Best drill for aviation use?

[bhalv]

So im looking to pick up a new air drill for use primarily in aviation sheet metal im definitely looking for a buy it once and been done quality. I've narrowed it down to 2 and was wondering if there is any difference between the 2
1. Snap on at $330 (though i can probably get it at student discount) http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=675929&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
2. Or this sioux at $240
http://www.browntool.com/Default.as...ductName,ProductNumber&Level=a&ProductID=2149

I'm open to other suggestions, as long as it has a keyed chuck and is reversible

 

[gagreen]

this one was recommended to me. Why do you want reversible?

 

[bhalv]

this one was recommended to me. Why do you want reversible?

For those days when you get too aggressive with the drilling and get your bit stuck.

 

[SKAutomotive]

Are you sure Sioux doesn't make that drill for SO?

 

[86k10]

Are you sure Sioux doesn't make that drill for SO?

To my understanding they do but I could be wrong. And a $100 difference. They look the same to me.

 

[CWP1616L]

was wondering if there is any difference between the 2

It's looking like 500 rpm is the only difference.

 

[mds5951]

.0025 runout on the SO vs .005 on the sioux
.45hp motor on the SO vs 1hp on the sioux

...not sure if any of this makes a difference lol

 

[machine_punk]

While I don't actually work on airplanes, I DO build things with sheet aluminum and solid rivets. I think you are going to find those drills are 'too much,' as in too big. You just don't need that kind of torque in aircraft work and the smaller and lighter, the better--and longer you can use it without fatigue. I'd recommend a 1/4" drill over the 3/8" drill. Smaller, easier to hold for long times, and more than enough torque for whatever you will do on aircraft. Working on aircraft (by the book, anyway) tends to be more finesse, and less brute force (which is probably why drills billed for aerospace use don't usually have reverse).

I don't have any personal experience with the new, high-end 1/4" drills, but the Brown Tool site definitely has a few choices in the price range you seem to be looking. I tend to prefer to have several air drills, set up for different parts of the job, instead of just one drill. As I add drills to my collection, I plan to add used, high-end, aviation-brand drills from eBay and other sources.

http://www.browntool.com/Default.as...43&List=1&SortField=ProductName,ProductNumber

http://www.browntool.com/Default.aspx?tabid=255&CategoryID=189&List=1&SortField=ProductName%2cProductNumber&Level=a&ProductID=1216

http://www.browntool.com/Default.as...ductName,ProductNumber&Level=a&ProductID=2724

Are you planning on getting a threaded drill too? (the 90-degree drill with a small head, for reaching into tight places...uses threaded drill bits, with a 1/4-28 threaded shank). They are the bees knees for getting into tight spots..

Kev.

 

[86k10]

.0025 runout on the SO vs .005 on the sioux
.45hp motor on the SO vs 1hp on the sioux

...not sure if any of this makes a difference lol

That would be a good difference. I just look at pretty pictures.

 

[bhalv]

While I don't actually work on airplanes, I DO build things with sheet aluminum and solid rivets. I think you are going to find those drills are 'too much,' as in too big. You just don't need that kind of torque in aircraft work and the smaller and lighter, the better. I'd recommend a 1/4" drill over the 3/8" drill. Smaller, easier to hold for long times, and more than enough torque for whatever you will do on aircraft.

I don't have any personal experience with the high-end 1/4" drills, but the Brown Tool site definitely has a few choices. I tend to prefer to have several drills, set up for different parts of the job, instead of just one high-end drill. As I add drills to my collection, I plan to add used, high-end, aviation-brand drills from eBay and other sources.

Are you planning on getting a threaded drill too? (the 90-degree drill with a small head, for reaching into tight places...uses threaded drill bits, with a 1/4-28 threaded shank). They are the bees knees for getting into tight spots..

Kev.

good point on the 3/8" possibly being overkill. As far as threaded drills go, every shop i have been in owns one so no real need to buy one myself.

 

[bhalv]

It's looking like 500 rpm is the only difference.

the sioux also comes in a 2500rpm model, cant really see a need to go that high anyways.

 

[porschedude996TT]

I used to manufacturer aircraft and started out as a sheet metal mechanic back in 1974. I was issued a new Sioux 1/4" drill motor when I started. I used it for many years, kept oil in most of the time, never a problem. It was not reverse able, but I don't see the need in working with sheet metal.

