Best electrical tape?

[sparky 1971]

What's the negatives of wrapping, specifically what damage can it do?

There are no real "negatives", but cost is the biggest complaint. Both in labor and material, especially if using 33 or 88. I have also seen GFCI's that were taped before being installed in an old work box (metal, Raco 500 style) that fit so tight that I swear they darned near had to get beat in with a hammer. I had a terrible time getting them out of the boxes. And the cheap stuff leaves a gooey mess all over the device which gets it sent straight to the trash can before it can get set down on anything.

I buy 33 by the 10 packs and 88 by the singles. I manage to lose a roll way faster than I can use it up. Doing 80% service work, I am constantly taping things to wire for fishing and pulling. Several people have told me that the good tape is too expensive to use for that, but losing one thing in a wall or conduit because of cheap tape will quickly negate any cost savings by using the cheap stuff.

 

[alfredeneuman]

After 48 years in the residential trades, 6 of those as a leader on an electrical crew, I tape all receptacles. It shows you care about the next guy and the other trades.

After 45+ years straight as an electrician, 15 of those as a contractor, I never tape receptacles. The next guy ought to understand the dangers involved or he doesn't have any business being there in the first place.

 

[mike93lx]

I agree with the Cobbler.
After 48 years in the residential trades, 6 of those as a leader on an electrical crew, I tape all receptacles. It shows you care about the next guy and the other trades.

If the next guys needs tape and if other trades are in the boxes, neither should be touching them

 

[FrancisJ]

Scotch 33+ is 1150 V/mil thickness.

Scotch 33+ is 221 deg F operating max.

So is wire insulation. What is your point?

I’m not a huge user of electrical tape except when I’m pulling cable. But your facts are off.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b00034650/

Hmm. I also use Scotch 2228 or the like outdoors a lot - like for cat 6 connections to IP cameras. But that is for weatherproofing and not any kind of protection from voltage.

Scotch 33+ is 1150 V/mil thickness.

Scotch 33+ is 221 deg F operating max.

So is wire insulation. What is your point?

I’m not a huge user of electrical tape except when I’m pulling cable. But your facts are off.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b00034650/

Hmm. I also use Scotch 2228 or the like outdoors a lot - like for cat 6 connections to IP cameras. But that is for weatherproofing and not any kind of protection from voltage.

I said "black electricians tape" (not Scotch 33) -- tens of other brands in actual use and they're all over the map, much worse, most unknown quantities.

As for "insulation rating" 3M Marketing can say all they want, but for those who have to rely on it (in commercial products where it's rarely if ever used), you'll see how poorly it rates below against traditional insulation materials:

https://www.instrumart.com/assets/Megger-Guide-to-Insulation-Testing.pdf

221 deg F is Canadian only, doesn’t apply to the US -- Scotch 33 calls out US standard UL510 and that's only only 176 deg max and the glue actually starts melting / getting "gooey" at 120-125 degrees -- I've used a heat gun, tested it - real world.

They tell you right on the package it has a "shelf life" of five years --- and electricians are going to put this stuff in walls for far longer periods (and watch its properties fail over time)? Not me

You're not entitled to your own "facts" either.

 

[theoldwizard1]

scotch 33

3M Scotch 88 is better.

 

[American Locomotive]

There is no negative to taping outlets, and only potential upsides. It's safer if something would happen to damage the cover, it's safer if the outlet cover is not on (say during painting or whatever). It helps prevent something from potentially shorting against the screws if something happens inside the box. Yes in theory if everything was done correctly inside the box, nothing should ever come loose, but this is the real world and things beyond our control can happen. If a wirenut has a molding defect, the plastic cap could separate from the spring inside for example (I've seen this).

I tape switches, outlets, and wirenuts. I don't go crazy, just a few turns "just in case" something happens.

Some electricians like to make themselves feel more important and say "they don't need electrical tape", and call wrapped switches and outlets "work done by hacks". Trust me, I've seen plenty of garbage work, done by "licensed electricians" who didn't use any electrical tape.

Tape is just the belt - and - braces approach to safety.

I like to use 3M Super 88 or 33+

 

[billconner]

I don't like tape wrapped devices because they're usually a sticky mess to replace or change wiring. It can't be too critical if not required by code.

Someone mentioned the Scotch 2228. Amazing product. Just wrapped all my buried rigid conduit threaded joints with it.

 

[oldmachinenut]

There is no need for tape if you back-stab.

