best ez out tool?

[GeorgeFromPa]

broken bolts in a truck radiator.. snapon and mack ezouts broke off and now i cant even drill again cause the exout is just as hard as the drill bits.. alum rad and steel bolts . heated every thing up and all that chit.. never have luck with ezouts.

 

[Scout Driver]

Is it possible to weld a fairly large nut to the top of the broken off bolt without damaging the radiator? Try tacking the nut on with some good, penetrating tack welds. Then slowly build up the weld within the nut. The heat should help loosen things and the nut will give you something fresh to crank on with a wrench or socket.

Scott

 

[CJM8515]

I wont use them till I drill damn near all the way thru the stuck bolt. Had too many snap on me

 

[theoldwizard1]

... alum rad and steel bolts ...

SOL !! I have learned my lesson. Buy some left hand drill bits. They will really help.

 

[Ign]

THIS is why I tell everyone to not use EZ-outs.

A left hand drill bit is the best bolt extractor ever.

Your options now? Wire EDM LOL

 

[Wamsutta]

Don't use the spiral type extractors; use the square type.

 

[matt01073]

bluepoint sells a set that I believe is repackaged made by ridgid ,they include the left handed drill bits , a set of spline extractors and matching nuts that slide over the spline so you can use a wrench on them . I live in the north east and we have lots of rust and broken hardware and I have used every type of extractor that I know of and tese are far and above better than anything else drill the bolt centered heat it up drive in the spline piece and workmit back and forth and it will come out. all te spiral type ezouts are good for is removing bolts that will turn easy , because the harder it turns the more the spirall bits in and the more it expands the bolt and wedges it in tighter totaly defeating its purpous

 

[kingpanda]

If you can get your hands on a carbide tip drill bit, it should drill the broken extractor easily so that you can remove it. I've had the matco ez out break on me before and that's what I used to get the extractor removed. In my experience, no other drill bit would drill through the broken ez out except for the carbide drill bit. I was able to pick one up from Grainger for $8

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[ocloc24]

Don't use the spiral type extractors; use the square type.

Yep, straight fluted extractors work so much better. I've also had alot of success with multispline extractors.

 

[Farmall450]

I like the Williams Tapered Square ones but you'd have to get it drilled first.

 

[Olafur]

1) welder
2) welder
3) welder
4) left hand drill bit
5) xzn bit

 

[notlob]

bluepoint sells a set that I believe is repackaged made by ridgid ,they include the left handed drill bits , a set of spline extractors and matching nuts that slide over the spline so you can use a wrench on them . I live in the north east and we have lots of rust and broken hardware and I have used every type of extractor that I know of and tese are far and above better than anything else drill the bolt centered heat it up drive in the spline piece and workmit back and forth and it will come out. all te spiral type ezouts are good for is removing bolts that will turn easy , because the harder it turns the more the spirall bits in and the more it expands the bolt and wedges it in tighter totaly defeating its purpous

Here's the Ridgid set, also sold as bluepoint. One reason I like them is because you can buy replacement parts from Ridgid.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WQYJIG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[PMD1966]

Left hand drill bits are always my first choice.

 

[dogdog]

take it to a machinist....?

Not sure if any other drill bits will drill through an extractor broken off inside that bolt..

you can try the others suggested with a washer and a nut welding to it. but being the area is thinner aluminum part, you might melt it if you are not careful.

There is this thing....

https://www.travers.com/broken-tap-...en tap extractor&lite=true&pricelistname=SITE


Maybe watch this guys series on broken screw extrator extractor stuff for some inspiration... usually a progressive drilling of left hand bits or right hand bits will loosen all the borken bolts for me including the lug nuts on the wheel... But since you have a broken extractor inside... good luck.

 

[stikman56]

If you can get your hands on a carbide tip drill bit, it should drill the broken extractor easily so that you can remove it. I've had the matco ez out break on me before and that's what I used to get the extractor removed. In my experience, no other drill bit would drill through the broken ez out except for the carbide drill bit. I was able to pick one up from Grainger for $8

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I second this.

 

[tym]

Just bought a set of Norseman left hand bits and extractors from Harry Epstein; about $35 and includes a nice steel case.

 

[ocloc24]

Yeah as far as getting a broken extractor out, EDM, maybe try a small punch and see if you can break the extractor (they're brittle), or even a dremel with several sharp small grinding bits/burrs

 

[Squ1d]

I broke off a Snap On thread chaser in the frame of my wife's car trying to clean it out prior to installing a hitch.

I used a grinder to flatten/smooth the surface

Used a center punch to mark center on broken thread chaser

Used a smaller cobalt drill bit to start hole then moved to larger size

It required a lot of pressure on the back of the drill but it worked.