 

[A_Pmech]

1/4" Cleco, Sioux or Dotco palm drill would be my choice. The faster the better. Drilling #30 and #40 holes at 2,500 RPM gets old in a hurry.

 

[bhalv]

1/4" Cleco, Sioux or Dotco palm drill would be my choice. The faster the better. Drilling #30 and #40 holes at 2,500 RPM gets old in a hurry.

so something more along these lines? http://www.browntool.com/Default.as...44&List=1&SortField=ProductName,ProductNumber

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sioux-1453-...597?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item232a83a7c5

 

[CWP1616L]

If I was drilling small holes in sheet metal, I'd probably go this route:

http://www.browntool.com/Default.as...ductName,ProductNumber&Level=a&ProductID=2142

The higher speed makes for a cleaner hole too.

 

[RCStocker]

Are you sure Sioux doesn't make that drill for SO?

Snap-on owns Sioux. They are very good. I have several Sioux, Snap-on and a half dozen other good drills. I have had some of them for 40 or 50 years and all mine are used. They all work just fine and I used them in construction for years. They did not get hot when drilling wholes in timber.

I would never buy a drill that was not reversible. When drilling metal the last bit can hang up on the chip and cause the drill to slip. There are a host of reasons to get a drill with a reverse. I have both. What I do hate is the keyless chucks. I don't car how tight you might hold it with a leather glove on they still do not hold the bit like a chuck key. With the chuck key you need to put it in every whole and tighten it. Not once and go. My good old tool and die apprenticeship I serve back in the late 50 taught me a lot that no one teaches today. We had to make parts with a file stone and fine cloth sand paper. That is how we finished off a lot of molds. We need a lot fewer tools than we think we need. The auto industry needs to standardize many things. There are far to many one of a kind tools. In Aircraft there are a lot of specialty tools and tooling. They were invented by necessity.

 

[gagreen]

Snap-on owns Sioux. They are very good. I have several Sioux, Snap-on and a half dozen other good drills. I have had some of them for 40 or 50 years and all mine are used. They all work just fine and I used them in construction for years. They did not get hot when drilling wholes in timber.

I would never buy a drill that was not reversible. When drilling metal the last bit can hang up on the chip and cause the drill to slip. There are a host of reasons to get a drill with a reverse. I have both. What I do hate is the keyless chucks. I don't car how tight you might hold it with a leather glove on they still do not hold the bit like a chuck key. With the chuck key you need to put it in every whole and tighten it. Not once and go. My good old tool and die apprenticeship I serve back in the late 50 taught me a lot that no one teaches today. We had to make parts with a file stone and fine cloth sand paper. That is how we finished off a lot of molds. We need a lot fewer tools than we think we need. The auto industry needs to standardize many things. There are far to many one of a kind tools. In Aircraft there are a lot of specialty tools and tooling. They were invented by necessity.

I rarely see reversible drills in sheet metal shops in aviation. I will hunt down references to maint manuals that prohibit reversing as elongating a hole can make a whole panel unairworthy.


also 4k rpm is much to fast for standard aviation sheet metal work. 4k drills will be seen in composite shops. 2600 rpm is a great place to start and fairly forgiving while your learning to drill out rivets. Mess up or slip with a 4k rpm drill while removing rivets and again, there goes a perfectly good panel and your explaining why you have to make a patch panel or a whole new one all together.

It's all up to you. I always hear 1/4" chuck, 2600rpm (top end), Feathering trigger, not generally a need for reversible unless you want it. Brands that get tossed around are dotco, sioux, cleco.

 

[Provincial]

My aircraft drills all came surplus from Boeing. They probably made B-29's and B-47's. I think they were phased out before they started making 707's! The two pistol drills are either 4,000 or 4,500 rpm, and they work great on aluminum. I found that 2,500 rpm drills are way too slow for 1/4 inch and smaller on aluminum, especially thin sheet.

My angle drill is almost identical to the long one in post #8. It uses the threaded bits. I find that for general drilling the pistol drill with a regular chuck is fast and economical. Threaded bits are expensive!

I never had one of the angle palm drills. It would have been useful a few times, but I was able to do everything I needed with the pistol drills and the angle drill.

I did repair work on light aircraft up to DC-3's.

 

[Bruce4310TX]

Sioux makes good stuff, SO overpriced yes the reverse is nice and that angle drill (Some people call them buckeye drills ) are awesome also consider a small compact drill they work great too. if you get to go to seattle or spokane Boeing has great deals at there surplus stores they sell un-needed tooling worth the trip might even be online.