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Best drop cord replacement ends?

i4ni

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Jan 23, 2010
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Who makes the best 120 volt drop cord replacement ends these days? Bryant made a good one years ago. Thanks
 
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i4ni

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I believe I have a cord with one of these on it. I'll look in a few minutes
 

sparky 1971

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I like the Pass and Seymour heavy duty. There's really nothing special about them other than they are readily available around me.
 

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i4ni

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I see the upside to twist locks but there not practical in every day real life applications. Although having some twist lock outlets in a shop would be a plus for bench grinders and other dedicated equipment.
 

Sumboodie

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They need to be to be to electrical code. If that matters.

Std ends will unplug from the weight of the cord

I see the upside to twist locks but there not practical in every day real life applications. Although having some twist lock outlets in a shop would be a plus for bench grinders and other dedicated equipment.
Drop cords aren't usually unplugged often, especially the end on the ceiling.
 
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i4ni

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Maybe I should of said extension cord sorry for any confussion.
 

nadogail

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This will be a two part answer; in my limited experience I have yet to find a product that is demonstrably better than those made by Hubbel.
To be honest, I frequently buy the plugs and receptacles made by others because I have found them to be "Good Enough".

A few years ago, I purchased a Connector Body from Home Depot that has a button to release a plug that locks into it.
 

yelchevelle

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Hoover, AL
not that you need it in the garage, but is it osha approved to use one of those. I have asked multiple safety folks on big commercial jobs and gotten as many answers as people I have asked. I may get the same here. I have an extension cord or two that are really nice that I keep in my personal garage, but won’t take on a job site because who knows what safety officer will see it and cut it up. I have never had it happen, but I have heard of it happening.
 
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i4ni

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Everything on Amazon is off brand chi-com stuff I've never heard of so I wasn't even sure if Bryant was still in business. Turns out they are but they are spendy. I got to thinking I had some somewhere so I got to digging around and I found 5 Bryant plugs in a box of electrical stuff. We'll see how far they get me cause I have a pile of dumpster cords I've picked up on jobs over the years that need fixed lol.
 

vwpieces

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I say Hubbel.
But if you are looking at something from a big box home store there will probably only be one choice. Lowes here has Eaton in an industrial quality end. $15 for 15A and about $20 for 20A.
I just assembled a 25ft 12AWG using some 20A Hubbel ends I had on hand. That made me look up some prices... Crazy @ $20ea.
 

quickfarms

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not that you need it in the garage, but is it osha approved to use one of those. I have asked multiple safety folks on big commercial jobs and gotten as many answers as people I have asked. I may get the same here. I have an extension cord or two that are really nice that I keep in my personal garage, but won’t take on a job site because who knows what safety officer will see it and cut it up. I have never had it happen, but I have heard of it happening.
I work on jobsites daily and If a safety jerk every damaged my equipment he would be paying to replace it!

my equipment is in good condition and we build our own custom cords and I have never had an issue.
the people that have issues have equipment and cords that have exposed conductoare held together by electrical or duct tape

I was on a site and the safety idiot was saying that wood shoring was not acceptable. The engineer pointed out that the hole was not deep enough to require shoring. The safety idiot said all holes regardless of depth require shoring. I was standing there watching this show and asked the operator if he could take a few scoops of dirt and slope the sides at 1:1 . Before the idiot realized what had been done everyone got back to work and he stormed off to his hiding place
 

Shiftless

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East Bay SFO
these are great but do check the fit. Sometimes they don't fit on some pieces. I have a craftsman blower and had to use a different extension with smaller end for it to fit.

That is important. One of my cords with a replacement end doesn’t fit very well into my hedge clipper.

I bet that somebody on GJ has a box half full of almost new extra cord ends that he’ll never get around to using in his lifetime and would send you a couple of them for the price of a six pack.
 
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rlitman

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Oct 18, 2010
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Long Island
If you get hospital grade, they have a higher crush rating. Last a long time in the garage.
Hospital grade receptacle/connectors only require a stronger pull-out force on the ground pin.
not that you need it in the garage, but is it osha approved to use one of those. I have asked multiple safety folks on big commercial jobs and gotten as many answers as people I have asked. I may get the same here. I have an extension cord or two that are really nice that I keep in my personal garage, but won’t take on a job site because who knows what safety officer will see it and cut it up. I have never had it happen, but I have heard of it happening.
OSHA only allows cast in place ends on extension cords.
 

Shiftless

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I found this on the osha website…


When the temporary wiring consists of shop-made cord sets, etc., using approved parts, as permitted by 1910.305(a)(2) and 1926.405(a)(2), the requirements for listing by a nationally-recognized testing laboratory do not apply.

The practice of assembling electrical extension cords is considered to be in compliance with OSHA standards, provided the assembled cord sets are assembled in a manner equivalent to those that are factory-assembled and approved. Criteria for determining whether shop-made cord sets meet existing electrical standards include:


  1. All components must be approved for the purpose by a nationally-recognized testing laboratory (1910.303(a)) and (1926.403(a)). Individual components must be compatible for use with the other components of the completed assembly.
  2. The cord set must meet all applicable requirements of 1910 Subpart S and 1926 Subpart K. For example, the assembly must be marked appropriately (1910.303(e)) and (1926.405(g)(2)(iv)); boxing intended for use in a permanent installation may not be used (1910.303(b)(1)(i) and 1926.403(b)(1)(i)); cords must be connected to devices and fittings so as to provide strain relief (1910.305(g)(2) (iii) and 1926.405(g)(2)(iv)); cords passing through holes in enclosures must be protected by bushings or fittings designed for the purpose (1926.405(g)(2)(v) – fittings designed to fasten cables to metal boxes are not acceptable); and no grounded conductor shall be attached to any terminal or lead so as to reverse designated polarity (1910.304(a)(2)) and (1926.404(a)(2)).
  3. The cord set must be assembled by a qualified person.
  4. The wiring of the completed assembly must be inspected by a qualified person before the cord set is used initially. For example, the following checks and tests, or equivalent, should be performed:
    1. Determine that all equipment grounding conductors are electrically continuous.
    2. Test all equipment grounding conductors for electrical continuity.
    3. Determine that each equipment grounding conductor is connected to its proper terminal.
    4. Test each receptacle and attachment plug to ensure correct attachment of the equipment grounding conductor.
 
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