 

[eejack]

As mentioned above, Scotch 33 ( or 88 for high heat environments ).

The only time I wrap devices is if they are to be left exposed for temporary use, and then I never use black tape, I use Scotch 35 as it leaves clean when unwrapped and you can use brighter colors as a bit of a warning.

The downside to wrapping anything with electrical tape is you have to waste time unwrapping it to do anything useful; if you use crappy tape then everything you unwrap and your tools/fingers are covered in gooey black schmutz ( which of course gets all over the nearest white expensive item available ).

The place where you actually do use it is for covering hand made splices, ie split bugs or bolted/crimped connections, usually over a layer of Scotch 130 rubber tape, as the physical protection for the rubber tape.

Wrapping/not wrapping is not an indicator of skill level or hackiness - but I do encourage my apprentices to build up the confidence to not rely upon tape as a crutch.

 

[Max]

I said "black electricians tape" (not Scotch 33) -- tens of other brands in actual use and they're all over the map, much worse, most unknown quantities.

You made a blanket statement about electrical tape in general - you never said just the no name stuff.

As for "insulation rating" 3M Marketing can say all they want, but for those who have to rely on it (in commercial products where it's rarely if ever used), you'll see how poorly it rates below against traditional insulation materials:

https://www.instrumart.com/assets/Megger-Guide-to-Insulation-Testing.pdf

I already know how to use a megger - thanks. There are no test results in your link.

221 deg F is Canadian only, don't apply to the US -- Scotch 33 calls out US standard UL510 and that's only only 176 deg max and the glue actually starts melting / getting "gooey" at 120-125 degrees -- I've used a heat gun, tested it - real world.

I used the manufacturer’s US web page that says 221, but from the other data sheet previously it looks like you are right on the spec. and it‘s 176 to UL specs in the US.

So far as your own tests I can’t say. But data sheet vs. unsubstantiated opinion is easy for me.

They tell you right on the package it has a "shelf life" of five years --- and electricians are going to put this stuff in walls for far longer periods (and watch its properties fail over time)? Not me

Fair enough.

You're not entitled to your own "facts" either.

LOL. I referenced the mfg data sheet. Should I get a letter from the Pope next time?

 

[eejack]

As for "insulation rating" 3M Marketing can say all they want, but for those who have to rely on it (in commercial products where it's rarely if ever used), you'll see how poorly it rates below against traditional insulation materials:

https://www.instrumart.com/assets/Megger-Guide-to-Insulation-Testing.pdf

I really have to take issue with 'where it's rarely if ever used'. As a medium voltage splicer who has been relying upon 3M products for the last 38 years I can attest to how often these products are used, and used reliably. Scotch tapes are the standard for the entire industry.

Splice books specifically list these products as they have been reliably consistent for decades.

If 3M says their 33 tape is 600V rated and the dielectric capability is 1250V/per mil then it is. I have reliably half lapped exposed 600V conductors and passed megger tests in the past and will likely continue to do so in the future.

Now I cannot attest to anything over 48,000 volts, because that is the highest hand taped splice I have every made, so perhaps over those voltages you might have a point, but it certainly isn't mentioned in that megger pdf you so casually floated out there.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I'm amazed that so many professionals never use tape. I wonder if they even have it on their trucks.
Myself I always have a few rolls of 3M 33 (black and other colors) and at least one roll of 88 around.
I also have a roll of cloth friction tape and heavy rubber tape for split bolts and similar uses.

I have also used self fusing tape in a few 12V applications where it was more convienent than heat shrink. It's supposed to be a good sealed connection and so far I haven't had any issues.

 

[sparky 1971]

I'm amazed that so many professionals never use tape. I wonder if they even have it on their trucks.
Myself I always have a few rolls of 3M 33 (black and other colors) and at least one roll of 88 around.
I also have a roll of cloth friction tape and heavy rubber tape for split bolts and similar uses.

I have also used self fusing tape in a few 12V applications where it was more convienent than heat shrink. It's supposed to be a good sealed connection and so far I haven't had any issues.

We all use tape for something, but it's not very often that the something is wrapping devices or wire nuts.

 

[Jim greengo]

who does that?

scotch 33

I wrap outlets and switches since early 70s.
Yes ,super 33 is the best tape made.

