materials. I save my harder bits, which are more expensive for drilling harder items.

Drilling with an electric hand drill can lead to breaking the brittle harder bits more easily with imprecision of handling the tool. I also find that the now common keyless chucks do not seem as true as the chuck that adjust with a key.

When drilling steel or when drilling multiple material types, like a microlam beem wih steel flitch plates, you may have to adjust your speed and maybe several times. When drilling hard metals I will use just about anything handy to cool the bit, cooling is the key, lube is becomes more important on deeper holes. When holes are deeper I like to use a thicker oil or grease. I like engine assembly lube as it is oily but is tacky enough to carry the chips out of the hole. After 20-30 seconds I may spray wd40 or pbblaster or whatever to cool the bit down. I keep steady pressure to maintain. Bit cutting contact, I am not trying to force the bit through, just help the bit continue to make cutting contact.

I picture most people with a cordless drill at home or at work drilling something that is not constantly being performed. I would suggest the slow speed of he drill transmission and slow speed with the trigger. You don't want to stall the drill but keep just enough speed to keep cutting, it will cut faster this way. Maintain easy firm pressure, keep your eye on the bit if it is starting to flex, ease up and slowly increase pressure again. It is easy to bend and break small bits. It is important to develop a feel for the bit, drill, and material; while still staying perpendicular, keeping steady pressure, and controlling speed. I always use a center punch if I can, I have substituted using a nail with a hammer in the absence of one. The self sprung type are nice, just push in and bang.

Feeling how the things are working is the key and with respect to material. A deep hole in wood may drill faster fast but if the hole is large, speed will also depend on drill bit type, and if you hit a knot. So there are many things to consider and experience helps. Paying attention to the things I just posted will help in that experience department, which will help with what type of bit to use.

Good quality bits are not cheap, but they are not always necessary.
Good luck.

 

[PT Doc]

If anyone is interested in Norseman drill sets or any Norseman products for that matter, I will be posting the details for the group buy in the Hot Deals section later today.

 

[K-Dog]

If anyone is interested in Norseman drill sets or any Norseman products for that matter, I will be posting the details for the group buy in the Hot Deals section later today.

There is a hot deals section ?

I need to pay more attention....

 

[Tronyadorable]

Most drill bits arent needed. Figure out what you'll actually use frequently and make a custome set.
By cheap **** to have stuff you "might" need some day.
Custom sets
http://www.wintersdrillbitcity.com/