 

[Loscaldazar]

Plasma/Oxy-Acetyl is one choice. Cobalt Drill bits (or even better, Molybdenum drill bits like the viking/norseman/drill hog drill bits) work okay, but that'll be slow. Carbide tooling would be great, but unless you can get the entire thing in a mill (is it stuck in the car or radiator?), that's hard to do.

Extractors are really not to be used with seized bolts. If you snapped the head off a bolt trying to loosen it, an extractor is highly unlikely to be able to remove the bolt. You already snapped a piece of steel that is the diameter of the bolt, and now you are trying to use a smaller diameter tool to remove that same stuck bolt. It just doesn't work.

Extractors are more useful when you round the bolt off because you were working at a poor angle or you overtightened the bolt and snapped the head off. The threaded portion in that case should have no tension on it, and will be drilled and removed easily with an extractor.

Best bet is to drill the bolt out completely with a left handed drill bit in general. If you're careful, you'll be able to pull the remnants of the bolt out with a pick. If you're not, you might have to retap it (not too bad). The next option is to heated/quenched the fastener to break the rust bonds between the fastener and whatever it is in, and use the LARGEST diameter extractor tool you can.

I used to use extractors a lot. Now I just drill bolts out completely and have had way less problems.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

As the above poster, I've given up on extractors. Now I go directly to heli-coil or equivalent. I bought a kit at Princess Auto [Canadian Harbour Freight] with 5 sizes for $125, they have both SAE and metric. That doesn't help the OP but it may help others.

 

[Ign]

take it to a machinist....?

Not sure if any other drill bits will drill through an extractor broken off inside that bolt..

you can try the others suggested with a washer and a nut welding to it. but being the area is thinner aluminum part, you might melt it if you are not careful.

There is this thing....

https://www.travers.com/broken-tap-...en tap extractor&lite=true&pricelistname=SITE


Maybe watch this guys series on broken screw extrator extractor stuff for some inspiration... usually a progressive drilling of left hand bits or right hand bits will loosen all the borken bolts for me including the lug nuts on the wheel... But since you have a broken extractor inside... good luck.

I have two of those Omega sets. They’re “ok” but the drills are fragile, even in a mill. It’s an expensive affair when one breaks just ‘cause the kit is $$ to begin with.

Those suggesting carbide drills (even standard spiral flute) .......not a great idea in a hand drill. And if you do this don’t bet your life on a single bit- order several. Carbide chips very easily regardless of grade (remember: hand drill) and unless you have a green wheel you won’t be sharpening it....and I’m not sure a green wheel would restore a satisfactory cutting edge on a drill bit that is to be used by hand (vs the mechanical advantage of a quill) so plan on having an $800 Baldor grinder w diamond wheels, too

Bottom line carbide bits aren’t great for Cooter’s Garage, mostly just ‘cause it can get expensive in a hurry. And wear eye protection- if anything was ever likely to shatter it’s carbide

 

[zktk01]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66/?tag=atomicindus08-20

This is the kit I am going to get

 

[Finky198]

That’s what you want ^^^ if you ever break on snap on sells single and has free shipping.

I think I have the rigid set to but it missing pieces. Used it once or twice it’s a shop tool.

I posted this in 2014 in another thread I’ve edited it.

Buy the Irwin 25 piece multi spline extractor set and a 29pc left handed drill bits and you will have a larger range of sizes. then any multi piece set. Then get your self a drill doctor or get good at sharpening bits on a grinder. Add a set of tapered square Irwin extractors. ( I had some success with the spiral flutes so I keep a full set in the shop ) a few different penetrating lubes (pb, 50/50 acetone and atf and or kroil ) and a small torch.

And then you a have a decent extractor set.

As people have stated before if you can weld a nut that's your best option
it's not always possible, but when it is it works perfectly

The other key when using them is use the biggest drill bit or
extractor you can for the application. Their just less likely to break...

I wont use them till I drill damn near all the way thru the stuck bolt. Had too many snap on me

A good hammer or air hammer can do wonders with vibration. And the latter can be used with what’s know as a screw knocker.. not just for screws either some have a 3/8” square drive perfect for sockets. Different from an impact gun it won’t Shear them off but it will hopefully break the bond. Although not always possible. but hey any attempt to prevent needing an extractor is worth it...


Best of luck with your fix. Pics would be cool of course...

 

[T_R]

The best ez out tool is a mig welder. If you can't weld a nut to it and get it out, it's not coming out. I work on cars driven in the winter in Maine everyday. I know all about getting broken bolts out.

 

[dogdog]

Not sure why everyone kept saying those left-hand drills, nose man bits etc.... for the OP's situation..... He got an extractor broken inside that broken bolt... not just a plain broken bolt.