 

[archtimb]

There is no negative to taping outlets, and only potential upsides. It's safer if something would happen to damage the cover, it's safer if the outlet cover is not on (say during painting or whatever). It helps prevent something from potentially shorting against the screws if something happens inside the box. Yes in theory if everything was done correctly inside the box, nothing should ever come loose, but this is the real world and things beyond our control can happen. If a wirenut has a molding defect, the plastic cap could separate from the spring inside for example (I've seen this).

I tape switches, outlets, and wirenuts. I don't go crazy, just a few turns "just in case" something happens.

Some electricians like to make themselves feel more important and say "they don't need electrical tape", and call wrapped switches and outlets "work done by hacks". Trust me, I've seen plenty of garbage work, done by "licensed electricians" who didn't use any electrical tape.

Tape is just the belt - and - braces approach to safety.

I like to use 3M Super 88 or 33+

What I was trying to say... only better!
Yes, use good tape and no sticky residue. I also leave a twisted tag at the end so removing it takes seconds.
Bright colors too. And that way you only need a paper towel to complete your first aid kit!

 

[dscheidt]

I just Googled it to check for a discussion. It seems this has been an ongoing argument for a long time. Many were taught that way in school. Many think it's a waste and potential problem. Some are required to do it on job sites and some aren't. Who knows maybe it was a regional thing. Maybe it's a leftover from when the boxes were all metal. It's obviously not going to get settled here. I checked with a friend of mine that works for the city and he says they do it. I know the township I worked for required it.

A guy i was working with a couple decades ago built himself a house. A strange house, made from straw bails, rammed earth, and other low emboddied energy materials. He'd run all the electrical himself in conduit, which wasn't a problem, he'd had a card from one the Chicago IBEW locals, and could bend emt in his sleep. The inspector came out, saw he'd taped his devices (like any Chicago electrician will), told he couldn'd do that, and failed him. He undid it, and called for reinspection. The inspector he'd been dealing with was on vacation, he got a supervisor. He walked in, saw the outlets sideways in their boxes, and asked "You from Chicago?" Paul said "IBEW local whatever". "Don't forget to tape the devices," said the inspector., end of inspection. they had a chat, the other inspector hated the house, hated he'd had to inspect it, hated it had gotten drawings approved.

 

[dwasifar]

I had no idea this practice was so contentious.

Thanks for all the advice. Bought some Super 33+ and ditched the junk.

 

[southalabama]

This eliminates the sticky aspect of tape

ArmourBand

"The NEW ArmourBand™ Insulating Wrap insulates and protects devices while providing a quick, clean, reusable solution to the traditional tape application. It fits most receptacles while offering a repositionable wrap with a non-slip finish, allowing for an excellent grip that leaves no residue...

www.idealind.com

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

I agree with the Cobbler.
After 48 years in the residential trades, 6 of those as a leader on an electrical crew, I tape all receptacles. It shows you care about the next guy and the other trades.

Nothing is worse than troubleshooting electrical problems and finding tape wrapped devices. Taping devices makes for a sticky mess and a trip back to the truck for some adhesive remover.…….. The older the "tape job" the bigger the mess.
Whenever I tape "bugs" I first wrap the bug with varnish cambric tape THEN use 33…….. "Because I care about the next guy."
Whenever I see tape used on wire nuts and devices I find other violations…….. My experience is over 50 years in the trade and as a electrical inspector.

Back to the OP's question: SCOTCH 33

 

[Retroman]

Their rules are clearly posted for all to see. (The officials that make up the Code Making Panels are unelected as well.)

I don't recall seeing anything in there rules about social distancing on job sites.

 

[Jim greengo]

After 45+ years straight as an electrician, 15 of those as a contractor, I never tape receptacles. The next guy ought to understand the dangers involved or he doesn't have any business being there in the first place.

Problem is that maintenance guys and home owners are not always the sharpest pencils in the box.

 

[Jim greengo]

3M Scotch 88 is better.

The only advantage of 88 is that it comes in differant colors.

 

[alfredeneuman]

The only advantage of 88 is that it comes in differant colors.

I've seen it in black only. Are you sure you aren't talking about Scotch 35?

 

[theoldwizard1]

The only advantage of 88 is that it comes in differant colors.

Scotch 33 is 7 mil thick. Scotch 88 is 8 mil thick.

 

[Jim greengo]

Scotch 33 is 7 mil thick. Scotch 88 is 8 mil thick.

Super 33 is more flexible,easier to use.