 

[markw365]

1) welder
2) welder
3) welder
4) left hand drill bit
5) xzn bit

This ^^^ rosette weld a nut on the broken fastener. The heat will break it loose.

 

[LXCam]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66/?tag=atomicindus08-20

This is the kit I am going to get

I've had that same kit in matco red for the last dozen years. It's the best kit out there next to a left handed drill bit set. In all the years I've only busted one and that was completely my fault getting to heavy handed with it. I think I paid just over a hundy for it, that's a damn good price.

 

[Dingleburry]

Usa a caebide bur with the round tip. Drill through the ez out

This style

 

[Olafur]

Messing around with broken bolts without a welder is like dating a nun.
-plenty of work and no pleasure.

For the ultimate stubborn and stuck bolts, (decades old diesel turbos flange bolts) a Tig welder with high cr-mo filler rod is my preferred tool these days. 309/316 Stainless for example. Mig or Stick both work fine too.

To the OP - find a guy with a welder and experience and he will have fun removing the EZ outs, and the bolts for you for few bucks. Or a sixpack.

 

[mbshop]

I used the straight fluted ones for 30? Years. They will break but only because you are asking for it. As to a broken extractor, the suggestion of using a burr is the best. Course a torch to heat the broken bolt is the first thing you should do. Should be done before the bolt breaks. As a shop I just took everything to a welder fabricator. Cheap enough and I could be doing other things

 

[steveo3002]

best luck ive has is welding a washer /nut onto the stump , worth getting a cheapo used mig just for that

 

[leg17]

Usa a caebide bur with the round tip. Drill through the ez out

This style

After all that has already been tried, THIS ^^^^^^^^

 

[cherrybomb]

I use to kick myself when I broke a bolt.Then I decided to arm my arsenal.If it is going to be a future project,Kroil it,heat it,hammer on it,do a little prep.A guy ,especiall us rust belt wrenchers should just plan on having some good tools for these tough sitiuations. That rigid kit would be good,don't wait and have to run to the neighborhood store.A carbide or cobalt bit is about all that will work on a broken easy out.You have to think some what like a machinist,as it can develop into a challenge.I bought from Grainger,left hand center drills in two sizes, they accurately start the drill.An accurate center lets you use the largest possible tooling.Left hand center driis are amazing.I make sure to keep these tools separate,check drill rotation,leftys aren't cheap.I also inspect and replace sockets if they show or feel wear.Sometimes the bolt,same deal.Wire brush,use never seize,rust belt wrenching and repair tests your skills and experience,money sitiuation.

 

[Finky198]

I completely forgot about the carbide burs I use them so much and it didn’t even cross my mind...


I’m with cherrybomb on this one being in the rust belt prevention is the key.

The 7ps. Proper Planning and Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance.

The knowledge/reasoning to stop and think is the key before applying muscle. If it takes a little longer but comes out whole. It’ll still take a lot less time then it takes to break and repair it.


I know AVE did some video about melting taps with acid or somthing like that might be worth a search. Found it

In the last ten secs. Alum and water takes a while I have not tried this though.

 

[Loscaldazar]

Not sure why everyone kept saying those left-hand drills, nose man bits etc.... for the OP's situation..... He got an extractor broken inside that broken bolt... not just a plain broken bolt.

You can drill tool steel, and the Norseman bits will do it (at least the moly ones). They won't do it for long, but it is possible (depending on skill, you may have to sharpen it/use a few bits). It's one of the most frustrating and annoying things I've ever done, but you can accomplish it.

I don't think anyone is saying it is going to be easy. Once you've got an extractor snapped off in there, either putting it in a mill and using carbide tooling or cutting it out with plasma/oxyacet is the best bet.

If you can weld something to it, that also is a great option as others have said. The extreme heat from welding helps break the rust binding the bolt, and now you have a better nut/bolt to use a regular tool on.

 

[zktk01]

This video is pretty informative to at least show you what's available. (Spoiler) He recommend straight flute.

 

[Sine Swept]

How about a picture of what this mess looks like now?

If it is thin aluminum, could you heat it with a heat gun?

Breaking carbide bits in your threaded hole is probably worst case scenario though

 

[MoonRise]

Best?

Welder.

Next best, oxy-fuel cutting torch. To either first heat the snot out of the stuck fastener, or finally just to 'burn' it out. Not really recommended for blind holes or for fasteners stuck in aluminum, unless you are really-really good with a cutting torch.

For the broken ez-out, try to break it some more with a hammer and punch (or an air hammer ). Or the carbide die grinder bits.

I recently had a successful use of an ez-out. But that was removing the broken zinc threaded ferrule of a broom handle from a still serviceable broom head. No way to get vise-grips on it, but the ez-out worked great.

 

[2oolhound]

Here is an excellent thread on extractors:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62687&highlight=rennsteig+screw+extractor