 

[Jim greengo]

I've seen it in black only. Are you sure you aren't talking about Scotch 35?

Yep,I was thinking of 35.

 

[Bert_]

The only time I consider it acceptable to tape a device is in an old work box with F straps. Otherwise it's just a waste of time and material and that's what I'll tell anyone trying to do it under my watch

 

[Zeke]

Wow, I never knew this subject was so polarized (hehe-he). I never made a practice of it but I never allow devices to be loose out of the box. Yes, if you wire some up and screw them in during a remodel for other's convenience, they will get trashed by the tapers and painters. You just take those to the next job if they are serviceable. Not a bad idea to tape a device that has no cover, but when installed permanently, no need for tape, IMHO.

I kinda like to peer into a box with a flashlight to look for any discoloration before automatically yanking it out. Tape covers part of what I want to see. If in doubt, kill the circuit and pull the device out and snug the connectors.

 

[ycgoat]

Since every other sparky has chimed in I will too. I have wrapped devices when I felt it was a good idea for what ever reason.

When I am going to leave a vinyl wrap on anything I start with the first wrap sticky side out, then twist the tape over so the adhesive does not get all over what ever it is I am taping, usually a splice or wire nut subject to vibration.

I do get aggravated when I come across taped outlets and switches, especially if trying to work it hot.

 

[gahrajmahal]

So, have you all been talking about that stretchy black tape used to wrap hammer handles, tennis rackets, bicycle handle bars and steering wheels?

 

[ycgoat]

So, have you all been talking about that stretchy black tape used to wrap hammer handles, tennis rackets, bicycle handle bars and steering wheels?

Its also my grandsons goto for repairing rocks and outdoor furniture

 

[Crazyjake8493]

Always Scotch Super 33 tape. The store brand and knockoff brand tapes belong in the trash.

As for taping receptacles, I do it at work with GFCI receptacles in metal boxes. Very tight fit, and the next guy changing them (quite likely me) will appreciate it.

 

[alfredeneuman]

As for taping receptacles, I do it at work with GFCI receptacles in metal boxes. Very tight fit, and the next guy changing them (quite likely me) will appreciate it.

That make no sense. Don't you turn the power off before pulling them out?

 

[pbon]

In an ideal world you do lots of things.

 

[RAYJAY]

3m 88.

Wrapping outlets is a great indicator an amateur was in the box. Gives you an advance heads up that you may be in for some shenanigans in there

its an old time thing to wrap the plugs and switches because of the metal boxes that were used way back then.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

That make no sense. Don't you turn the power off before pulling them out?

At most buildings, yes. At a jail, no.

 

[alfredeneuman]

At most buildings, yes. At a jail, no.

Why not?

 

[cannuck]

I really have to take issue with 'where it's rarely if ever used'. As a medium voltage splicer who has been relying upon 3M products for the last 38 years I can attest to how often these products are used, and used reliably. Scotch tapes are the standard for the entire industry.

Splice books specifically list these products as they have been reliably consistent for decades.

If 3M says their 33 tape is 600V rated and the dielectric capability is 1250V/per mil then it is. I have reliably half lapped exposed 600V conductors and passed megger tests in the past and will likely continue to do so in the future.

Now I cannot attest to anything over 48,000 volts, because that is the highest hand taped splice I have every made, so perhaps over those voltages you might have a point, but it certainly isn't mentioned in that megger pdf you so casually floated out there.

I am the mechanical guy who works with a bunch of medium to HV guys. Exactly as you state: 3M makes and is clearly recognized as the standards of the industry for splices, terminations, semicons, etc. Now, with modern heat shrink stuff the days of making manual HV terminations are mostly over (have watched our guys still do manual stuff on 230KV terminations just 3 years back....ULTRA critical stuff as a test failure can mean pulling out a quarter mile of megabuck conductor to investigate and repair) but I no longer do that (REALLY enjoyed it back in the day). The only time anyone I work with has anything BUT 88 as a general use tape is the chinese **** used to tie up extension cords, etc. for shipping.

 

[claymont]

Not a big fan of OSHA un-elected bureaucrats making it up as they go along.

So you'd prefer a wild and wooly West-type atmosphere where everybody just makes up their own rules; especially the owners of the company you're working at?

 

[dchawk81]

So you'd prefer a wild and wooly West-type atmosphere where everybody just makes up their own rules; especially the owners of the company you're working at?

Heck yeah cuz I own the company.